Connecting a Pentair Superflow VST pump to my Easytouch

Tim,

Whatever works for you works for me.. :mrgreen:

People are different, pools are different, pumps are different, cleaners are different, etc... you just need to set up a schedule that works best for you.

I am not sure that I would run 24/7, if I could not make chlorine 24/7.. It is one of the pros..

Another pro for me is that I never have to worry about freeze control, because the pump is always running.. I doubt that is an issue for you.. :)

The main reason the I even brought it up, is because running a single speed pump 24/7 would be insane... So, when you move over to a VS pump, it is not something that most people even think about..

Glad you were able to get your EasyTouch up and running with your SuperFlo... :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.

RJ60 plus up and running

Who’s more accurate.
You have less variance than the cell, but you may be off and the cell may be right if they are close. If they are far apart, trust yours.
Does it make more chlorine or stronger chlorine with a higher salinity?
No. I like to run the lower 3000s because we start tasting the salt more at 3k. So I'll start at 3400 or so and let the rain dilute it down to 3000 before adding more.

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SLAM Complete: Still Milky

hopefully it was the lights that just needed another clean out.
That and and a tall glass of patience. The testing says you have killed the algae. (Or the bulk of it at least).

Now its mostly a mechanical battle. Waiting for the filter to do its thing tests everyone's patience. Sand filters are a special kind of punishment. Lol.

Keep the FC up but its mostly precautionary to guarantee you retain the upper hand in the battle. Brush and vac daily. Wait it out.

Sea water pool with SWG

The only seawater pools I have heard of are continuous recycling from the ocean.

Yup. Cruise Ships do that. They pull in seawater, filter it and remove suspended solids, lightly chlorinate it and then send it out to distribution to the pools. The water typically over flows and is recycled for a time then put through a waste treatment process and discharged back into the ocean. Very complicated systems but they are very effective at reducing disease transmission.

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Here are my results from today (knowing all the stabilizer didn’t dissolve yet). And I thought pH was around 7.6 from above photo, but if you think it is different please let me know.

But I actually saw a result from the cya test! I am at 40. So probably 50 by tomorrow.

My thoughts on next step is add more muriatic acid tonight to get it down to 7.2pH. Thoughts? Anything else?

We might be going in today for the first time as it is in the 80s in CT today and the water is at 69. Haven’t turned the heat pump on yet. We get pretty good sun.

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Ideal chems targets to limit pH drift?

However, at these levels, my CSI is -0.37.
There is nothing wrong with a CSI of -0.37.

For PH, TA, CH, I focus on CSI and I regularly keep it within -0.6 and -0.3. My pool's plaster is going on 20 years old and still in fairly good condition without much etching at all. Etching really doesn't accelerate until well below -0.6.


If I drive pH up to 8.0, I get CSI to my target at -0.14 but I feel like I'm right on the edge with pH, as my understanding is I never want it to exceed 8.0.
Only because it is really hard to measure a PH above 8.0 and because it can be an irritant to the eyes.

I could push it to 7.8, but that leaves CSI at -0.24, resulting in both pH and CSI a bit closer to the edge of my acceptable ranges for both.
You are being too restrictive about the levels. Again, there is nothing wrong with those ranges.

Am I missing something?
Don't confuse recommended ranges with absolute limits. There is a lot of margin built into the recommended ranges and operating outside of the recommended ranges is not uncommon and sometimes necessary depending on unique conditions.

There is some ambiguity on TFP re: acceptable CH levels (the ABCs of Pool Chem calls for 250-650 but the sticky TFPC for Beginners calls for 200-400), but even if I pushed CH up to 650, I still end up with CSI of -0.21.
Increasing CH would be the last thing that I would do as it is difficult to reverse. Focus on TA & PH.

However, I have operated my pool at CH levels close to 1000 ppm in the past because of very high CH fill water and drought restrictions.

Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

This is a real good set of Articles that will help you understand pool chemistry. Take a close look at the ABCs of pool chemistry and recommended levels.

Being in the construction phase, you have the unique opportunity to learn all the stuff before your pool is actually built and you make the same mistakes many of us did.

Balancing water with solar cover

Hi all, I use a solar cover/blanket during spring and fall which I started using 1 or 2 years ago. For the first handful of years with our pool (without the blanket), keeping the water in balance was super easy for me. I'm not sure the science behind it, but I notice that when I put the cover on, I have been struggling to keep the water in balance. The issue seems to be with keeping the chlorine level up. This surprises me as I expected with no sun light on the water that the opposite might happen with the chlorine.

With the cover on, i know i need to test the water more often as a start, but can anyone give me some insight into what having the cover on does to the water balance as that will help me understand what is likely going on.

Thanks!

Discolored drains and return spouts

Where is the salt cell?

Can you remove the cell and show looking into the cell from both ends and looking into the pipe where the cell commencts?

Can you pull the grids and show them before and after cleaning?

Can you post all chemistry readings and all chemicals that have been added?
I don’t know how to do that.

Attached is snap shot of the chemistry numbers.

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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

Your RO system will be overkill.
Does it merely mean I have to control the levels with Muriatic acid routinely (which sounds ok)? Is this manageable?
Yes, for the most part. When TA levels are high, pH rises much more quickly. This requires frequent dosing of muriatic acid to keep pH in range. Each time you add MA to drop pH, you lower your TA level as well. With top-offs, your high TA fill water will increase TA levels. This is the "battle" I'm referring to.

There is a way to lower ta by aggressively aerating and adding MA. This will be challenging with a TA level of 250. Check out the article below.

Also, let's confirm that your TA is actually that high. Use a 25 ml sample and count each drop as 10 ppm. Continue to drop until the sample no longer changes color and don't count the last drop.

Brown hard flakes from return jets

Hello guys .sorry for my bad English. I have a problem I have never met before .despite working some years in pools .went to a clients pool that was working with chlorine salt generator for some time until last year. It broke and waits replace. This area has a hard water with ph goes high if you doin maintenance and since i was sure he never test ph and he propably didnt kbow swg affect ph . I asked him and i was right . The pool is with overflow tank . And has a sand filter with very old sand i told him to replace. he told me that every year he emptys the pool for the winter and when he first adds water he add only a little for the pump can suck for the bottom and push in the return jets for some time so they get clear . That was nice from him i did thw same . Return jets seem very clear. And then he fill the pool and i go there to start maintenance . I test ph about 8.0 ( always testing only with weekly calibrated electode ) and u add ph minus .goin 2 days later and ph is at 7.2 , i assume for sometime i went little lower . And i saw some small brown hard flakes comin our of some return jets . I vaccumed went the next day same thing was haplening was there vaccuming for 1 hour . Changed the valve to recirculate to be sure it isnt inside inside filter and it wasnt . I managed in a small depth side of the pool to anscrew completelt one return jet and boom huge and small piexes where xoming out as crazy .i was 3 hours rhere already closed the return jet and left . He told me it still comes out little pieces of jets . What is goin on guys .? He told me thay its the first time he see this in his pool . I asuume that it happend it was the first time someone brought ph pools down ..so it started brake all that thing . I believe pipes is full of calcium . But why ? I have visited pools in same areas that had never foxed ph and i have bever seen such a thing . Can it be from swg ? Usually from swg is white flakes not brown . I can describe it as brown egg shell pieces . What can i do to solve this and stop popin out of the pool? Bring ph lower and leave it there ? I cant imagine poppin out all the summer vacuming and then same again .ill try to upload photos .thank you 1000017832.jpg

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Superflo 1.5 HP VST to Hayward Aqua Plus Issues

I replaced a 1 hp single speed Superflow with a new Superflo VST. I am having trouble figuring how to get the pump and my Haward Aqua Plus
to communicate with each other. At present I have changed my pump program in the Aqua Pluws and it now powers the pump 24 hrs a day. This has confused the salt cell so my chlorine is out of wack. My big concern is this winter. The way it's set up now I won't have any freeze protection.

I know I will need the Pentair Communication cable but I'm not sure what else. Right now Aux 1 is wired for the patio lights and we use this button almost every day. Aux 2 is the power feed for the pool heater.

The easiest solution is to go get a new single speed pump, but I like the variable speed option if possible.

Anybody tackle this problem sucessfully?

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