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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

PoolStored
Pas_pool said:
I feel like the up and downs could have a negative effect on the pump...but I could be wrong.
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Pumps are made to run. Doesn't matter speed or speed changes.
Starting and stopping are hard on pumps. Better to just let them run.
Not sure on "down" overnight...what are you thinking?
Read this:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Alkalinity still high - 2 years!

P00LNerd
2 years ago, we followed some bad advice to jack up our alkalinity, and after changing out more than 8000 gallons of water plus draining down the random rain, we're still holding 110 ppm.

Our pH is also trending low, which I know can be easily fixed with aeration, except the pool is already running 64F and aerating in cold weather ain't going to help that. In other words, I'll do it if I need to, but I suspect effectiveness of this method at these temperatures may be reduced, and it's going to make our pool even colder when we're running 40F nights. Right now, I have the solar cover on, and I'm actually seeing a few degrees temperature increase with each sunny.

Can you guys have a quick peak at my water test, and let me know what you'd do? You can ignore the low salt, I just got 3500 gallons fresh water added yesterday, which knocked it down from 3200 to 2500 ppm. I just added 80 lb. of salt to bring it back up a bit, but am waiting until tomorrow to re-check salt content.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Newdude
Pas_pool said:
Is it really worth have a schedule to lower it down overnight to like 1400rpms?
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You'll drop 500W-ish down to 120W-ish. You aren't going to Disney with the couple of months worth of savings, but 25% is 75% in your pocket.

Pas_pool said:
I feel like the up and downs could have a negative effect on the pump.
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Pumps pretty much dont complain unless you dont feed them water. Some turn on and off multiple times a day, others change speeds, others just run for a decade or two straight.
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Pump Losing Pressure - Need Additional Ideas

G
bradgray said:
You most likely have a leak on the suction side, as many have suggested. A worn or loose impeller may fail to 'build' prime but it sounds like it draws the initial gallon through, it just chokes on air rapidly thereafter.

You don't have any valves, so this really only leaves the items you've already addressed, the pump housing, or the plumbing.

You've confirmed the clear lid on your pump is not cracked? Does not have deviations in the channel where the o-ring rests?

Inspect everything that seals the pump in front of the seal plate. Run the pump for a moment, ideally building that a moment of pressure, and shut it off - listen for whining/high pitched air escaping near mating surfaces and pipe welds.
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You are exactly right - it pulls in that initial gallon of water, but then chokes on air. Good observation, as that rules out a few things.

The clear lid did look normal, but I bought a replacement lid and might as well throw that on there just to see if it helps.

I will run the pump and if it is still struggling, I will use hose down some of the connections, or cover them with a plastic bag, to see if that stops the system from drawing in air. Thank you both for your help.
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My First Pool Kit….Builder Edition

Lake Placid
proavia said:
It took a whole new level of stupid to lay out that pad.
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You'll note the brass plugs in the suction piping. That's because the builder installed the county mandated blue white flow meters on the suction side of of the pumps. My report called that out and he moved them to the pressure side. The kicker when he reinstalled them they were still oriented backwards to the direction of flow so they still didn't work. 😳
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My First Pool Kit….Builder Edition

Lake Placid
Jimrahbe said:
LP,

I like how they planned for future revenue, by making the backwash pipe stop right above the IntelliFlo3, so that when it leaks, it will drip right on the pump's control panel... :mrgreen:

What Industry are you actually in??? :poke:

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Actually that's me. It's just temporary as the builder removed the discharge hose and all associated backwash plumbing when "winterizing". The fluid master autofill valve also disappeared when he winterized. I'm back today at the property to properly configure the backwash and correct all the electrical deficiencies.
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

S
Live algae can be sticky, and a bit of a pain to scrub. But do so. At times it may be in layers, and the CL only gets the top, and what lies below comes back. So scrub often. Usual advice for accessories applies - take out ladders and scrub/bleach heavily, even inside. Light fixtures, bottom drain covers, and similar areas can all be hiding places.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

P
sande005 said:
A great journey! I just scrolled through the 9 screens of learning!

Not much of value to add, except to say that you are really close to the TFP nirvana!
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I appreciate it. It had been crazy learning all I have in the last few weeks. Truly a testament to all of you helping me out.
sande005 said:
Moving forward, your pool chores will be less and less.
When the TA gets in the 60-70 range you will need only a little acid (if at all) for pH from time to time. Last year, I only used 1/2 gal for the whole summer. Testing pH weekly, or maybe even bi-weekly, will come into it's own. CL will be twice a week, and maybe down to once, depending on the circumstances, and how stable the prior readings seem to be. Aim for the top of the range as your goal number per your CYA level (9-10 if at CYA 70), which gives a great buffer for pool parties, earthworm invasions, dilution due to rain, etc. Note that pH readings become inaccurate if the CL level is above 10. Dial your SWCG up or down as need and the season/CL levels dictate - changes are a bit slow, so don't chase it daily.
While the SWCG will compensate for the usual day-to-day losses, you may want to test after that big party, storm, or other and splash in a bit of liquid to get it back to the target. But don't fret if it is still in the target range, just avoid getting close to the minimum in the chart.
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Yeah, I am still working on getting my CYA up a little more. On Friday my stabilizer from amazon will be delivered so I will add another few pounds to get it up to 70.

That is helpful to know that pH readings become inaccurate with chlorine levels about 10. Mine is high at 14, but I wanted to keep my SWG at 40% until I knew how stabilizer worked. Now that I have a grasp on that, I turned down my SWG to 20% last night. I will wait until tomorrow and test my CL again.
sande005 said:
Then you can play with your pump - the SWCG doesn't care about amount of water, as long as it is the minimum to allow it's flow switch to keep power on. Your HP may care more about speed. And there is overall effectiveness of how well the skimmers collect stuff. So a balancing act. I run mine at a higher speed for 2 hrs in the very early morning to better skim stuff from overnight, then 6 added hours at just enough speed to make the heater happy (it is on a timer), then low for overnight with no heat for cost savings. So I get CL 24/7, low or high skimming 24/7, and heat 8 hrs. Your HP may need a much longer time at a highish speed to keep it pumping heat adequately. And that may change depending on how well it can deal with average daily temps.
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As of right now I followed PoolStored recommendation to just run my pump 24/7 at 2200rpms. Enough to use my heat pump when I want to (I have not turned it on yet). Is it really worth have a schedule to lower it down overnight to like 1400rpms? I feel like the up and downs could have a negative effect on the pump...but I could be wrong.

My pumps default setting before I changed it was 8-10am was at high speed @ 3000rpm, then 10am-8pm was low @ 1400rpm and then 8-10pm was medium @2200rpm. Then off between 10pm and 8am.
sande005 said:
By mid summer you will be one with the pool, and fiddling time will be minimal. All that is left is brushing/netting/vacuuming as needed.
In my old bad filter/tablet days I could spend 3-8 hours per week ( and huge dollars at the pool store) dealing with the issues. Now, it is 15 min- 1hr depending on how much cleaning I have to do. But my wife has all sorts of ideas about how I can now spend the extra time....
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I'm so glad I was talked into a SWG pool. It was a last minute pivot. Also, grateful we purchased a betta SE skimmer and Neptune i40 pool vacuum. Both do a great job.
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

P
Donldson said:
As the saying goes, "well there's your problem". If there is visible algae in the water then the SLAM Process is not complete.

Jump back on it and don't let up until all three criteria have been achieved. BTW: round your CYA to 50, we round it up to the tens. That makes your target 20 ppm FC.
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Water is perfectly clear. Algae is on the walls in a few places.
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IC-40 Dead???

PoolStored
Maybe, what % liquid chlorine do you have? What % did you put in pool math?
You are not logging your tests and additions, so hard to help.
If the percentage match, then no, LOWER the pool volume by 500 and test it again, 30 min after next addition.
PM thinks your pool is larger than it is...that's why you got higher results (unless there is a % problem on the LC)
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

PoolStored
You allowed your FC to get too low for your CYA after SLAM. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
During normal operation, you should dose ABOVE range, so that when you test, you are IN range.
Start the slam process and don't quit until you pass. Link-->SLAM Process

Your CYA is 50. Always round up to the next 10. Your SLAM target is 20.
Slam is a process. Test, replace to get to 20, wait, test, replace to get to 20. Keep doing this AT LEAST 3-4x per day, You can even do every two hours.
Do not stop testing and replacing until:
CC <= .5
You pass overnight chlorine loss test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
And pool is clear like this...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
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Stubborn algae afte SLAM

Donldson
pji said:
Most (99%) of the algae cleaned up after the SLAM and some brushing but some small pieces remain.
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As the saying goes, "well there's your problem". If there is visible algae in the water then the SLAM Process is not complete.

Jump back on it and don't let up until all three criteria have been achieved. BTW: round your CYA to 50, we round it up to the tens. That makes your target 20 ppm FC.
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Pool Equipment and Balancing Water

L
Hi, I had been paying a pool technician previously but I wasn't able to learn anything and it was very expensive, hence going DiY route, .

For this season, i have done the following:

1) I have brushed the pool floor, skimmed the surface and removed larger debris.
2) Added Pool Shock - over 2.5 lbs already, algaecide, clarifier.
3) Ran the sand filter on backwash for couple of mins, then rinsed briefly and placed on filter. This is where I run into issues. The filter mode doesnt seem to work.
4) As I run into pressure issues , i have been manually moving the flow of water at the surface using the pool brush/net.

Issues
1) Once placed on Filter, Pressure in the sand filter drops, so does in the return jets. I keep clearing the skimmer basket sock for gunk, pine needles and smaller debris. Yet after that this happens in a short while. I have been placing the sand filter on recirculate, which bypasses the sand filter, i am not sure if I should be doing it for that long.
2) The Main Drain has not had started yet i think , cause I havent seen bubbles popping up from it as yet.
3) There are 4 return jets in my pool, 2 by the steps , 1 in the deep and 1 on the opposite side to the steps. The one on the opposite side to the steps has barely any pressure in it.
4) My deep end and shallow end return jets have air bubbles at times once the pump is on.
5) My Heater - A Raypack Gas Heater, shows "No Demand" is this also causing any potential issues?
6) I think due to the lack of circulation of water on filter mode, my water is still cloudy. I ran the AcuCheck test last night and most of the parameters were in the "Ok" range. I think the hardness might have been slightly higher.

I will upload images here with for your reference.

Sorry if this is not the right category or group thread to be posting under.

Thanks for all your help!
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