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New pool owner - new fill - keep adding chlorine and FC will not rise

The post title says it all.

I am a new pool owner. We have an 18' x 52" above-ground pool, roughly 8300 gallons. The pool math app has suggested very low amounts of my 12.5% liquid chlorine to raise my FC. I ended up adding 256 oz of the liquid chlorine and the FC level is still 0. My CYA level is 0 as well and I do plan on adding some soon (I've been doing some research and it seems like 3lbs would bring me to my target of 45).

My question is this - why does the pool math app and any other online pool calculator suggest such a low amount of liquid chlorine? Do I have some other kind of issue since my FC level is not rising at all? I am feeling a bit overwhelmed and really don't want to mess up the water to the point that I need to drain it.

Thank you!

RPM changes from EasyTouch setting

P,

Does not sound like something that ScreenLogic or the EasyTouch can do... :scratch:

Are you using your PC or a phone to make changes?

Can you tell me, or show me, what you are doing? Pool vs. cleaner?? In general, all the electronics used to change "Pool" would be used to change "Cleaner" so on the surface it makes no sense, that one would work and the would not work..

Something else must be going on..

We need more info..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

Well, that lasted for a day. The pool has 2ppm chlorine now, but the cell light is flashing green again. I took the unit out, flushed it with water, and reinstalled it. There was no scale buildup on the fins. The cell light went back to solid green for about 30 minutes and now it is flashing again. Easy Touch panel is still reporting salt at 4,350. The salt level light is solid green. I am attaching a pic of the sticker on the back of the unit.

When I hold down the "More" button for 5+ seconds, the lights all flash, it runs through its diagnostics, it shows 40% remaining useful life (i.e., the 20%, 40%, and 60% lights are lit green).

I am about to throw in the towel on this one and just order a new SWG; however, if anybody has any advice on what I can do to keep this going, I'll take the advice and give it a shot.

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Chlorinator Sticker - 250502.jpg

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cheap but effective pool chemicals - what do you use and where do you buy?

Hey Whil and Welcome !!

We are *exactly* the place you'e looking for.

Bleach isn't strong enough for the cost. It's 6% or less and similar price as 10% or 12.5%. Pool Essentials Chlorinating liquid is most people's go-to at Walmart. Pool stores may have good deals on 12.5% but its hit or miss.

13lbs of Baking soda is a lifetime supply from Costco/Sam's and about $10.

Ace hardware has full strength Muriatic acid for $10 or $13, area depending.

That's it 99% of the time. Come check before buying anything else.
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Granddaddy starting a new project

So here I am, I just started this process about 3 weeks ago.
I'll try to make this short, I'm totally new at this, I'm in the process of getting my yard ready, the electrician came yesterday and ran conduit from my house (new dedicated breaker) to my storage building. BTW, last week I rented a Sod Cutter and move a lot of grass. Yesterday, I rented the worst Trencher in the state of Va) but I got it done :)
Anyway, the wires have been run, he even added an extra wire for Bonding. ( I've never heard of Bonding until several of you guys mentioned it.-THANK YOU!
So, here is what I have ordered, its all wrapped up in my garage.

12'x24'x54" AG Saltwater Titan Oval Pool, 12'x24'x54" Oval Uni-Bead Beach Haven Liner - 40 Gauge, AquaPro High Pro DE72 D.E. Filter System 2-HP 2-Speed Pump, Hayward Aqua Trol RJ Salt Chlorine Generator System, Lacus Wide-Mouth Above Ground Thru-Wall Skimmer & Return Fitting, Deluxe Pool Cleaning Kit - 5 Piece with 30' Vacuum Hose, 12'x24' Oval Space Age Silver/Blue Solar Cover, Confer Step 1X with Outside Ladder.
(I still have a lot of dirt to move, but my son-in-laws and grandson are helping)
After consideration, I've decided to go with an Electric heater. I'm open to suggestions for a quality heater. My calculations come to about 9700 gallons, so something that would work for it.
I also need to order a nce test kit and I guess some chemicals-? Again, I'm am totally green to all of this, so your ideas and explanations are welcomed.

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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Can you send me a picture of this? I am not sure how I would tie that off.
Us large pool folks need to be crafty.

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Sun ledge/baja shelf build

The “bond beam” is the top of the pool structure, it can be raised (in 6” IMG_0721.jpegincrements) or it can be at 0”.
Typically a reef step/shelf is excavated at 21” below the top of bond beam with 9” of shotcrete, 1” of plaster and 3” below top of tile, this should leave around 8” of water depth when finished.
Your calculations will leave 6’ of water (3” of exposed tile subtracted from the 9”) if it’s being measured from the top of the “bond beam”.
If it’s being said that there’s going to be 9” to finished water line then the measurement should be 13” from top of beam to top of shotcrete.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

No, put the CYA into a human sock, tie it off and hang it 6-12 inches out in front of a return.
Can you send me a picture of this? I am not sure how I would tie that off. And why can't I use skimmer socks? I bought a 50 pack :LOL:
So either your chlorine is old, or your pool volume is wrong.
What are the dimension of your pool. L, W, D shallow and D deep?
Post a picture of the LC jug where the imprinted some numbers.
So, I bought this chlorine this time around at a local pool store in CT that said it is made in Bristol, CT. It did not have a number stamped on it.

The dimensions of our pool are 18x36 with with a 12x6 sun shelf. Shallow end 3.5 deep. Deep end 8 feet. The diagram the PB provided said the gallons were 22,800.
Run it 24/7. Pumps are made to run. Starting and stopping pumps are hard on them. Running them is not hard on them.
Sounds good. Thanks.
Post a pic of your MA bottle.
I am not home, but I bought the same one you recommended from ACE. I bought thee bottles of that.
Stabilizer can be in the pool for adding anything else. Wait 10 minutes between adding acid and chlorine. Brush a bunch after adding either.
Sounds good

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Need some help on a main drain cover

Why did they change to a non-optimal drain cover?
Drain covers are required to meet the 2021 Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act (VGBA Act) when the pool is modified.


The 2021 act required the cover to be certified with the sump. You cannot put a cover on a sump it is not certified for.

How best to seal vinyl liner at light niche?

I tried to get the liner out of the track in that section, but it wouldn't budge. The liner is 11 years old, so it's been in there a while. The heat gun / hot water trick is a great suggestion. If I ever get in this situation again, I'd look into doing that to try and soften the liner a bit. From what I can see, the liner needs to go down an inch or more to align the screw holes, and it didn't want to budge. There is some liner still behind the niche outer ring, so I ended up using the butyl tape around that entire ring on the inside and outside (effectively using it as a gasket). I then patched the 4 exposed screw holes, which are just outside the niche ring. I filled the pool a few inches above there, and it held. I then filled it above the patch on my steps, and that held. Now I have the pool filled and am running the filter. I'll monitor it carefully from here. Thanks again for the suggestions!

High free chlorine

Your RJ-60 will make 2ppm of chlorine a day running pump 24x7 and 20% output.
It really depends on the pool, how much it will use on a daily basis.
Is your CYA really 90?
Do this test starting at #8:

Do you use a solar cover?
Does the pool get full sunlight?
We can make a general recommendation knowing these things to get you to the 17th.
I do all my testing with the TF pro kit with salt.

My sonar acid is 90 if not 100. I never rely on Lesly‘s testing which is why I bought my own test kit and to prove to myself that there was bad as this board said they were years ago. I took the same water sample to three Lesly‘s and got three remarkedly different test results. At that point, I started drinking the Kool-Aid around here.

My pump is running 10 hours a day currently it was set at 60% and I dropped it to 50% looking for feedback on if that’s the proper percentage to leave it at I would like my free chlorine to drop into the green zone for a 90 CYA.

My pool gets full sun for about five hours a day picture taken at 3:15 and then it slowly goes out of the sun. I do not have a cover of any type. Water temperature is a little over 60°.IMG_4494.jpeg

Need some help on a main drain cover

Why did they change to a non-optimal drain cover? Post a pic of it and someone might have an idea of what you can use instead. Since they didn't change the drain itself (or did they dig it out and replace it) then you could probably put the old style back on because the screw holes should be the same as before. Do you not have a QuickSkim with venturi water streaming under the skimmer basket? Have you turned the valve to 70-80% drain and tried that? How was it all set up before, if you know. (the techs might have messed with the valves)

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

So, in that case would you do 2.5 pounds at one skimmer and 2.5 at the other? I have skimmer socks to use.

So for stabilizer. Pool math is telling me to add about 5 pounds to get to 50ppm.
That's fine for now.
So, in that case would you do 2.5 pounds at one skimmer and 2.5 at the other? I have skimmer socks to use.
No, put the CYA into a human sock, tie it off and hang it 6-12 inches out in front of a return.
Regarding liquid chlorine to get up to 8ppm (top range for 50 cya) I would need to add 93 oz of chlorine. When I did the pool math before the overnight test I added what it said to get it to 6 but it only raised it to 4.5. So should I just put a whole gallon of LC in instead this time?
So either your chlorine is old, or your pool volume is wrong.
What are the dimension of your pool. L, W, D shallow and D deep?
Post a picture of the LC jug where the imprinted some numbers.
As for pump I don’t think that money each month would be a big deal. Might just program it to 2200 for 24/7. Would it hurt anything if I had it at 2200rpm from like 8am-10pm and then have it off overnight? To give the pump a brake. (Like it is scheduled as default)
Run it 24/7. Pumps are made to run. Starting and stopping pumps are hard on them. Running them is not hard on them.
As for muriatic acid, it says 34 oz to get it down to 7.6 (I think I’m around 8 now). Might be higher than I think because I put that amount in last time and it didn’t seems to lower TA or pH at all.
Post a pic of your MA bottle.
Last question for now, can I add all of this at the same time or focus on one at a time? What I mean is can I address pH, stabilizer, and chlorine at the same time?
Stabilizer can be in the pool for adding anything else. Wait 10 minutes between adding acid and chlorine. Brush a bunch after adding either.

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