Clean and clear 320 cartridge filter clamp won’t budge

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Upgrading Compool 3800 system

Curious what others would recommend to upgrade a client from the compool 3800 system. Intellicenter? Their system consists of a single speed whisperflo, hayward aquarite salt cell, pentair MT250 heater (older/fireman switch connection).

As part of the compool system, it includes a pool side display/control panel. I assume if I were to go to an intellicenter system with the wired wall mounted remote (522035), that I would not be able to use whatever wire/connections is currently in the wall for the compool system, and it would need to be re-ran. I see Pentair also has a wireless remote option (522036), but that it requires a cradle, but I suppose a small shelf could be built on the wall and a plug added to be able to power that. Anyway, thinking through options.

Automatic Pool Cover Lid for Pavers - Ideas for cover to hold pavers

Though he didn't show the bracket setup in relation to the trays, I am certain the arrangement is to have each tray separate, not welded. And each tray would cover half of two brackets. The brackets get shared between two trays with each taking up half of bracket surface. At the ends of course, the end bracket is used solely by that end tray. It's essentially the same as mine except the trays with stones take the place of my stones alone.

Primers, Cements, and Glue, oh my.

I've seen videos with pool-tite, and with 746 heavy gray, 744 medium gray, purple primer, clear primer, clear cement, etc.
I'd love to get clear primer and cement, but I can't seem to find any (unless I'm spending over $75, I guess.)

What's the recommended choice (for the equipment pad)? I prefer clear, but I imagine I can either be careful, or have too many drips showing, or clean it up afterward with sandpaper, or paint over it.

Also, I see a few videos where people are spraying their plumbing afterward. Is that some type of clearcoat protectant, or is that a basic paint with added UV protection stuff, to ... protect the plumbing from UV? Is that something that is done often?

Thanks. Psyching myself up for the big (or rather, compact) pad replumb.
If you go with either of the grays, be sure to allow the joint to set overnight. The gray was originally designed for use by electricians on gray PVC conduit but people started using it on the pool industry because it is a slow-setting compound that allows a fitting to be taken apart quickly if things don't line up. I've seen them blow apart two days after a repair in pool use in the Winter.

Personally have never used them because I'm impatient and like to test a system as quickly as I can after a repair/re-plumb. A "Red Hot Blue" will allow that. Having to come back the next day is non-productive, especially if the job is a long distance.

From one suppliers website about the gray:
Product Description
This pipe cement is only for PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic pipe in pressurized DWV (drainage, waste, and vent) systems.

Checkin in from South Louisiana

Welcome to TFP!!!

Has the builder completed the startup process? Whatever startup process that is being used needs to be follow for the first 30 days.

Assuming you are out of the 30 days, a couple great places to start:
Also...Link-->Pool Care Basics

Robotic Pool cleaner or skimmer for sun ledge

Thank yall for the replies. My polaris robotic does a great job on the walls it can get to (front and left)but I have a shelf bench around the right and back side of my rectangular pool. The cleaner reaches the top of the shelf and then retreats back into the pool, it won’t stay there and climb the wall even though its completely submerged on the shelf. The sunledge is also on the right and fits 3 sunlounger chairs. The water depth there is 8 inches so a skimmer will work there but my cleaner will not. Those 2 walls get calcium build up since they don’t get the same attention as the other 2 walls. Im just tired of scrubbing the tile on those 2 sides. Help!

Spa spilling over into pool when it shouldn’t

Last week I had a new heater installed for a connected spa/pool with a single pump. There was no heater installed when we moved into the house 6 months ago.

The heater is a 260k BTU gas heater that will be only used to heat the spa. To heat the spa exclusively, I should be able to move valves to ‘spa return’ and ‘spa suction’ to run the filtration exclusively through the spa. However, once I move the valves, the water level rises and the spa spills over into the pool.

As the spa spills over into the pool, the spa water takes much longer to heat.

I can confirm that water does not appear to be going into the pool and that water is not flowing through the pool skimmers.

Is there a valve I’m missing? Is the spa suction not working? Hopefully someone can help point me in the right direction. The installer and heater distributor have been no help so far.,

IMG_8709c.jpeg

Help me please, I'm confused.

Looks like pool water with a metals problem, not algae. Emerald green clear water is caused by iron.


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Index GFCI plug failed inspection as plug is bigger than the box need solution

Help. I have a 12x24x52 inch intex above ground pool with sand filter and swg.
The electrical inspector just failed my inspection because I had to cut the bottom of the in use cover to accommodate this massive GFCI plug that Intex puts on these pumps. Do I really have to replace the end of the cord and void my warranty to pass inspection or is there some other way to pass? Is there a large enough UL listed outdoor box that will accommodate this 4 1/2 inch plug?

Diverter - Diverter for Sand Filter

My apologies for the late reply - I was out of town.

The 263053 would be the modern replacement for your WC12 push-pull valve. O-rings are available (and cheaper - and easier to install versus a new valve, unless there is a physical issue with the old one). I think your WC12 is the 1-1/2" version (you can verify it by taking the piston out and measuring the ID of the pipe) so it should use two #322 or O-321 O-rings (1-1/4" ID, 3/16" Cross Section; The 2" valve uses two #326 or O-112 O-rings (3/16" cross-section, 1-5/8" ID). Be sure to add lubricant to the surfaces so they operate easily and last longer.

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