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I starting to understanding the Orenda system.

Mdragger88
This has always been the case for pool services- and pool stores no matter which brand they use/sell. While There are good products and not so good products from every manufacturer The TFP methods are generally impractical for those business models as they are geared towards pool owners . Also, many customers of these businesses are hoping/expecting a magic trick that makes the pool look better quickly no matter how this gets accomplished without realizing that the water looking decent doesn’t necessarily mean it’s sanitary & are unaware of many of the long term side effects and costs of some of the products. Along with the merry go round of - This product begats the need for this other product etc.
While visible algae is unsightly, it doesn’t harm you, the unsanitary conditions that led to the algae in the first place can so just treating the algae temporarily via algaecides or phosphate management is like only dealing with the symptoms and not curing the disease.
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Inconsistent prime, bubbles in return, and 0 filter pressure

S
shwilson said:
Water is almost to the top of skimmer. Yes it stays full of water. You can see some flow if there’s debris present but otherwise it doesn’t appear to have much suction. If you put your hand in you can feel it but again nothing crazy
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ajw22 said:
You don’t feel a lot at the skimmer.

Things point back to a pump impeller problem.
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I checked impeller again and didn’t find any debris and it appeared to rotate freely
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Florida Block-Pool Build

timjs
duraleigh said:
I used #4 throughout. In retrospect, it was complete overkill but it has held up quite well
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So, I just referred back to your build thread. Two things:
It looks like you only had the one bonding wire, coming out behind the steps, is that correct?

Also, I've been stressing a little about how my wall is going to be sitting on the edge of the footing, placing the load off-center. However, I just noticed you also built on the edge for a large portion of your pool as well which makes me feel better about it.
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I starting to understanding the Orenda system.

R
I think I now understand why Orenda recommended processes are used by many of the better pool service companies, while we all know that bleach can do so same job in a cheaper/simple way.

Pool services companies have a large travel time cost per visit, TFP members normally have zero travel time to visit their pools.
  • Saving a few visits on a pool opening is enough to justify use of Oranda product to do what a few days of testing and adding bleach 4 times a day does just as well.
  • Pool service companies can't depend on customer asking children to use the wc before the pool or asking gusts at a pool party to shower. Hence adding CV-600 so such biological loads have less effect on FC levels.
  • Pool service companies can't depend on customers checking FC after a pool party, hence keeping phosphates low so the damaged is limited.
  • Some pool service companies believe that they have a legal risk if FC is kept over 5.
  • Pool service companies can't depend on customers adding a little addational bleach before a pool party.
  • Many customers will tend to have pool parties on the same day.
  • Pool service companies can't control the size/type of filters their customers have.
  • Pool service companies can't depend on customers adding bleach if the power is cut to a pool.
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2 gal of chlorine a week?

D
sande005 said:
Chlorine has to be replaced almost every day. One can try to get by with dosing heavy one day, and coast through the next day, or even two. But that brings a risk of it dropping too low on the off day. Algae can then easily exploit that drop. Normal dosing then won't kill it all, as there is so much more, which also makes the CL level drop sooner - so it can explode on you. Algae is microscopic, so once there is enough to make the water less clear, or to see on the sides/bottom, the battle has been long lost. The goal is to keep the CL level up enough that the very small amount that drops into the pool from outside (wind, vegetation, ducks, mixed with dirt) does get taken care of, so it never gets a foothold.

So unless your pool guy can come several days a week - or depends on "bad" things like tablets.....

I test my CL a couple of times a week using the powder/drop test. pH once to twice a week. More frequently for those two when the pool is getting lots of use. TA every other week, unless the pH is showing larger swings over the period. The rest about once a month, or anytime there has been a big environment change (major rain storm, etc.)

The downsides to a Salt Water Generator:
1. Doesn't work in cold water (<50-60), so you have to use liquid during those times. But those times use a lot less CL anyway.
2. MUST be installed so that it never can run when there is no water flowing. That depends on your other equipment - it may be a simple plug and play, or need extra items (maybe control boards, or maybe timer boxes) - so there may be additional one-time install costs.
3. Can be prone to deposits building up, so one has to keep things in balance managing the CSI level of the pool. (nothing new to add or test, but it becomes a balancing act of what is in there to meet the goal, so you may run more tests, more often). The big one is managing CH levels.
4. I can slightly taste the salt in the water. No one else, so far, that has used the pool can.
5. It gets boring looking at a pool that is crystal clear all the time.
6. My wife has ideas about how to spend all the money saved.

If you want to pursue, please do the following, and we can help in great detail:
1. Let us know how DIY you are. Willing to do, or learn, pvc plumbing? How comfortable/knowledgeable are you with doing electrical work?
2. Fill out your signature here with the makes and models of all your equipment, and pool specs. More details of how and what here: How to add your signature
3. Post pics of your equipment pad from various views so we can see all the equipment and where the pipes run. Equipment control boxes and electrical panels also.
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thank you. im decent at diy. as long as i have good instruction. i will post pics later on this thank you again.

do i need to clean my cartridge filter before i start my slam?
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Upgrade Options?

Alexr54
ol_whistle_britches said:
Let me know how you like it. What made the choice in the end?
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The Calimar is basically out of stock everywhere now. With no ETA. And i dont like ordering things like that.
My Spa pump was getting on my nerves because sometimes it would go and sometimes not.
It was sucking air from the strainer cover even after i replaced the cover and seal.

And my local store having the hayward in stock sealed the deal.
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Help! I can’t get water to clear up

Mdragger88
SarahObrem said:
Today’s photo
Today is the 1st day I can say that I am seeing a little progress. When standing right next to it I can sort of see the bottom of shallow end.
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Progress is progress 👍🏻
It can help to also have something in the water like the brush & pole to get an idea of how far down into the abyss you can really see when you take your daily snapshot
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where to find the replacement for cracked sta-rite niche and install it

F
my niche is cracked, the pod of the niche is thin like a copper paper. I do not know for what reason, maybe I did not put the pool light into the niche for 2 years, or maybe the PH was too high or to low in the pass 2 years.
now I want to buy the parts and replace it .
Q1: from the face plate, the model is wc3-53ss. and after reasearch, I found that the niche is sta-rite, which was accquired by Pentair.
now I need to buy the niche(Part No. 05068-0122) and the 2 gaskets(05057-0667) at least. does anyone know where to buy it , or buy the alternative?
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Q2: when replace the niche, do I need to cut the concrete flow
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shotcrete stairs - rebars needed?

J
AQUA~HOLICS said:
The surface to be applied to must be cleaned (power washed is preferred).
An aggressively rough surface is best.
Proper hydration of the original Shotcrete (surface-saturation-dry) prior to the second application.
Ends of the application should not be feathered in, that will create weak zone.

On a side note, do not allow for the use of rebound product in the stairs.
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Thank you so much!
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Controlling Calcium - Adding NAC Filter

JoyfulNoise
First off, I have no idea what a NAC is but it sounds like a bunch of the usual water pseudoscience nonsense. There are a lot of products on the market that make very ridiculous claims about what they can do and 99.9% of it is garbage. Just enough science to sound fancy and just enough wiggle room so that their claims hold no liability to them. So before we talk about NAC, you better post up some REAL peer-reviewed scientific data about them. Otherwise, it’s pure marketing BS.

As for living in Tucson and pools - get a standard whole house water softener based on salt regeneration and ion exchange resins (you know, the technology that’s been around forever and actually works) and run a like out to your pool autofill or just create an outdoor spigot. Then used softened water to do top offs. When you do that, your CH will stop rising. If you need to lower CH, draining the pool and refilling with standard city water (~ 200ppm CH) is fine.
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