Stubborn algae afte SLAM

pji

Active member
Aug 12, 2021
44
South Florida
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Autopilot Digital Nano+ PPC2
After a few months of not taking care of my pool (I know I know..) I'm now paying the price. Most (99%) of the algae cleaned up after the SLAM and some brushing but some small pieces remain. It definately looks like green algae, idential the what was there before the SLAM.

Question now is, do I SLAM again or try a spot treatment? I read about a chlorine puck in a sock but not so sure.

Levels today (TF-Pro Salt kit):

FC - 5
CC - 0
pH - 7.4 (dropped it to 7.2 yesterday to tackke high TA)
TA - 70
CYA -45 (I normally keep this a little higher, 60/70, but am working my way back there slowly)
CH - 350 (Getting it to 450 at the minute is the plan)
Salt - 3600

Plaster Pool, Autopilot ColorSync Gen II SWG.

PoolMath is telling me to add 216oz liquid chlorine to SLAM (18) based on my current CYA.
 
Most (99%) of the algae cleaned up after the SLAM and some brushing but some small pieces remain.
As the saying goes, "well there's your problem". If there is visible algae in the water then the SLAM Process is not complete.

Jump back on it and don't let up until all three criteria have been achieved. BTW: round your CYA to 50, we round it up to the tens. That makes your target 20 ppm FC.
 
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You allowed your FC to get too low for your CYA after SLAM. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
During normal operation, you should dose ABOVE range, so that when you test, you are IN range.
Start the slam process and don't quit until you pass. Link-->SLAM Process

Your CYA is 50. Always round up to the next 10. Your SLAM target is 20.
Slam is a process. Test, replace to get to 20, wait, test, replace to get to 20. Keep doing this AT LEAST 3-4x per day, You can even do every two hours.
Do not stop testing and replacing until:
CC <= .5
You pass overnight chlorine loss test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
And pool is clear like this...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
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OK seems clear enough. Thanks all. First time doing a SLAM. Will stick with it.

I assume the plan is that the process kills the last few pieces of algae on the 2 or 3 places on the walls and I should be able to brush off whatver remains?
 
As the saying goes, "well there's your problem". If there is visible algae in the water then the SLAM Process is not complete.

Jump back on it and don't let up until all three criteria have been achieved. BTW: round your CYA to 50, we round it up to the tens. That makes your target 20 ppm FC.
Water is perfectly clear. Algae is on the walls in a few places.
 
Live algae can be sticky, and a bit of a pain to scrub. But do so. At times it may be in layers, and the CL only gets the top, and what lies below comes back. So scrub often. Usual advice for accessories applies - take out ladders and scrub/bleach heavily, even inside. Light fixtures, bottom drain covers, and similar areas can all be hiding places.
 
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Im still confused here, but thats not terribly difficult to do, so.

Do you have stains that would require the crushed up tabs, and you're calling it algae ?

Or an actively growing sediment ?

Or both ?

Got pics ? They say 1000 words and all.
 
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Im still confused here, but thats not terribly difficult to do, so.

Do you have stains that would require the crushed up tabs, and you're calling it algae ?

Or an actively growing sediment ?

Or both ?

Got pics ? They say 1000 words and all.
Not home right now but I would have said stains from not brushing enough. Butnow that I properly read the SLAM process again I realised I didn't follow it through. I'll do it properly and see what happens.

Will send photos if they still remain after.
 
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Is this for now or in general? PoolMath says 350-550 is ideal. Is the lower end ok?
The low end is actually ideal, but many have high CH fill water and its impossible to maintain without a water softener.

For you, with the wet season upon you in FL, I'd run a little higher at 400 to allow dilution from all the storms and more time between adds. Then at 300 I would add another 100. (By the same token, id let it be now until its 300 because harmless and im lazy. )
 
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The low end is actually ideal, but many have high CH fill water and its impossible to maintain without a water softener.

For you, with the wet season upon you in FL, I'd run a little higher at 400 to allow dilution from all the storms and more time between adds. Then at 300 I would add another 100. (By the same token, id let it be now until its 300 because harmless and im lazy. )
Thanks, good to know!
 
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