Shark22 said:

Is the rough surface making this more difficult?

Click to expand...

Yes, rough surface is what gives black algae a place to stick to and hide.

That is why black algae is only a plaster pool problem.

EstherWilliams said:

Got a new liner, filled the water, did the math, poured the liquid CYA....

waited a couple days.....digital tests at 2 various pool stores ranged from 25-40.....last three though were 25,28, and 27.....I can't tell if i can see the dot or not when I do Taylor...Even when I got my third 27ppm...I added 20 oz of liquid stabalizer, still got the same results from the pool store....I have to be really close to 30....have ABG vinyl above ground pool (not salt)....am I close enough to 30?!?!

Click to expand...

Best instructions available...do this:

I followed the TFP Black Algae treatment instructions, using the Pool Math calculator. I kept the FC elevated during a week of brushing and for a week or more thereafter. The algae retreated a little, but never disappeared until winter. Then I retreated. I was unaware of the need to run FC high forever. Is the rough surface making this more difficult?

Roperjoe said:

It is for an outdoor pool. The first couple years we had our pool, it never needed more than .5ppm in chlorine. Sometimes I would run completely out and it would be fine a few days. Lately (past couple years) I have to keep the chlorine really high all the time and as soon as it drops, I start getting algae. Assumed it was due to the modules no longer working on ozone generator, or the generic fusion replacement cartridges I have been buying.

Click to expand...

Here’s the spiel on ozone. We don’t recommend Jt’s use.

EstherWilliams said:

Got a new liner, filled the water, did the math, poured the liquid CYA....

waited a couple days.....digital tests at 2 various pool stores ranged from 25-40.....last three though were 25,28, and 27.....I can't tell if i can see the dot or not when I do Taylor...Even when I got my third 27ppm...I added 20 oz of liquid stabalizer, still got the same results from the pool store....I have to be really close to 30....have ABG vinyl above ground pool (not salt)....am I close enough to 30?!?!

Click to expand...

The pool store isn’t any better at the test than you. Fill up the dial to 30 mark and check if you can see the dot or not. If you can’t, it’s 30ppm. Don’t fill in between the lines on the tube.

Mdragger88 said:

You must drain the water to add the pavers if you have started filling. When you do this be sure to bury them so their tops are flush with the ground the pool bottom is sitting on.
All the legs should be level each way (all around) - you just have to keep adjusting them as the pool fills.

How to level above ground pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

Thank you for the insight. The link has great
info as well. Now I know the legs will expand with the pool!

PoolStored said:

A one time excursion will not damage the pool. Wait for FC to lower below SLAM level, then continue SLAM.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

MelusineBeerCo said:

So my pool has been requiring 1750 ml of liquid bleach a day. I have to go out of town for 10 days. Will I be okay to put ten times the daily- the morning I leave?

Click to expand...

No. Raise your FC to SLAM level FC. If you can get a neighbor to add 1750mL of chorine a day, do that.

ajw22 said:

You are not going to rupture a line.

You may find that the air bubbles are so powerful that they blow water out of your spa.

In Spa Air Blower - Further Reading are methods to tame a blower that is too powerful.

Click to expand...

Thank you sir. Much appreciated.

After you clean/ backwash your filter, make a note of the clean pressure at a given rpm.. The filter should be re-cleaned after pressure increases by 25%.

A one time excursion will not damage the pool. Wait for FC to lower below SLAM level, then continue SLAM.

berlinguyinca said:

Testkit should be delivered tomorrow. I post more when I know it.

Click to expand...

Post results, and do OCLT tomorrow night.

marypatv said:

50

Click to expand...

My target was 20.

Loyal_Lion said:

I have the Taylor K2005

Click to expand...

How old is the kit? If over a year, get a new kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared

You need, at a minimum, a K-1515 or equivalent to test FC. See...link-->FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

JJ_Tex said:

You are likely fine. What is your CYA?

Click to expand...

50

PoolStored said:

You likely have algae, even if you can't see it.

How are you testing your water? If you don't have a proper test kit, order one now. Link-->Test Kits Compared
If you have one, post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, Salt.

If you have one, do this test tonight. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If you fail, you SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process

Click to expand...

Testkit should be delivered tomorrow. I post more when I know it.

Welcome to TFP.

Shark22 said:

I have given it multiple TFP black algae treatments over the past 3 years. The algae disappears in winter, but is already coming back in May with FC at 6 or higher and CYA at 65

Click to expand...

Exactly what are the TFP black algae treatments you have done?

Current recommendations are:


Gently scrape a sample of the suspected black algae with your fingernail and then smudge it on plain white paper. If the smudge scrapes off and is a greenish color, then it’s black algae.

For Black Algae, you will have to disrupt the surface of the algae physically. You can use a wire brush or if it is just a few spots, put on a mask and snorkel, go into the pool, and pick at it with a bamboo BBQ skewer.

If you have more than just a few spots, get in the pool with a weak pressure washer, and you can use that to blast away the BA.

After physically disrupting the BA, you should dose it with Liquid Chlorine. Get the strongest LC you can find, and if the BA is close to the edges, pour the chlorine down the side where it washes over where the BA used to be. If the BA is all over the place, you can fill a 1-gallon pump sprayer, get into the pool, and spray those spots. And yes, you can do this all underwater.

Then you must keep your FC at 20% of CYA for the next several weeks.

This is the part that sucks; run your FC on the high side in the future at a minimum of 12% of CYA; 15% is better to try and keep the black algae at bay.

marypatv said:

Hi all, so I really messed up. I had to slam my pool and the pool math app said to use 5 gallons, but I didn't check the percentage of the chlorine. It was for 6% and I used 12%. So I added twice as much as I should have and now my chlorine level is 40. Do I just wait it out? Will this damage my pool? Do I add in some fresh water while draining it? TIA

Click to expand...

You are likely fine. What is your CYA?

Leaving a plaster pool empty in the desert normally sees the plaster become cracked and likely will delaminate when water is added. You can try to add water and see if it stays together, but the only long term resolution is to chip out the old plaster and do a new plaster job.

Welcome to TFP.

What do you think you are looking for in opening up the gunite walls?

Schedule 40 PVC does not crack in the walls of a pool.

A glued joint may leak in Schedule 40 plumbing, but only an insane plumber puts a glued joint within the gunite walls.

If you have a leak it is often around a penetration in the wall - return pipes, skimmers, lights.

Or the leak is outside of the pool in the pipes that run from the shell to the equipment pad. Again, it's likely a bad glue joint.

I think you are damaging the pool with your surgery.

pooldestroyer said:

Last May I had my 25,000 gunite pool replastered, followed all maintenance instructions, with no issues. I opened pool last week and while removing the plugs from the return I noticed the walls were rough and not smooth as they were after the job was finished and throughout the season last year. Also, my Dolphin robot has been picking up a lot of what appears to be white looking sand. I have had sand in the pool before due to the filter but it was more of a brown color and below the returns. I was just told they use sand in the replastering jobs. Is this a result of a poor job ? Thanks

Click to expand...

Another thought is that is possibly a bad tile job.

Welcome to forum!

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - the Trouble Free Pool

You need to post the picture so I can enlarge it. No way I can see anything on that picture.

That is odd the valves did not move. But they move for Spa mode?