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CO2 pH Control

J
ajw22 said:
It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days.
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People need to be very careful and brush a lot to avoid scaling.

If you go with a +0.5 CSI, you need to really watch the levels and keep them in tight control.

If scaling begins, you need to get the CSI down fast to avoid it getting out of control.
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(Failed with first 60 days) First look at Pentair's new IntelliChlor Plus30

ajw22
JamesW said:
They could do a plan where they give you the cell and then bill you $0.20 per hour of production.

Every month, they bill you for time used.

If the cell fails, they just give you a new one.

If you ran at 100% for 24 hours, that is 1.4 lbs at $4.80 or $3.42 per lb of chlorine gas.

10,000 hours would add up to $2,000.00 total vs. about $1,500.00 to buy the cell.
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CAAS - Chlorine as a Service coming soon.
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Intellicenter heater automation

ajw22
shagymoe said:
I need the skimmer/MD actuator to balance between the two. The skimmer cannot handle 100% and at 50%, which is what would happen if there were no valve, it does not suck hard enough to skim very well. So, the actuator allows me to set it more like 75% skimmer 25% MD for good skimming. (I said 50/50 in the spreadsheet for simplicity.) Does that make sense?
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Create a Skimmer feature circuit you assign Valve A to and set the VS pump speed that works best. Run the Skimmer circuit while POOL mode is active.
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(Failed with first 60 days) First look at Pentair's new IntelliChlor Plus30

J
They could do a plan where they give you the cell and then bill you $0.20 per hour of production.

Every month, they bill you for time used.

If the cell fails, they just give you a new one.

If you ran at 100% for 24 hours, that is 1.4 lbs at $4.80 or $3.42 per lb of chlorine gas.

10,000 hours would add up to $2,000.00 total vs. about $1,500.00 to buy the cell.
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Intellicenter heater automation

shagymoe
Jimrahbe said:
Moe,

I 'assume' that you need to be sucking from the main drain when your In-Floor-Cleaning-System is running... :scratch:

Is that true or is it something else???
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The in-floor-cleaning-system is the only returns in the pool, so if it's in pool mode, it's always "cleaning". However, they don't work well at low speeds, so I ramp up the pump for 2 hours to "clean" the pool. The intake can be full MD or partial MD / partial skimmer but not full skimmer because it can't handle 100%.
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Intellicenter heater automation

shagymoe
ajw22 said:
Now the heater bypass actuator will automatically open and close when the heater turns on and off with no additional programming required.

Intake, Return, and Heater Bypass actuators will all automatically operate with changes in POOL, SPA, and HEAT mode.

I don't know what you want to do with your skimmer/MD actuator or why you need it.
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I had to rotate the heater bypass valve 90 degrees because the home position can only be 0 or 24 but yes, it does open and close automatically now when I turn heat on and off. THANK YOU!
I need the skimmer/MD actuator to balance between the two. The skimmer cannot handle 100% and at 50%, which is what would happen if there were no valve, it does not suck hard enough to skim very well. So, the actuator allows me to set it more like 75% skimmer 25% MD for good skimming. (I said 50/50 in the spreadsheet for simplicity.) Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

Pool Math LC Addition Calculation Incorrect

T
Hey all. Unsure what to do here.

I am using 12.5% Blue Whale liquid chlorine (from Leslie's). I checked the box, and the manufacturer date is very recent (sometime in mid February 2025), and I store it in a dark closet, so I doubt degradation is an issue.

When calculating on pool math to raise the FC level, my first reading this morning it was at 6.6ppm. I had it calculate a suggestion to get to 10ppm (my CYA is 70). Added 62 fl oz as recommended. Tested 60 minutes later, FC level is only 8.4ppm. This has been consistently an issue since I started testing regularly in February, and it's making it difficult to keep my FC consistent because I don't think I'm ever adding enough.

But I think my pool gallons are correct (17,700). I have the original information from the pool builder, and I don't have this issue with adding other chemicals to the pool. When I added dry stabilizer in February, the suggested amount from pool math to add for 17,700 gallons was pretty spot on for what I got (if not, ended up a hair higher ppm than expected - rather than low, like the chlorine).

To get to the "correct" chlorine ppm by adjusting my gallons, I'd have to essentially nearly double the gallons in my pool, which I just don't think is correct.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Could the chlorine I'm getting just be crappy? TIA!!
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Converting to Salt / Pentair 520538

J
So got everything in yesterday, got all the plumbing done and no leaks! That was way beyond my skill set but am happy so far its all good. Added all the salt in batches late yesterday so, getting close. In trying to connect the communications between the SWG power supply and my Easy Touch panel, I’m assuming it just connects to the same terminals as the wired remote? Or do I need to invest in the Comm Ports adaptor to have more ports? So what I’m asking is can the COMM port handle 2 different types of data, one from the remote, and one from the SWG, simultaneously?
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New Fiberlgass install. Pool is bowed in and poured coping is warped. I hate it.

Newdude
MidWestIsBest said:
I'm just hoping that his reputation is important enough to do the right thing here and fix it properly
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Pictures on every review site there is will tell your story very well, free of emotion. 'If you'd like your $100k pool to look like this, XYZ Builder is your guy'.

Hold off on any emotion or threats while it plays out, just keep this knowledge in your back pocket. :)
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Polaris 280, typical pressure? Drive axle can be stopped incredibly easily

M
Bperry said:
Often the motor jets get a piece of grit in them and it reduces the pressure to the motor. Take all the jets hoses off and blow them clean. Also check the screen filter on the hose connection at the pool wall.
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Yes I have removed the jets and cleared them out, and the little inline filter.
HermanTX said:
I have rebuilt mine at least twice. That turbine needs to replace every so often as that drives the wheels. Ensure that tube that leads to it is clean, not cracked or leaking.
Changing the gear wheels is important.
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I’ll have to dive deeper in and inspect the turbine then.
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New plaster, aerate with spa bubblers?

ajw22
Welcome to TFP.

Yes, you can run your spa bubblers and spillway for aeration with new plaster.

I would not get overly aggressive with trying to lower your TA. The start-up guides give you pH and TA targets that a e often impossible to maintain.

With a TA of 200 your pH will rise naturally pretty quickly. Just knock your pH down to around 7.6 whenever it gets to 8. Your TA will drop over time.

TA is the least important value as long as you keep your pH in the 7's.

You will always be fighting high TA and pH with lots of evaporation and high TA fill water in Houston.

What start-up guide are you using?

What test kit are you using?

What is your CSI?

Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The normal CSI guidelines do not apply to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary to achieve a smooth and dense surface to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface must be "carbonated" before lowering the CSI to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water.
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20250326_072552.jpg

M
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Troubleshooting Aquarite SWG

pfitz4
mknauss said:
Be sure that the power is completely removed from the SWCG when the pump is not running.
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Currently the pump is running 24 hrs/day. When the pool is cleared up after opening and in regular operation, I use a timer. Is there something else I need to be doing to ensure the power is removed from the SWG? Thanks for your feedback.
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New Fiberlgass install. Pool is bowed in and poured coping is warped. I hate it.

M
It's right at about 3" buldge to the middle when measuring from corner to corner. At this point I'm mad that the pool wall itself is that deformed. Considering the PVC is "locked in" with the gravel halfway down, and the top fill and concrete is what seems to have pushed it in, how is that not creating enormous strain on the pipes?!?. What a cluster this is turning into. It was so close to being done well, I don't know how they didn't see this or thought it was acceptable workmanship. This builder has great reviews and I'm just hoping that his reputation is important enough to do the right thing here and fix it properly which unfortunately means a whole tear-out of the coping and digging out a good amount of the backfill.
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Intelliflo3 reviews?

S
The Pentair 011075 is the basic 3hp model. I bought one last week, and will install it in a week or two. You can control it via wifi / home app. I guess by a video or two, you can also do some very basic controls on the unit itself.

The Pentair 011076 is exactly the same, but it includes the relay board. The relay board allows for two items to be attached (and controlled) by wifi. As previously mentioned, the controlled is just power. So, lights on one, and a booster pump on the other, maybe.

Youtube search for pentair intelliflo relay board programming and you'll see a few good videos.

For me, since I bought the pump already, and am also buying an SWCG, I'm going to buy the relay board separately. It'll be worth it.
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