Latest activity
Hello from Suffolk Park - Sunny Australia
- By Texas Splash
- Introduce Yourself
- 2 Replies
Welcome to TFP! 
How soon after exposed aggregate concrete pour can we install 3" brass screw in anchors for safety cover?
- By ajw22
- Everything Else
- 4 Replies
Concrete can take 28 days to fully cure…
www.troublefreepool.com
Watering New Gunite and Concrete - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Hotspot energy FPH install
- By Maverick23
- Everything Else
- 14 Replies
I have a pressure switch calibrated for my flow rate that will break the 24vac to the recovery valve and fan relay in the event the flow is not high enough.As Matt (@JoyfulNoise) states, there are tons of tips and explanations across hundreds of posts in those search results, all worth a careful read-through – or two (three?) read-throughs
In those many threads I’m not sure we ever summarized it well. So here goes: The supplied FPH controller does a few things. First it senses whether your HVAC is running by means of the 24VAC from the condenser unit contactor, as @Maverick23 states. And of course the FPH controller also senses your pool temp. The FPH controller also has a heat temperature setting in a PID controller (it’s really just an elaborate thermometer with relay contacts). If your HVAC is running and the PID temp setting calls for pool heat, the FPH controller does a few more things: First , it sends it’s own source of 24VAC back to the condenser unit to turn off the cooling fan and switch the refrigerant path to bypass your HVAC air cooled condenser coils and condense refrigerant through the new FPH heat exchanger. Under those conditions, the FPH controller also activates a relay to send 220Vac to a standard single speed pool pump (could be 120 or 240V). There are at least three ways to modify the wiring to drive a VSP. If you don’t want to modify the FPH relay wiring, you could add another relay that closes a pair of dry contacts when it gets the 120v (or 240) from the FPH relay. Those dry contacts then tell the VSP to come on and I believe most or all VSP’s and automation systems offer the dry contact sensing. The 2nd way, what I did when I first added a VSP, is to modify the FPH relay so that instead of sending 220v to the pump, that rewired relay became the dry contact closure device, using only one pole of that FPH relay to do so. In the end however, I just ran my VSP 7x24 on a low speed. But, as I documented in later threads, the 24Vac sent back to the hvac system should first be wired through a pressure or flow switch, so that the refrigerant path only switches to the FPH heat exchanger when there is true water flow. Back when I implemented, FPH ignored flow which leaves you vulnerable to AC failure (compressor overheat/overpressure) if the pump fails to start, which in my experience VSP’s are prone to do. But all pumps fail at some point, so logic is needed to keep the hvac from switching to FPH if flow is not happening. They also sell inexpensive delay modules that might also be a good addition to that flow path, so that the pump has time to prime and fully create flow before switching the refrigerant path.
It's not rocket science but it is nontrivial, best handled by an electrician and/or pool pump person with similar knowledge or experience, at least for the pool/pump interfaces. More difficult is the installation of the sporlan refrigerant valve and check valve(s) that are brazed in place to reroute refrigerant. That requires an epa608 certified hvac tech to remove/recover current refrigerant, install the sporlan valve and, as necessary refrigerant check valve(s), then re-charge refrigerant and test all functionality. For some of us, finding an HVAC tech willing to do that work can be the toughest part (think of a tech familiar with “heat recovery” systems). When found, that tech will want to work hourly and they likely will need to speak with FPH experts about check valve dependencies and such, depending on your hvac design. Back when I did it, I learned enough to be the go-between interface between FPH techs and local HVAC tech – and I had a very good hvac tech. Somewhere in all those posts I included what it cost me for all that, including tech labor.
I think most of us got all that worked out before buying the FPH, but I applaud your gumption if you just dove in!
I also had to wire in a relay to disconnect power to the hotspot because my heat pump has constant 24vac when the system is in AC mode. The control panel will remain powered on after the call for cooling is complete. I guess the 24vac from the sense wire for the reversing valve back feeds the controller. Hotspot sent me a new control panel after going round and round with them on this which still does the same thing. I put in a relay that breaks that connection. Problem solved but it kinda ****** me off that they were unaware of this and had no fix.
Straight ac wont have this issue though.
Dolphin Premiere vs Dolphin M600/E70 vs Dolphin Sigma
- By Jimrahbe
- Pool Cleaners
- 1 Replies
AT,
I vote none of the above.. See this review...
www.google.com
If I needed a new robot today, it would be the EVO..
Thanks,
Jim R.
I vote none of the above.. See this review...
New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review
About a month ago I needed a new robot pool cleaner and I contacted Margaret at Marina Pool and Spa. My initial goal was to buy another S200 "style" robot as I have been happy with them so far. Margaret suggested that I might want to look at a new line of robot cleaners that Marina is now...
www.google.com
If I needed a new robot today, it would be the EVO..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hotspot energy FPH install
- By nuttyp
- Everything Else
- 14 Replies
As Matt (@JoyfulNoise) states, there are tons of tips and explanations across hundreds of posts in those search results, all worth a careful read-through – or two (three?) read-throughs 
In those many threads I’m not sure we ever summarized it well. So here goes: The supplied FPH controller does a few things. First it senses whether your HVAC is running by means of the 24VAC from the condenser unit contactor, as @Maverick23 states. And of course the FPH controller also senses your pool temp. The FPH controller also has a heat temperature setting in a PID controller (it’s really just an elaborate thermometer with relay contacts). If your HVAC is running and the PID temp setting calls for pool heat, the FPH controller does a few more things: First , it sends it’s own source of 24VAC back to the condenser unit to turn off the cooling fan and switch the refrigerant path to bypass your HVAC air cooled condenser coils and condense refrigerant through the new FPH heat exchanger. Under those conditions, the FPH controller also activates a relay to send 220Vac to a standard single speed pool pump (could be 120 or 240V). There are at least three ways to modify the wiring to drive a VSP. If you don’t want to modify the FPH relay wiring, you could add another relay that closes a pair of dry contacts when it gets the 120v (or 240) from the FPH relay. Those dry contacts then tell the VSP to come on and I believe most or all VSP’s and automation systems offer the dry contact sensing. The 2nd way, what I did when I first added a VSP, is to modify the FPH relay so that instead of sending 220v to the pump, that rewired relay became the dry contact closure device, using only one pole of that FPH relay to do so. In the end however, I just ran my VSP 7x24 on a low speed. But, as I documented in later threads, the 24Vac sent back to the hvac system should first be wired through a pressure or flow switch, so that the refrigerant path only switches to the FPH heat exchanger when there is true water flow. Back when I implemented, FPH ignored flow which leaves you vulnerable to AC failure (compressor overheat/overpressure) if the pump fails to start, which in my experience VSP’s are prone to do. But all pumps fail at some point, so logic is needed to keep the hvac from switching to FPH if flow is not happening. They also sell inexpensive delay modules that might also be a good addition to that flow path, so that the pump has time to prime and fully create flow before switching the refrigerant path.
It's not rocket science but it is nontrivial, best handled by an electrician and/or pool pump person with similar knowledge or experience, at least for the pool/pump interfaces. More difficult is the installation of the sporlan refrigerant valve and check valve(s) that are brazed in place to reroute refrigerant. That requires an epa608 certified hvac tech to remove/recover current refrigerant, install the sporlan valve and, as necessary refrigerant check valve(s), then re-charge refrigerant and test all functionality. For some of us, finding an HVAC tech willing to do that work can be the toughest part (think of a tech familiar with “heat recovery” systems). When found, that tech will want to work hourly and they likely will need to speak with FPH experts about check valve dependencies and such, depending on your hvac design. Back when I did it, I learned enough to be the go-between interface between FPH techs and local HVAC tech – and I had a very good hvac tech. Somewhere in all those posts I included what it cost me for all that, including tech labor.
I think most of us got all that worked out before buying the FPH, but I applaud your gumption if you just dove in!
In those many threads I’m not sure we ever summarized it well. So here goes: The supplied FPH controller does a few things. First it senses whether your HVAC is running by means of the 24VAC from the condenser unit contactor, as @Maverick23 states. And of course the FPH controller also senses your pool temp. The FPH controller also has a heat temperature setting in a PID controller (it’s really just an elaborate thermometer with relay contacts). If your HVAC is running and the PID temp setting calls for pool heat, the FPH controller does a few more things: First , it sends it’s own source of 24VAC back to the condenser unit to turn off the cooling fan and switch the refrigerant path to bypass your HVAC air cooled condenser coils and condense refrigerant through the new FPH heat exchanger. Under those conditions, the FPH controller also activates a relay to send 220Vac to a standard single speed pool pump (could be 120 or 240V). There are at least three ways to modify the wiring to drive a VSP. If you don’t want to modify the FPH relay wiring, you could add another relay that closes a pair of dry contacts when it gets the 120v (or 240) from the FPH relay. Those dry contacts then tell the VSP to come on and I believe most or all VSP’s and automation systems offer the dry contact sensing. The 2nd way, what I did when I first added a VSP, is to modify the FPH relay so that instead of sending 220v to the pump, that rewired relay became the dry contact closure device, using only one pole of that FPH relay to do so. In the end however, I just ran my VSP 7x24 on a low speed. But, as I documented in later threads, the 24Vac sent back to the hvac system should first be wired through a pressure or flow switch, so that the refrigerant path only switches to the FPH heat exchanger when there is true water flow. Back when I implemented, FPH ignored flow which leaves you vulnerable to AC failure (compressor overheat/overpressure) if the pump fails to start, which in my experience VSP’s are prone to do. But all pumps fail at some point, so logic is needed to keep the hvac from switching to FPH if flow is not happening. They also sell inexpensive delay modules that might also be a good addition to that flow path, so that the pump has time to prime and fully create flow before switching the refrigerant path.
It's not rocket science but it is nontrivial, best handled by an electrician and/or pool pump person with similar knowledge or experience, at least for the pool/pump interfaces. More difficult is the installation of the sporlan refrigerant valve and check valve(s) that are brazed in place to reroute refrigerant. That requires an epa608 certified hvac tech to remove/recover current refrigerant, install the sporlan valve and, as necessary refrigerant check valve(s), then re-charge refrigerant and test all functionality. For some of us, finding an HVAC tech willing to do that work can be the toughest part (think of a tech familiar with “heat recovery” systems). When found, that tech will want to work hourly and they likely will need to speak with FPH experts about check valve dependencies and such, depending on your hvac design. Back when I did it, I learned enough to be the go-between interface between FPH techs and local HVAC tech – and I had a very good hvac tech. Somewhere in all those posts I included what it cost me for all that, including tech labor.
I think most of us got all that worked out before buying the FPH, but I applaud your gumption if you just dove in!
Fort Lauderdale Cocktail Pool Build
- By rookie177
- Under Construction
- 3 Replies
Had to follow-up with part 2:
January, February, March 2025 - Finish and Equipment:
January, February, March 2025 - Finish and Equipment:
Fort Lauderdale Cocktail Pool Build
- By rookie177
- Under Construction
- 3 Replies
Jumping in to introduce myself and share a few thoughts about our current pool build. My wife and I are working through a pool build with a PB here in Fort Lauderdale! We're about 90% of the way done and just started filling the pool a few days ago. We are about 8 months into the build and almost ready for summer!
Pool specs:
18' x 9' rectangle
3'6" to 5'6" depth
~4,000 gallons
Full width stairs on shallow end, full width bench on deep end
Plaster: Diamondbrite "Classic"
Deck: Natural Limestone from Sinai Marble and Stone
Waterline Tile: MODA Magnolia Blue Porcelain Tile
Pump: Hayward MaxFlo XE 1.65
SWG: Jandy TruClear 11k
Filter: Hayward SwimClear C150S
Unfortunately, this is the best 'before' photo that I have. The backyard was mainly grass with 6 invasive ornamental trees:
We signed the agreement with the PB on May 6, 2024 and "broke ground" in late may:
May 2024 - Tree removal
June 2024 - Excavation and Initial Forms
July and August 2024 - Finalizing Forms
October, November, December 2024 - Gunite, Plumbing, and Backfill
Pool specs:
18' x 9' rectangle
3'6" to 5'6" depth
~4,000 gallons
Full width stairs on shallow end, full width bench on deep end
Plaster: Diamondbrite "Classic"
Deck: Natural Limestone from Sinai Marble and Stone
Waterline Tile: MODA Magnolia Blue Porcelain Tile
Pump: Hayward MaxFlo XE 1.65
SWG: Jandy TruClear 11k
Filter: Hayward SwimClear C150S
Unfortunately, this is the best 'before' photo that I have. The backyard was mainly grass with 6 invasive ornamental trees:
We signed the agreement with the PB on May 6, 2024 and "broke ground" in late may:
May 2024 - Tree removal
June 2024 - Excavation and Initial FormsJuly and August 2024 - Finalizing Forms
October, November, December 2024 - Gunite, Plumbing, and Backfill
