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Seeking Advice on Pentair Pool Heater Issues

A
Thank you for the responses.

I had the neighbor's pool company take a look at the heater, and they didn't find anything wrong. However, they didn't perform a deep inspection—just turned it on a couple of times, and it seemed fine. Since then, I've fired it up 5 or 6 times without any issues or "backfiring." I've also ensured that none of the other appliances in the house were using the gas lines, thinking that pressure might be a factor. Most of the time, I run the pool heater during cooler months when the furnaces are on in the house.

I'd like to have someone come out for a more thorough inspection. Is there anything else I should check on my end before calling a professional? I'm comfortable handling the pool chemistry a few times a week, but the heater's internals are beyond my expertise. What's the best way to find a reputable repair technician, or does anyone have any recommendations in my area?
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Converting to salt

dereksanders
Newdude said:
Read up and ask away : Pool Care Basics
Download : PoolMath
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?
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www.troublefreepool.com

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Cartridge Filter Cleaning stands?

Dirk
I have since modified the modification of my modified cleaning station. I found that the height it holds my cartridges is good for part of the cartridge, but too low for the rest. So I made the height adjustable (low and high). I wrote about it here:

What did you do to your pool today?

Frogs are one thing I never get, and we have loads of tree frogs around here. Japanese beetles are my insect of choice apparently. I have never had a frog in my pool until this year! Now I’m pulling out 2 or 3 a day from the skimmer. Its those long legged jokers too!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

cartridge stand 8.jpg
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cartridge stand 8.jpg

Dirk
cartridge stand 8.jpg

24/7 sceduling help

ajw22
HiDustin said:
I just can't determine the process or location of the settings. Maybe I just need to go directly to the Intellicenter panel?
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Do you have the IntelliCenter installed in your pool?

Put that with your VS pump model in your signature.

Look under your VS pump speed settings at the circuits listed. You should have a circuit named UltraTemp for your heat pump. You assign a speed to the heat pump circuit. If the speed is greater then current speed the pump speed will be increased when the IntelliCenter calls for heat.
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24/7 sceduling help

H
Bperry said:
If your heater is set to turn on at 6am, then it would seem unnecessary to have an if/else decision fork. If you tell the heater to come on, it’ll be on and so you can set your pump speed to match.
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Hey @Bperry thanks for chiming in. Thats what I thought at first, but I have not been able to figure out how to assign a pump speed to just the heater. I felt like I had more options before pentair pushed out their new Pentair Home app.

I agree, with what you said, just set the pool circuit to 1200 and then run just the one schedule to turn on the heater. I just can't determine the process or location of the settings. Maybe I just need to go directly to the Intellicenter panel?


Jimrahbe said:
Dustin,

What specific VS pump is at your in-law;s house??

Do they currently have any type of automation system??

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Aloha Jim, appreciate your reply as well. The in-laws live with me, so everything in my profile is accurate. Full pentair setup, but look at that its missing details for the VSP. It's an intelliflow VSP I will have to take a closer look and add it to my profile later tonight when I get home from the office!

Again big thanks for the replies!
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Waterway Oasis blowing fuses

wireform
Option said:
Done! Thanks again for your help with this. I've just got to get the GCFI breaker installed now and then I should be good to go.

On a side note, I noticed that the filter pump relay is always on. I asked Waterway and they said that was normal because I have a variable speed pump which always needs power. My booster pump is powered from the load sides of the filter pump relay and I had thought this prevented the booster from running without the filter pump but now I see that is not the case (since the load sides of the filter relay are always powered). In this scenairio, is there any feasible way to ensure the booster pump only runs when the filter pump is running?
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See THIS thread
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Converting to salt

B
If you open your pool a little earlier and close a little later, you likely won’t have to green swampy mess every year. The good rule of thumb. is to close it when the water temperature is below 60 and open it up when the temperature reaches 60. If you do that There’s a good chance you’ll have a very easy opening. 20 gallons of chlorine can do a lot of damage all at once.
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24/7 sceduling help

setsailsoon
ajw22 said:
Chris, all heaters use 24 volt control circuits. You get into the wiring on the 24 volt control side of a heater and not the 240 voltage side.
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Allen, yep I'm aware of that but I only added the caution because once the heater is open they are much closer to 240 v than previously. Didn't mean to imply the call for heat was 240v. Extra cautious but seems like the right approach and I could have been more clear. Thanks for your help.
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C
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pool robots - what is the best solution?

Jimrahbe
PQ,

A lot depends on you...

What type of cleaner do you consider a 'robot'?

What do you expect the cleaner to do?

See this thread.

New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

About a month ago I needed a new robot pool cleaner and I contacted Margaret at Marina Pool and Spa. My initial goal was to buy another S200 "style" robot as I have been happy with them so far. Margaret suggested that I might want to look at a new line of robot cleaners that Marina is now...
www.google.com www.google.com

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Converting to salt

Newdude
lbc1965 said:
Pentair says to mount vertical. You mention upflow and to mount it “up” but then you say horizontal. Horizontal or vertical??
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Either. But if vertical, it needs to go up, not down.
lbc1965 said:
When I open the pool after 8 months covered/stagnant it is murky green
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It needs a SLAM Process. (<--- click blue links)

Without confirmation tests you got it all, anything else is dump and pray. Algae is microscopic and by the time you see it, it's waaaaaaaay to late. If any remains which hasn't grown exponentially to the point of being seen, it can plague you all season.
lbc1965 said:
The pump is capable of 140 gpm so that is why I was looking at a bypass loop
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ICs are designed to work with all pool pumps.
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Jandy pump won’t turn on

1
Capnswab said:
Pool isn’t even 1 year old. Called in a noisy Aqualink transformer to the builder, and they said they wanted to send a PM out first before calling in the warranty part. He came out yesterday. Opened up the panel and he started poking around. Everything out there turned off, no lights on the Aqualink panel. He left and said he’d call it in since the pool was basically dead. Once he left, I opened up the panel and noticed the 3.15amp fuse was blown. Ordered replacements that got here this morning, popped a new one in, panel turned back on and now I have lights at the panel, but the pump won’t turn on. Shows it’s in pool mode now.

Checked the transformer with my multimeter, and I’m getting 26 volts. Pulled the access panel off the back of the pump and with the non-contact volt meter, I got beeps so it should be getting power. I’m able to turn the pool lights on and off via the Aqualink app, so it would appear that all is well there. Unsure of what I can try next to see if I can get the pump running again. Let me know what else is needed and I can add whatever details from here.

All of this is powered from the main electrical panel on the side of the house, that goes to a sub panel out at the pool. I’ve turned the “filter pump” on and off several times just to see if that would do anything, and nothing different happens.
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Do you have power at the pump itself? Is the RS485 (red) connector at the Jandy panel still in place or any of the wires come loose?
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Converting to salt

L
Thank you for your input! When I open the pool after 8 months covered/stagnant it is murky green….12” visibility that is why I dump so much chlorine. Is this wrong??
Pentair says to mount vertical. You mention upflow and to mount it “up” but then you say horizontal. Horizontal or vertical??
I run the pump 24/7 but most of the time at low rpm, just enough to keep the skimmers going. The pump is capable of 140 gpm so that is why I was looking at a bypass loop. I have not been able to get a direct answer to rpm vs bpm.
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Hayward Tristar 900 replacement

1
iceorphen said:
I bought a house recently, and one of the pool pumps (for the negative edge) started grinding and has now died, its out of warranty. I've been browsing the forums and have seen that a good replacement motor is the Neptune brand, and they are waaay less money for just the motor. Most companies are asking for like 2500- for an install of a new hayward which I can do myself if it comes to it. Can anyone direct me to the proper Neptune replacement motor for this pump (and any parts I might need to swap)? I'm also wondering if it can be tied into my controller which is an omnilogic, or if I will have to program it on the motor itself and just keep it separate. Not the most pool savvy, yet. Pics attached, its the rightmost pump in this pic.

ty in advance!
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The Nidec Neptune NPTQ225 is the correct motor. The OEM Go Kit is SPXHKIT100 (shaft seal, gasket, O rings).
The motor will have to be controlled through a relay. Using the relay now used for the waterfall, a speed can be set on the motor and will operate at that speed when the relay is actuated. The wiring for that is in the manual

​

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Epoxy paint for fiberglass stairs?

B
Jeff Lebowski said:
Why Poly? I always thought that epoxy was the superior product. Particularly when used overtop of Poly.
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I mean the marine putty epoxy isn’t all that great and neither is epoxy “paint”. They make epoxy repair resins for fiberglass that’s likely ok. You need something that’ll wet through the fibers and not just sit on top of them. That’s all assuming you remove any release agents/wax, from the bonding surface before coating it with anything.
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Waterway Oasis blowing fuses

Option
ajw22 said:
You can power the Stenner and the panel.

Connect the panel wire to the LINE side of the Stenner relay to pickoff the power from the same CB.
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Done! Thanks again for your help with this. I've just got to get the GCFI breaker installed now and then I should be good to go.

On a side note, I noticed that the filter pump relay is always on. I asked Waterway and they said that was normal because I have a variable speed pump which always needs power. My booster pump is powered from the load sides of the filter pump relay and I had thought this prevented the booster from running without the filter pump but now I see that is not the case (since the load sides of the filter relay are always powered). In this scenairio, is there any feasible way to ensure the booster pump only runs when the filter pump is running?
Click to expand...

IMG_5917.jpeg

C
IMG_5917.jpeg

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Jandy pump won’t turn on

C
Pool isn’t even 1 year old. Called in a noisy Aqualink transformer to the builder, and they said they wanted to send a PM out first before calling in the warranty part. He came out yesterday. Opened up the panel and he started poking around. Everything out there turned off, no lights on the Aqualink panel. He left and said he’d call it in since the pool was basically dead. Once he left, I opened up the panel and noticed the 3.15amp fuse was blown. Ordered replacements that got here this morning, popped a new one in, panel turned back on and now I have lights at the panel, but the pump won’t turn on. Shows it’s in pool mode now.

Checked the transformer with my multimeter, and I’m getting 26 volts. Pulled the access panel off the back of the pump and with the non-contact volt meter, I got beeps so it should be getting power. I’m able to turn the pool lights on and off via the Aqualink app, so it would appear that all is well there. Unsure of what I can try next to see if I can get the pump running again. Let me know what else is needed and I can add whatever details from here.

All of this is powered from the main electrical panel on the side of the house, that goes to a sub panel out at the pool. I’ve turned the “filter pump” on and off several times just to see if that would do anything, and nothing different happens.
Click to expand...

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