Just opened pool, Ph > 10 and CC = 5.5

Just to bring attention back to the two outstanding questions- even with the high Ph should I just assume I have an ammonia issue and attack it as such? And if yes, other than raising the CH and salt slightly (and the expense), can I do this by using 54% granulated cal-hypo? I have a digital scale so I can get very exact on how much I'm adding. Thank you

propane tank size questions

Wait till you get the propane bill.
Propane isn't that bad around here tbh. I already use a heat pump to heat but figured that I could use gas to raise it quicker then maintain with the heat pump to get some efficiency. Also, if I remodel my home in a year I'll use the tank to put gas appliances in the house.

I'm more annoyed at now I need a gate, block work, stucco, paint, then a small pad for the tank before I can even install the dang tank. That's easily $4500 right there.
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Should I install a valve before this pump (picture)?

Yes, as you said, the filter PSI is a bit lower with the basket. Maybe that's enough to prevent full priming?
That really shouldn't prevent priming.

Just another thought is that if the basket is not installed properly, the lid may not tighten all the way.

The horizontal distance of the copper pipe from the skimmer to the point it exits the ground near the pump is 25 feet. The PVC piping on the pad is a mixture of 2" and 1.5" PVC. Lots of 90 degree turns in the pad PVC pipes though (see pad pics in my post #53). EDIT: Also, all the underground piping for the return to the pool is also 1.5" copper. There are 3 return jets in the pool.
27 PSI is a little high for that configuration but even at 27 PSI, flow rate should be no less than around 60 GPM and should prime.

I haven't re-read all the post but I thought you had said that there have been times when the pump was primed on high speed and all the air was evacuated. Is that correct?

Broken pipes

This was an unpleasant surprise. A small branch (like 1" in diameter and very light) managed to do this damage during a wind storm. Fortunately the heater valves were turned off. I'm wondering how this could happen? Could it be attributed to not having water running through the lines?
I've propped up the bottom pipe that goes to the chlorinator with bricks as to not put strain on that section of pipe.

I'm also looking for guidance on the best strategy to repair this. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to replace the two 3-way valves, the check valve, but not sure about the flow sensor or the temperature sensor. Any guidance and suggestions you have are much appreciated! I imagine all the pvc has been glued together. I'm hoping to do this myself (I don't have much plumbing experience but am handy) and hoping to not to have to replumb the entire system. Certainly the output to the drain and the section running from the pump to the filter could remain intact. HELP!!!

Thanks,
DanView attachment 642124View attachment 642125
Cut the broken parts flush with the valves, install 2" pipe extenders, replumb. Do that wherever needed. Likely won't be able to use sweeps as you will lose some room that way, but with a VSP you won't really notice any difference.

Just opened pool, Ph > 10 and CC = 5.5



You can't buy from KIK, but you can ask them where you can buy their products.
KIK Corporation
33 Macintosh Boulevard
Concord, ON L4K 4L5
Canada
863-967-4463
Facility : Denver, CO.
3910 Joliet Street, Denver, Colorado

View attachment 642142

Aqueos is "bulk...bleach distributors" (i.e. drums for commercial injection) and True Value isn't available at the store but for "special order". I appreciate the help. Let me know if you find any.
For what it's worth, my theory is that the residential pool market Denver really didn't exist pre-COVID. Even finding a pool company to do open/close/maintenance is very challenging. Most have lengthy wait lists so unfortunately you take what you can get (and if there isn't a wait list it's probably for good, or more likely bad, reasons).
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Pentair Filter Pump shutting off

The volute on my Polaris pump cracked the other day. Happened to be home when I saw the water spraying everywhere. Replaced and started up my 2.0 HP filter pump. Was having a little issue with getting a solid prime but it’s normally got a few bubbles blowing through my returns. After about 10-15 mins of semi-priming the pump just turned off. I checked the impeller and found no obstructions. I used a drain bladder while it was off to try and clear any other debris. Turned pump back on and it fired up with a not of trouble priming. Turned it back off after 30 seconds and filled the basket with water and tightened the lid. I stuck a drain bladder down a return line in one of my skimmers. Turned pump back on and it fired up. I was able to get a prime after a minute or two. Came back out a few mins later and prime was lost, but then I heard it catch again and it primed but blowing a lot of bubbles. A few mins later the pump cut off again. No visible leaks in my piping. I did notice the basket on the pump housing was whining a lot after it turned off. When I opened the cap the pressure released and it stopped.

The pump is about 6 years old. Is it overheating from not getting a prime or is it time for a new one?

Pentair Valve Actuator Acting Reversed

Don’t lol…..try remembering toggle switch positions for 30 accounts on spring startup….then technology is better so no more toggles. It’s the first move you make when the valves act squirrelly upon opening. 🤣
The industry seems interesting. I've helped a few neighbors with their pools and other thing already because many of them have don't have any handyman skills.

Polaris 3900 Sportsman won't stay on the bottom

I just had new wheels, new sprocket, new chain put on. Now the cleaner starts off, then sort of takes off and just flies around, not staying on the bottom. I'm trying to avoid taking it back to the pool shop again.
Be sure that you don't have a suction leak that is sending air to the cleaner.
Adjust the "thrust jet" at the back of the cleaner to face more downward to force the front of the cleaner down. See page 6 of the owner's manual.
Having a Polaris repaired at a store is no substitute for being on site and making the adjustments needed so it will work properly. The store is "guessing," an on-site tech can see what is needed.

White Cloudy Pool

I was getting excited to see a clear pool and didn't want to anything to go negative on me.
Salt can be added anytime you have the bandwidth for it in between slam tasks. (Slam always takes priority). Raising the salt might even help pass the time when you're waiting for the filter to polish out the last bit of dull water. Brushing the salt around will kill 2 birds with one stone

But use your salt test as the baseline and not the poolstore.

+10 CYA raises the slam FC +4, on the other hand. So at 70 CYA your target is 28 FC and its expensive to maintain. That one would have hurt.

Death Swamp

JJ_Tex, no I ran in recirculate mode per the instructions, it was some old Clorox floc from a couple of years ago that may have been expired, I backwashed yesterday and it was like milk, it ran about 4 minutes plus a rinse, I am running the filter on high, keeping up the slam, and waiting, however the filter is due to be changed, I will keep the old one, clean it out and clean the sand and check for calcium buildup, this is what I bet is causing the filter to take so Dang long, last year the slam was done in a week and crystal clear water.

P.S. The balls in the skimmer get all the fine stuff and work very well, better than a skimmer sock.

Lateral Assembly

If that is the right one for your filter, it is good. The open design was to allow sand to get beneath the hub and support it better, at least that is what I was told. Less plastic was probably less expensive as well.

If that is the right one for your filter, it is good. The open design was to allow sand to get beneath the hub and support it better, at least that is what I was told. Less plastic was probably less expensive as well.
Thank you, yes it had the right filter system listed for that. I got it from Pool Web.

Should I install a valve before this pump (picture)?

mas985,
Yes, as you said, the filter PSI is a bit lower with the basket. Maybe that's enough to prevent full priming?

With the basket (I call it ~26.5 PSI):
With pump basket, 3450 rpm.jpg

Without the basket (I call it ~27 PSI):
Without pump basket, 3450 rpm.jpg

The heater is not bypassed, and cannot be bypassed with the current setup.

The underground pipe is 1.5" diameter. This picture of the copper pipe was taken while I had inlet PVC disconnected from the incoming copper pipe coming out of the concrete (at that time a few days ago, I replaced the O-ring in the PVC compression fitting at the copper pipe):
Copper pipe diameter.jpg

The horizontal distance of the copper pipe from the skimmer to the point it exits the ground near the pump is 25 feet. The PVC piping on the pad is a mixture of 2" and 1.5" PVC. Lots of 90 degree turns in the pad PVC pipes though (see pad pics in my post #53). EDIT: Also, all the underground piping for the return to the pool is also 1.5" copper. There are 3 return jets in the pool.

I think I fixed a potential small air leak at that copper-to-PVC transition with a new O-ring. At least the small water leak that I detected when shutting off the pump while priming was gone after the O-ring replacement. For more info, I talked about that repair in, and around, post #23.

Copper pipe diameter.jpg

Without pump basket, 3450 rpm.jpg

With pump basket, 3450 rpm.jpg

Solar valve necessary with vacuum relief valve?

Thanks, just ordered it. On another note, is it better to run the pipes up to the roof through my eve overhang or go around the outside? I have a flat concrete tile roof here in Las Vegas.
If I were installing it, as I used to do, it would go over the eves not penetrate the roofing material. The less penetrations the better. Its not as pretty, but it works fine. As an installer/contractor, if it leaks its my problem. As a DIYer, its up to you, but drilling older concrete roofing isn't fun and is a potential roof leak. There are ways to hang the panels on a roof like that without any penetrations as well. Then it is only the supply and/or return plumbing that needs to be attached with as few penetrations as possible.

Just opened pool, Ph > 10 and CC = 5.5

Sometimes the person calls it by one name and you use a different term and they have no idea that it is the same thing.

Maybe you ask for liquid chlorine and they know it as sodium hypochlorite.

That’s why I always ask for every possible term.

Me: Do you have any liquid chlorine?

Employee: No.

Me: How about Bleach?

Employee: No.

Me: How about sodium hypochlorite?

Employee: No.

Me: How about Liquid Shock?

Employee: Oh, yeah, we got lots of that; it’s on aisle 3.
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Solar valve necessary with vacuum relief valve?

Solar valves have a check valve, yes. Could water eventually get to the panels with just a hole? Depends on the pump and water speed and the distance the water has to be lifted. If you have a VSP running slowly it wouldn't likely happen. If it does, it won't leak at the VRV as they close on pressure, they are just a check valve that opens on vacuum.
In Winter, with the isolation valves closed water can't get to the panels. In the Summer it matters very little as they would not likely ever fill completely. Its been done that way for as many decades as I have done pools, well before VSPs were used, with no issues I am aware of. Even with a single-speed pump I don't recall ever seeing the panels fill if there was a hole in the diverter. The supply pipe, yes. The panels, no.
And, I have seen many systems that used Jandy and Hayward solar controller kits that came with standard valve, no hole, that work just fine. Only Pentair/Compool kits came with that type of valve and only Pentair makes them today.
Variable-speed pumps, with their slow water during filtration (if set properly), change everything about the system.
If it makes you more comfortable, get a valve with the check valve in it and be good, won't hurt anything. If you don't you may be second-guessing yourself and then your pool won't be Troublefree.
Thanks, just ordered it. On another note, is it better to run the pipes up to the roof through my eve overhang or go around the outside? I have a flat concrete tile roof here in Las Vegas.

White Cloudy Pool

That's not how it works. Go back and read the SLAM article.
You maintain 16 by testing and adding back to 16 at least 3-4x per day, up to every two hours.
You continue to do that until your pool is CLEAR, for CC <=.5 and you pass an OCLT. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Leave your SWG off until you meet all three criteria.
After SLAM, let FC come down below 10, THEN test and post results, we'll point you in the right direction...
Oh, and clear means it looks like these...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
Thanks for the clarification. I know I still need to reach 16 and perform the OCLT, I guess I was getting excited to see a clear pool and didn't want to anything to go negative on me.
BTW, nice crystal clear pools!

Replacing a Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP pump with a Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP motor

Hi, yes pretty much. I also posted some additional details here : Replacing a Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP pump with a Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP motor
It seems you are confusing a motor with a pump. You seem to have a complete Jandy pump that would be fine to install. As far as the smaller filter you have, you just run a slower RPM. If the sealplate is bad it can be replaced. There is virtually never a reason to run a VSP at its full speed.
The motor will fit the Pentair, yes, if that is what you want to do. It won't give you the full benefit of a 2.7THP VSP. Both pumps use a 48 or 56-frame, square-flange pool motor. With the proper software revision, your Jandy system should be able to control the motor if you go that route.

Filter