Do I have a problem...

Good morning. I just recently bought a house which has a new pool. I used to own a home that had a pool so I participated on this forum probably 15 years ago and used the BBB back then. I bought a Taylor K-2006 and have been testing regularly. My current issue is water color. Please see the attached pictures of a section of the pool. The night time picture from last night and the daytime picture from this morning. As you can see, the night pic has a green tint which is very visible from the pool light. The daytime pic does not show that coloring at all. When I first noticed this a few days ago I thought algae so I did a SLAM and raised my CL to 24 (CYA is 60) and kept it there for 24 hours. There was some CL usage but not a lot. After a day and no change to the night color, I did the OCLT and FC did not change overnight and there was no CC. My current numbers are:

FC: 15
CC:0
pH: 7.8
TA: 80
CH: 225
CYA: 60

I have not tested for metals as it was something I did not need to do years ago. I have not added any sort of algaecide but that doesn't mean that the prior owner did not. Could this be what is causing this green tint color? Again, I do not see this color at all during the day.

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Is there a more accurate cya test than the Taylor kit?

Do you have the 50ppm CYA Standard solution?

I have often checked my eyeballs and lighting by using the standard solution. Since it’s known to be 50ppm, you mix it up with the reagent and then fill the tube to the 50ppm mark. Then you go outside and look at the tube. Find the best lighting and distance from your eyeballs that gives no dot at 50ppm. It’s a good way to check yourself and gain confidence.

Make sure you’re following the directions with regard to holding the tube properly and at the proper distance from your eyes as well as not staring intently at the tube forcing your brain to “see” a dot.

It’s not the greatest test but it’s generally close enough for what is needed.

scaling stained from algae

Thanks for the reply! I do have a heater. It is about 20 years old, Hayward H150. Minimum recommended is 7.2 from this very old user manual I found.
Put in a Heater Bypass - Further Reading to protect the heater while you clear the scale.

Understand that calcium scale in the heat exchanger protects it and is a benefit. You want a layer of protective calcium in the heater. So what you do to rid the pool of scale goes the wrong way for the heater.

Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

Better to leave the cover off and let the pool breathe during SLAM. The exposure to UV also helps in removing any buildup of cc's you might have.

How did CYA change? There is no new test logged. What additional 10 CYA?
Monday calculated and added 8lbs of dry acid to achieve a CYA of 30 in a 28k gallon pool.
Tuesday nights test resulted in 40 CYA in my now 22k gallon pool.

SLAM

On the PM app, on the FC icon, do you switch on the SLAM mode? That will give you the higher SLAM level for FC.
If you add LC per the recommendation it should get close to the targeted FC level - unless the LC is old (degraded) or your pool volume is slightly off.
yes for my cya it says FC 13, typically then adding 3.5 gallons 10% liquid chlorine since Monday. Ive gone through 18 gal which seems crazy!

Trouble With FC Test TF-Pro Kit

I filled the cya tube all the way to the top and that’s the only way the black dot disappeared so I’m guessing I’m around 20 or less than that.
Go to this link and print out the instructions. Having a hard copy helps. Link-->SLAM Process
Add 20ppm of CYA, use the sock method.
Once the CYA is in the pool, start the slam. Target is 12.
After 30 minutes, start squeezing the sock.
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New chlorinator water readings

After 8 years our chlorinator went out. We bought a new one that will generate enough chlorine for up to a 35K pool. We have a 15K above ground oval pool. Of course right now we have a lot of algae as 2 floaters with chlorine tabs wasn't enough. All chemicals are within normal readings.
We Installed the new chlorinator yesterday 5/13/25.
My question is should water coming out of the intake have any measurable chlorine in it? We have it on boost.
How do I know it is working?
Also, should I go ahead and slam the pool now or wait until the generator produces enough chlorine?
Also, how long does it take for the generator to produce enough chlorine?

Kem-Tek Brand MA was 31.45%, now 14.5% at Lowe’s

That language is on the website. Not on the box or display in my local store.
The % was eveidentally on the bottle. We recommend to always check every label on every chemical added. Even if its 'your brand'. Good job there. (y)
whoever keeps changing my thread title please stop.
I didn't, but if a Mod edits you per the rules, they're just trying to help make sure the rules are followed.

Just now, I did edit the title to be less rant-y as per rule # 4

4. No strongly positive or negative posts about a product or company are permitted from members with little involvement on the forum. We simply cannot determine the accuracy of your post. Further, any post for the sole reason of defaming another party or presenting only your side of a disagreement will be deleted without notice.

Bad Plaster Job?

Last May I had my 25,000 gunite pool replastered, followed all maintenance instructions, with no issues. I opened pool last week and while removing the plugs from the return I noticed the walls were rough and not smooth as they were after the job was finished and throughout the season last year. Also, my Dolphin robot has been picking up a lot of what appears to be white looking sand. I have had sand in the pool before due to the filter but it was more of a brown color and below the returns. I was just told they use sand in the replastering jobs. Is this a result of a poor job ? Thanks

Treat or drain?

wondering when I should add stabilizer to bring up the CYA
Right away once you can get a reliable baseline in full overhead sun. Count it as added as soon as its soaking.


Also when should I be concerned with PH, TA, all other tests?
Test them up and report back.

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