I do not have unions, but I see Pentair sells a riser stand to convert from the whisperflo. This made me think it was drop in replacement, save for a height adjustment on the pump. I thought I would be cutting threaded adapters off and gluing pipe/unions only, but I guess not.

The Pentair 011075 is the basic 3hp model. I bought one last week, and will install it in a week or two. You can control it via wifi / home app. I guess by a video or two, you can also do some very basic controls on the unit itself.

The Pentair 011076 is exactly the same, but it includes the relay board. The relay board allows for two items to be attached (and controlled) by wifi. As previously mentioned, the controlled is just power. So, lights on one, and a booster pump on the other, maybe.

Youtube search for pentair intelliflo relay board programming and you'll see a few good videos.

For me, since I bought the pump already, and am also buying an SWCG, I'm going to buy the relay board separately. It'll be worth it.

You need to check if the contractors who did the work - gunite, plumbing, etc. - have been paid or if they will come to you for payments or put a lien on your house.

ajw22 said:

I don't know what you want to do with your skimmer/MD actuator or why you need it.

Click to expand...

Moe,

I 'assume' that you need to be sucking from the main drain when your In-Floor-Cleaning-System is running...

Is that true or is it something else???

Thanks,

Jim R.

Other things you want to ask about:

Specific equipment list (name/model #)
Heater?
# of skimmers
Main drain?
# of returns
Vacuum port or will you use a robot?
Do you require a perimeter safety fence (code)?
try to get a fixed price for extra decking

Deleted

The relay opens or closes one leg of 220v not the most ideal, but allowable(one leg will remain hot at the load). As long as it’s square flange it will fit whisperflo. There is input switches that override the control panel and can be controlled by a series of relays. There is also a rs485 connector but I couldn’t find any documentation on the modbus.

H,

My pull it out of my rear guess it that it will cost you another $65K to complete the job.. so $85 + $65 = $150K

Let's see what some of our members, who do this stuff for a living, have to say...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Only way you will know is by getting some quotes from other builders to complete the work.

Consider being your GC from here and hiring the sub-contractors directly. It will save you money and give you more control over the outcome.

Drive around your area, find pool builds, and talk to the contractors on site about what you need done.

djdonte said:

Will running extended hours at a lower speed cause more wear and tear on my salt cell?

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dj,

It will have no effect on your salt cell...

Without any 'proof' I personally believe that running the pump 24/7 is much better for the pump than turning it on and off each day.. Until this year, I had three pools that all have 3 HP IntelliFlo pumps.. all three have been running 24/7 for at least 12 years. All three pumps run today, just like they did when installed. I like making a little chlorine all the time, and I like skimming all the time.. I also like the look if my pool when there is a little action to the water... I never have to worry about freeze control as the pump is already running..

I run 24/7 because that works best for me.. You should run whatever works best for you.

As a side note... When running at a low rpm, you will initially swear that your skimmers are not working... They just 'look' different, but they are working just fine.. It is the weir door that makes your skimmers work, not the speed of the pump.

Thanks,

Jim R.

All done. Started the fill at dusk last night. Shut it off to not overflow while sleeping. We'll be ready for swimming in a week assuming it warms up again soon.

djdonte said:

Will running extended hours at a lower speed cause more wear and tear on my salt cell?

Click to expand...

No.

A drop in replacement would be another FNS 60.

Replaced the PID board, no change in values on any test points. Submitted warranty claim for SWG, which is only 2 years old.

Question - if the SWG is bad, will the voltage at the cable feeding the unit be zero or near zero, which is what I am seeing? Assuming the resistance is zero or near zero, the Voltage in the circuit would be zero or near zero. Is this what occurs when an SWG is bad - resistance goes to zero?

shagymoe said:

Yes

Done

Click to expand...

Now the heater bypass actuator will automatically open and close when the heater turns on and off with no additional programming required.

Intake, Return, and Heater Bypass actuators will all automatically operate with changes in POOL, SPA, and HEAT mode.

I don't know what you want to do with your skimmer/MD actuator or why you need it.

dj,

Just to make sure...

The IntelliFlo3 does not have the same form factor as the standard WhisperFlo pumps.. This means that you will have to do a little plumbing work to connect the new pump.

If your old pump was not installed with pump unions, you will have to replumb anyway, but if you do have unions, the IntelliFlo3 is not a drop in replacement..

Thanks,

Jim R.

I understand. I have 220 at my pad so I will go with a 3hp. Will running extended hours at a lower speed cause more wear and tear on my salt cell?

djdonte said:

Why do you say I should spring for the 3hp?

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dj,

The bigger the pump the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.

The slower you can run it the less it costs to run.

The slower you can run it the quieter it will be..

I have a older 3 HP IntelliFlo and run it 24/7, most of the time at 1200 rpm.. this costs me less than $20 bucks a month.. And.. the newer IntelliFlo3 pumps are much more energy efficient, then my old pump..

At that speed, you almost have to touch the pump to make sure it is actually running...

VS pump are really variable HP pumps... you just adjust the HP of the pump to match what you are wanting to do.

I am assuming that your current pump is being run from 240 VAC.. If you do not have 240 VAC at your equipment pad, then obviously, you should get the 1.5 HP pump.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Having only used hoses for 20 years on our last pool I can say hard plumb the filter! It seemed that I replaced hoses all the time. As Newdude said, they spring a leak or slit at the worst moment. I've come home from work with a hose deciding to become a fountain and once had the pool drain because it split.

I would prefer a drop in replacement as I was planning on a DIY install.. but if a convincing case is made for a new brand I'll work it out..

Jsf721 said:

Thanks for that user experience, How long have you had it?

My issue is this is a vacation home and I will be off site a few weeks. Guess I can have a friend baby sit it for me, I just don't want to return to a swamp - LOL

Click to expand...

We're just starting our 3rd season. I wouldn't go back to jugs of chlorine for any price.

I was away for 2 weeks last year, never had to touch the pool...FC was a little on the high side when we got back basically because no one had been using the pool and the cover was on all the time. Another trip for a week where the wife stayed at home using the pool, came back to FC being exactly where it was supposed to be - no interaction required.

Its not 100% hands-off, you still need to test and tweak if needed, but once you understand YOUR pool's demands, it's about as close to hands-off as you can get.

I also have some ad-hoc monitoring setup to ensure that power is getting to the pump/SWG etc, and some extra failsafe's beyond the flow-switch (if the pump stops, power is turned off to the SWG/Heater etc).

ajw22 said:

Did you create a feature circuit called “Heater Byass”?

Click to expand...

Yes

ajw22 said:

Valve B should be assigned to “Heater” circuit.

Click to expand...

Done