I have a 48sqft Hayward Micro Clear DE filter that was installed in 1998 by Leslie's Pool Supplies. Model number is DE-LE-42054. Last year the pressure gauge/relief valve broke off and when I tried to drill out the broken piece, I stripped the threads on top of my filter head. I need to replace the top filter head, but can not find the correct model to do so. The model number on the part I'm looking to replace is DE-4800-BT. Leslie's recommended I use DEX4820BTC. I ordered this part, but it is not tall enough... the manifold and air relief assembly prevent it from going low enough to seat on the bottom housing. The exact replacement part is obsolete on every site I've checked.

Seeing as my filter is 27 years old... Is my best move to install a new filter entirely? I'm not sure if there's a workaround I can use for the stripped threads on the pressure gauge/relief valve. Some photos are below. Thanks in advance for advice.

Hi: we’re having a heck of a time this year with green water. Opened the pool four weeks ago, and water clarity improved over two days. From there it’s been downhill - I think we didn’t follow some confusing instructions correctly, and I think two pool companies have us doing things that aren’t sequenced well. We started a SLAM yesterday, with alkalinity, pH etc in the proper range for SLAM - but after about 35 hours (added liquid shock 4x yesterday),we cannot get the FC much above 5 - but we’re also trying to gauge numbers on everything off of test strips. Ordered a Taylor kit - arriving tomorrow.
I’m thinking we start over when the test kit arrives. (I know strips are mostly unreliable - we were just trying to save some money which apparently was stupid). Mainly I can’t get a good cya reading, and pH is now completely unreadable on a test strip because of so much chlorine. So using Pool Math isn’t helpful when I don’t have great cya readings in particular to SLAM.

All that to say: should I continue adding chlorine today until test kit arrives tomorrow, so I don’t waste the work we’ve done? Or should I try to raise alkalinity with baking soda since it bottomed out, while we wait for the test kit?
I should say while we can’t see the bottom, there is no debris there. We have vacuumed to waste, run our robot (will do that again today) with little or no algae or debris evident. Scrub sides 1-2 times per day.

Also, it’s a bromine pool and bromine is registering very high. Should I turn its distribution off?

Help.

We had our pool professionally opened 10 days ago and the water is very cloudy (cannot see the bottom of the pool). We have been to the local pool store several times and they say the chemical levels and salt levels are perfect. We washed the filters, we even changed the salt water cell. We have shocked the pool and added clarifier but the pool water looks exactly the same as it did 10 days ago. Do we need to drain and re-fill the pool? Any other suggestions as to what the problem may be? We have had our pool for about 10 years and have never had this issue

Hello..........
I am in search of a gasket for an old 12V spa light, which has no identifying markings on the can. The lens is approximately 3 3/4" to 3 11/16" round. The lens has "Wade Design" printed on it.
I have already tried the Hayward SPX0590G, which was a perfect fit around the lens, but it was slightly too thick to secure the locking ring around it. I need a gasket that is slightly thinner. Possibly a cross section of 1/4" to 5/16" thick.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.......thank you all.