Latest activity

WiscoHunter1995 · 2025-05-03T12:00:41-0400

PoolStored said:
Depends on the type of cups you are contemplating.
Post pictures of the cups and potential channel brackets.
No idea what you are dealing with...

These are the cups that the pool company left me.

WiscoHunter1995 · 2025-05-03T12:00:38-0400

WiscoHunter1995 · 2025-05-03T12:00:35-0400

A1Somebody · 2025-05-03T11:53:22-0400

I was told years ago to lower alkalinity to turn off pump. pour a quart of muriatic acid in deep in of pool let it set. The theory was it burned a hole in the alkalinity. My TA is 160. My pH is 8.0. 15500 gal, Salt pool.cell 940 (C-15)

LordNorth · 2025-05-03T11:51:25-0400

PoolStored said:
I can't see the entire pool in those pictures, do you have a ladder? Light?

Here's the entire pool. Sorry it was taken through a screen.

I don't have ladder installed, but i do have lights. I cleaned them out when i started but apparently they gunked up again. I just have them another clean out and did get a load of algae out of them.

I added some DE the filter, hopefully the lights were the big problem. Not sure why I am getting zero FC drop and zero CC though if it is still an algae problem. Thoughts?

Thanks for the help. I'm thinking at this point I'm going to let the FC levels come back to normal, double check all of my values and start from scratch unless cleaning out the lights makes a serious/ quick difference.

Chris

LordNorth · 2025-05-03T11:51:16-0400

oguzal · 2025-05-03T11:47:08-0400

Attached is a more wider photo

oguzal · 2025-05-03T11:46:56-0400

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:46:01-0400

Here they are

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:45:57-0400

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:45:57-0400

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:45:57-0400

oguzal · 2025-05-03T11:45:25-0400

ajw22 said:
You mean this Jandy valve?

It has nothing to do with your heater.

The valve selects between two return lines.

As set most water is going down pipe A and maybe 20% is going down pipe B.

I would clean away all the dried leaves from around the heater and pipes and pool equipment.

View attachment 641867

And does each return line correspond to one jet, currently both jets are working, whats b and a in the photo you draw

Jsf721 · 2025-05-03T11:44:40-0400

Newdude said:
Are you familiar with letting poolmath do the calcs for you ? (Upper left menu : effects of adding, swg ).

You can chose FC created, pump hours or %, once you select your model and your volume. If you enter 2 it will give you the 3rd, for example 10 hours at 25% will make X.X FC. Then you can mess with them all to find however you want to set it for next week. Maybe you want it to make 1.5 FC a day. Maybe you want it to do so in a 10 hour window. Poolmath is the bees knees here.

I am not but I will check it out.

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:42:13-0400

I don’t know why the photos keep saying too large for the site to upload.

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:36:47-0400

We also have a Hayward heater.

All saltwater systems. Do these help?

Thanks

Alexr54 · 2025-05-03T11:27:45-0400

I'm an automation nut. Everything from my aquarium to my pool.
Even setup an automated alert that announces when my clothes dryer cycle has finished.

Home Assistant is a cool thing.
I use MQTT/Mosquito for all of my home security devices (Ring) and smart locks.

tomas21 · 2025-05-03T11:26:51-0400

100% The aftermarket screen cap has held up solid with no issues, tears, etc... I am also being way more mindful of pressure increase and doing filter changes sooner which is probably also helping

JamesW · 2025-05-03T11:25:41-0400

JamesW said:
Can you show the system?

jfmorris · 2025-05-03T11:25:19-0400

Argh. I got some plumbing worked out, relocated the drain line to NOT be dead center under where I want the heater, poured gravel around that line to fill the trench, then setup a form, all yesterday morning and on my lunch hour.

At 2pm or so, the heavens opened up, and even though I tried to cover all the "diggings" with tarps, it was no use. Rain, wind and hail blew the tarps up, and filled every hole to the top with water. It was a flood a couple of inches deep at that end of the house in fact. No mixing of concrete for the pad will occur for days, more rain today, and then a gap until Thursday.

My plan is to put a couple of box fans blowing across the form to help dry the ground faster for a few days, and hope I can mix concrete Wednesday, and then cover with plastic once it sets.

aday31 · 2025-05-03T11:24:20-0400

JamesW said:
Probably metals like iron.

It also looks like maybe copper and silver stains.

Can you show the system?

Do you have a mineral system?

Can you pull the cartridge and show it before and after cleaning?

Hi-

Thank you for your quick reply.

We have a DE System.

We have two bowl fountains that have a cooper lining in the spout where the water falls over into the pool.

Any thoughts on what to do?

Thank you.

StLDave · 2025-05-03T11:23:13-0400

I have an Intelecenter that was working just fine with the Intelecenter 2 app. Pentair indicated this was being replaced with the Pool App. I expected a seamless transition to the new app. Instead I get these two screens. going to the Connect via Local Network, gets me to the second screen. Why I would need to connect my mobile device to my WiFi makes no sense, but I have tried. I looked up my IP on the Intelecenter and put it in. No passcode should be required. I get an error code. I put in the IP on my phone for my home network, still no go.

Any thoughts for this simple change? I am missing something and it is driving me nuts!

tcat · 2025-05-03T11:20:24-0400

Got my replacement yesterday, it's a Seagull Pro! 4 visible differences, light blue charger plug, small wheel on bottom (probably to prevent getting stuck on drain), smaller charger, no "A" on wheel hubs. Did one run, went as expected. Happy I got the Seagull over the Scuba! Adding a flap of 50 micron aquarium filter inside helps catch the fine stuff.

tcat · 2025-05-03T11:19:52-0400

ol_whistle_britches · 2025-05-03T11:16:22-0400

That’s a nice dashboard setup.

Alexr54 said:
Otherwise it would need to be on a standalone smart controller that can be integrated in HA.

Like I said, I haven’t gotten there yet, but my plan was to write whatever specialty logic I require in something like NodeRED and then use MQTT to signal a cheap microcontroller (or simple PLC) that runs relay control.

If you like the calimar, sit down and figure out how many speeds you need to run your pump at, and then compare that to how many relays are free on your prologic. You may not need to go the extra hardware route. I run three speeds, but I could live with 2 without heartburn.

Tubbs · 2025-05-03T11:13:16-0400

You would need to set them before the deck is poured, wet set them as the deck is being poured or core drill the holes after the deck is poured. The first two options leave room for error. Being in the concrete cutting business I have core drilled lots of holes for ladders, you could expect to pay $300 to $450 for the two holes. If you go option 3 look for a small company and ask for a cash discount. You could do it yourself with rental equipment if your fairly handy.

Alexr54 · 2025-05-03T10:59:56-0400

Nothing super special but here is my home assistant dashboard for the pool. Its fully controllable and easy to automate whatever through HomeAssistant, and therefore Alexa.
But even with this, it relies on what's controllable from Prologic.
Otherwise it would need to be on a standalone smart controller that can be integrated in HA.

My main reasons for this are the option to have voice controls, audible alerts when salt is low, and more complex automation that Prologic can’t do.
Like controlling valves it normally can’t, more complex timers, easy out of home remote controls.
I use HA for everyone else in the house to have one point of control for any smart device without the need of 20 different remote controls. Otherwise no one but me would be able to control anything.

Alexr54 · 2025-05-03T10:59:47-0400

Alexr54 · 2025-05-03T10:59:47-0400

Alexr54 · 2025-05-03T10:59:47-0400

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Intellicenter app problem

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