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Main drain line corrosion signs

P
Jimrahbe said:
Pro,

An IC40 will make 1.4 lbs. of chlorine gas when run 24 hours at 100%.. This will increase your FC by 8.4 ppm. or .35 ppm per hour (Kind of why you need a 40K cell on a 20K pool..)

Most pools use 2 to 4 ppm per day in the summer. So, let's use 3 ppm per day.. We will need to add about 3 ppm of FC per day.. That means at 100% output you will need to run your pump about 8.5 hours.. And.. since no one wants to run at 100%, as you would have no room to adjust, let's run at 50%.. That means you would need to run about 17 hours a day.

If you are going to have to run 17 hours a day, why not run 24/7??? (Kind of why a VS pump is the only kind of pump to have with a SWCG..)

Pool math can help you figure all that out.

To start off with, set your SWCG output to 50% and then routinely test and determine if you need to go up or down..

It is best to not try to micromanage the cell.. It never hurts to have too much FC and it is a disaster to have too little FC.. So, you try to keep your FC at or above the recommend FC for your CYA level.

I am sure all this is kind of overwhelming.. But trust me.. After a week or so, it will all make sense. And, once you learn how it all works, you can cut back testing to once a week or less once you learn how your pool works.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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I appreciate your help, and others' too! But I’m a bit shocked to hear that I need to run the pump for 17 hours a day. I’ve always heard that 5-7 hours is enough—maybe that was for fresh water pools? I recently converted to a saltwater pool, so I’m not sure if that changes things.

The issue is also that the equipment is installed next to my dad's bedroom. He’ll kill me if I run the pump in the morning or evening! 😅 So, how can I compromise on this?

Also, for testing free chlorine, I currently use the simple dye method with a red and yellow plastic tube with numbers. Is there another alternative, or is that method good enough?
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Main drain line corrosion signs

Jimrahbe
Pro,

An IC40 will make 1.4 lbs. of chlorine gas when run 24 hours at 100%.. This will increase your FC by 8.4 ppm. or .35 ppm per hour (Kind of why you need a 40K cell on a 20K pool..)

Most pools use 2 to 4 ppm per day in the summer. So, let's use 3 ppm per day.. We will need to add about 3 ppm of FC per day.. That means at 100% output you will need to run your pump about 8.5 hours.. And.. since no one wants to run at 100%, as you would have no room to adjust, let's run at 50%.. That means you would need to run about 17 hours a day.

If you are going to have to run 17 hours a day, why not run 24/7??? (Kind of why a VS pump is the only kind of pump to have with a SWCG..)

Pool math can help you figure all that out.

To start off with, set your SWCG output to 50% and then routinely test and determine if you need to go up or down..

It is best to not try to micromanage the cell.. It never hurts to have too much FC and it is a disaster to have too little FC.. So, you try to keep your FC at or above the recommend FC for your CYA level.

I am sure all this is kind of overwhelming.. But trust me.. After a week or so, it will all make sense. And, once you learn how it all works, you can cut back testing to once a week or less once you learn how your pool works.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
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Main drain line corrosion signs

PoolStored
Did you get pool math? Effects of adding function can help you.

This time of the year with full sun in GA, you might be using 1-2 FC per day.

Your cell, set to 50% and 12 hours of runtime will make 2.1 FC. I'd probably start about there or maybe a bit higher (you can always lower it...saves you from FC getting low.

You can then play with output and runtime from there.

We don't recommend running a cell at 100% for long periods.
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Pool opening Slam, going well...ish

S
Hello everyone,

I started opening the pool a little early this year, to try and get a head start on things.

it's going well outside of water clarification feeling like its not happening. or is at least slower than i would expect going on 2 weeks now. I would expect to at least be able to see the shadow of any lingering debris on the bottom so that i can more properly target said debris instead of (mostly)randomly vacuuming and hoping i catch anything I have missed previously.

before adding any chems i checked and adjusted PH added CYA to appropriate levels and initiated slamming, water is now cloudy blue and just not clearing.

I decided to try adding a little clarifier(with the expectation of it being largely degraded by the FC) to just kickstart the clarification so that i can better vacuum and brush. I dont think this should be any issue, mainly just posting in verification that this is a valid though generally not needed way to get things going.

thought/opinions are welcome. we had a great tfp season last year, just surprised at how stubborn the water is being to clear enough to see the bottom this year.
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pH & TA

Tattooed Nurse
PoolStored said:
TA does not rise unless you add something to raise TA. Like baking soda or water that has high TA.
Do you have an autofill?
Test your input water for TA.

On the test, are you adding drops until the sample doesn't change color, and subtract the last drop?
Are you wiping the tip of the R-009 with a wet paper towel?

It may just come down to testing error...have a read:

Water Testing Errors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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I do have an ATO. The fill water is a pH of 7.4 & TA of 210😳😳. I am adding drops until the sample color does not change but I do not subtract the last drop after the color does not change. Not wiping the tips of the reagents either. Should I do that on all of them or just the R-009? Would my fill water with such a high TA be causing it and if so will this be a forever fight?
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Main drain line corrosion signs

P
Jimrahbe said:
Pro,

Just want to make sure we are all on the same page...

The % of output is just how long the cell will be on in each cycle.. So, at 50%, the cell will be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes.. The cell is just an on and off device.. it is either on or off... The cell is dumb as a rock.. It has no clue how much chlorine is in the water. It has no brain. You have to be the brain on how it works.. You have to measure the FC in the water, then decide if you need more or less.. If you need the SWCG to generate more chlorine, you will have to increase the output or run the pump longer.. If you need the SWCG to generate less chlorine, you will have to lower the SWCG's output.. or reduce your run time.

I can't see where running your pump for 5 hours, even if the cell is set to 100% is going to be long enough to generate the amount of chlorine your pool will need..

The amount of FC (Chlorine) you need in your pool has a direct relationship with the amount of CYA in the water..

See the saltwater section of this chart.. FC/CYA Levels

Please tell me the size of your pool in gallons.

When you put a lot of salt in your pool you should not even test it, for 24 hours...

Thanks,

Jim R.
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hi Jim, lots of stuff to learn from you guys. So my pool size is 15x30 ft, about 20k gallon. I just want to ask, let's say my actual salt level I measured is normal, what percentage should I setup for sanitizer output? Here is a picture of my pool and IC40.
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Main drain line corrosion signs

P
PoolStored said:
I would get a test kit and make sure that it includes a salt test. If we are going to work on chemistry next, you need a proper kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
I'd get the TF-100 SALT or the TFPro SALT. The drop kits are much more accurate and less fussy than the digital testers. I have two of them sitting unused for a couple years. I'd return the digital.

Get pool math. Link-->PoolMath
Log in with the same TFP UN/Password.
Configure your pool, including the salt cell...it will know how much your cell makes.
You can then play with runtime and % output to see how much it produces in your pool. My guess right now in GA, you are using 2FC per day.
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thank you so much I downloaded and installed the app. will start logging the numbers.
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Is this a good price ..

Newdude
Mstrlucky74 said:
I believe is way too thin.
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Some like them, I am on team thicc.


Mstrlucky74 said:
They said it would be an upcharge for thicker liner.
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Mine was nominal, $350 maybe ? Peanuts for a more durable liner holding all the water, IMO.
Mstrlucky74 said:
Is there a middle ground of thickness I can go without going 28 that would make sense?
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Looploc traditionally has 20 and 28. Certain patterns are only available in one or the other.
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pH & TA

PoolStored
TA does not rise unless you add something to raise TA. Like baking soda or water that has high TA.
Do you have an autofill?
Test your input water for TA.

On the test, are you adding drops until the sample doesn't change color, and subtract the last drop?
Are you wiping the tip of the R-009 with a wet paper towel?

It may just come down to testing error...have a read:

Water Testing Errors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...

Infinity Edge Pool & Spa Renovation

B
The professionals arrived this morning and made significant progress with the demo. All the coping, tile, and weir wall stone was removed. Damaged portions of pebble were removed. A few interesting findings… 1) Professionals are so quick, such incredible progress in just one day, my back hurts just thinking about lugging all that material out in 5 gallon buckets

2) There is a random piece of wood behind the tile line at the step, probably why those tiles kept falling off, seriously???

3) Only moderate damage to the weir wall where it appears the rebar was too close to the surface of the gunnite

4) There are ~3” diameter holes in the gunnite around the anchors for the loop loc cover, those should have been sealed with waterproofing

5) Should I be concerned the pool is only 1/3 filled? I’m in Maryland so the water table is generally pretty far down, but horror stories of pools popping stress me out. There is enough water so the plugs have not been pulled yet.
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