Welcome to TFP.

Copper in pools do not come from trees or mulch. Read...


Confirm they are copper stains with...

Demand of 4.5 isn’t unheard of, but seems high for spring in tx

What is your cya? May be low.

Dose above range so you are IN range wwhen you test.

I’d also do an OCLT. Link—->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

The pool was originally built with a pressure-side cleaner system. There are 5 jets in the pool — 4 are connected to the filter return, and the 5th appears to be a dedicated return line likely used with a pressure cleaner.
At some point, a corded robotic cleaner (Polaris P945) replaced that setup. However, I'm not getting good cleaning performance. The robot seems to miss dirt — it looks like the debris just settles back to the floor the next day.
I’ve also used the 5th jet in the past to vacuum debris straight out of the pool (to waste), but the water drains too quickly, and the hose often blows off or breaks due to pressure, even with strong clamps.
Now, I’m questioning whether my filter system is working correctly. The water is cloudy even though pool chemistry is in range. Fine dirt reappears on the floor a day after cleaning. It makes me wonder if:

• My cartridges are damaged or bypassing dirt somehow.
• There may be a leak or internal failure in the filter housing.

I’d love advice on:

• How to test the filter to see if it’s working properly (before replacing cartridges or the whole unit).
• Whether I should consider re-activating the pressure-side cleaner line with the right equipment.
• The best way to vacuum to waste without draining too much water or breaking hoses.

Thanks in advance — I really want to get this pool back in shape as I've struggled with the dirt on the floor every year. I replaced the cartridges in 2023. I clean them once a month using the garden hose.

Dirty filter, clogged skimmers.

Can you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

The Calimar pump is almost exclusively sold by Pool Supply Unlimited. Look for the "parts available" link to view which parts are available, and scroll down to related items to find the automation adapter.

The automation adapter aloows the use of third-party automation controllers to provide of pump speeds via relays.

Benny07 said:

Well when I vacuum the pool the stuff at the bottom goes into a cloud and passes through the bag on my pool blaster which is what's confusing me as to what it is.

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What bag are you using in your Pool Baster cleaner?

Chris,

Until recently I had three saltwater pools that all had IntelliChlor SWCGs.. I had the pools for well over 12 years, so I have been through a few cells.

Not one of them lasted less than 5 years, most died at about 7 years with one lasting for almost 9 years.

I say this because something it wrong... I have no idea what, but 7 cells in less than a year, just make no sense at all..

Tell us how the cell is powered.. Do you have an EasyTouch with an Internal power supply or do you have an External Power Center?

Has the power center been replaced or tested?

Have you been cleaning your cell with full strength Muriatic Acid?

Does you cell quickly fill up with calcium?

Do you have an acid feeder?

What chemicals do you use to maintain your pH?

Tell us more about what is going on?

I can understand how it is possible to have a 'bad' cell.. but it is impossible to have 7 bad cells..

Thanks,

Jim R.

I just read that post cover to cover. That's awesome. Thank you.

There is a significant amount of algae in the pool...that's what we are working on. How does algae cause the air issues?

JRzMom said:

I test almost daily for FC, but I find the R-0870 powder doesn't keep well. I'm thinking of buying a 16 oz. size and refilling the kit as needed. Is that worth it, or will it go bad? I try to be careful with moisture, but I guess I'm not careful enough. Also, how do you keep the scoop clean? It gets all gunked up. Do you wash it and dry it well before putting it back in the kit? Any suggestions for keeping the moisture out? I've read a few posts about using one of those silicone pouches taped to the lid, doing the test indoors (away from humidity), etc. What works, and most importantly, should I buy the 16 oz. size?

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My 2 cents...

After looking at prices of the smaller containers compared to the larger ones, I took a risk nearly 4 years ago and bought .25lb R0870 powder and 16 oz. R0871 reagent. I shared some with my F.I.L. and have been using the reagents since. I didn't expect to use it for more than a couple years, but there was still value in the purchase of the larger sizes. I have purchased a couple of TF-100 refill kits since then and have compared the results to the fresh reagents. I'm still getting expected results. I always have fresh clean white powder. I'm glad I made the purchase. I can test as frequently as I want and run my own experiments without the fear of running out of reagent. I keep the large containers of reagents in a dark dry indoor storage cabinet. YMMV

Thanks Jeff. I ordered these with the new Stenner injector and will be swapping out today to see how performance "hopefully" improves with just enough backpressure to push open the check valve if it isn't due to aged pumped tubes... stay tuned.

Following as we are looking at doing pavers and I hate to deal with pavers's on sand.
But didn't think about doing a concrete base, then pavers over sand

Thank you for your response. I figured out my issue and will post it here in case someone runs into a similar problem:

I had to disconnect the power cable from behind the main control panel and connect that power cable to the 5254 relay board, then the 5254 relay board has a similar cable that you connect to the back of the main control panel where you just removed the aforementioned main cable, thus completing the power circuit. In hindsight this should have been obvious but at first I thought the 5254 board would get power from the Aux plug alone.

Do an OCLT. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
You Fail, You Slam. Link-->SLAM Process
Personally, with visible algae, I'd just start the SLAM.

Those aren't the results we would typically see from the Taylor K1766 test kit. How did you test for salt?

I just did some re-piping as well. First I would say the goal is to fully seat connections. Also, be sure to use the ratchet cutter properly, as even that makes a difference on the cuts. I say that because I made the mistake of not paying attention to that. So I try have everything measured, pre cut, cleaned and ready to go. Without any glue- loosely dry fit to give yourself a final visual of what the connection will look like, and what is the best way to assemble it. Try to give yourself as much room to work as possible, if you can assemble one end of connection away from its final connection point (sometimes could be the inverse of this)- do that first usually a coupling or 90. But, be sure you dry fit it first. I say loosely bcz aren’t easy to pull apart dry. So, deep breath, slow down, one end at a time. Prime (usually the purple)both the fixed, and new, then swirl the blue glue, don’t need to get crazy with it . A nice even coat, maybe three swirls up, then as u push in u want to be turning your pipe/connecrtion to the fixed end slowly as u push in (turn to right or left, threse aren’t threaded- but I just stick w righty tighty). I think straight cuts , clean off both ends of connection. Prime . Conserve glue. Forgive yourself. There’s plenty more PVC pipe out there. Hope this helps.

Jimrahbe said:

Kim,

Welcome to TFP... a great place to learn how to maintain your new pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Thanks for the welcome.

ajw22 said:

You need a pool cleaner to vacuum the pool and pickup the stuff that settles to the bottom of the pool.

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Well when I vacuum the pool the stuff at the bottom goes into a cloud and passes through the bag on my pool blaster which is what's confusing me as to what it is.