Intex 18 foot pool, support bars rust/hollowed out from rust near base now, adding supplemental replacement exterior support?

I had previously had some rust on the upper t part of the bar at the top of the pool, i've managed to get around most of that through repeated rustoleam year after year (on year 9 now believe it or not).. i'm trying to get 2-3 more years out of this if i can (cause otherwise i have to tear it down and replace it entirely i guess, or go from 18 to 24 foot ideally which means modifying the deck).

I noticed that 2 of the bars where they go in the ground have rusted out that half the material is gone, though if i give it a good shake i think its still stable. The deck adds support to the one side, these two are on the open back side.

I'm wondering if i could or even should, try pounding in some sort of (metal?) stake just in front of these two supports and maybe somehow tying them together, though my concern is disturbing the base area where the rusted part is, i think it may work?

Also thought, at least for the one support at ground level that has lost material, maybe there is some sort of spray that would harden i could fill that area with?
For the spots on the upper part of the bar (vertical) that have some serious rust and erosion, thinking maybe some sort of clamp with ties could be put around that area to add strength? ("hole clamps or bigger ones with something in between that can loop around it ")

***
I did see one other post of someone that actually used wood (vertical) and a wood clamp at the top (replaced whole pole all the way around, but i dont want to get into that), i guess a similar thing could be done for one or two but the wood vertical post would have to be in the ground a good 2 or 3 feet maybe and some cement, that would add obvious support "behind" the existing vertical bar, i think. I may try this but avoid digging and somehow put a brace around the base of both the wood and existing metal pole so the cement can harden into a "Boot"


Anyone ever salvaged a few supports like this by adding something else? I think its fine for this season, but beyond that, i dont know how critical one or two supports would be and dont want to find out :D
Ill add photos later

EDIT: here are some photos
with these i've already put more rustoleum around the affected areas, here in the ground the back side is rusted out and broke away, just in front of that rock.
20250519_181017_001.jpg
This is typical rust at one or two joints like this, its also up on the tbars on a few spots, but i've kept up with those and the joints more so, its in the ground on the others i have no idea the status except the two i can see like the one above. The other one in the ground you can see rust (not shown here) but nothing material wise broke away.

20250519_181153.jpg

Color Blind - Help?!

He was so funny!
"Wait... these are all the same color - what do you mean there are different colors" when holding the pH block... his wife and I got a kick out of that - esp. because the pH was WAY beyond 8.2 (super hot pink).

I think the TA test would be the one he struggles with the most - that Green to Red might be the hill he dies on. I can hear him now "IT NEVER CHANGED!!!" as we're cackling in the background because it changed like 27 drops ago...

The FC shouldn't be an issue - if it's bright pink and then NOT then we know we have chlorine. (We did this test - and they had Zero FC in their pool - and judging by the swamp situation, that didn't surprise me).
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW

BECSys 5 controller

Welcome to TFP.

@Lake Placid you have experience with BECS?

I suggest you contact them directly…

Contact Us​

BECS Technology, Inc.​

  • (314) 567-0088
  • [email protected]
  • 10818 Midwest Industrial Blvd.
    Saint Louis, Missouri 63132

Pool Installation Issues

I am installing a 15x30 AGP. This is the 3rd pool I have installed myself. Our first was a 15x30 oval, the pool this is replacing was a 27' round. We got the pool used last summer - we knew that we were taking the 27' pool down in the fall. The seller did not know the brand and did not have the instructions. I found the instructions for my first pool and used those dimensions to lay out the blocks for the legs. I ran into two problems yesterday. The first is with the outside end of the legs aligned with the edge of the block the dimension across the pool is 12" too short. I rechecked all my string lines and they are accurate to the instructions I have, so the problem is the legs are a slightly different design. I think the bottom edge is longer on the outside of the leg. The other problem is the legs are too far apart. The metal plates that go between the legs I can see where they were mounted to the legs. Unlike the previous pool I had they attach so the legs land in the middle of each plate and the plates overlap and are screwed together between the legs. My previous pool the ends of the plates landed on each leg. This pool where I spaced the legs they don't line up with the marks on the plates. The legs are too far apart so the bottom wall track pieces that go between the legs are too short based on the leg spacing right now.

I will need to reset the blocks. I can get the dimensions measuring the plates but would prefer the instructions if possible. Is there any way to identify the maker of the pool? The top rail is metal not plastic.

Pool refilled and PH not respond to acid yet

Your TA of 210 is rapidly raising your pH.

Are you testing your pH 30 minutes after adding acid?

Test pH and add acid in 30 minute cycles and you should get your pH into the 7s. But it will bounce back up in a day due to your high TA.

Here is the process to lower TA. But if you have high TA fill water it will be a continuous battle.

  • Like
Reactions: Jb48560

IMG_5699.jpeg

IMG_5700.jpeg

IMG_5701.jpeg

PXL_20250519_131255761.MP.jpg

PXL_20250519_130706430.jpg

Pentair EasyTouch 8 520657

Thanks for the quick responses! It has been working for the last two days so not sure what is going on (I’d think if it was electrical, it would be binary - either work or not but who knows). See attached pictures and let me know if that helps. Please note that the extra breaker at the bottom was giving me trouble (kept tripping), therefore, removed from the power source).

Attachments

  • IMG_3297.jpeg
    IMG_3297.jpeg
    446.7 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3296.jpeg
    IMG_3296.jpeg
    483.4 KB · Views: 6

Relay Equipment Manager (nodejs-poolController sister app) seems broken on latest RPI OS

Pretty sure it's the OS, not the rpi hardware.

You can tell what version you're running by using the cmd

cat /etc/os-release

1747660196848.png

It works fine on Bullseye, not on Bookworm.

I think the way REM writes to GPIO is now obsolete--at least that's the way I interpret this thread:

Stop using /sys/class/gpio – it’s deprecated

which seems to say writing to /sys/class/gpio (like is done is onfof.js in REM) is obsolete.

I'm thinking about changing that code to use pigpio library to communicate with the GPIO. That would make the REM less vulnerable to hardware and OS changes--pigpio isolates the details from the application code.

I'm good at C and C++ but not nodejs stuff REM is using. I'm pretty sure I could figure it out, but I'd rather get the attention of the developers @rstrouse and at least get confirmation I'm going down the right path before I spend what will probably be a couple of days on it.

What is the recommended level of CH on vinyl pool, with Ti heat pump

This does not apply to Heat Pumps, electric heaters, or solar heaters."

These is no chemical reason for needing CH in those devices.

Does that mean I can "ignore" Jandy's recommendations? Or should I raise the level to the 200 or 300 level?
That is up to you.

Jandy and other manufacturers tend to simply cut and paste the same generic water chemistry recommendations in all their products. They do not tailor them to a specific product need.

Pool rail woes

Saftron will custom make rails to your spec.


They may also have an off the shelf solution.


SR Smith may have an option as well, they can also customize.

Pool refilled and PH not respond to acid yet

Good morning! Refilled pool about 80-90% due to high CYA. It was filled again by this Saturday morning. I Added about 3 pounds CYA this weekend to get it back up as nothing showed on CYA test (as expected) after the refill. I have been adding a quart or so of acid each day since according to pool math to start working down the PH. So far PH is just fluctuating between 8.3 and 8.4. I have been adding liquid chlorine as recommended each day as well. Anything else I can do to assist in lowering my PH? Am I being impatient lol? My test readings are attached here. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Attachments

  • IMG_2537.jpeg
    IMG_2537.jpeg
    143.3 KB · Views: 13

IMG_2537.jpeg

image.jpg

Filter