First time pool owner

I added the pool details in the signature and followed the SLAM process yesterday. I have been maintaining FC level of 30ppm.
I have attached the pool picture of roughly 24 hours from starting the SLAM process yesterday. The water is not dark green anymore but still can’t see the bottom of the pool yet.

I have a cartridge filter. Anything I should do to accelerate the process?

Thanks!

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DE filter - complete replacement or replace components

I have a 48sqft Hayward Micro Clear DE filter that was installed in 1998 by Leslie's Pool Supplies. Model number is DE-LE-42054. Last year the pressure gauge/relief valve broke off and when I tried to drill out the broken piece, I stripped the threads on top of my filter head. I need to replace the top filter head, but can not find the correct model to do so. The model number on the part I'm looking to replace is DE-4800-BT. Leslie's recommended I use DEX4820BTC. I ordered this part, but it is not tall enough... the manifold and air relief assembly prevent it from going low enough to seat on the bottom housing. The exact replacement part is obsolete on every site I've checked.

Seeing as my filter is 27 years old... Is my best move to install a new filter entirely? 🤑 I'm not sure if there's a workaround I can use for the stripped threads on the pressure gauge/relief valve. Some photos are below. Thanks in advance for advice.

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Jandy Aquapure runs for 5 seconds on powerup then shuts off

I just tested the salt level with the Taylor test kit and it is 2800, when I first opened the pool 3 weeks ago the Taylor test kit read 2000, I added the normal 4 bags of salt and the SWG read 3.4. I did not test the salt further with the Taylor test kit because 4 bags is usually what it takes to keep the SWG happy. I know that if the level is too high or too low normally there will be an error message on the screen. I am not getting any mesages, just the power being cut after 5 seconds.

Bromine Pool, Algae Trouble

Hi: we’re having a heck of a time this year with green water. Opened the pool four weeks ago, and water clarity improved over two days. From there it’s been downhill - I think we didn’t follow some confusing instructions correctly, and I think two pool companies have us doing things that aren’t sequenced well. We started a SLAM yesterday, with alkalinity, pH etc in the proper range for SLAM - but after about 35 hours (added liquid shock 4x yesterday),we cannot get the FC much above 5 - but we’re also trying to gauge numbers on everything off of test strips. Ordered a Taylor kit - arriving tomorrow.
I’m thinking we start over when the test kit arrives. (I know strips are mostly unreliable - we were just trying to save some money which apparently was stupid). Mainly I can’t get a good cya reading, and pH is now completely unreadable on a test strip because of so much chlorine. So using Pool Math isn’t helpful when I don’t have great cya readings in particular to SLAM.

All that to say: should I continue adding chlorine today until test kit arrives tomorrow, so I don’t waste the work we’ve done? Or should I try to raise alkalinity with baking soda since it bottomed out, while we wait for the test kit?
I should say while we can’t see the bottom, there is no debris there. We have vacuumed to waste, run our robot (will do that again today) with little or no algae or debris evident. Scrub sides 1-2 times per day.

Also, it’s a bromine pool and bromine is registering very high. Should I turn its distribution off?

Help. 😊

Pool water very cloudy

We had our pool professionally opened 10 days ago and the water is very cloudy (cannot see the bottom of the pool). We have been to the local pool store several times and they say the chemical levels and salt levels are perfect. We washed the filters, we even changed the salt water cell. We have shocked the pool and added clarifier but the pool water looks exactly the same as it did 10 days ago. Do we need to drain and re-fill the pool? Any other suggestions as to what the problem may be? We have had our pool for about 10 years and have never had this issue

SWG and site recommendations to replace ichlor 30 with possibly LT25

I am surprised that your pool only used 1 ppm of chlorine daily from the Florida sunshine.
We have a lot of tree coverage so there's not a lot of direct sunlight. Any recommendations on sites for good deals? Trying to find a site to order from is difficult when they use MAP since they can't advertise their prices.

Weird Intellichlor messages

In my system, when the cell is performing its twice daily salinity check (alternating flashing red and green lights) it reports a loss of communication. I disabled that notification so I wouldn't get nuisance messages twice a day. That would explain the lost comms 12 hours apart.

In addition, my pump shuts down at that time.
That may be a separate problem. Since you operate 24/7, have you tried deleting the schedule and just keeping the "Pool" circuit on constantly?

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Inground Pool light 3 3/4" lens gasket search

Hello..........
I am in search of a gasket for an old 12V spa light, which has no identifying markings on the can. The lens is approximately 3 3/4" to 3 11/16" round. The lens has "Wade Design" printed on it.
I have already tried the Hayward SPX0590G, which was a perfect fit around the lens, but it was slightly too thick to secure the locking ring around it. I need a gasket that is slightly thinner. Possibly a cross section of 1/4" to 5/16" thick.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.......thank you all.

Day 7 of SLAM, CC Won't Go Down

If you started with a CYA of 50, continue to use that CYA number rather than the 40 you tested later.
For CYA 50, FC is 20.
During the SLAM, only test FC and CC.

pH test is invalid when FC > 10.
Did you reduce pH to 7.2 before starting the SLAM?

Clean your test vials with rubbing alcohol, dry thoroughly and run the CC again.
Got it.
I will use the CYA of 50 and focus on the FC and CC the rest of the SLAM.
I did add acid prior to the SLAM to bring the pH down to 7.2.
After cleaning and drying with rubbing alcohol my FC is 17.5 and CC is 1. I've added chlorine to bring the FC up to 20 and will monitor and add as needed the test of the day today.
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2 gal of chlorine a week?

If you use the PoolMath app on your phone, it will tell you how much is needed from your current level to get to your the SLAM level.
You should test and add more to get back to the level very frequently - every two hours to start. If you can't, life happens - but the process will take longer. As it progresses, you'll find it holding on its own more and more, so you can ease off on the time between tests. See the article about the 3 criteria you need to pass to consider the process done. It may take a few days (uninhabitable swamps taking weeks!) - yours sounds to be on the pretty short side. It will be safe to swim at the high CL SLAM level - nobody will notice anything different.
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Filter