JamesW said:

View attachment 630113

Are the S1 and S2 measurements from S1 to Ground and from S2 to ground?

What was the voltage from S1 to S2?

The DC voltage should be 2 to 7 volts.

Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC.

For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA.

Are you sure about the readings?

Measure before call for heat, during the 20 second ignitor heating phase and during heater operation.

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You said check AC voltage S1 to ground and S2 to ground so those readings are AC. I did not check S1 to S2.

Do you want me to check S1 to S2 in DC or AC?

It just heated my 1,000 gallon spa from 70 to 100 in 45 minutes. Is that good?

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AmberCrest said:

I might start a new separate thread on this directly related question but might as well kick it off here as it seems I'm suddenly in a serious time crunch.

I'm currently out of town and heard from my better half today that the Aqualink system seems to have forgotten it's time schedule. When set to Auto, it does not automatically power the pump on. In Service mode the pump can still be turned on.
As background, I set it to Service mode late last week as the Atlanta area was again going well under freezing and we already had one break this winter (possibly two). The system was running during the day and only doing freeze protect at night. At 14 degrees, that was evidently not enough.
We got past the hard freeze but now Auto seems to not do anything. With no control panel we're kind of stuck so time to pull the trigger.

The question - What is the story with buying the IQ30-RS kit online?
Most places seem to be carrying it for around $1200-$1400 but a lot of what I think are the 'more reputable' places imply or specifically say the kit is not available to purchase on-line due to manufacture restriction. For example, the InYo site states: "PER THE MANUFACTURER: THIS ITEM IS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE ONLINE"

There are a few places that list it for less, $1050-$1100 and while they will sell it, two of the three also seem to imply that the item is only for "pro" pool service purchase.
I've not called yet but marina pool spa and patio is seems to have it for $1000...

Thanks!

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I have purchased from Polytec Pools some Jandy items. Call them, and they will tell you to either order online or order on the phone (like be there in person).

I purchased my iQ30-RS kit from a local Pinch a Penny pool store. I purchase liquid chlorine and salt consistently from them, plus I had previously purchased my Pentair VS pump that was on a big sale at their store. They were willing to give me a good price for the iQ30-RS and I paid an extra $150 for installation. This was nearly 4 years ago so not sure about current prices.
Sometimes it may be worth it to pay the local price vs the risk of unknown from online dealers. Just an option for consideration.

start yourself a for-sale thread for that pi over in the "coffee bar" forum!

Which voltage setting did you use?

LoZ stands for Low Impedance (Z).

This feature presents a low impedance input to the circuit under test.

This reduces the possibility of false readings due to ghost voltages and improves accuracy when testing to determine absence or presence of voltage.

Most digital multimeters available today have an input impedance that's high enough to show the capacitively coupled voltage, giving a false impression of a live conductor.

The meter is actually measuring voltage coupled into the disconnected conductor.

However, these voltages, at times, can be 80-85% of what the "hard" voltage should be.

Set the skimmers (note that it's plural) to benefit from the prevailing winds so that debris actually gets to the skimmers. Make plans for shade. I wish I had accommodated a shade sail. Give yourself plenty of room around the equipment pad so you can work on the various parts. Put in an auto fill for sure, with soft water to it if possible or if needed in your area. +10 on the SWG chlorine generator. And get yourself a TFPro testing kit before the pool is finished because the kit the builder will give you is wimpy and you do not want to be visiting any pool stores to get sucked into their business plan.

JJ_Tex said:

At $500+ a pop

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Pun intended ?

Are the S1 and S2 measurements from S1 to Ground and from S2 to ground?

What was the voltage from S1 to S2?

The DC voltage should be 2 to 7 volts.

Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC.

For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA.

Are you sure about the readings?

Measure before call for heat, during the 20 second ignitor heating phase and during heater operation.

Here is my next pool list:

• 2nd skimmer
• I would research lights better and not sure I would have gone with my fancy color changing LED lights since 3 of the 4 had to be replaced under warranty. At $500+ a pop, I'm almost scared to use them now.
• That landscaping I didn't do during the build because I was tired of spending $ and could do it myself, still has not been done 4 years later.

@stevepoint
Thank you so much for this thread! I know it's been a while, but I hope you still check in occasionally! I am currently building a pool and I have this exact issue and I'd like to follow your method, because it turned out great! I am trying to understand some details about the aluminum trays. Is each tray independent, or are they welded together? If they are separate trays, then each tray sits on its own bracket, right? Hypothetically, if you made a bigger tray, you could have more coping tiles per bracket, but then they might be too heavy to lift?

Does anyone currently visiting TFP have any thoughts/ideas ?

JamesW said:

Undo these 2 unions and see if the check valve flap is ok.

View attachment 630041

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Ok, new day and less problems. I'm not sure what happened overnight but it's now back to igniting and cycling. Interesting thing is I timed the cycles and they started getting longer and longer before cutting off. I took the measurements you requested the best I could. See attached picture of everything written down.
Two questions..
1) Is there anywhere to check the exit temperature to see if that is whats causing it shut down?
2) It does heat my spa from 70 - 95 degrees in about 45 minutes even with the cycling. Is the cycling causing more propane to be used or it just a matter of taking a little longer to heat the spa as opposed to if it were running constantly?

Perhaps the final update for this thread. Although I cant say why, or 100% for certain, the screenlogic adapters seem to have somehow been causing the problem. I disconnected the screenlogic for a few days and did not notice any phantom starts on the pump. Then I shut everything down on the screenlogic and rechecked all the wiring and connections, I brought it back up a week ago and haven't had any phantom starts that I've noticed since then. I've been sleeping with the door open for a few nights and typically within a week I would have experienced the issue several times by now. Unless something changes, I'll call this one resolved. Anybody want to buy a Raspberry PI fully configured ?

Look up Arizona Bead Blasting. Mark White is (or was) the owner and they do kierserite blasting.

Welcome to TFP!!!

Great place to start:

Don't put in floor drains. They are no longer needed with modern pools. You risk plumbing failures under the pool, tripping up your automatic cleaner, stubbing toes and they are just plain ugly.

Plan for extra electrical conduit around the pool and yard, so you can later run wires (more outlets, landscape lighting, ethernet, speaker wire, etc). You don't have to run the wires, just two or three runs of empty conduit you can later pull wires through. Once the deck goes down, this option will not be available. You need more than one, because you can't run both low and high voltage in the same conduit.

Run a few drip lines around the back of the pool before the deck goes in.

Same for water. You'll appreciate having a hose bib or two behind the pool.

Home-run each skimmer and every return with its own dedicated pipes back to the pad. Don't let them connect all your returns underground to one line, same for skimmers.

Home-run each light back to the pad, too. You can connect them together there, if you want to, or have each on it's own switch, to give you more lighting options.

Try to avoid pointing lights directly at the house or at areas you will most likely spend your time at night. You don't want the lights shining in your eyes or windows. This is another reason to have lights on their own circuits, because if you have to have a light pointing at you, you could turn that one off and turn the away-facing lights on, when you just want some ambient pool lighting.

Even if you plan on using a robot, run a dedicated vacuum pipe to the pool. It can be ignored, or later used for either a suction or pressure vac, in case you later decide to use one. It can also be used for manual vacuuming, or even another return in case you lose one. That line should be at least 1.5" PVC, with sweep elbows (so crud won't get stuck in tight elbows.

Be prepared for push back from the builder over some or all of the above. They like to build what they know, and not deviate. But it's your pool and make sure you get what you want, not what THEY want.

Details matter. Even the small stuff that no one sees. I have looked back at my build photos over the years and thought, “man, if I could just redo …. again”. Pay attention to the plumbing layout. Make everything as accessible as possible without burying stuff under hardscape or placed in impossible to reach spots. Stuff breaks and fails and you need to be able to fix it without having to call in an excavator every time. Make sure your equipment pad (again, something no guests will ever see or care about) is accessible and easy to work on as well as protected from the elements. Don’t underestimate the need for automation … doesn’t have to be complicated and fancy but as long as you can rely on it to turn things on and off as-scheduled/as-needed, then you make everyone else’s time living with this pool easier. If the pool requires you to be there with some super secret notebook of switches and valves to turn, then you’re doing it wrong. Any idiot should be able to walk up to your pool equipment and know exactly how to use it first-try.