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Need some help on a main drain cover
- By ajw22
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 6 Replies
Drain covers are required to meet the 2021 Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act (VGBA Act) when the pool is modified.
Safety Drains VGBA - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
The 2021 act required the cover to be certified with the sump. You cannot put a cover on a sump it is not certified for.
High free chlorine
- By Jsf721
- Testing and Balancing Your Water
- 6 Replies
I do all my testing with the TF pro kit with salt.Your RJ-60 will make 2ppm of chlorine a day running pump 24x7 and 20% output.
It really depends on the pool, how much it will use on a daily basis.
Is your CYA really 90?
Do this test starting at #8:
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
Do you use a solar cover?
Does the pool get full sunlight?
We can make a general recommendation knowing these things to get you to the 17th.
My sonar acid is 90 if not 100. I never rely on Lesly‘s testing which is why I bought my own test kit and to prove to myself that there was bad as this board said they were years ago. I took the same water sample to three Lesly‘s and got three remarkedly different test results. At that point, I started drinking the Kool-Aid around here.
My pump is running 10 hours a day currently it was set at 60% and I dropped it to 50% looking for feedback on if that’s the proper percentage to leave it at I would like my free chlorine to drop into the green zone for a 90 CYA.
My pool gets full sun for about five hours a day picture taken at 3:15 and then it slowly goes out of the sun. I do not have a cover of any type. Water temperature is a little over 60°.
New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading
- By PoolStored
- Just Getting Started
- 149 Replies
That's fine for now.
No, put the CYA into a human sock, tie it off and hang it 6-12 inches out in front of a return.
So either your chlorine is old, or your pool volume is wrong.
What are the dimension of your pool. L, W, D shallow and D deep?
Post a picture of the LC jug where the imprinted some numbers.
Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Run it 24/7. Pumps are made to run. Starting and stopping pumps are hard on them. Running them is not hard on them.
Post a pic of your MA bottle.
Stabilizer can be in the pool for adding anything else. Wait 10 minutes between adding acid and chlorine. Brush a bunch after adding either.
New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading
- By Pas_pool
- Just Getting Started
- 149 Replies
Appreciate all the info!Great. Let's get 30ppm of stabilizer in socks. Hang in front of returns, carrot on a stick style. Let it dissolve. You can squeeze the sock to help it dissolve.
Once the sock hits the water, assume your CYA is 50 (your test looks like *maybe* 20, and you are adding 30, so 50 for now). Add enough liquid chlorine to get your FC up to the top of the range for your CYA of 50. See here. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Turn your chlorinator up to 40%. Will likely be too high for this time of the year, but that is ok. Remember, FC up to SLAM level is ok for people and equipment. Better to be high, than low. You may be switching your cell between 20/40/60, to keep your FC in range. FC is consumed by UV primarily. Shoulder seasons (April/May and Sept/Oct) UV is lower. June July Aug, UV is higher. You just need to adjust your %output up and down to maintain FC in range for your CYA.
Once the CYA is dissolved, wait 24-48 hours and retest CYA.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
The pump side is more difficult.
The easiest would be to set your pump speed at 2200 for all three programs and forget about it. 2200, with a superflo should give you the 30GPM the heater needs. Gas heaters are better at heating quickly, HP do better when maintaining a temp. The best strategy may be to just run the 2200 and HP on all the time to maintain temp.
The alternative is to test the RPM to run the SWG. Use the down arrows to lower the RPM, until the low flow light comes on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM and program your pump to run at that speed 24/7. When you want to heat, and you turn on the heater, you will need to re-program your superflo to run 2200 RPM 24/7.
We are pinching pennies with the pump and the HP. Running a low speed, like 1400 will be $20/month electricity cost, 2200 will be like $60/month. Being a teacher with an infant, (*I don't know*??), $$ is important. Programming/re-programming the pump to run SWG at low flow 1400 vs. 2200 when you want to run HP is a chore. The trade-off is yours to decide. If you have the funds, set the pump to run 2200 24/7 and forget it.
View attachment 642330
Use muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2 to 7.4. Do it in .4 increments. Add enough to lower pH by .4, wait 30 minutes, and test, add again until you get 7.2 to 7.4. Then leave pH alone. It will rise naturally. When pH gets over 8 (purple hues), repeat the process to lower to 7.2-7.4. When you add acid, pH and TA drops. pH will rise naturally. Over time your TA will come down. When TA gets to 60-80, STOP lowering pH to 7.2-7.4, pH should stabilize around 7.8-8.0, which is just fine. I would test your fill water for TA.
At this point, other than maintaining FC for your CYA, and maintaining a pH in the range of 7.0 to 8.0, you are golden.
Good Job!
So for stabilizer. Pool math is telling me to add about 5 pounds to get to 50ppm.
So, in that case would you do 2.5 pounds at one skimmer and 2.5 at the other? I have skimmer socks to use.
Regarding liquid chlorine to get up to 8ppm (top range for 50 cya) I would need to add 93 oz of chlorine. When I did the pool math before the overnight test I added what it said to get it to 6 but it only raised it to 4.5. So should I just put a whole gallon of LC in instead this time?
As for pump I don’t think that money each month would be a big deal. Might just program it to 2200 for 24/7. Would it hurt anything if I had it at 2200rpm from like 8am-10pm and then have it off overnight? To give the pump a brake. (Like it is scheduled as default)
As for muriatic acid, it says 34 oz to get it down to 7.6 (I think I’m around 8 now). Might be higher than I think because I put that amount in last time and it didn’t seems to lower TA or pH at all.
Last question for now, can I add all of this at the same time or focus on one at a time? What I mean is can I address pH, stabilizer, and chlorine at the same time?
An Introduction to My Pool - Old Plaster - Old Pool - Black Algae !
- By Baxabillion
- Under Construction
- 59 Replies
@PoolStored @ajw22
So my pH isnt rising, my CSI is a 0.1. Is there anything for me to do here?
pH 7.6, Alk 80+, Ch 275, CL 3, CYA 30. CSI .1
So my pH isnt rising, my CSI is a 0.1. Is there anything for me to do here?
pH 7.6, Alk 80+, Ch 275, CL 3, CYA 30. CSI .1
