Also wondering if you might have run a 4 conductor low voltage cable between the two controllers, such that perhaps the FPH is "thinking" that the a/c is cooling by way of picking up induced current in the 2nd pair of wires. Or the "commons" of those two 24vac circuits interfering with one another. Easy enough to test by temporarily running a dedicated cable from the heat pump back to fph with the former pair disconnected. Just an idea.

'A whole lotta littles makes a whole lotta lots'

(We're all volunteer here. Our dog in the fight is we like our hobby and don't want to have to find a new one).

Done. Only Bronze but hope it helps.

Maverick23 said:

I also had to wire in a relay to disconnect power to the hotspot because my heat pump has constant 24vac when the system is in AC mode. The control panel will remain powered on after the call for cooling is complete. I guess the 24vac from the sense wire for the reversing valve back feeds the controller.

Click to expand...

That seems so weird. I guess it seemed weird to you too. I don't know the heat pump control wiring intimately, but it seems like there must be 24vac some place in the heat pump that is only active during a home a/c cooling cycle. It also makes me wonder if somehow the internal FPH controller wiring has a mistake. But I'm also guessing you went through all that with great care. Of course your solution is cool, just that one would hope that extra relay would not be necessary, therefore not necessary to ever power off the FPH controller.

I don't know if this clarifies, but if my memory is correct, on my install the FPH controller was indeed always on, just that it would not send it's 24vac back to the a/c system (for the reversing valve and fan relay) unless conditions called for pool heat while home a/c is cooling. Of course, under that condition of pool heating, the FPH also closed the relay for the pump, which initially I had just wired in parallel with a mechanical time clock. As noted, when I went with VSP that changed. I don't know if that helps, as you've no doubt been through all that logic many times!

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Newdude said:

The black one is your heater drain plug, providing you have a heater.

Click to expand...

The white plugs look like pump drain plugs.

Look on the lower side under the pump lid.

Maybe a strongly worded “Cease and Desist” letter from your attorney is in order.

Raccoons are organized under the National Raccoon Association if you want to CC them as well.

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TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Funny enough the Building Official decided to pass us! But still suggested changing the box and I found that one on Amazon as well and sent it to my electrical contractor to see if that would work! I think I’m gonna go for that one!

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

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Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Thanks for all the replies. Maybe trapping is the way to go. Still thinking of other ideas too. There is a leaf net available. That might keep them out, and I might be able to attach it to the existing studs we use for the winter mesh safety cover.

Welcome to TFP.

Give us more details about what Hayward system you have controlling your UCL lights?

How old is your system and the lights?

I concur with @ajw22 on the iron. Entirely possible. However, you have visible algae (see below). Follow the slam process until you have no more visible algae, dead or alive, you pass OCLT and CC <=.5.

You might review these and put some polyfill in the skimmers:

A floor cleaner won't clean the tiles on the edges of your ledge. You need better water flow there and/or your water is out of balance. Now that you are a member here you need to get on board with testing your own water so that you can gain the confidence in how easy it is to maintain clean and sanitized water. Read the following links:
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

In these links you should find mention of CSI or Calcium Saturation Index. If you can keep that between -.3 and 0 you shouldn't have any precipitation of calcium onto the tiles. Now, CSI can be skewed by high CH or Calcium Hardness so that must be kept under control too.