PoolStored said:

How high?

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My Guess :

pablocruz23 said:

CYA levels are very high.

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How high? If over 90, do this test starting at #8

That is it. It will not change color.

Have you discussed this with your builder or the plaster installer to confirm they installed the correct color? We have seen where the wrong color was put on pools.

Sand a small area with 80/100 grit wet/dry sandpaper and see if it uncovers a different color. Maybe the plaster was stained due to metals in the water.

Would you take a moment and fill out your signature? Would really help us...help you.

pablocruz23 said:

my CYA levels are very high.

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We need a # to know how much to drain.

pablocruz23 said:

Can I do it in phases?

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Multiple drains lose efficiency removing good water with the bad. For example, two 50 % drains only remove 75% of the water. The third 50% drain removes half of the remaining 25% of old water. So you'd drain 30,000 gallons and still have 12.5% of the original water.

See both draining and no drain exchange in the link below.

Might be potassium chloride. You are likely fine...I wouldn't use more.

JoyfulNoise said:

Someday I hope to have enough F-U money to burn so that I can pay a pool boy to show up once a week just to yell at him and tell him how to do his job ...

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When that day comes you can fly me out to AZ weekly and tell me how to do the job we both know I know how to do…..because TFP baby……but I’ll take your FU money and advice anyway……

dielseman said:

So two

so take readings first with Taylor kit then add slightly less salt than in recommend on pool math?

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Add 2/3 of what you calculate you need, let it dissolve for 24-48 hours, test the salt level, then sneak up on your desired level.

Pro,

Just want to make sure we are all on the same page...

The % of output is just how long the cell will be on in each cycle.. So, at 50%, the cell will be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes.. The cell is just an on and off device.. it is either on or off... The cell is dumb as a rock.. It has no clue how much chlorine is in the water. It has no brain. You have to be the brain on how it works.. You have to measure the FC in the water, then decide if you need more or less.. If you need the SWCG to generate more chlorine, you will have to increase the output or run the pump longer.. If you need the SWCG to generate less chlorine, you will have to lower the SWCG's output.. or reduce your run time.

I can't see where running your pump for 5 hours, even if the cell is set to 100% is going to be long enough to generate the amount of chlorine your pool will need..

The amount of FC (Chlorine) you need in your pool has a direct relationship with the amount of CYA in the water..

See the saltwater section of this chart.. FC/CYA Levels

Please tell me the size of your pool in gallons.

When you put a lot of salt in your pool you should not even test it, for 24 hours...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Follow-up: I bought the Taylor test kit recommended above and have discovered that yes, my CYA levels are very high.

Is the recommendation to drain the pool part way and fill it with fresh water? How much of the pool needs to be drained? Can I do it in phases?

Don’t worry about the softener guard.

Don’t add more. Return the other bags to Costco.

While unfortunate, one bag of anything will likely not be an issue.

Brush it around well.

Newdude said:

I generously undershot with a fresh fill (0 - 200 tested salt) and still missed the mark.

Exactly. No harm in waiting but also no harm in using the cool weather to make it less of a rush. Because rushing is bad. Lol.

Plus, like I said, when the water is cool your daily loss is very little so if the cell kicks on at all here and there (once you're at salt target) you might not need to supplement with LC.

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so take readings first with Taylor kit then add slightly less salt than in recommend on pool math?

Was the pool filled after it was plastered?
Do you know which startup guide was used?

Normally, if it changes, it changes in the first few weeks.

This one also had a bit more brown...but never came back with an update.

This may help too:

Newdude said:

Sounds like the deck size is substantial if it costs that much to remove and compensate with fill. My patio guy quoted me $1000 to remove a 20x30 paver patio. It's volume was only a couple yards of dirt, less than $100 worth (plus $50 delivery)

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I think the extra $3000-$4000 has more to do with the cost of extra dirt than with the cost of disposing of the concrete. Dirt is expensive because you have to pay someone to go get it and they may have to make several trips to get enough of it. I'm getting a good price on the pool removal because I'm getting a bunch of free dirt from my neighbor. I think they are building a smaller pool than ours so we would have to pay for more dirt if none of the concrete is going into the hole. I'm getting another estimate later this week from a fiberglass pool contractor so I'm going to see what he says about the impact of leaving some concrete in the hole.

proluxline said:

I also ordered a digital salt tester and should be able to check it tomorrow since my test strips are all gone.

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I would get a test kit and make sure that it includes a salt test. If we are going to work on chemistry next, you need a proper kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
I'd get the TF-100 SALT or the TFPro SALT. The drop kits are much more accurate and less fussy than the digital testers. I have two of them sitting unused for a couple years. I'd return the digital.

proluxline said:

I wanted to ask, what level should I set the sanitizer output to—4% or 6%?

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Get pool math. Link-->PoolMath
Log in with the same TFP UN/Password.
Configure your pool, including the salt cell...it will know how much your cell makes.
You can then play with runtime and % output to see how much it produces in your pool. My guess right now in GA, you are using 2FC per day.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Newdude said:

Sounds like the deck size is substantial if it costs that much to remove and compensate with fill. My patio guy quoted me $1000 to remove a 20x30 paver patio. It's volume was only a couple yards of dirt, less than $100 worth (plus $50 delivery)

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I removed about 3 tons of concrete/plaster and it was only $300. But I loaded the dumpster myself. I’d tack on an extra $1000 for that labor pretty easily.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Jimrahbe said:

Pro,

If the original salt system was installed by a pool builder, or pro, you can DIY replace the cell itself and it will be under warranty.

Turn off the power to the cell, and then turn the power back on..

Does the Red and Green salt lights flash back and forth like a railroad crossing? This usually take a couple of minutes to complete.. (It is testing the salt level)
Does the cell have green flow light??
What other lights are on. If any..?

Thanks,

Jim R.

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You won’t believe this, but I just turned the system on, and after a minute of the red/green light dance, it finally turned solid green. It looks like I was rushing and should have given the salt more time to dissolve in the pool. Although today was very hot here in California, so that might have helped.

I also ordered a digital salt tester and should be able to check it tomorrow since my test strips are all gone.

I wanted to ask, what level should I set the sanitizer output to—4% or 6%? And one more thing: is 5 hours of pump and cell generator runtime enough, or should I be running it for more time, especially since the high season is coming?


Thanks for all your help, Jim! You’re my best pool friend!