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Hayward OmniLogic Coneection Issue?

ckendalls
PoolBrews said:
What your are seeing with the IP is that the IP has been handed out (i.e. allocated), not that is necessarily connected. Your router will display allocated IP's for a period of time dictated by settings in the router. Many routers are set to retain allocated dynamic IP's for quite a long time - some until the next reboot.

With a signal strength of 0% showing, you have no connection. It could be an issue with your antenna, or with the circuit board that handles the antenna. How is your antenna mounted - can you attach pic? Our builder mounted it on the side of the steel enclosure with the antenna mounted such that the tops of the antenna didn't extend above the box. Steel kills wifi. I only had a signal strength of 20%. I remounted mine so that the entire antenna rods are above the enclosure. Signal strength is now 86%.

When my builder stopped by for a different issue, I explained what I did and why I did it. They now install all new systems this way.
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That sounds reasonable but after the failed attempt at static IP everything just worked in dynamic and the antenna looked connected with good signal and using same IP.🤷🏽 Actually I don’t know where my antennae is and was assuming its internal. The router is close on the other side of a wall.
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Pentair TM-22 Spider gasket change

H
I have a tagelus ta100d tank, and Pentair TM-22 multivalve. On every video I’ve watched on how to change the spider gasket, they always say you need to bleed out the air pressure from the filter. However neither my sand filter or multivalve have a bleed valve. However neither do I do this, or do I need to be concerned about it. Thank you in advance.
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Hayward OmniLogic Coneection Issue?

ckendalls
ajw22 said:
You sure that was not an old connection?

Could you ping the IP shown?
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Yes and yes. 🤷🏽. I re set and relogged into the same SSID, which was frustrating because the pad was so sluggish and intermittently responsive until I tried and failed to go static IP which failed. Then everything worked dynamic IP without relogging in…
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Screenshot_20250513_075648_Chrome.jpg

Newdude
Screenshot_20250513_075648_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20250513_075649_Chrome.jpg

Newdude
Screenshot_20250513_075649_Chrome.jpg

Hayward OmniLogic Coneection Issue?

PoolBrews
What your are seeing with the IP is that the IP has been handed out (i.e. allocated), not that is necessarily connected. Your router will display allocated IP's for a period of time dictated by settings in the router. Many routers are set to retain allocated dynamic IP's for quite a long time - some until the next reboot.

With a signal strength of 0% showing, you have no connection. It could be an issue with your antenna, or with the circuit board that handles the antenna. How is your antenna mounted - can you attach pic? Our builder mounted it on the side of the steel enclosure with the antenna mounted such that the tops of the antenna didn't extend above the box. Steel kills wifi. I only had a signal strength of 20%. I remounted mine so that the entire antenna rods are above the enclosure. Signal strength is now 86%.

When my builder stopped by for a different issue, I explained what I did and why I did it. They now install all new systems this way.
Click to expand...
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Hayward OmniLogic Coneection Issue?

ckendalls
ajw22 said:
The SSID being — indicates it was not connected to your network.

Like it was not setup with the correct SSID and password.
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Except it actually was. When I looked at network setup it was connected and I could reconnect and also see it on the router side despite what this showed. Whatever this issue was it also caused the OmniLogic control pad to be sluggish very non responsive.
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SPA Light Turning on by Itself

T
Installed a new PAL evenglow spa light. It has a remote no wifi.
I took the line voltage out of old lights junction box and ran it to the transformer.
Light works fine with the remote but the light comes on at night by itself.
The line power is coming out of a Aqualink controller that is 25 years old.
I have cleared all the programs, turned on the landscape lighting as the
power for them come from the Aqualink box but that did not turn on the spa light.
Any help would be appreciated!
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Just want to confirm my Reagent are good

R
mknauss said:
Should be.
Best practice is to buy a complete set of refills each year when TFTestkits runs the spring sale. Typically month of march.

The R0870 powder and the R0014 pH reagent
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proavia said:
How/where do you store them when it's not winter?
Best storage for reagents is in a climate controlled space - inside the house.
Mine stay indoors and I test everything at the kitchen sink - except the CYA test, which I do outdoors after I mix the pool water and reagent.
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I store mine in the garage during the summer away from sunlight. Typically when the temps do not drop below 60 outside at night is when I move it out there. We are in Michigan so days typically don't go above 90 degrees and once it hits mid 80s we keep the garage closed up to keep it cooler in there since our garage is under our bedrooms and the temp in the garage effects our house temperature.
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What did you do to your pool today?

Dirk
Newdude said:
Take the extra plug to a plumbing supply house and they'll Frankenpipe you somehow.
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Might work. And @proavia and I are in a PM discussing options, too. Like finding a 1.5" MIP plug that has enough meat on it to tap some NPT threads into it. Problems is, there are lots of articles about MIP (or NPS, or any number of other seemingly similar thread codes (confusing as all get out)), but not any actual MIP parts that are for sale, let alone the exact MIP to NPT reducer needed. MIP, or NPS, is a thing, obviously, but it's not commonly used. Everything is tapered. I see some straight thread stuff for hydraulics, and for fire hoses, but that's about it. And nothing in the way of what is needed to fit under a Pentair filter.

I think I understand why Pentair chose this thread. It's a pressure vessel and is better served by a plug with an o-ring, than one with tapered threads. Plus, those straight threads, with the o-ring, are already stripping out on too many users, imagine if it was tapered threads and folks were cranking down on the plug to get it to seal.

The consensus is: be very careful when installing the plug, and hand-tighten only (which is what I did and will do).
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Pumping to Waste below the skimmers

S
Using an older Standard Hayward DE filter (60 sq ft). It only has the Down/up, push pull waste drain valve.

Q1. If I Drain to Waste for an extended period (say an hour or two) in order to drain down my pool a significant amount, will this possibly cause any damage to the filter element Grids?

Q2. If I drain below the skimmers using the "Drain to waste" method, is it safe to just shut off the return line to the skimmers at the pump, and direct it 100% to the main drains? I also have a spa, I guess I would need to isolate these floor returns also?
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Sundance sentry 850

A
Hi everyone,


I’m having an issue with my Sundance Sentry 850 hot tub. Everything is working perfectly except for Pump 2.

When I activate Pump 2 from the control panel, the display shows that it’s turned on and then switches to the clock display, but the pump doesn’t actually run.

Here’s what I’ve checked so far:

  • The pump itself is functional
  • Wiring is intact
  • Relay is working
  • Diode bridge is fine
  • Capacitor is OK
  • Circuit board looks good visually

Despite all this, it seems that no signal is being sent to activate Pump 2.

Has anyone encountered this before or have any suggestions on what to check next?
Thanks in advance!
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Bead Blasting

S
JoyfulNoise said:
The amount of money you’d have to spend buying or renting the equipment to do it would not make it economical and you can easily damage tile if you don’t know what you’re doing. Better to just pay a pro to do it and leave them with the liability.
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Good deal, I appreciate the response. I had a seen a video of a guy using a set up from harbor freight for about 100 bucks... and it seemed to work pretty well. If damaging is a concern though, i will probably pass.
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Waterfall disaster

T
Hello,

I started a pond/waterfall build in my backyard. The waterfall feature is approximately 6 feet high with multiple different levels that cascade down to the pond. I wanted to use a sand filter/pump combo that I had lying around for the build. The pump is a XtremepowerUS 3/4HP swimming pool pump (2400GPH). The inlet line is drawing water from approximately 10 feet away. Then the water is pushed through my sand filter and then the outlet shoots up 6 feet to the top of my waterfall.

My issue is the water flow. Once it starts going, the water flow rushes over the edge and shoots out into the pond/surrounding area and skips the entire water feature.

I have very little pump knowledge and looking for suggestions. I can get my hands on another pool pump which is around 1500 GPH. Could this fix my issue? I don't want if I go too low in power/GPH because I'm worried that it won't be strong enough to push the water up high enough?

Another possible idea I was thinking of was to put a "T" valve in the outlet line after the filter. Then have one hose running up the 6 feet to the top of the waterfall and the second hose either running back into the pond or to a different spot of the waterfall. Trying to divert half the water away from the top of the waterfall in hopes to lower the flow of the water. My question with this idea is, if I have two different hoses at two different heights will the pump still pump water to both areas or will the water just go to the easiest (lowest) hose?

PLEASE! any help would be appreciated.
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Trouble With FC Test TF-Pro Kit

S
13 lbs of Cal-Hypo last night??? Hope that is a mistype.

@JamesW is the pro - so if he says to do the SLAM, do it and not worry about ammonia.

Off to Ocean State for you today, to buy several cases of Liquid CL.
808 E Street Rd, Warminster, PA 18974

Your CH should have increased by about 40 in about the last day due to the Cal-Hypo (assuming the 13 was really 3). Still fine now, but need to stop it or by the end of the SLAM you could be in a bad spot. Then the only option is to partially drain the pool. As noted, the slower dissolve/incorporation will always keep you behind the curve in hitting your SLAM targets.

Retest your CYA, but bring the sample inside and let it warm up first. It can be affected by cooler water. Your pool isn't all that cold, so it may not change, but good to verify.
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