wireform said:

Nobody has brought this up so I will. You can benefit big time from a SWCG (salt water cell generator) pool which would be a game changer on your part.

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Thanks, I am going to look into it.

All loose Shotcrete should be removed and the shell should be power washed prior to plaster application.

wireform said:

Motor looks new and there's the wet spot to go along with it.

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Confession is good for the soul.

ajw22 said:

Maybe we will get the rest of the story.

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Motor looks new and there's the wet spot to go along with it.

Check the diagnostic LED on the Fenwal. A yellow wire is in front of it as you swept the camera past it.

Have you checked your gas pressures using a manometer?

Hi, welcome. We'll wait for someone to chime in here. Just one item of note, I went into your pm logs and your FC is skirting danger being so low. Target range for 40 CYA 5-7 PPM . At this point I'd recommend
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure nothing algae wise is brewing yet eventhough you don’t see it yet.

Installed new booster motor and seems I didn't pay attention to my hoses on reassemble. Lol wow

JamesW said:

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The following are the LEDs:

1. .....PS (Pressure Switch)
2. .....HLS (High Limit Switch)
3. .....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
4. .....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
5. .....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
6. .....Service System
7. .....Thermistor
8. .....Heating
9. .....Pool On
10. ...Spa On
11. ...Service Heater.

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Here is a video I just took and there are no lights on the board when it cycles off.. just the heat light flashing Login to view embedded media

JoyfulNoise said:

You can try the Wet & Forget and see if it helps. No harm in doing that. But I have see this all before and I’d bet a box of donuts that it won’t work.

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Wet & Forget does not have eggs in it and is probably less cost than the donuts.

I about fell out my chair laughing. Problem solved ty.

ajw22 said:

That deals with flame sensing problems. Read Heater Flame Sensing - Further Reading

How much corrosion is in the heater?

Show us pictures of the heater internals around the electrical box and igniter.

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I really appreciate your help. I just went outside and made a video showing internals and how its cycling. Here is the youtube link Login to view embedded media

wireform said:

Good catch

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Maybe we will get the rest of the story.

Peachtree21 said:

Thank you. I did have it sealed right after install of that makes any difference.

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Good to know. The other possibility is that the sealer is breaking down and causing some of the chalkiness you see.

Sealers really only work if the entirety of the stone is sealed before it is installed and then a sealer (usually a high quality penetrating sealer) is applied every year or so. The gunite bond beam also needs waterproofing before anything is attached to it (tile, coping, etc). Unfortunately this is a fight against Mother Nature and laws of physics and chemistry … no one ever wins that fight.

You can try the Wet & Forget and see if it helps. No harm in doing that. But I have see this all before and I’d bet a box of donuts that it won’t work.

ajw22 said:

The booster pump hoses are reversed.

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Good catch

Stick around here for anything pool related as the pool store and internet will and can have you ill advised.

Jerry,

Sounds like things are really coming together for you...

I suggest that you run your pump 24/7... this will allow you to make a little chlorine all the time and skim all the time... With a heater, your slowest speed will be about 1500 or so.. You won't be able to tell for sure, until you get your SWCG back in.. You should run your pump however you want, but I'm going to show you how things work, based on a 24 hour schedule.. You can just adjust it to what you want. The rpms are just an example...

Pool... 8 am until 8 am.. (This means the system will be in the pool mode 24/7) Does not mean you can't switch the spa on whenever you want. You want your salt cell to be on anytime the pump is running.. The cell will only be on if you are in the Pool mode or the Spa mode.. Pump runs at 1500 rpm (whatever you set for pool) No matter how long you run per day, you want the Pool circuit to be scheduled to be on the entire time..

Spillover... 9am until 9:30 am - pump increases speed to 2500 rpm until 9:30, when spillover shuts off and the system goes back to the Pool speed.

Use feature circuit to increase your pump speed to say 3000 for IFCS to work.. Call it "IFCS" You can call it anything you like, it is just the name you use.

ICFS... 4 pm until 6 pm... Pump will increase speed to 3000 rpm and then go back to the pool speed at 6 pm.. You can adjust this time so that the system cleans like it should and cycles through all the heads.. Personally, I'd run the IFCS when your electrical rates are the lowest...

Spillover 9 pm until 9:30 pm... Pump ramps up to 2500 until 9:30 pm when it goes back to pool speed.

You decide to use the spa.. just push the spa button.. the valves will move putting the system into the Spa mode.. the main pump will ramp us to 3540 until you turn off the spa.

The key to this whole sequence is that when the pump sees 2 or more speed inputs, it will only run the fastest one..


You can also make up other Feature circuits to make up more speeds if need.. As an example.. my wife and I like to just use our floats in the pool... this works best if there is a little lazy river action to the water.. So I have speed that we use to make the water in the pool swirl like a giant flushing toilet bowl.. I used to have a speed to help with skimming, but no longer use it, as my SWCG speed skims as well as turns my salt cell on.

Looks like things are coming along quite well...

If you want me, just 'call' me by adding an @ in front of my screen name,, Like this @Jimrahbe

Good luck with your project..

Jim R.

Nobody has brought this up so I will. You can benefit big time from a SWCG (salt water cell generator) pool which would be a game changer on your part.

Welcome to TFP.

The booster pump hoses are reversed.

Water goes into the booster pump at the front and then is pushed into the pool through the top pipe.

JackthesE said:

And it turns out the acid vapors were, indeed, fatal to my exposed sensor setup: after only one day inside the tank, every metallic surface including solder joints had a green or gray patina, and the sensor had failed electrically. So I knew I had to have a hermetic enclosure for the sensor, and I needed to find a transparent window material as part of the solution.

So I had another sensor, and my next step was to see if any transparent material I had on hand would allow the sensor to work correctly. Short answer is no. So far I've looked at 3mm acrylic, 3mm glass, 0.4mm plastic of some sort, and Costco shrink wrap. The two thicker materials both failed miserably. The 0.4mm plastic looked a little better, but had severe non-linear behavior under 100mm distance and beyond that distance it did not function. The shrink wrap allowed the sensor to work just fine, but it's hardly durable enough to be used for the purpose. So my conclusion so far is that using the VL53LO optical sensor is simply not going to work.

For completeness, I thought I'd mention a couple of other options that I considered earlier and discarded:
(1) I thought about measuring the weight of the entire tank, acid and all, using a set of load cells and an HX711 electronics chip, commonly used in bathroom scales. I had such a sensor set from a previous hobby project. I discarded this path because my acid tank is bolted to a slab of concrete (this is earthquake country, after all!).
(2) I made an "acid displacement probe" out of an 18" piece of sprinkler pipe, empty and sealed at both ends. I attached a vertical load cell to measure the net of the probe weight and the buoyancy force (equal to the weight of the displaced acid at any given immersion level). This rig worked OK in my pool water, but, again, the load cell is made out of aluminum and its sensing elements are electrical strain gauges, so putting that inside the tank would fail for the same reasons that the VL53LO did.
(3) I thought about putting a magnet on a float, constrained within a sprinkler pipe mounted inside the tank. The magnet's vertical position could be detected by one or more reed switches on the outside of the tank. While I think this could be made to work, it would only provide a coarse resolution of the acid level at best. Perhaps that's good enough to trigger a text message to refill the holding tank.

So I'm up for any other ideas you all might have. I've enjoyed this project along the way, and I really enjoyed the interaction with a knowledgeable group of folks. Thanks for that...Jack

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I know this thread is 3 years old, but for those that want to measure the liquid level in the tank with an external sensor to avoid corrosion, Mopeka has bluetooth ultrasonic sensors you just stick to the bottom of the tank. They are made for measuring liquid levels in all types of tanks. Look for the Mopeka Universal Pro for non-steel tanks. It works with an app on your phone and can do alerts.
If you want to build your own and connect it to an arduino, I suggest finding an ultrasonic kit that can so something similar.

JamesW said:

View attachment 629739

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View attachment 629740


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Thanks for this. They must have glued them in or something unfortunately they are not turning the whole fixture with the tool. All the tool did was unscrew the clear cover on the front of it. I’m really bummed that they installed these cheap lights in my brand new very expensive pool.

mm3621 said:

I added 1 gal of chlorine based on PoolMath calculations and I got FC to 6 ppm, perfectly in the 5-7ppm range recommended for CYA of 40ppm

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This comment gets it's own response to hammer it home.

*you* are suggesting that with lower daily loss right now, that 6ppm will make it to the next test while remaining free and clear above min FC. The chart doesn't know the point in the season or your recent loss.

*you* will adjust your target regardless of what the chart says.

*you* will not blink if you have to go above 'target level' to achieve the mission.

And well done.

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like I'm fine. Just didn't know for sure what the reasoning was about the deep water reasoning, if it had to do with the slope or what. Too much strange info on pools on the internet.

+1 to readings high or low. They read as barely out of range and may be very out of range.

always raise/lower by 0.4 at a time, mix well for 15 mins, retest, repeat dose if necessary.

I read this 1000 times but it never clicked until we moved and inherited a tab pool with a bottomed out Ph. On dose 4 or 5, I got it. The 5point whatever Ph only *looked* like 6.8. Each dose got closer to reading on the scale but it took some tries.