You get your plugs?

What did you get and did it work ok for you?

Welcome to TFP.

I suspect you have a propane gas pressure problem. 4” WC is the minimum gas pressure and if it drops to that when running and flames out then you have a gas service problem.

You say your propane tank is 40% but some folks have discovered their gas gauge was broken.

Fill your propane tank and see if you get increased gas pressure.

Water is progressing. Like @Newdude said, big changes can't be seen anymore but it does appear to slowly be getting clearer. I'm only on full day 4 of my SLAM, so I'm sure there is more to be done. One side question I have about my pump setup is this: I have to run my Superflo pump at 2200 rpm minimum for my flow light to go green on my IC40 SWG. That seems really high. Also, after a while during the day even that won't be good enough and the light will go red. Granted, I'm not using it yet, but when I switch over to it I really don't want to have to micromanage the flow, and the point of getting the VS pump was to run it at a much lower rpm to save money. I'll backwash and rinse, and then the 2200 rpms are good enough for a while, but always goes red fairly quickly. Also throughout the day my flow at the returns noticeably slows down. Could this just be left over algae in the water clogging the filter, and constant backwashing is normal during a SLAM? The sand filter is old and the only thing I haven't replaced so far and I do notice some sand in the pool. Not a lot, but some. I'm trying not to worry about a million things at once, but I don't want to finish my SLAM and then not have a working SWG, or needing to run my pump at higher speeds. I can take pictures of the piping if needed (it honestly looks like a mess to me). I also have 2 skimmers, one about 8 feet away from the pump, and the other is at the other end of the pool 40ish feet away, not sure if that factors into anything.

Quick question I just thought of, if I set my filter valve to recirculate and dial in my rpms for the SWG there, how much higher does it tend to be after going through a sand filter? I assume it would require more (obviously) but would there be a decent test to determine if my filter is just reducing my flow too much? Sight glass is clear, even when I backwash. I do see sand coming out through the sight glass when I backwash/rinse as well. I know this is a long rambling post with a lot of questions, so I appreciate any help while I'm finishing the SLAM.

Read Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

When I had that problem I setup a wireless motion sensitive camera over the area that recorded the critter at night to identify it.

Once identified I call mt local pest control guy who set some baited cages in the area. Within a few days the camera recorded the critter in the cage. The pest control guy came, threw a blanket over the cage, and took it away to be relocated.

You can fill the hole with mothballs, gravel, and steel wool to try and encourage the critter to move on. If you use mothballs you better like the smell when being around that area of the pool. They often have other exit holes and filling in one only works if you caught it early.

Boston_Pool said:

I'm looking for great ROI on a heat pump. It seemed like Aquacal was ahead of the game but others have caught up. Thoughts?

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Heat pumps are a commodity. Get one that has local service and support. Many companies who sell them do not service abd repair them.

Boston_Pool said:

I completely understand the Heat Pump limitations -- not looking for folks saying they don't work. I have the electricity to support a heat pump and want the pool "swim ready" more often. Thanks.

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Heat pumps work fine if you run them as designed.

Good morning - just did the am test and it’s at 6.5. It dropped exactly 1.
SLAM time?

Looks like a classic ground hog hole to me. Also called whistle pig.

MP,

Welcome to TFP. Sorry you have to find us with this problem. We've seen this a LOT and it can be frustrating. Seems to happen with all brands at some point and it can be very frustrating to nail down. Random replacement of parts is expensive and mostly just wastes money with no benefit. You seem comfortable with basic diagnostics are you comfortable opening it up to find the Fenwal ignition control module? Find it and let us know how many times it blinks. There are a couple things this can point us to.

Thanks.

Chris

You got most of it out.
Fill it, and kill it.
Fill and follow the SLAM process.

Check your 3rd brush under the unit. They tend to lose a lot of their teeth. Might be good to replace.

Dirk said:

As @Newdude points out, this is not explained well enough in the manual. But I take it to mean you've used at least 80% of the cell's life. Or somewhere between 80-99%. As I mentioned, I would start thinking about a replacement, and keep whatever is left in the old one as a backup. You'd use the new one while it is under warranty.

More importantly, I can't imagine the price of this thing going down any time soon (read: not ever), and might be one of the many products that are going to have a huge price increase in the next few months (just my opinion). They might also be subject to supply-chain issues, which might mean not being able to get one right away after your current one poops out. For all those reasons, if it were me, I'd buy one right now.

Or think of it this way. An SWG has all the chlorine it can produce "stored" inside. But unlike liquid chlorine, it doesn't degrade in a few months. You'd be buying your future chlorine at today's prices. Sure, it's speculation, but, IMO, I think it's a sound investment, one that potentially could have a really great ROI.

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We actually have one because we thought it quit. Now my husband wants to try to return it even though I told him the advice from here to keep it. I'll bring up that the price is only going to go up. Saving money is a huge incentive .

EndlessSummerAZ said:

Any concerns about pools popping out here?

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No much of a concern, but don’t leave a pool empty baking in the denser sun.

AUSpool said:

I’ve not heard of interference from CyA before. Interesting . CyA interference for ORP is well known but I’m not sure that mechanism applies to photometer. Photometers add an extra assessment step, two if you count the algorithms. As the DPD reagents ages it gives a false positive but old reagents is a problem for all kits. The sample volume to tablet is quite small and the tablets don’t always completely dissolve before assessment. I sound very negative but I do own a PoolLab and have played with it a bit. I got erratic results from CyA testing but know someone else with one that was seeing consistent results when comparing the PL to the disappearing dot on the same samples.

But it’s easy for me, I was just tinkering and stayed with my K2006 kit. But in the UK I believe drop test kits are hard to find. If hottubtim is careful with it he could probably expect to be within the +/-10% mark. But there is always an element of doubt.

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This isn’t definitive, but I’ ve been able to get consistent CYA readings with the pool lab 2.0 using a pill crusher, then dropping the powder onto a folded piece of glossy photo print part and sliding it into the center compartment. CYA has been in the range of 15-60 and rational - meaning I lose about 1 ppm per day and hit a high of 60 when I was going to be gone for two weeks and didn’t want a friend to manage that as well as the FC.

PoolStored said:

Do you have your kit?
If so, best thing would be to fill it up and start the SLAM process. Link-->SLAM Process

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I do have my kit just wondering if it would be better to get all the junk out while the level is so low?

A few more follow-up pictures.





Below are two 60mm 12v fans that I had sitting around. I have since installed a 60mm single server fan.

AVC 60mm PWM Double Ball High Speed Fan 2B06038B12G - 12V 60X38mm Computer Server Power ($14 on Amazon)


My Robo Cleaner is happy to have the Riptide taking up the heavy cleaning.

ajw22 said:

Aquacal is good. So is Built Right or Gulfstream.

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I'm looking for great ROI on a heat pump. It seemed like Aquacal was ahead of the game but others have caught up. Thoughts?

I completely understand the Heat Pump limitations -- not looking for folks saying they don't work. I have the electricity to support a heat pump and want the pool "swim ready" more often. Thanks.

Great. Glad it went well for you. Mine took a day or so for the control unit to start syncing with the cloud for the app to work remotely. After that it’s been smooth sailing. I actually use the WiFi more than I thought I would.

And yes, they're supposed to be "right-side-up," where the text is reading left to right. But you can't just rotate it in place, you'd have to reconfigure the plumbing to honor the flow arrow. If you post a pic with more of your pad showing, we might be able to suggest an easy fix, maybe even a DIY one.