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Michael z said:

Hello everyone, I am a professional in the swimming pool robot industry.

I have purchased robots from various brands for research, including Aiper S1 Pro, Wybot s2, Beatbot Aquasense PRO, as well as some smaller brands like Lydsto, Smorobot, Poolpure Aquaguard, etc.

In my daily work, I spend a significant amount of time comparing the data parameters of different robots and dismantling models from brands like Beatbot, Wybot, Aiper, and others. I also test robots from different brands in various pool environments, including green pools, to observe how they perform in real-world conditions.

Additionally, I’ve compiled some knowledge and insights about using swimming pool robots, which I’d like to share today.

If you are considering purchasing a swimming pool robot, feel free to tell me about your pool’s characteristics, such as:

• Outdoor or indoor pool
• Does the pool have stairs or steps?
• Is there a lot of fine sand,dirt to clean or big leaves to clean?

Based on your specific situation, I can offer recommendations to help you choose the most suitable pool robot.

Looking forward to discussing and sharing experiences with everyone!

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Hi

Thank you,
What is your experience with the smorobot? Just saw it in a store and was wondering about it.

Hey folks, happy Memorial Day weekend.
Finally finished the retaining wall (glued after building and taking down three times before getting it right) and almost finished cutting and taping the foam. I have a good foot and a half space towards the back of the wall and where the pool will be. The sides, where the wall is very low, only has about 2-3 inches from each side of where the pool with be (18’) I’m now worried there might not be enough room on the sides. .
Any thoughts are appreciated. I used landscaping adhesive on the bricks…

sande005 said:

If you use the PoolMath app on your phone, it will tell you how much is needed from your current level to get to your the SLAM level.
You should test and add more to get back to the level very frequently - every two hours to start. If you can't, life happens - but the process will take longer. As it progresses, you'll find it holding on its own more and more, so you can ease off on the time between tests. See the article about the 3 criteria you need to pass to consider the process done. It may take a few days (uninhabitable swamps taking weeks!) - yours sounds to be on the pretty short side. It will be safe to swim at the high CL SLAM level - nobody will notice anything different.

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ok I'm finally starting to understand @Newdude and @mknauss . I've read the slam process like 10 times lol
Im feeling really empowered now! after 7 years of winging it with my pool I now understand how fast my pool consumes chlorine . This is big for me!
and im getting it done in 5 min now.

using the dpd test,
last night FC was 3
cya was 40
cc is .5
so my slam level needs to be 16.
i added 2 gal last night

this morning at 8 am FC was 13. added 2 more gal
11 am FC was 14.5. added 2 more gal
5pm FC was 17. added nothing
930 pm tonight FC is 14.5 again.

i just powerwashed my 4 cartridge filters tonight. They were nasty and smelled like farts! ( one of the bands broke on one of them. is that a big deal or no worries?)

so now that ive cleaned those that should help a lot.
So Even though its not 16, i think i'll do the overnight test tonight. and so if its at least 13.5 then does that mean im done slamming? What do you think?

My last post was not meant for anyone in specific.
Just was saying in general. And not specifically here.

Everyone on this forum has been super helpful. And it does not need to be explained to me that these forums do not have paid tech support.

Thanks!!

That automated valve after the heater -- the one with the box on it that says "CVA-24" -- seems to be blocking the flow from the heater to the returns.

A photo of the valves taken from the other side -- standing between the heater and the valves -- would be very helpful to confirm my impression that the flow is blocked.

Do not run your pump with the flow blocked; it will overheat and may be permanently damaged.

My OmniPL has the control wire (RS-485 I'm assuming) from the OmniPL panel to the back of the VSP in the connector where the local control panel would normally connect. The local control panel on top of the motor is disconnected and the OmniPL connector is installed. The OmniPL operates the pump fine. I can control the speed of the motor from the OmniPL app when it's running. I cannot control the max RPM during priming, priming duration and max RPM when the heater is running. When I turn the heat on (from the OmniPL app) the VSP goes to full RPM and I cannot adjust it down. I realize you need minimum flow to keep the heater operating safely but at 90 GPM I have more than enough room to slow the motor down, reduce the noise and avoid cavitation. I can control the MAX RPM setting when I disconnect the OmniPL from the pump and reconnect the local panel and access the settings on the pump directly. I just cannot find where I can adjust those settings from OmniPL. If OmniPL doesn't have that functionality but perhaps OmniLogic does, I would consider changing the automation controller for those features.

My VSP is wired just like it says in page 21 of the OmniPL Installation Manual you provided.

ajw22 said:

What model heater are we discussing?

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

Show us pictures of your equipment pad and heater.

Do you want to get into opening up the heater and Aqualink panel to check the wiring or call the PB and have him checkout the heater and show you how to heat your spa.

Click to expand...

Ehh we have the jandy versatemp JRT series and I went into the heater itself to turn it on manually and it never started up so I’ll just go ahead and have the pb talk us through it at this point I think it’s getting a little too complicated for my liking haha.

I just prefer to touch a button and it turn on vs getting all technical with it! But thank you! Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything obvious.

Now we're getting into the thick of things. Today's plan was attacking the fiberglass walls and getting the blisters ground down and ready for repair. I spent a few hours grinding individual blisters and was not making good progress; getting through the gel coat was quite the ordeal. It was more like grinding plastic than fiberglass. The heat from grinding would melt it and then it would gum up my 24-grit disks. I also realized that the adhesion of the gel coat to the fiberglass wasn't really super strong after all these years and that I could peel the gel coat off in pretty large pieces using a stiff putty knife.

So, I decided to go another route and removed all the gel coat. This is a pretty common practice on boats with osmotic blistering, but they usually use a special tool made for grinding off gel coat. I decided to leave a 7" strip of gel coat along the top that is a little wider than the tile that will be going up later since there is pretty minimal blistering along the top and it will leave a nice smooth area for the tile to adhere to.

Tomorrow will be another itchy day of grinding out blisters.

Welcome to TFP.

Are the stains rough to the touch? Any difference in feel between the stained and non-stained areas?

Try…


Post a complete set of water chemistry in the format:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
WATER TEMPERATURE
CSI

I don't have any input as to how the work is being accomplished, but I really like the changes you're making.

What model heater are we discussing?

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

Show us pictures of your equipment pad and heater.

Do you want to get into opening up the heater and Aqualink panel to check the wiring or call the PB and have him checkout the heater and show you how to heat your spa.

sagosto said:

Yes the green box is the heater. It should be easy to at least look and see if something is broke or blockage Are the screws labeled? How do you know the order?

Lastly, does the off on the handle have to align with the in to prevent flow? For example, would the handle position at 9pm be the same as 3pm? And should it free spin? This one doesn’t go around and is different from the others which stands out to me

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No. Just pick a #1. It's not super critical. I was just trying to give you an idea of a pattern.

The shaft should have splines that allow the handle to fit only one way: with "OFF" lining up with the diverter gate. So no. 3 and 9 are not the same.

As long as the top plate and the handle look the same after you're done, the valve will work the same. The key thing to look at on the top plate is that small vertical tab that serves as a stop.

I think this is your manual. Or if your pipe is 1.5", then this. Not much difference except part numbers.

The sticker will probably fall off and change the weight.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

CH does not matter in a vinyl liner pool with no gas heater.

Read CYA Testing - Further Reading

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Good to know on the CH. I will skip that test for now then.

And that extra but about the CYA testing was helpful and answers my questions on that. I was also interpolating between lines which I should not do it seems. Though this does all mean that my CYA is likely high. I have drained the pool through vacuuming to waste a few times now, but it appears I may need to drain it a lot more to get the CYA down.

M,

We believe that you set your speed to accomplish a goal, not to match some magical number in a manual..

As as example... You need to run your pump at a speed that is slightly higher than what will turn on your SWCG in your pool... To determine this speed (or GPM) you just slowly adjust the speed down until your cell reports low flow.. then slowly adjust the speed up until the flow light just turns green.. Add 100 rpm and that will be the slowest speed you ever want to run..

There is no reason to run a specific speed just for the fun of it.. it needs to be a speed that will accomplish a goal.

Running your waterfall is a goal.. usually, for waterfalls to work, the pump needs to run faster, but it all depends on how your plumbing is set up.. Turn the waterfall on and see how it looks.. adjust the speed down until you don't like it, and then adjust the speed up to where you do like.. and that is your waterfall speed..

It is what it is.. Whatever speed makes things work, is the speed you will have to run to accomplish that goal.

The faster you have to run, the more it costs, and the less it makes sense to run 24/7..

See this chart that @PoolGate developed... You can see why I run at 1200, most of the time..



Thanks,

Jim R.

Yeah, I see it now. Thanks.

I would redo things with a sealant that chlorine will not breakdown.

I would use Plasto-Joint Stik. Take the Plasto-Joint Stik and drag it across the threads as you rotate. Then tighten hand tight, plus 1 1/2 turns maximum.

Jonisccp said:

Hi

Has anyone use a product call ezpatch to fix a plaster? I am thinking to use a small area on my sunshelf. I am hoping someone have use it and could let me know how it went. Ez patch 10

Click to expand...

It works fine as long as you don’t mind the color difference. You need to drain the water down to use it though.

Those moles (and voles) tear up my lawn. I have several traps, but I haven't got one yet. They are tough to eliminate...

Welcome to TFP.

CH does not matter in a vinyl liner pool with no gas heater.

Read CYA Testing - Further Reading

I decided to make the switch to Rectorseal T + 2 although I did see chlorine listed on their label as not suitable for use. It’s actually listed on all of their thread sealant products. Anyone else have problems with this? Should I head this warning? The rectorseal worked on 2 out of 3 of my return fittings so it looks like I get to cut out another one and try again. I’ll probably replace the return fitting and the threaded male coupler since I have extra.

The pvc plugs work great for testing the returns and skimmers but for the main drains, the style I have from Hayward has a threaded female connection on the side of the housing where I use a threaded male adapter to connect. My issue with this is as I’m pressure testing, I end up plugging the inside of the threaded male adapter and no water sees the threads of the main drain housing. How do I ensure this isn’t leaking before I cover everything in concrete/poolcrete?

Attached are some photos of the main drains, threaded male adapter and plug in using.