Latest activity

ajw22 · Monday at 9:10 AM

Scandela0629 said:
This does not apply to Heat Pumps, electric heaters, or solar heaters."

These is no chemical reason for needing CH in those devices.

Scandela0629 said:
Does that mean I can "ignore" Jandy's recommendations? Or should I raise the level to the 200 or 300 level?

That is up to you.

Jandy and other manufacturers tend to simply cut and paste the same generic water chemistry recommendations in all their products. They do not tailor them to a specific product need.

jsygrls · Monday at 9:09 AM

Hello and welcome, you'll want to fill out your signature so if you have any questions other will know what equipment you have.
Your Signature - Further Reading

davethomaspilot · Monday at 9:07 AM

Katodude said:
I remember that it is recommended to only use the 32bit very often the Rpi OS.

There is no issue running on a RPi 4 my controller has been running on it just fine. I cant tell you what version it is running on, but it has to be over 8 months old.

Jimrahbe · Monday at 9:05 AM

400,

The idea that chlorine is what 'eats' heaters is just a myth... Sigh!!!

It is low pH, and does not come from a SWCG, but from tablets which have acid in them.. This sludge from tablet feeder will run backwards into the heater and destroy it..

If you do not have a tablet feeder, then you do not need a check valve.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Lake Placid · Monday at 9:05 AM

Saftron will custom make rails to your spec.

Custom Rails

Many of our pool rails can be ordered custom for height, width, number of bends, color, and more. View our Custom Return-to-Deck Order Form or reach out to a sales representative for more information.

saftron.com

They may also have an off the shelf solution.

Pool & Spa Hand Rails and Ladders

Saftron hand rails and ladders are made with high-impact polymer formulated for longevity. Impervious to rust. Code Compliant. Made in USA. 30+ Years Experience.

saftron.com

SR Smith may have an option as well, they can also customize.

Swimming Pool Rails and Ladders | Official S.R.Smith Products

S.R.Smith carries a full line of residential swimming pool rails and ladders to help your pool stand out. We also offer custom pool rail and ladder services to help you make your pool unique.

www.srsmith.com

ajw22 · Monday at 9:05 AM

Describe what you expect nocturnal cooling to do?

What old system had it?

ajw22 · Monday at 9:03 AM

Maybe @1poolman1 has seen that setup.

Jb48560 · Monday at 9:03 AM

Good morning! Refilled pool about 80-90% due to high CYA. It was filled again by this Saturday morning. I Added about 3 pounds CYA this weekend to get it back up as nothing showed on CYA test (as expected) after the refill. I have been adding a quart or so of acid each day since according to pool math to start working down the PH. So far PH is just fluctuating between 8.3 and 8.4. I have been adding liquid chlorine as recommended each day as well. Anything else I can do to assist in lowering my PH? Am I being impatient lol? My test readings are attached here. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Jb48560 · Monday at 9:02 AM

leahapril · Monday at 9:02 AM

thank you for your reply will this picture help? As we aren’t sure ourselves. The pipes are underground and this was what we were given

leahapril · Monday at 9:02 AM

Jimrahbe · Monday at 9:00 AM

5901,

Show us several pics of your equipment pad..

Thanks,

Jim R.

tcat · Monday at 8:58 AM

I check CYA in April and make sure it's at least 50. I have kept my FC at 4-6 up until it started going down. My salt cell is new and seems to be producing (no error lights). I'll bring CYA up to 40 today and do another OCLT tonight. My pump was off after last night's test, so this morning may have been inaccurate, I'll run it tonight. Have had nothing but clear water. Algae would seem odd.

Jimrahbe · Monday at 8:58 AM

Lawrence,

Normally, the Intake valve (the automated valve right in front of the pump) is either fully in the Pool mode or fully in the Spa mode..

Your Intake valve is set to suck water from the spa and the pool, which is odd...

I suggest that you set the valve to be fully in the Pool mode, and see what happens.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Winger 03 · Monday at 8:55 AM

Dirk said:
Just a caution, as I am having a similar experience (wrote about it here). I needed a filter plug quick, because I couldn't run my pump without that plug. The $25 Pentair OEM part would take almost a week to arrive. The $13 generic one I ended up buying arrived in a couple days and got me running. And I saw some on Amazon that were half as much. Very tempting. But the reviews revealed that some of those cheaper third-party parts failed after a time. That got me nervous, so I ordered the OEM part, too, which I will install today, and keep the generic as a temporary back up.

Point being, a filter is a pressure vessel and its components are subjected to many extremes: the pressure, temperature swings throughout the year, and even each day, a constant exposure to harsh chemicals (chlorine, acid, etc), and sometimes some serious torque (as you now know). A filter component failure could be as simple as a small leak, or it could be catastrophic, emptying your tank, some amount of your pool, and potentially causing an expensive pump failure (which is the exact story an Amazon reviewer told after buying a cheap plug). In other words, it is not the place to try and save money.

So your 97¢ part might fit, and it might not*, and it might be made out of great materials, or it might not. You won't know until it fails. Up to you, but personally, I didn't want to chance it to save 12 bucks. Coincidentally, that was your savings amount, too...

* A very cheap PVC plug would screw into my filter. Sort of. Turns out, the NPT threads of the PVC cap are tapered, while the threads on my filter and its plug are actually straight threads. So they seem to fit at first, but they don't, and shouldn't be trusted to. So that's something else to consider with a DIY fix.

Sometimes, you do get what you pay for, even at a pool store.

Dirk:

Thanks for the insight, I never really thought of it that way. Going on 5 years and still OK, but your larger point is a good one. I may just pick up an OEM and use that one for peace of mind.

cthenrys · Monday at 8:54 AM

A couple of new questions. First I have a water temp sensor that is hose clamped onto a PVC line. That has had a drip leak since I have been here. How best to seal it ? Silicone sealant ?

Second, I have two light fixtures in my pool. One of them I replaced a couple of years ago as it kept tripping the GFCI. The other stopped working in the winter so I finally got around to checking it this weekend and it had a fair amount of water and the LED bulb I installed was ruined. I dried it out and installed a new bulb and the fixture works (whew) but I have had issues with this one in the past getting a good seal. Have replaced the gasket, but any good tips for ensuring you have a good seal before submerging ?

cthenrys · Monday at 8:54 AM

Bperry · Monday at 8:51 AM

KatyPoolOwner said:
My Chlorine on Friday was close to zero. The app recommended adding 13oz of TriChlor, but I have no idea how many pucks that means? I added two. My Chlorine level 48 hours later is 1.5. I live in Texas and the weather has been in the 90s this week.

Backstory - - My CYA was 200, because my pool company had 9 pucks in my chlorinator when I took over my pool. I ended up having to drain 2/3 of my pool to lower the CYA. I am wondering if there is a problem with my chlorinator since my chlorine level is only 1.5 after adding two tabs. I am afraid to add more tabs, because I don't want my CYA to get high again.

Do I add more tabs? How much is too much?

You should I post the most recent set of test results to help. Your chlorine level is too low. If your CYA is low, then adding more pucks is fine. If your CYA is over ~60ppm, then you should use another type of chlorine that doesn’t have CYA in it.

ajw22 · Monday at 8:47 AM

BLPT said:
Will setting the salt cell to 0%, pressing Start/Stop at the pumps and turning off pump schedules be sufficient prior to draining? Do I need to turn off any breakers?

It never hurts to flip breakers off so something does not accidentally begin running.

cthenrys · Monday at 8:46 AM

I will do that.

I have wired in the IC40 communication to the J20 port but there were other wires landed there. I can control the salt cell perfectly through the controls on the EasyTouch panel. However, I did not double up the wires but replaced them, assuming it was just a water temp sensor, but my EasyTough remote no longer communicates. Can you double up the comm wires, or do I need another comm port to control the salt cell ?

Jimrahbe · Monday at 8:46 AM

L,

Those are ball valves.. When the handle is parallel to the pipe the valve is fully open. When the valve is perpendicular to the pipe, the valve is fully closed.

Tell us what the three inputs to the pump are from??

Thanks,

Jim R.

lismail · Monday at 8:46 AM

Sure thing, here are the requested images. As for the chemicals, I have a cleaning company that handles that. They supposedly use Taylor test kits. Last readings: 2 chlorine, 7.8 pH, 60 alkalinity, 100 Calcium, 60 CYA

Pool automation off:

Pool automation on:

lismail · Monday at 8:45 AM

lismail · Monday at 8:45 AM

lismail · Monday at 8:45 AM

lismail · Monday at 8:45 AM

lismail · Monday at 8:45 AM

pkholkan · Monday at 8:44 AM

This controller is used for a YMCA pool that recently experienced an outage. Power back on but controller screen is not as it was. Something is not right. How do I reset info screen

ajw22 · Monday at 8:44 AM

Imagine said:
Looks like Pentair IntelliCenter is quite expensive :-(. What would be a cheaper alternative to SunTouch if I can live without WiFi? Thanks.

Dunno. Shop around and let us know what you find.

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Preventing SWCG from backflowing into heater

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Swimming Pool Rails and Ladders | Official S.R.Smith Products

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Drain and refill for plaster pool

Looks like I need a new SWG

Where should these valves be facing?

Sheer Descent Waterfall Has Become Weak

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BECSys 5 controller

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