Parallel RJ60+

[loamyroots]

Hi hope all is well! I'm looking to convert over from buying bulk liquid chlorine to SWG. Based on online calculators, I'm estimating my pool to be approximately 49k gallons (20'x50', 3.5' shallow end, 9.5' deep end).

I was considering doing this myself and am interested in the CircuPool generators. I'm deciding between the RJ60+ vs Core55.

Based on what I've read, I should purchase a SWG whose capacity is double the size of my pool. If that's the case, would you recommend I purchase 2 cells and run them in parallel? Thanks in advance!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

If you run them in parallel then you’ll need double the flow rate to satisfy the flow switch.

Honestly I would go with one RJ60+ and see how it meets your need before overly complicating things. Yes, you will need to run the SWG output at higher percentages than two units in parallel but the RJ60 should still provide you with enough chlorine. The cells have a fixed life span so running them hard simply just means buying the replacement cell a little sooner.

 

[PoolStored]

I concur with Matt. I have a 30K pool with RJ60, and I run at 15% during peak months in Ohio. Granted, I have solar cover. You might consider a solar cover...it can greatly reduce your FC demand.

I'd recommend the RJ over the core. It is a beast and has output controls with 5% increments vs. 6 output increments with the core. Also the core makes 2lb/day and the RJ makes 3.1lb/day.

As to running them hard, not really an issue, just don't want to run at 100% consistently...that is one of the ways to kill a cell fast.

Try the single RJ60...likely will work just fine.

Likely no issue if you get 2 and run them in series too.

SWG Multiple Cells - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

+3. Your New Jersey UV is much friendlier than Miami's.

You'll cover the daily FC loss with an RJ60+, and the peak season is short in the north east. The spring and fall have very little FC loss and you'll be able to run the unit alot less

You'll want a variable speed pump though, because you may need to run the SWG 16 hours a day in the summer.

 

[loamyroots]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

Ok well that's great to hear as it'll save some initial cost and will be much easier to plumb in. Will give it a shot and try just one unit for now and see how that goes.

The way the pool is currently set up, we have the shallow end returns being powered by one Hayward Super Pump (single speed) and the deep end by another single speed Hayward Super Pump. I usually just run the pumps around the same time at night, but if I'm asking for more output from my SWG should I have them run individually for about 4-8 hours each?

I was trying to hold off on making another big purchase again, but if it'll be a significant improvement let me know if I should just bite the bullet and upgrade my current pumps to a VSP. Won't hurt as much since I'm now only going with 1 SWG instead of 2.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Because your pool is so large and the SWG is rated close to your volume, you have to run the SWG for a significant number of hours, like 12 or more, per day.



You really don’t want to run a single speed pump for that long. Your utility bills will go through the roof.

Bite the bullet, install a VSP along with the SWG, and save the money on utilities. In fact, if you show us your equipment pad and plumbing setup, you may be able to buy one VSP and get rid of the two SSPs. Then you’ll really save some money as you can run the pump continuously at a low enough speed to keep filtering and satisfy the SWGs flow switch (typically around 15GPM).

 

[PoolStored]

I wholeheartedly agree with @JoyfulNoise. Get some VSPs

I would do either one of the following:
Upgrade the motors on your single speeds to Century EVO-Green VSP or Nidec Neptune

Century (A.O. Smith) 1.65 HP Motor, V-Green, Round Flange 56J, Variable Speed, 208-230V - Model ECM16CU - INYOPools.com

V-Green 1.65 HP Round Flange 56J Variable Speed Motor - ECM16CU

www.inyopools.com

Replacement Variable Speed Threaded Motor | 1.65THP 115/230V 56J TEFC C-Flange Motor | NPTT165

Pool Supply Unlimited has some of the best prices when shopping for Replacement Variable Speed Threaded Motor | 1.65THP 115/230V 56J TEFC C-Flange Motor | NPTT165

www.poolsupplyunlimited.com

Either way you want a go-kit 3 to go with it.

Hayward Super Pump Seal Kit, SP1600 & SP2600 Series | By Pureline | GOKIT3 - INYOPools.com

Tune Up Kit Hayward Super Pump

www.inyopools.com

I recommend Inyo, no experience with poolsupply unlimited. Evaluate your supplier.

If you want to replace the both pumps and start fresh, the Hayward Triton VS 900, Triton VS 950 and the MaxFlo XL are also good pumps that will save you electrical costs over ANY single speed pump.

Just did this analysis this week for another member. The savings over a single speed are a no brainer.

 

[loamyroots]

Ok wow yeah based on those numbers it doesn't make sense. Besides if I'm going to be making some changes to the plumbing for the SWG, might as well just do it all and install a VSP instead.

I've attached a couple of pictures of the setup.

There are 3 pipes coming from the shallow end going into an older Hayward Super Pump 1.5 HP followed by a 27" sand filter.
There are another 3 pipes coming from the deep end going into a slightly newer, but still old, Hayward Super Pump 1 HP followed by a second 27" sand filter.
The pipes combine after the two sand filters before the heater.

 

[PoolStored]

Given the size and configuration of the pad, I'd replace the pumps with VSPs. There is a lot of work to be done to consolidate to one filter. @JoyfulNoise may disagree, but , personally, I'd get two pumps and replace vs. one pump and new filter.

It is probably a toss up between the two. 2 pumps vs. 1 pump plus new filter. If you go to one pump, then get a 500sqft+ cartridge filter.

I would recommend a number of things. The PVC ball valves should all be replace with Jandy/Pentiar/Hayward/CMP diverters. They will be a problem now or later...as you can see from broken valves.


I would put a bypass on the heater. You need one.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You also have a booster pump that likely a pressure side cleaner.

All connections to pump and filter should be high temp unions Pentair/Hayward/Jandy/CMP all make good unions.

1740275908895.png

• PoolStored
• Feb 22, 2025

 

[loamyroots]

Ok lots to think about here, I appreciate all the guidance.

If I consolidate to 1 VSP, do I need to consolidate to 1 filter? Or could I just branch off the VSP and run the 2 sand filters in parallel? Would that be an issue or just unecessary?

Regarding the ball valves, yes it appears that they only have 1 handle for the ball valve that can be moved around to open/close those valves as necessary. Definitely not an ideal setup and after I've read numerous posting on here about how they will usually fail, I might as well replace them now. Thanks for the reminder!

Yes there was a Polaris booster pump for pressure side cleaner. The prior homeowner said the cleaner and pump were not functioning and the company taking care of the the pool were not using it. So I disconnected it from the plumbing after taking those pictures. I now have 2 pipes sticking out of the ground from where I removed it. I looked on here and there were a few other posts talking about the same situation. Seems the options were to either just cap off the ends, connect the 2 ends together (which would create an additional return), or use the 2 ends for something interesting such as a Leveler autofill system.

 

[PoolStored]

If I consolidate to 1 VSP, do I need to consolidate to 1 filter? Or could I just branch off the VSP and run the 2 sand filters in parallel? Would that be an issue or just unecessary?

Likely just un-necessary.

We are in the deep end, and out of the norm. You have a very large pool. There are no best practices that are readily available.

I have not seen very many any pools that have one pump and 2 filters.

No matter how you cut it, two filters doing the same job will do no better than 1 adequate filter doing that job. We shouldn't split fine hairs, both your filters remove debris from the water and really are likely similar to a large single filter.

Again, two pumps and filters, vs. one pump one filter is a toss up cost wise.

 

[loamyroots]

Gotcha. Yes the only reason I ask was to try holding off on purchasing a new filter to replace the two old sand ones if I'm going to be purchasing a SWG and VSP this year.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

@JamesW or @mas985 might be able to help you with the hydraulic calculation if you know the diameter of the pipes involved, distance from the pad to the pool and and elevation changes.

 

[loamyroots]

Ok great, yes I can definitely get those measurements tomorrow then!

I had written down the Pentair Intelliflo3 in my notes awhile back as a potential future upgrade option. Any reason to go with Intelliflo3 vs the Hayward Triton VS 950 for example? I haven't looked into the comparisons yet.

 

[PoolStored]

The Triton VS 950 and intelliflo3 are almost identical from a performance perspective.

 

[loamyroots]

Ok great thank you, good to know, guess I will have to decide which brand to go with if I ever decide to add automation.

 

[PoolStored]

Everything you have is Hayward, best to stay in the family for automation. The only issue you have is the SWG. Only the RJ and Pentair IC60 are big enough for your pool. The IC-60 is 2lb/day and the RJ is 3.1lb/day. Ignoring the potentially inflated numbers from the Manufacturers, I'd get the RJ.

On the automation front, there are two levels of "automation" for SWG. One to control the output of the SWG. You can get that with Pentair automation and the IC60. You cannot get that with the RJ.
Two is to control the power to the SWG through a relay. You can get that with most advance automation. The point on the power control is that you don't want the SWG running if the pump isn't running. Bad news. You should not rely on the SWG flow switch as your primary safety for the SWG. More reading:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

On the heater front, can you check and confirm your heater part number? The form factor is not likely for an H100, but is accurate for an H150FD, H200FD, H250FD, H300FD, H350FD, H400FD & H500FD MODEL.

 

[loamyroots]

Got it. Yes the H100 is the heater for the separate spa. The pool's heater is the Hayward H400FD.

As long as I connect the SWG to same terminals on the timer switch that the pump is on, shouldn't the two always run together?

 

[PoolStored]

A Variable Speed pump (VS) should have continuous power and not be connected to a timer. The pump runtime should be controlled by its internal control panel and clock. A separate mechanical timer can control the SWG. Care must then be taken for the SWG timer to turn on 15 minutes after the pump begins running and SWG power off before the pump turns off. This can become a problem when house power is lost, and the pump retains the proper time while the mechanical timer does not. Anytime you lose power, ensure you check the settings on the timer and the pump. The flow switch is a secondary safety to the timer.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mas985]

There are 3 pipes coming from the shallow end going into an older Hayward Super Pump 1.5 HP followed by a 27" sand filter.
There are another 3 pipes coming from the deep end going into a slightly newer, but still old, Hayward Super Pump 1 HP followed by a second 27" sand filter.
The pipes combine after the two sand filters before the heater.

Based upon the pictures, for each pump, it looks like there are 2 skimmers (Label: SK) and 1 MD. So unless you have 4 skimmers and 2 sets of MDs, they may have split the suction underground.

The underground pipe looks like it may be 1.5" and between the pump and filter, 2"?

If there are 6 lines suctions pool to pump and 4 return lines pad to pool, then most of the head loss is going to be in the heater and filters. However, given the pictures, I suspect the PB just split the lines underneath the pad plumbing so you may not have as many lines as you think pool to pad.