Premium is so you can store all your logs and we can see the history too.

In either poolmath, go into the upper left menu and select 'effects of adding' fill in your gallons and select SWG.

Then select your SWG from the list, 'calculate for free chlorine' and fill in the hours and %. It will tell you the expected production at the bottom.


You can also change calculate for FC to run time or % to do it the other ways. Basically you give it 2 of the 3 and it calculates the 3rd.

The reason you are going green is an imbalance between your Free Chlorine, and your stabilizer.
Stabilizer is a bad label - CYA essentially 'binds' with the Chlorine to slow down the degradation due to UV from the sun, but in doing so, it makes it less 'available' to kill off the algae and such in the water. It does nothing to stop the chlorine being used up by killing off nasties...think of it as Chlorine-Sunscreen. Hence, if you add stabilizer, you have to add free chlorine to keep them in balance, so there is enough Free Chlorine available to kill off the nasties in a reasonable time, and the rest is sort of in reserve... That, at the heart of it, is the TFP method.

In order to correctly balance your Free Chlorine and CYA (Stabilizer), you need a good test kit. We recommend one of these : Test Kits Compared.

With those in hand, you should then be able to keep your CYA and FC balanced, and you'll never go green again.

Bear in mind, the UV from the sun only stops at night - so if you don't keep adding Chlorine, it will get used up and you'll head back toward Green pretty quickly. Typically you can expect to see 2-4ppm loss per day, which in 4400 gallons is about 2 cups of 12.5% Liquid Chlorine each day.

If you're adding Dichlor (powdered shock) or Trichlor (the little pucks) then you're also adding CYA/Stabilizer back in again...and you'll be back in the same cycle.

You really need to read this - Pool Care Basics

.

JPMorgan said:

Another (unrelated) issue we are having is a flow rate that is not meeting state requirements. Flow rate is typically 120 gpm. 170 gpm is required. From comments above it sounds like our pump is very capable of delivering that amount of flow. Any idea what would be the most like cause or the first things to explore? If I sent photos of plumbing configuration would that help? We have three different proposals from a pool company to try to address this. Would it help if I sent those?

Click to expand...

Can you describe the plumbing is a lot more detail and/or post a schematic of the entire plumbing system complete with all fittings, valves and basically anything that touches the water flow stream?

What is the filter pressure of each filter?
What is the height of the filter gauge relative to water level?

I can run head loss calculations to determine if the plumbing setup should be better than it is or it is operating as expected. But I need as much detail on the plumbing you can provide. A picture of the equipment would be helpful as well.

JPMorgan said:

The vendor mentions the 3" pipe bushed down to 2" as being "hydraulic inefficient." This seems to be the same as what you are saying is a likely cause of the restricted flow. Flow rate is measured daily. The flow meter is a FlowVis flow meter installed in pipe between pump and filter.

Click to expand...

I doubt it. A 3" to 2" bushing does not have much head loss at all. The equivalent length of 2" pipe is less than 3'. At 120 GPM, this would be less than 0.6' of head which is not much at all and would not explain a lower flow rate. How much plumbing after the bushing and before the split to the filters is there?

Lake Placid said:

They are proposing filters with a design flow rate less than what you currently have.

Click to expand...

Two filters in parallel would work just fine. They just need to be a TR100C or larger assuming the flow rate can reach specification.

Griswald said:

So you added stabilizer...with a CYA of 90.

That's a mistake, as now you need nearly 8 chlorine every day to stay balanced.

Draining is good, but don't add anything except some chlorine until you get filled and tested.

Click to expand...

My original post tells exactly what I added and when I added it. No, I did not add stabilizer after getting the level of CYA 90. In previous weeks I kept having low chlorine levels and added stabilizer. Late Saturday I drained 3/4 of water and filled it back up on Sunday,adding nothing. It wasn't crystal clear but I feel it should clear up.my levels were:
CL: 3
PH: 7.8
Alkalinity 70 ppm
And now it is Monday morning and my pool is greenish again still going to include a picture do not know what to do unless it's just a drain the whole thing.

Griswald said:

So you added stabilizer...with a CYA of 90.

That's a mistake, as now you need nearly 8 chlorine every day to stay balanced.

Draining is good, but don't add anything except some chlorine until you get filled and tested.

Click to expand...

If your pool becomes too hot during the day, as it does down here in Florida, sometimes, it will come on at night and the solar panels will then let the heat out. My old system was a Hayward. And it worked fantastic.

PARTS & ACCESSORIES

• 34-306A Bronze Anchor, Complete

• 8-415A Gibraltar Wedge Retrofit Kit.

There is no need to raise it to 350, 250 is just fine.

I would test your fill water for TA and CH.

5901,

I do not see anything obvious..

I assume you have a spa...

Have you tried the Spa mode? Sucking from the spa and returning to the spa..

Since you close your Pool/Spa, is it possible that you have not removed all the winter plugs?

If this were my pool, I'd probably open the union right after the MPV output and confirm if I had good water flow there or not..

What happens to the pump when in the Pool mode? If the pump appears to be running ok, the water has to be going somewhere...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thank you I’ll try this tonight when I get home! I’d agree I have always required some acid each week to keep my PH in check.

PoolStored said:

Nooooooooooooooo!

Your FC is too low for your CYA. You need to be near the top of the range when you test. If you have to dose higher than range, so you are in range when you test, do that. Always follow this. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

250 is just fine for CH.
However, something is not right with your test.
Print the CH instruction below out, and follow it. Make sure you are using the correct reagents:

Calcium Hardness

A drop-based test that measures the hardness in your water. Once measured, it is used … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

I tested CH again (twice) and it came out to 225 this time. So I'm going to buy some Calcium Chloride and get that up to around 300.

How about a spa drain suggestion? Anyone have a favorite for a pool/spillover spa combo with a separate jet pump line? Will a dual port channel drain with the sump 200+gpm?

Jimrahbe said:

L,

Looking at your first pics with the red valves.. And.. assuming it is plumbed like the diagram...

The upper 3 valves going into your pump are....
The red valve on the left is controlling water coming from your two skimmers.
The red valve in the middle is controlling water coming from what I 'assume' is your pool cleaner..
The red valve on the right is controlling water coming from your bottom drain (sump)..

The lower red valve, that is next to the surge protector, is for controlling the water going back into the pool.. This valve should always be fully open in normally operation.

Right now your skimmer valve is set to shut off about 50% of the water coming from the skimmers.. We normally run with this valve fully open.

Do you have some kind of cleaner connected to the diagram #12??

Having the bottom drain shut off is not a big deal...

Please tell me what problem you are trying to solve by adjusting the valves..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

So the power from the jets weakened today and the gauge started to go into the yellow sometimes was worried there was a problem

Specifications: Tubing: 1.625" OD. Wall Thickness: .049". Type 304 or 316L Marine Grade* (add - MG to part number).

Part Number(s): RRH-100, RRH-100B

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100/Pro or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

cthenrys said:

Can you double up the comm wires

Click to expand...

You can. or use a pigtail to combine the wires.

So you added stabilizer...with a CYA of 90.

That's a mistake, as now you need nearly 8 chlorine every day to stay balanced.

Draining is good, but don't add anything except some chlorine until you get filled and tested.

Try…

Sure do……What’s is different about the screen?

L,

Looking at your first pics with the red valves.. And.. assuming it is plumbed like the diagram...

The upper 3 valves going into your pump are....
The red valve on the left is controlling water coming from your two skimmers.
The red valve in the middle is controlling water coming from what I 'assume' is your pool cleaner..
The red valve on the right is controlling water coming from your bottom drain (sump)..

The lower red valve, that is next to the surge protector, is for controlling the water going back into the pool.. This valve should always be fully open in normally operation.

Right now your skimmer valve is set to shut off about 50% of the water coming from the skimmers.. We normally run with this valve fully open.

Do you have some kind of cleaner connected to the diagram #12??

Having the bottom drain shut off is not a big deal...

Please tell me what problem you are trying to solve by adjusting the valves..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Can he recognize the difference in traffic lights between red and green lights?