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melsteph · 2025-05-02T16:13:08-0400

I did order the granular form

I battle high pH all year long so am hoping to stabilize that somewhat, as well as intrigued by the potential for more sparkle, softer feel, and hopefully some algae preventative.

Am I wrong?
M

melsteph · 2025-05-02T16:12:58-0400

PoolStored · 2025-05-02T16:12:15-0400

You should not pressure test pool lines with AIR. Pressurizing with water is much safer. If you do it with air, use VERY little PSI...a leak will show up even with low psi. With my rig, I was able to get about 1psi just using my lungs. Do not stand in front of the plugs if you are going to use air. They can come out like a bullet.

ajw22 · 2025-05-02T16:10:49-0400

fabsroman said:
I'm guessing the SWG is just toast.

Seems the cell was not insane all along.

PoolStored · 2025-05-02T16:09:19-0400

Why are you adding borates?
What product did you get? If you got powder, it is really problematic to add. Better to get GRANULAR from Duda Diesel

Granular Boric Acid, 55 lb [boric55] | DudaDiesel Biodiesel Supplies

Not tips or tricks...but nice read here:

Borates in pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

fabsroman · 2025-05-02T16:04:49-0400

JamesW said:
Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

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Also, wouldn't it be reporting the salt level to the Easy Touch screen, which is showing me 4,350. I can check the salt level again with a drop test, which was at 4,000 before I added 3 bags of salt. My bet is that the salt level is being reported correctly by the IC60 at 4,350.

I'm guessing the SWG is just toast.

AQUA~HOLICS · 2025-05-02T16:04:23-0400

Issue #1: the shelf can be trenched/chipped out to relocate the bubbler, problems will occur if the rebar cage is cut and not properly re-installed.

Issue #2: Check the steel engineering plans to confirm the minimum depth of shotcrete required for the shelf and if 3” is removed will it still be within parameters, most likely not, also, in picture #2 it shows approximately 9” on the tape measure and this would leave approximately 5’ of water if the water level is kept in the middle of the tile line ( 3” of exposed tile and approximately 1” thickness of plaster on top of the shotcrete).

melsteph · 2025-05-02T16:01:41-0400

I am taking the plunge and going to add borates this year! This is my 6th season following all things TFP. Each year I have a goal to have a better pool than the year before so after researching and learning here, I decided to take the plunge.
Here were my levels last night:
TC 2.5
TA 100
CH 300
CYA 60
pH 8 * added Muriatic Acid

Borates arrive today from Amazon.

Am I ready to add them, according to my levels? Anything else I need to adjust? Tips, tricks, thoughts??
Oh and Happy Derby Weekend!
Melissa

ajw22 · 2025-05-02T15:58:32-0400

Pas_pool said:
and all had this expiration. 062. Does that mean like March 1 ish…?

The chlorine was bottled around March 3, 2025. Fresh stuff.

fabsroman · 2025-05-02T15:57:53-0400

JamesW said:
Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

Login to view embedded media

When you say to disconnect the water temp sensor, are you talking about the one plumbed in after the pump/before the filter with a lead that goes to the Easy Touch panel?

sylcar · 2025-05-02T15:56:46-0400

Hi all New here So I used the floc And the water is clear but the green at the bottom when vaccuum floats up still No matter how slow I go Tired of see that green at the bottom Please help

Jsf721 · 2025-05-02T15:56:28-0400

PoolStored said:
Do the test linked, start at #8.

Ok that’s was something I never did before. I got 40 on the tube so x 2 is 80.

Pas_pool · 2025-05-02T15:55:42-0400

PoolStored said:
When your additions match your expectations, with Muriatic or Liquid chlorine addition, testing after 30 minutes.
Put 25000g into pool math.
Next time you add acid or LC, test after 30 minutes.
If the addition matches, you are golden.
If the addition didn't lower pH or raise fc to your expectations, raise the gallons by 500 or 1000 depending on how far you are off.
Lower the pool volume in PM if you overshot (lowered pH further or raised FC further than anticipated) by PM.

Once you are dialed in, you don't have to change the volume any more.

That makes sense. Will up it to 25k gallons when I add chemicals later today.

And I just stopped at Ocean state job lot. Fantastic supply of a lot of different pool chemicals for cheap. All of their LC “shock” they call it is 12.5% and all had this expiration. 062. Does that mean like March 1 ish…?

Pas_pool · 2025-05-02T15:55:23-0400

ajw22 · 2025-05-02T15:54:28-0400

TinFoilHat said:
But it sounds like he probably still has his original sump.

jim.wilson01 said:
I now have new drain covers, I believe Aquastar 10" Anti- Entrapment cover and it does not seem to work very well at allowing the dirt Tobe sucked out of the pool bottom.

PoolStored · 2025-05-02T15:52:37-0400

When your additions match your expectations, with Muriatic or Liquid chlorine addition, testing after 30 minutes.
Put 25000g into pool math.
Next time you add acid or LC, test after 30 minutes.
If the addition matches, you are golden.
If the addition didn't lower pH or raise fc to your expectations, raise the gallons by 500 or 1000 depending on how far you are off.
Lower the pool volume in PM if you overshot (lowered pH further or raised FC further than anticipated) by PM.

Once you are dialed in, you don't have to change the volume any more.

Newdude · 2025-05-02T15:51:52-0400

MarkHoop said:
expense of the old opening and closing kits

What about the opening and closing expense alone ? It made sense to let them blow out my pipes when the installed the safety cover after the new pool was built. I didn't get to hear the exact amount because I spit out my coffee at :

'We'd love to for seven hun'

No chemicals....... already paid to install the cover....... 700 something to winterize the plumbing. Yeah.

no.

gnr5 · 2025-05-02T15:48:42-0400

Pool is leaking and I cannot find out where, my plan was to plug all the returns with pool plugs and start pressure testing one by one. And planned to build something similar to this in my local hardware store:

Am I over thiking this?

gnr5 · 2025-05-02T15:48:33-0400

timjet · 2025-05-02T15:46:46-0400

ajw22 said:
Pump RPM does not affect SWG chlorine output as long as the flow switch is engaged.

Only you can determine that.

Test your FC every day or two.

If the FC is decreasing, then increase SWG % or pump runtime or both.

If the FC is increasing, then reduce SWG % or pump runtime or both.

If you get little FC change then you are well dialed in.

Thanks again!

Newdude · 2025-05-02T15:46:46-0400

I'm still losing / producing about 2 FC a day nearby in full sun. It's going to be mostly cloudy or raining until the 13th so you'll be losing less than 2 FC a day for most of the stretch until you're back again.

If its running 24/7 then 10% is probably good to let it drift down while still adding a little

JamesW · 2025-05-02T15:45:14-0400

Pressure test why?

How about at the spigot?

JamesW · 2025-05-02T15:45:08-0400

Pas_pool · 2025-05-02T15:44:44-0400

PoolStored said:
I think your pool is larger.
18x36 and 3.5 and 8 is likely 27,900.
A sun shelf that is 1 foot deep would be reducing the volume of the pool by 12 x 6 x 2.5, or 1400 gallons.
I think you are closer to 26,000 gallons.

View attachment 642480

How would I be able to get my exact gallons?

JamesW · 2025-05-02T15:42:11-0400

Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

Login to view embedded media

gnr5 · 2025-05-02T15:40:52-0400

Hello, the most accessible area to do a pressure test in my pool are the jandy valves. I was going to try a 1.5 plug but realized that jandy valves are not round, is there an easy way to do this?

gnr5 · 2025-05-02T15:40:49-0400

WhatsApp Image 2025-05-02 at 3.39.21 PM.jpeg

TinFoilHat · 2025-05-02T15:40:40-0400

I just hung my tied off sock in front of my venturi skimmer off the end of my pool net handle and held it down with two bricks.

mattrosenberry · 2025-05-02T15:39:08-0400

Recent new homeowner going on our second season and dealing with pool tile issue. I'm comfortable with basic tile repair for pools, but the erosion behind the recently loosened/fallen tiles has me a bit concerned. Gunnite has chipped away or eroded into sand leaving larger gap needed for repair then what thinset would be designed for. 1) Is this of major structural concern? (I will mention it is concrete slab cantilever style coping/decking if it is relevant) 2) If no, I'm thinking this is a job for hydraulic cement to patch the eroded gunnite to be flush with the remainder of thell shell and do standard tile repair via thinset and grouting?

The pool is 22 years old and I am inclined to believe prior owner was not the best at pool chemistry upkeep and was a frequent DIYer, but the quality of some of his patchwork tiling appears to be spotty which may have lead to the further erosion of the gunnite behind the tiling.

Any insight or perspective is appreciated.

mattrosenberry · 2025-05-02T15:38:57-0400

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