ParrishGuy said:

Would that thermistor showing low ohms cause short cycling?

Click to expand...

The heater should read a high water temperature and not run at all.

Is the water temperature correct on the heater display?

I would Tee off the current hose bib for the second hose bib. That way it's not on the vacuum breaker side at all and it would still be copper.

There are various heater control connections that can be used.

Show me this screen from your system.

ajw22 said:

The original post read like he was trying to understand the IntelliCenter prior to installing it.

Click to expand...

Web programmer in a former life, so my brain functions in If this then thats, else this or that! LOL

It's a blessing and a curse.

ajw22 said:

That is the 10K temperature sensor and should read more than 9 ohms.

Temperature Sensors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

Would that thermistor showing low ohms cause short cycling?

Photos will need to be provided. Is this PebbleTec?

Thanks @setsailsoon & @ajw22, I will get that signature updated soon with the VSP model.

@ajw22 I am not sure, but I think my equipment installer took a different approach with the integration setup. I do see that adding a new circuit under the VSP settings there is the Ultratemp option. I will add it and test tonight.

However, does it matter that under heater settings I see an item for gas heater and not ultra temp? Like I said maybe my installer used an uncommon integration method…

Hard to read that label but it looks like the gas meter is undersized. Contact your gas company to confirm and determine what the process is to upgrade the gas service.

Welcome to TFP.

There is no way for us to judge what you are seeing and feeling to comment.

You need to see how loose the scale is.

Read about how plaster is polished in Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

He are the pictures of the gas meter.

Option said:

Oh wow, that's super helpful.

Oh wow, that's super helpful. Didn't know something like that existed.

Looking over the various threads on that topic, it seems they're all for 120V SWC but if I'm understanding correctly, this diagram should work for my 240V booster pump?

View attachment 630003

Click to expand...

That diagram is dangerous leaving L1 always hot. Someone working on the pump may assume with the pump not running there is no power to the wires.

The NEC states both legs of a 240 volt circuit must be switched together.

Thanks for the help everyone. Fixed this today in 20 minutes and only cost about $10. Still waiting for it to blow up but seems to be doing well so far

ParrishGuy said:

The sensor you see in the picture had some corrosion but ohm'd at 9.0, I cleaned it up w some sand paper.

Click to expand...

That is the 10K temperature sensor and should read more than 9 ohms.

Oh wow, that's super helpful.

wireform said:

See THIS thread

Click to expand...

Oh wow, that's super helpful. Didn't know something like that existed.

Looking over the various threads on that topic, it seems they're all for 120V SWC but if I'm understanding correctly, this diagram should work for my 230V booster pump?

Jeff Lebowski said:

Suggestions? I am wide open to the best option. Cutting tiny pieces of glass fiber and then stippling each for a few dozen holes seems like torture. I used JB weld once to repair a cracked exhaust manifold on a salt water boat. Lasted a decade. Might still be there, I sold it. So, that was a great application. Just the wrong color.

Click to expand...

A fiberglass repair epoxy that isn’t putty would be what I’d try.

setsailsoon said:

He mentioned the Intellicenter app so I now see that's how Jim realized he has it...

Click to expand...

He mentioned the Pentair Home app. Intelliflo3 pump and other Pentair devices all use the same app now.

The original post read like he was trying to understand the IntelliCenter prior to installing it.

ParrishGuy said:

I'm thinking that bypass/check valve may be causing back pressure not letting enough flow like you suggested

Click to expand...

If it's not broken it's good. The thermal regulator should be checked.

Good morning, everyone.

Thanks for such a strong response to my post. I really appreciate the willingness of this community to share their expertise and experiences. Let me summarize all your replies here for my benefit as well as for the benefit of a future reader.

The consensus seems to be that salt water pools may have a pH that naturally wants to balance at 8.0. And so long as the CSI is well-controlled, there’s no reason to fight for a slightly lower pH. After all, a pH of 8.0 is perfectly acceptable in the TFP methodology. While a pH of 7.6 or 7.8 may be considered “ideal”, it’s not worth stressing over. If one has decided to operate a pool at a higher pH, a pH meter may be useful in verifying the results of the color test as the color test can be difficult to interpret at higher levels. However, one should make sure the pH meter is calibrated.

It was also stated via a link to a different thread that new plaster may cause pH to rise higher for 6-18 months after construction.

Regarding question about the TA of my fill water, it’s about 20.

Thanks again for all the help.

bP

JamesW said:

That is 12 psi, which is too much.

Pentair lists Heater Head Loss as about 7 feet, which is 3 psi.

View attachment 629947

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/manuals/training/Sta-Rite%20Basic%20Training%20Manual.pdf

View attachment 629948
View attachment 629949

Click to expand...

Alright so here is the latest today. The internal bypass was in perfect condition. The sensor you see in the picture had some corrosion but ohm'd at 9.0, I cleaned it up w some sand paper. I took a hose at full pressure and put in each one of the holes in the manifold and they all flowed out the other side perfect with no obstructions. I'm thinking that bypass/check valve may be causing back pressure not letting enough flow like you suggested. Do you have any ideas on placing an open piece of pipe in its place for testing purposes? See attached pictures..

ajw22 said:

Do you have the IntelliCenter installed in your pool?

Put that with your VS pump model in your signature.

Look under your VS pump speed settings at the circuits listed. You should have a circuit named UltraTemp for your heat pump. You assign a speed to the heat pump circuit. If the speed is greater then current speed the pump speed will be increased when the IntelliCenter calls for heat.

Click to expand...

He mentioned the Intellicenter app so I now see that's how Jim realized he has it... I didn't see that and would be good if he could put all the details in his signature. @HiDustin , would be helpful if you could do this and let us know if you need any help updating it. Welcome aboard and great that our experts are helping out already!

Among the qualities he possess he has to be proficient in gas valve adjustments to be sure. You need to have enough gas flow to the heater with everything that's hooked up and if you are short you'd need a bigger gas meter.

Show us pictures of your house gas meter with all the labels on it.

We gave seen many people have 250 BTU meters with 400 BTU heaters which limit gas flow.

Thank you for the responses.

I had the neighbor's pool company take a look at the heater, and they didn't find anything wrong. However, they didn't perform a deep inspection—just turned it on a couple of times, and it seemed fine. Since then, I've fired it up 5 or 6 times without any issues or "backfiring." I've also ensured that none of the other appliances in the house were using the gas lines, thinking that pressure might be a factor. Most of the time, I run the pool heater during cooler months when the furnaces are on in the house.

I'd like to have someone come out for a more thorough inspection. Is there anything else I should check on my end before calling a professional? I'm comfortable handling the pool chemistry a few times a week, but the heater's internals are beyond my expertise. What's the best way to find a reputable repair technician, or does anyone have any recommendations in my area?

Newdude said:

Read up and ask away : Pool Care Basics
Download : PoolMath
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?

Click to expand...