@mknauss is spot on. You can run up to 90%, 24hrs/day and make 5.3ppm (Don't run 100% 24/7, not good for the cell).
You just need to match your output (run time and % output) to the need of your pool to maintain FC.

I'd raise your CYA to 60 for now (not higher until you get FC under control).
Raise your FC to the top end of the range for your CYA. Use liquid chlorine Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Then, as Marty indicated, run your SWG at 80% for 16 hours and see if that maintains FC.
If not, up the runtime or output%.
If it rises, lower the runtime or output %.

OK been reading it up. Question though, I calculated my pool size wrong......well when i bought the newer liner i knew the gallons but then somewhere down the line the pool store had an incorrect number on my sheet and i started to think that was the gallons. So i dosed for CYA and alk and such at the lower number. I aimed for dead center of all the recommended levels vs the bottom numbers so I am pretty sure they are in range. But should I just keep slamming or test again and fix all those levels to what I want them to be? I know the PH wont work at slam levels but should i even bother until i have cleared it up more? 21100 is the gallons and I was dosing for 19000. Its only 2000 gallons off and I of course tossed a few extra shakes of each thing I was dosing in there so I may actually be at the correct numbers.

But seriously though this pool was destroying free chlorine until this morning basically. After 2 hours now I amfinally seeing FC at 7 and 8 vs 1 or 2. Sticking to the process though and I am not bothering with the overnight test until maybe tomorrow night. Its just too murky to even think its done. CC was up to like 5 but its been at 1 or 2 the last few tests, which i thought would be way higher with how cloudy it is. I assume that number will jump up after tonight and lower again during the day when im dosing.

Well I know you dont see me doing it but if anything i said here sounds wrong in anyway let me know. Took years of improper care to get here so i know it will take time to clear but i just want it open by memorial day so i can get drunk and float!!!!

Thanks for helping a newbie out.

Run the SWCG at 80% for 16 hours a day. That will add 3 ppm per day. Run longer if needed during mid summer.

You don't need to wait.

I was in the process of writing a response, took photos, even made a diagram since it's hard to follow the wires in the pictures, and as I was writing my comment, I realized I forgot about one very important change I made last year towards the end of the season: I tried using feature circuits to drive the pump speed, but never fully understood how they worked and was distracted by the issues with the incorrect wiring of the SWCG.

Jim, you told me this last year, but I forgot this detail and didn't put 2+2 together after updating the wiring this season...

If you schedule a Feature Circuit all by itself, it will cause the pump to run at the speed assigned to that circuit. But... it will not close the Pump/Filter relay as the system is not in the Pool mode or Spa mode.

Click to expand...

The reason I had no power to the SWCG was because I didn't actually have the Pool circuit relay on through a schedule. I thought I did but wasn't paying close enough attention.

I now have the following on schedule, and everything is working properly:

• Main pool circuit (set at 1750 RPM) - 7am to 10pm - Keep SWCG going through the day, can't reduce RPM further due to length of run.
• Feature circuit (2250 RPM) - 4pm to 6pm - Boost a bit towards end of day after usual swimming
• Feature circuit (2850 RPM) - 8am to 10am - Usual time I will vacuum and help get things flowing in the morning

And since I already made the diagram, maybe it will be useful to someone else on here trying to diagnose issues with relays, wiring, or SWCG.

Thanks again, Jim!

PoolStored said:

12 hours at 65% in your pool will add 1.9FC.
That cell is very undersized for your pool.
Do you have automation?
Can you post pictures of your pad?

You should have a Pentair IC-60 or Circupool RJ-60+ for the size of your pool.

Click to expand...

I’ve always wondered if it’s the right size… of course on the unit it says it’s up to 40,000. Pool was built in 2022 each year I’m learning more about how to take care of the pool. Always struggled either way maintaining FC.

How long do I need to wait after adding the baking soda and cya to add 2 gallons of liquid chlorine to get the FC up to 12 ppms? I remember seeking something somewhere about waiting several hours after adding baking soda to shock your pool but I don’t know if that is true or not.

If you can clearly see the bottom of the pool, then yes. You need to be able to see a person on the bottom to retrieve them. This is for safety.

For swimmer comfort, you might raise pH to 7.2/7.4 with 20 mule team.

Pollen, cottwood maybe...

You can brush. Immediately add the CYA in the sock. Once the sock is in the pool, start the SLAM.

After about 30 min of soaking, hold the sock in front of the return and start squeezing.

It says to add baking soda to the deep end. Do I brush after adding it? How long do I need to wait before starting the SLAM and adding the CYA?

Do not lower pH util you get to 8.2, and then only lower to 7.8 or 7.9...hopefully it will be stable.

PoolStored said:

Yep!

Click to expand...

Golden question.. is it swimmable?

Yep! Sorry, leave pH testing alone for now. Focus on FC and CC and OCLT.

12 hours at 65% in your pool will add 1.9FC.
That cell is very undersized for your pool.
Do you have automation?
Can you post pictures of your pad?

You should have a Pentair IC-60 or Circupool RJ-60+ for the size of your pool.

Then your plan is a good one. That is called under pad for a pool bottom.

Do you have any foam cove? This is to keep the liner inside the walls and dirt out.

PoolStored said:

Great. Just monitor pH for now.

Click to expand...

Continue SLAM until I can get proper overnight loss results?

Aquarite has a number of different cells..what cell do you have?

Hayward aquarite. I didn’t test this morning.

Here’s my latest results. pH has gone up from 7.4 to 7.78 in a day. Hopefully it stays here. My CSI seems quite solid no?

P.S. I bought a pH/salinity/TDS/etc meter from Amazon which helped me measure pH a lot more easily. I hope it’s accurate. It read 7.78 right now - while the simple drop test with the colors makes it look a lot more than 7.8 (picture attached). But I admit I didn’t do the white background from a computer monitor / etc.

You should use good high-temp unions on the pump.
Looks like this with an o-ring that seals to the pump, not the threads.
Jandy, pentair, hayward and CMP make good unions

ldh_14 said:

My question is if I run my filter 12 hours a day 8a-8p, how do I know what percentage to run the SWG? Today I ran it at 65%. I just tested the chlorine after 11 h run time and it’s only at .4 ppm.

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Not enough information. What specific SWG do you have? What was the FC at the start of the 11 hours?