TinFoilHat said:

You can put $800-900 into the T15 cell or move to Circupool and get an RJ45+ or RJ60+ and drop just another $400 or so to get out of the Hayward ecosystem. Then your cell exchanges will be at least $200 less than Hayward cells down the road. Circupool works as well and lasts as long as Hayward does.

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kevmck said:

Knowing that, the board already handles T15 - there is no downside to leaving the board I have in place? (unless of course it breaks)

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PoolGate said:

Ha ha yes me as well. All my phones have been Samsung. I just bought my replacement for the one I fried - S23. Be here this week. I am a glutton for punishment I guess.

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mknauss said:

I would get a T15. You will have to run the pump close to 24 hours per day with a smaller cell.

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mknauss said:

Welcome to the forum!
In our climate get the T15. The FC loss per day is higher here and that way you will not have to run the pump as much each day.
To keep the cell from scaling up, you need to manage your water chemistry. I suggest you get your own test kit. See Pool Test Kits - Further Reading
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

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Jimrahbe said:

PG,

There ya go... blaming the phone again...

I would not have a phone if it were not a Samsung phone..

Just saying..

Jim R.

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theskyisthelimit99 said:

I had previously had some rust on the upper t part of the bar at the top of the pool, i've managed to get around most of that through repeated rustoleam year after year (on year 9 now believe it or not).. i'm trying to get 2-3 more years out of this if i can (cause otherwise i have to tear it down and replace it entirely i guess, or go from 18 to 24 foot ideally which means modifying the deck).

I noticed that 2 of the bars where they go in the ground have rusted out that half the material is gone, though if i give it a good shake i think its still stable. The deck adds support to the one side, these two are on the open back side.

I'm wondering if i could or even should, try pounding in some sort of (metal?) stake just in front of these two supports and maybe somehow tying them together, though my concern is disturbing the base area where the rusted part is, i think it may work?

Also thought, at least for the one support at ground level that has lost material, maybe there is some sort of spray that would harden i could fill that area with?
For the spots on the upper part of the bar (vertical) that have some serious rust and erosion, thinking maybe some sort of clamp with ties could be put around that area to add strength? ("hole clamps or bigger ones with something in between that can loop around it ")

***
I did see one other post of someone that actually used wood (vertical) and a wood clamp at the top (replaced whole pole all the way around, but i dont want to get into that), i guess a similar thing could be done for one or two but the wood vertical post would have to be in the ground a good 2 or 3 feet maybe and some cement, that would add obvious support "behind" the existing vertical bar, i think. I may try this but avoid digging and somehow put a brace around the base of both the wood and existing metal pole so the cement can harden into a "Boot"


Anyone ever salvaged a few supports like this by adding something else? I think its fine for this season, but beyond that, i dont know how critical one or two supports would be and dont want to find out
Ill add photos later

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JamesW said:

They who?

File a warranty claim.

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