Damaged Waterfall Weir

I have the Cascade effect not the Rain effect. As I look at the Jandy catalog, the drawing of the Sheer Arc Rain Waterfall appears to match my fixture exactly (just mounted upside down), but the Sheer Arc Cascade drawing does not appear to have the same extension at the end so it doesn't match exactly (if the drawing is accurate). Both drawings are attached. If the drawing of the Sheer Arc Cascade is not completely accurate, then I agree with you that this is the waterfall I have. I sent an email to Jandy asking them to identify this waterfall. We'll see. In the meantime I might just order the one you found and see what it looks like.

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Jandy Sheer Arc Rain Waterfall.jpg

Jandy Sheer Arc Cascade.jpg

propane tank size questions

Other than how much storage of propane you want the other thing that determines the minimum size of the tank is the maximum rate of propane usage. The tank needs to be large enough to absorb heat fast enough from the air or ground (if it's buried) to boil the liquid propane in the tank to a gas. In the warmer month this is rarely ever an issue unless a tank is grossly undersized. In the cold months, it's much more of an issue. The boiling point is low and the heat of vaporization is a decent. Once you get below freezing the air doesn't have many BTU's in it.

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Damaged Waterfall Weir

I just found this in a Jandy catalog. It sure looks like my waterfall, just flipped over and incorrectly installed.
Did you have the "rain" effect or a "sheer?" The sheer is available here according to the website:

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propane tank size questions

+1 on bigger is better. I have a 250 gallon buried tank and I wish it was bigger.

Not just that you can buy when propane is cheaper, but there is a fill charge every time they come. Around here that is $30-$40. So having to fill less often is valuable too.

Buy once cry once.
According to the guy I just talked to, about 5-6k for 250, 7-8k for 500. Lots of money but I can use it for future remodel with appliances and water heaters. That includes dig, permit and pipe to where I want, regulators and $2.20g for the introductory fill. More than what I want to spend for sure. Will think about it.

Boric Acid Test

What's your favorite boric acid test strips? I currently have Pool Check B03 that I purchased via Amazon.

It's really hard to tell exactly where my boric acid level actually is. According to the test strips, it indicates greater than 25 ppm, but less than 50 ppm. I've added 55# of boric acid from Duda Energy over 2-3 weeks, following instructions to the letter.

I use the TF-Pro Salt Test Kit 3 times per week, and my pool chemistry is as close to perfect as I can get it. The only wild card is the boric acid.

I'm not overly concerned because my pool water is fantastic. I'm a bit anal retentive with water chemistry after spending 33 years in the Hydronic HVAC industry. I like to be asaccurate as possible.

CC - Wont go down!

I would suggest at least 3 gallons per bather of water replacement.

For 70 people, that is a minimum of 210 gallons (0.8 cubic meters) of water replacement.

In about 100 days, you should have replaced the entire volume of pool water.
We do a filter backwash already that uses about 1000L every 3 days, so not miles off that figure.

I think with the UV system, on demand after heavy usage like you say is the key, maybe running overnight and then in the morning we can restart the Salt chlorinator and do a liquid dose to bring it back up in FC levels..

Thanks for your feedback, replacement of water is bloody expensive when you heat it to 31 Deg mind!!
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Borates are Coming!!!!

I battle high pH all year long so am hoping to stabilize that somewhat, as well as intrigued by the potential for more sparkle, softer feel, and hopefully some algae preventative.

Am I wrong?
Sparkle is overblown. I don't notice the softer feel, nor does my family. Will not give you any algae prevention. The benefit of borates is to reduce the pH in the SWG reducing the tendency to scale.

Now that you are going to add them, you need to be able to test borates. See the borates article for Borates testing.

For you FC, you need to follow this. Keep your FC at the top end of the range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

pH rising is due to your TA and the TA of fill water. Borates may reduce the frequency of acid additions, but not the amount. You will still want to lower your TA to reduce the amount.

Borates are Coming!!!!

Each year I have a goal to have a better pool than the year before

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TC 2.5

CYA 60

:(

FC is king. Nothing else matters if you get a swamp while pondering / doing it.

Am I ready to add them, according to my levels?
You'll want the TA about 60. It will take more MA to lower the PH at 100 TA.

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