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Prep and advice for the Great Pollening 2025?

PoolStored
JoyfulNoise said:
I wouldn’t waste money on expensive skimmer socks. I have found that cheap polypropylene hairnets work just fine for pollen and allow better flow rates than the dense skimmer socks. Also, you don’t have to rinse them, just toss them once they’re loaded up and put new ones in.
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^^^This... Link--> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XK2FS0
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Pool Heater and Solar Panels

Newdude
I've had 100 people knock on my door wanting to lease me the panels they install and maintain. It's the middle of the road option between owning your own panels and not having panels.

One guy was particularly pushy when I told him if I went that route i would own them instead of leasing. He listed the reasons PoolBrews said above as to why it would be a stupid idea for me to install my own panels. So I asked the guy why they were good for him but not for me. 'Seriously Bruh. If its such a stupid idea, why are you begging to do it ? You're the 12th *you* this month'.

I got no answer and he watched the door close.
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Let’s see your water after removing winter cover!! **RESURRECTED FOR 2025!**

thefloatqueen
Newdude said:
FC, TA and Ph don't take that much mixing. Salt, calcium and CYA can need a full day to mix.

And besides, you just want to prove there is chlorine in there. A 12 reading can be off by 3 and mission accomplished either way.

The liner looks like it fared well.
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Newdude said:
FC, TA and Ph don't take that much mixing. Salt, calcium and CYA can need a full day to mix.

And besides, you just want to prove there is chlorine in there. A 12 reading can be off by 3 and mission accomplished either way.

The liner looks like it fared well.
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I did what you recommended and FC was 11.0ppm with 0.0ppm CC. That was right after mixing up a bunch of dirt and whatnot, so I don’t know if that will make FC test lower or not (still no CC and water is crystal clear). TA was exactly what it was at closing. Didn’t test the pH since FC was too high. Everything else I’ll test when I get the equipment hooked up and it gets to mix for over 24 hrs.
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Clean and Clear Filter Top - Won't Seat

f3justusc
I just installed a new Pentair Clean and Clear 150 to replace my 100. I cannot, even with an assistant, get the top to seat on the housing. We can get it on about 3/4 but then it will slip off on another side. Lots of lube, even tried reusing the o ring from the previous filter. I would appreciate any tricks that will get this top on this filter so I can get back to relaxing. TYIA. BTW, I know it will go on because it was fully seated when I took it out of the box.
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Prep and advice for the Great Pollening 2025?

toddclare
Didn’t specifically know that about the Main drains but also great to know. Higher rpm mixing makes sense too!

I’m also prepping for screened in porch defense. Too much screen to cover so I set up fans in the door to outside and put the pollen up in the air with a leaf blower (and goggles and a particle respirator) Doesn’t get it all but prevents the 1/4” (yes I measured) accumulation we got one week when we were out of town. Pollen can get in eitby he wind but doesn’t have enough oomph to get back out.
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I think I can, I think I can…

VinnyinNJ
MN-CJ said:
If you are not set on a retaining block wall, I would recommend using treated 4x6 timbers, rebar, and ground cloth down first. I had a slope I needed to deal with. Once I got the blocks level, it ended up being 3 timbers high and stepped down from there. You can buy precut rebar at Home Depot (or Menards or Lowes I believe) or you can get a cheap angle grinder from Harbor Freight and make your own lengths. I used 3/4 inch and had it probably 1.5 feet below the bottom of the timber I was pounding it in....I'm in MN and our area is all sand too but also the ground freezes. Mine has not moved (knock on wood) since 2017.

I have 2" foam under my pool. Since mine is 30ft round, I ran mine out to the retaining wall so they could not shift. I used Gorilla ducktape for all the foam seams and staggered the joints (think like a brick wall.) What happens when you have 105 tons or so of water on top is it indents in no matter how tight and with the ducktape but....it makes it easy to vacuum dirt out as the dirt just goes in those straight lines. Tradeoffs.

Already covered is the top of the 4 inch blocks need to be flush with the foam. Spend the time to get the blocks level to each other as this is the foundation of your pool. Once filled, you can measure the water height to top of the pool on one side to the other but it is too late then. If you can rent a laser level for a couple of hours after you think you are set, that would be best. Set it up and get it level at any height....say waist high on outside of pool. Take a 2x4 with a level on it to insure plumb in both directions and put it on the furthest block on the side you are not digging down and mark the laser height on the 2x4. Now move that 2x4 to each block and get each block level. Try not to add any sand under the blocks to get level....best to only remove.

More questions or if you want pictures to better explain, don't hesitate to ask.
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This would be much easier than building a rock wall! Years ago I built a patio using 6x6 PT lumber as a frame and then filled it with all the stuff needed to make a concrete block patio. Drill a hole a little smaller than the rebar and pound the rebar in with a heavy hand sledge. They sell drill bits that are a foot or two long that work great for this.
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Converting to VS from SS

Newdude
Trk3263 said:
Your 19,000-gallon pool’s moderate size and the RJ-45 Plus’s capacity suggest 1200 RPM will likely be enough
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Nothing like a free word salad just in time for lunch. THANKS. :ROFLMAO:


For those not in the know, let's make the above sentence about cars.

Your mid-sized SUV and 100 gallon gas tank suggests that 30 mph is a good driving speed.

(A and B do not relate to C)
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Dolphin Proteus DX4 Repair or Replace?

S
I don't remember exactly how old my dx4 was, and I couldn't find the receipt, but it was acting erratically moving forward and backward a few inches and then stopping, this was maybe 2 months ago, and I put in for warranty repair. Ended up getting fixed under warranty somehow, so you might try the warranty method just in case. For me the motor was still fine, it was the wheels and some little gear thing and also the blue cord got replaced.
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Pool Heater and Solar Panels

meatyor
PoolBrews said:
I'm an engineer and always heavily research any significant purchase I'm about to make. installing solar panels simply doesn't make sense. Most solar systems are in excess of $20K. The ROI is in excess of 25 years, and in that time any number of things can happen. You can have equipment fail, damage from a storm, need the roof replaced, or you may even move. And having solar will not increase your resale value.

Some quick things to know that installers won't tell you:
  • Panels lose 10-20% of their effectiveness in the first two years of use. Calculations should always be made using 80% output, not 100%.
  • If you need your roof replaced, you'll have to pay to have the solar panels removed, and then pay to have them replaced. Some roofers will offer this service at a fee, but many won't.
  • The power has to be fed into your power company's grid - it doesn't go directly to your home. You sell power to them, then buy it back to use it.
  • Check to see if your power company is a co-op. It if is, they don't have to buy the power at the same rate as they sell it. Non co-op's have regulations in place so they have to pay the same as their sell rate. In my case, I have a co-op. They charge me $0.12 for electricity but only pay $0.09 to buy if from me.
  • There is usually a fee to belong to a co-op power company. In my case it's about $30/month or $1/day.
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Thanks PoolBrews, that gives me a lot to consider. Sounds like I’ll have to do a lot more research on solar. Appreciate it!
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Circupool RJ series power connector option ?

T
I'm getting ready to switch to SWG and settled on RJ30 for my 12k gal pool.
Previous owners of the house installed 110v outlet for pump and I'm running Pentair variable pump off of it.
Glancing over installation instruction it shows that it supports 110v power with simple jumper change on the unit.
However I think it comes with just wiring, not an actuall electrical plug.
Can I fit normal electrical plug at the end of wiring and use my existing 110v outlet ?
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how to renovate 1 drain, 1 skimmer pool

S
I have an old anthony and sylvan pool. I want to renovate it but I am not sure what to do about having 1 drain and 1 skimmer.

The system works fine now with the existing 1.85 hp pump. I close it myself and can push a lot of air bubbles out of the main drain with a blower from the pump pad. This tells me the main drain is fine. However, I cant remember feeling any suction on the main drain when stepping over it. I guess since its an anthony style pool, the pump can pool from the skimmer, so it never pools from the main drain.

I've had at least half a dozen quotes and most have stayed with keeping the 1 drain and 1 skimmer setup. I did mention to all that I am cost conscious. A few have mentioned more skimmers would be good. But they seem okay with just replacing what is there to keep costs down. One or maybe two mentioned I really should have two skimmers and two drains.

From what I understood, once I go to a new variable speed pump, the suction is going to be greater and it will be a hazard for children. However, all were going to change my flush drain grate to a new one, which from what I gather is not flush and so should be okay for children? Then again, in anthony sylvan pool, the drain and skimmer are connected, so even if you completely block the main drain, I figure the pump can pull from the skimmer.

So as you can see, there is some confusion on the contractors part or maybe my part. I wanted to know if I can stick to 1 drain and 1 skimmer to reduce costs. Or if I really should consider getting an independent line for drain and skimmer, which at that point probably means I need to have two of each so that if one is blocked, the pump can pull from the other? Not really sure I understand that, because the pump only has one inlet, so having 1 skimmer and 1 drain seems redundant enough for me. Why double everything up?

Maybe i need a better understanding of how pool suction works.
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