So got everything in yesterday, got all the plumbing done and no leaks! That was way beyond my skill set but am happy so far its all good. Added all the salt in batches late yesterday so, getting close. In trying to connect the communications between the SWG power supply and my Easy Touch panel, I’m assuming it just connects to the same terminals as the wired remote? Or do I need to invest in the Comm Ports adaptor to have more ports? So what I’m asking is can the COMM port handle 2 different types of data, one from the remote, and one from the SWG, simultaneously?

MidWestIsBest said:

I'm just hoping that his reputation is important enough to do the right thing here and fix it properly

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Pictures on every review site there is will tell your story very well, free of emotion. 'If you'd like your $100k pool to look like this, XYZ Builder is your guy'.

Hold off on any emotion or threats while it plays out, just keep this knowledge in your back pocket.

Bperry said:

Often the motor jets get a piece of grit in them and it reduces the pressure to the motor. Take all the jets hoses off and blow them clean. Also check the screen filter on the hose connection at the pool wall.

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Yes I have removed the jets and cleared them out, and the little inline filter.

HermanTX said:

I have rebuilt mine at least twice. That turbine needs to replace every so often as that drives the wheels. Ensure that tube that leads to it is clean, not cracked or leaking.
Changing the gear wheels is important.

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I’ll have to dive deeper in and inspect the turbine then.

The dimensions for 1.5hp and 3hp are different. The 1.5hp has port sizes of 1.5” and 3hp has port size of 2.5”

Welcome to TFP.

Yes, you can run your spa bubblers and spillway for aeration with new plaster.

I would not get overly aggressive with trying to lower your TA. The start-up guides give you pH and TA targets that a e often impossible to maintain.

With a TA of 200 your pH will rise naturally pretty quickly. Just knock your pH down to around 7.6 whenever it gets to 8. Your TA will drop over time.

TA is the least important value as long as you keep your pH in the 7's.

You will always be fighting high TA and pH with lots of evaporation and high TA fill water in Houston.

What start-up guide are you using?

What test kit are you using?

What is your CSI?


The normal CSI guidelines do not apply to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary to achieve a smooth and dense surface to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface must be "carbonated" before lowering the CSI to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water.

mknauss said:

Be sure that the power is completely removed from the SWCG when the pump is not running.

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Currently the pump is running 24 hrs/day. When the pool is cleared up after opening and in regular operation, I use a timer. Is there something else I need to be doing to ensure the power is removed from the SWG? Thanks for your feedback.

You can very much see the hump in the fiberglass too. It just looks shoddy.

The more I think of it, I am probably going to shell out for a new 3hp intelliflo3. This way I can use the app and cut the SWG on whenever I want.

How are you measuring pH and TA? If those are pool-store numbers I wouldn't trust them too much. If the TA is really over 200 the pH will not stay at 7.2 very long in any case. And a TA of 200 won't do any harm in the short run.

But yes running the system in SPA overflow mode works well for aeration. I've used it on my own pool when I've wanted to

It's right at about 3" buldge to the middle when measuring from corner to corner. At this point I'm mad that the pool wall itself is that deformed. Considering the PVC is "locked in" with the gravel halfway down, and the top fill and concrete is what seems to have pushed it in, how is that not creating enormous strain on the pipes?!?. What a cluster this is turning into. It was so close to being done well, I don't know how they didn't see this or thought it was acceptable workmanship. This builder has great reviews and I'm just hoping that his reputation is important enough to do the right thing here and fix it properly which unfortunately means a whole tear-out of the coping and digging out a good amount of the backfill.

I do not have unions, but I see Pentair sells a riser stand to convert from the whisperflo. This made me think it was drop in replacement, save for a height adjustment on the pump. I thought I would be cutting threaded adapters off and gluing pipe/unions only, but I guess not.

The Pentair 011075 is the basic 3hp model. I bought one last week, and will install it in a week or two. You can control it via wifi / home app. I guess by a video or two, you can also do some very basic controls on the unit itself.

The Pentair 011076 is exactly the same, but it includes the relay board. The relay board allows for two items to be attached (and controlled) by wifi. As previously mentioned, the controlled is just power. So, lights on one, and a booster pump on the other, maybe.

Youtube search for pentair intelliflo relay board programming and you'll see a few good videos.

For me, since I bought the pump already, and am also buying an SWCG, I'm going to buy the relay board separately. It'll be worth it.

You need to check if the contractors who did the work - gunite, plumbing, etc. - have been paid or if they will come to you for payments or put a lien on your house.

ajw22 said:

I don't know what you want to do with your skimmer/MD actuator or why you need it.

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Moe,

I 'assume' that you need to be sucking from the main drain when your In-Floor-Cleaning-System is running...

Is that true or is it something else???

Thanks,

Jim R.

Other things you want to ask about:

Specific equipment list (name/model #)
Heater?
# of skimmers
Main drain?
# of returns
Vacuum port or will you use a robot?
Do you require a perimeter safety fence (code)?
try to get a fixed price for extra decking

Deleted

The relay opens or closes one leg of 220v not the most ideal, but allowable(one leg will remain hot at the load). As long as it’s square flange it will fit whisperflo. There is input switches that override the control panel and can be controlled by a series of relays. There is also a rs485 connector but I couldn’t find any documentation on the modbus.

H,

My pull it out of my rear guess it that it will cost you another $65K to complete the job.. so $85 + $65 = $150K

Let's see what some of our members, who do this stuff for a living, have to say...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Only way you will know is by getting some quotes from other builders to complete the work.

Consider being your GC from here and hiring the sub-contractors directly. It will save you money and give you more control over the outcome.

Drive around your area, find pool builds, and talk to the contractors on site about what you need done.

djdonte said:

Will running extended hours at a lower speed cause more wear and tear on my salt cell?

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dj,

It will have no effect on your salt cell...

Without any 'proof' I personally believe that running the pump 24/7 is much better for the pump than turning it on and off each day.. Until this year, I had three pools that all have 3 HP IntelliFlo pumps.. all three have been running 24/7 for at least 12 years. All three pumps run today, just like they did when installed. I like making a little chlorine all the time, and I like skimming all the time.. I also like the look if my pool when there is a little action to the water... I never have to worry about freeze control as the pump is already running..

I run 24/7 because that works best for me.. You should run whatever works best for you.

As a side note... When running at a low rpm, you will initially swear that your skimmers are not working... They just 'look' different, but they are working just fine.. It is the weir door that makes your skimmers work, not the speed of the pump.

Thanks,

Jim R.

All done. Started the fill at dusk last night. Shut it off to not overflow while sleeping. We'll be ready for swimming in a week assuming it warms up again soon.

djdonte said:

Will running extended hours at a lower speed cause more wear and tear on my salt cell?

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No.

A drop in replacement would be another FNS 60.

Replaced the PID board, no change in values on any test points. Submitted warranty claim for SWG, which is only 2 years old.

Question - if the SWG is bad, will the voltage at the cable feeding the unit be zero or near zero, which is what I am seeing? Assuming the resistance is zero or near zero, the Voltage in the circuit would be zero or near zero. Is this what occurs when an SWG is bad - resistance goes to zero?