japoolspa said:

Since it's an Intelliflo, by your first post I'm now thinking your "POOL HIGH CIRCUIT" is a Feature Circuit.
To set Solar button on the outdoor panel to run your high speed on an egg timer for x hours (Assuming 1 pump, no Solar system :
1) Go to settings menu and then Intelliflo (pump) menu. Set an available speed to the RPM you want. Assign that speed to Aux Extra
2) Menu. Down to Schedules>Select; Down to Aux Extra>Select; Mode-New. Mode-Egg Timer. Set hours to run.
3) Test with the solar button

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Worked perfectly!

Oh, right, I got your 30v and 40v indications reversed in my head. I had already provided some of that detail, it's on, passes the flow test, goes to all happy green lights, including "generating" and then after a few minutes changes to the single red "inspect cell" light and stays there until the next power cycle. It's reporting my salt level at 2900 ppm and I will test to get an accuracy comparison this afternoon. I have the output set to 50% right now. My concern is that, even if it's not generating, it should still have green lights and not the red "inspect cell" light.

Just trying to feed you guys little update videos when I can! Taking a little break and eating some lunch at the moment. Then I'm heading back out. Sorry for the poor video quality, I have the CHEAPEST samsung phone I could get and the camera is pretty low quality. It gets the point across, though.

$7600 sounds rich. I would have said around $6000 for replacing an existing Jandy heater by a pool store.

Did they understand it is a like for like drop in replacement?

I'm on it!

Let us know what you learn.

Newdude said:

Allen thats out of stock, but a good deal next time possibly.

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They have all different sizes. Age through their site and aee what size bags they have in stock.

They seem to be the best deal on the net and they go on and out of stock. I pick it up when it is available.

I just ordered it. Only going by what I read from it's manual.

Doo,

I'm guessing, but 42 volts would indicate to me that your new cell is not making chlorine..

It is on? Is it set to make chlorine? Do you have a good flow light? Salt is good? Output set to 100%??

Keep in mind that if the cell is set to 50% it will only make chlorine 50% of the time...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Allen thats out of stock, but a good deal next time possibly.

42V. So I think the EZTouch is working normally. My brand new salt cell's guide says to clean or replace the salt cell. It's only got a few hours on it, so I'll keep working with the manufacturer.

When you place a ticket with 811 you are supposed to clearly describe the area of work. It is also appreciated if you mark out the area of work with white paint. Having said that, locators realize the difference between homeowners and contractors, and Dig Safe would much rather you call and not have the work area not clearly marked out, than not call at all.

Some utilities send a locator on every ticket, but most use their records to determine if a person needs to be dispatched or not (cost savings). If you say "I am drilling in the patio in my backyard" it is a possibility that the electric, gas, sewer, water, and communications companies will all look at their plats and say "we have no buried utilities in your backyard - you are good to go" without sending a locator tech. In some states, the utilities do this, in others the contract locator takes the brunt, in some the utilities send their own employees to do the locating, and in some areas the 811 contractor will provide the triage service to the utilities (for a low low fee of course).

The upshot of this is , you may or may not get a locate tech out there, and if so, they may or may not do you a solid by locating private utilities.

Oddly enough, this along with soils engineering is one of my past jobs. I used to manage the contractor that did mark outs for a large telecom company in NJ and was part of the NTDPC (National Telecommunications Damage Prevention Council) and CGA (Common Ground Alliance). It's been a few years, but not much has changed

Pas_pool said:

I will get some stabilizer on Amazon now. Didn’t think they sold it. Thanks!

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Is the issue on one zone or multiple zones?
Is all return flow being sent to the IFCS?

Does the water distribution valve have T-valves or acrylic balls below the gearset?
If you were to open all T-valves or remove all acrylic balls at the same time, the water flow to each zone will be reduced as all 6 ports will be open.

You can remove popups one at a time on each zone and allow the system to cycle thru each zone. Be sure to lube the popup O-rings with pool lube before reinstalling the popup. With the pump on its highest speed, smaller debris will exit the removed popup pipe.

Tell us more about your pool by filling out your signature with pool, all pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.

Newdude said:

Any 100% pure cyanurric acid is fine. 4lb or 5lb bags at Walmart / HD / Lowes work in a pinch but are $5/lb. The Amazon brands are about $3/ lb right now. I get Puritech for CYA or CH on Amazon for $2 /lb in Dec or Jan. (I stopped with CH but its still a good deal)

If your TA ever needs a boost and it probably won't, 13lbs of Arm and Hammer Baking soda is $10 at Bjs/Costco/Sams and is a lifetime supply.

If your PH is low, which also probably won't happen, then hit up any laundry aisle for 20 mule Borax. It's $6(?) for a 4 lb box.

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This one?

The old mortar should be completely removed, it’s not good practice to have two different mortar bases (mixed and dried at different times).
The coping face that will come in contact with the mortar should be rough (I have seen crews cut slots on the bottom side to accommodate the mortar for more surface contact.
The coping should be properly hydrated prior to installing, the mortar needs hydration at this contact point.

@Lake Placid you ever deal with the IntelliCenter cover card?

Newdude said:

Any 100% pure cyanurric acid is fine. 4lb or 5lb bags at Walmart / HD / Lowes work in a pinch but are $5/lb. The Amazon brands are about $3/ lb right now. I get Puritech for CYA or CH on Amazon for $2 /lb in Dec or Jan. (I stopped with CH but its still a good deal)

If your TA ever needs a boost and it probably won't, 13lbs of Arm and Hammer Baking soda is $10 at Bjs/Costco/Sams and is a lifetime supply.

If your PH is low, which also probably won't happen, then hit up any laundry aisle for 20 mule Borax. It's $6(?) for a 4 lb box.

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Thanks for the info. I knew about the borax and the baking soda. I have to stock up when I go to Costco next time just to have some in case I need it. I will get some stabilizer on Amazon now. Didn’t think they sold it. Thanks!

ajw22 said:

Puri Tech Calcium Hardness Increaser - 25 lb

www.backyardpoolsuperstore.com

They sell on Amazon but I buy direct from them for less than $2/lb.

Dry stabilizer lasts forever is stored properly and I but a big bag.

LC and acid I buy from my local family owned pool store. I don’t use enough to go running around to save a few bucks.

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I bought some calcium from a local pool store the other day. Haven’t added any as my level is 150 currently. But good to have. I’ll look on Amazon in the future. Thanks.

Nice!

Welcome to TFP!!!

Great place to start-->Pool Care Basics

V___25 said:

I don't love the CYA from Ocean State Job Lot - it took days for it dissolve so I'll stick with Clorox brand from WalMart.

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Good to know. Thanks

ibondsmith said:

They have 35k and 55k units, so I would think I would go with the 55 for my 20k pool. Is that overkill?

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Not in SoCal with loooooooong and hot seasons. You'll blow through gobs of chlorine no matter which form. I'd go 3X in NY because the ROI is usually in your favor to upsize. In a hot climate I'd strongly consider 4X, but I'm maxed out quickly with a large pool. *sigh*.

I am not a fan of the core units because their output is 1/3 less than the similar priced RJ series. RJ is a bit more, but not 50% like the output going from 2 lbs a day output to 3lbs a day from the core55 to the rj60.

The install is a one time deal and future cells are 5 min plug and play swaps.

Give us the part number on the Intelliflo3, and the manufacture date. Take a pic of the sticker on the volute.
If you are going this route, there is an I/O board for the intelliflo3 that can do what you are proposing.
The Core is ok, but some reports of issues, particularly with water intrusion because of design.
I'd get the RJ45+. RJ's are tanks. And they have 5% output increments, which is really nice.
We are not affiliated with Circupool or DiscountSaltPools.com (<--buy here). I have an RJ and Loooooove it.

How big are these gaps under the bottom track? You say 3 and 5 inches, but is that how LONG the gaps are, or how deep?

If those measurements represent length, and the height of your gap is an inch or less, you should be fine with using something like compacted paver base in those area to fill in. If you want to be really sure, you could just put a patio block in those spots, just like you did under the legs. You want to make sure that those areas are constrained (like a pot hole) and not open on the side so the paver base can erode out. If that is the case, then I would put a block there. You really don't want your bottom rail going all wavy gravy on you.