A larger opening requires more flow to maintain the same pressure.

For a given flow the smaller orifice will give a higher pressure.

Bernoullis Principle - Bernoulli's principle - Wikipedia

ajw22 said:

Gurgling is the mixing of the air and water.

Does the noise stop if you close the valves?

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Nope. I can tighten as much as it goes and its still gurgling.

I understand some noise is normal. Was just hoping there was some kind of attachment that can muffle it.

jeepwm69 said:

From the little research I've done we need to turn the water over 3 times a day

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I would do more research, and understand the EXACT requirements that you need to meet. Including any sort of permitting, inspection and approvals you need. Then design the system around the requirements. This will avoid costly mistakes.

onBalance said:

The few white spots in your photos are NOT the same as what I wrote about in my article "White Spotting." Nor are they "calcium nodules." They are a minor plastering defect, which means they are not caused by unbalanced pool water, whether it be aggressive water or scale forming water. If there are only a few spots like that, then I won't worry much about them. Just unfortunate that they occurred and are there. And I doubt that those few spots would be the cause of the notable calcium increase.

You have grasped and understood the information provided to you very well.

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Thanks for the info! That does make me feel much better!

There are only a few little spots like that. I see 6-8 total, plus maybe some really tiny ones I can see from the pool deck that could be either a “spot” or just a larger chunk of white aggregate. Visually, they’re really not very noticeable, and if they’re a plastering defect, then I guess it’s possible they’ve been there all along and I just never noticed. I admit, I’m looking much more closely at the plaster job now that I probably ever have.

In addition to the small, very bright white spots, there are a couple others that are more mottled looking and do bug me visually because they are larger. The two in the photo are about 1” in diameter. The one toward the bottom of the pic is definitely a depression in the plaster, and the other one feels the same as the surrounding surface. Do these appear to be defects and/or normal color variations/mottling?

I am still completely at a loss to explain the high CH levels. I really don’t think my fill water is the culprit. Even before now, I had measured the CH of the fill water from time to time, and it was always soft. And in the past couple days, I’ve measured it at various times of the day and after varying water demand from the house, and it’s always CH 0.

The only thing I can possibly think of is that some limestone dust from the coping is falling into the pool and dissolving, but I’m not even totally sure whether any of the coping is limestone. The orangey rocks could be, but I don’t know for sure.

I will do a partial drain & refill. Is a CH target of 800 reasonable? That would be about 1/3 of the water being exchanged and assumes no softened water being added to the pool.

Welcome to TFP.

@Lake Placid maintains commercial pools. Let''s see what he suggests.

Algae has a biofilm to protect it. Brushing breaks the biofilm allowing the chlorine to kill it.

this stuff is resilient!

Does the brushing & stirring the algae up help kill it? Meaning, if its on the sides or bottom it wont be killed bc some of it is isnt in contact with the FC, but rather the pool finish?

PeteyPools said:

If it was plugged due to a leak I assume the main drain in the pool would also be plugged?

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Not necessarily. It is easy to plug the skimmer side. It is not easy to dive down and plug the drain side.

stacy78132 said:

free chlorine at 13 is okay since it seems so high

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Absolutely. Do it now.

Read this article:

How did you get 120? How are you testing your water. I would recommend that you retest starting at #8 here:

I just picked up Pool Essentials manufactured 25119.

Mdragger88 said:

@stacy78132,
can you post your latest results so we can ensure things are going swimmingly?
Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
Salt (if applicable)

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I attached a screenshot with my numbers from yesterday. Yesterday I was told to add 1 gal and 3 cups of 10% liquid chlorine so I added that last night. Since it's was the 1st time I used liquid I t3sted only the chlorine and pH today. Free chlorine was 5 and combined chlorine was 0. My pH was 7.8. Yes cya is around 125...it was much higher about 6 months ago but I did drain some water several times. For the last 6 months or so I've be researching all kinds of stuff on here so that's why I'm finally deciding to switch over to liquid chlorine. I just paid for the app the other day so I could maintain my logs on here. Also I had phosphates at over 4000 but thanks to everything I read on here, I treated with orenda and now they are normal! Anyway, I just really want to make sure that having free chlorine at 13 is okay since it seems so high. Thanks again for your help.

PoolStored said:

Welcome to TFP!!!

99 times out of 100, the “chalkiness” you see is NOT calcium scaling. It the breakdown/hydrolysis/oxidation of the clear gel coat on the FG surface. There is literally nothing you can do about this to stop it. All gel coats will begin to breakdown from the oxidative stress of water, chlorine, and UV. It’s simply the physics and chemistry of water and polymers.

The only way to restore it is to have the pool drained, the surface lightly polished to remove the porous layer and then a fresh gel coat applied. It’s, at best, impractical to do and would be extremely costly as it is mostly back-breaking labor. Anyone that owns a boat or a classic car knows how hard it is to keep these types of surfaces polished and cleaned (gel-coats on fiberglass are very similar to clear coats on cars).

@Texas Splash may have more weight on the subject...

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Thanks for the information. Seems to be the general consensus with the pool people around here( Venice , Fl) as well. Not many companies do the work and a first guess was around $7k for a straightforward 10000 gal pool. Yikes . I just had to have a skimmer replaced 2 weeks ago and that was $2300. The pool mainatence company I use said most folks just live with it. That is also a problem as the robotic cleaner I use sometimes gets stuck in a corner and the rubber wheels will spin and rub the coating down to the fiberglass leaving dark patches.

You are using flow sensing with the SCG.

It looks like the IntelliConnect thinks RPM is 0 and thus not turning on the SCG.

Carefully check that the wire between the pump and the IntelliConnect is not damaged or nicked.

YippeeSkippy said:

Hey there Fred! This can be a common problem, we've heard. @Texas Splash seems to have a good grasp on it, so I've invited him in to give his story.

Welcome to TFP We hope you'll stick around.

Maddie

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Thanks for the information

I still can't figure out the metal valve on the left...why put in a metal valve...there should be no metal to pvc connections in a pool.

With the valve moved, does it still lose prime?

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

Turn off your pump, remove the plug, and see if there is a pipe in the hole.

You don't know if there is a leak in the plugged pipe which may be why the plug as not removed.

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Thanks for the welcome.

If it was plugged due to a leak I assume the main drain in the pool would also be plugged?

Your pool is actually pretty ideal for a reel. My last pool was very similar in design and I was able to deploy it and retract it by myself. The toughest challenge is pulling the long end out. I would use my pole with brush attachment to pull it towards the opposite end of the pool. My pool didn't have a ladder but I don't see why you couldn't just trim around it.

For retracting the cover, as long as you take your time and tug and pull as needed to adjust, you should be able to handle it by yourself. Once completely rolled, you simply grab one end of the reel and walk it around to the opposite side of the pool. My reel and solar cover was light enough that I was able to pick it up from the middle and walk it to the side of the house. Yours may be a bit heavy for that based on the size of your pool.

If that was my pool, I would set it up directly over the shallow end skimmer. The fold created by the strap clips creates a fold upward. Before removing the cover, I would use a hose to rinse off the cover and direct debris into the skimmer. This would keep most of the junk from falling in the pool when removing the cover.

Take a look at the video below. I'm not endorsing the product, but it's a good demonstration of how to set it up on your pool.

Login to view embedded media

KevinInWA said:

Last year we got a Summer Waves 14' Elite above ground pool and enjoyed it all summer. Decided to leave it up all winter (covered), but we had a windy winter and the cover got leaves and debris blown under it and now the water is a green mess. I purchased the Intex Auto Pool Cleaner 28001e off of Amazon a couple of months and went to try to use it today to clean off the bottom. Per the (lame) instructions, I'm supposed to connect the hose from the cleaner to the water return port on the side of the pool. Unfortunately, the outside diameter of that port's male threads is about 2 3/4" while the hose inner female connector is about 2 1/4". Does anyone know of any place to buy an adapter for this pool cleaner? I've been to Lowe's and local specialty hardware store and searched on the web, but I can't find anything. Any insights would be appreciated. thanks

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I have this issue today!! Were you able to find an adapter??

susan williams 60 said:

Did I make a mistake by then adding stabilizer to the pool? That's something we never did once last season either, but I thought that adding it would preserve the chlorine level where it was.

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With no CYA, the chlorine burns off pretty fast and you need a higher percentage setting.

Once you add CYA, you need to adjust the percentage way down.

So, No, it was not a mistake to add CYA, but you did not account for the need to lower the percentage.

Now that you know, test at least daily until you get a solid handle on tuning in the readings.

Thank you so much! This is very helpful. It is pouring rain today but I will follow your advice and start trying to get the chemistry on track tomorrow. They are hopefully coming no later than Saturday, but who knows how long it will take to find the leak. Thank you again.

You can use all sand of a mix of sand and gravel.

Pour pea gravel first (if used) and then the sand into the top of the filter at a slow rate so that the impact of the filter media does not damage the laterals.

See Table 2 for the proper amounts of sand and gravel.

Fill filter to the proper level to maintain freeboard, as shown in Table 2.

superskaterxes said:

the user interface and program is just not intuitive.

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S,

That is because they write their manuals in a foreign language called "Pentair"...

Sometimes, knowing too much is worse that knowing nothing...

If you know control systems then you might be disappointed with how the IntelliCenter does things, as it is sometime not very logical in the way it operates.

No matter what SWCG you have it should only get AC power from the load side of the pump/filter relay.. They all can blow up if the flow switch or sensor goes bad..

If the cell was wired to the load side of the pump/filter relay, then to turn on the cell you would just have to be in the pool mode, no group needed.

As an example...

Pool schedule.. 10 am until 7 pm (Pool circuit set to 1500 rpm) Pump/Filter relay closed and cell running..
Sense schedule.. 11:30 am until 12:30 pm.. (Sense set to 3450 rpm) Pump speed increases at 11:30 and decrease at 12:30.

The above schedule will do exactly what you want..

I assume you know this, but just want to make sure...

A schedule just turns a Circuit on and off... If you want the pump to run at a specific speed, when the circuit is on, you need to assign a speed to that circuit.

If the pump sees two or more speeds at the same time, it will always run the faster speed.. This is why the above schedule example works the way it does.

What kind of pump do you have???

Please let me know if any of this does not make sense and I'll try again.

Thanks,


Jim R.