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Pump, Filter, and Circulation Question

M
ajw22 said:
Superflow is a medium head pump. You have a high head setup.

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

A 3HP Intelliflo pump would have been best.

full



Yes.
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I have basic on/off system using dial timers. I don't have automation. Will I still be able to use the INTELIFLOW3 or would the WhisperFlo be a better route?
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Circupool RJ+ 30 issues..

Divin Dave
Well Im glad someone is happy with their support.

I bought the CP system directly from the CP based in Houston on the CP Website. Took them 10 days to ship it. Probably would have taken longer if I hadn't called them on the phone. The guy I spoke to was nice, but he didn't have an answer as to why the service was so slow.

So far, Im good with Discount Salt Pool. So I'll stick with that.

Hopefully the new cell will sort my problem out.
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Pool Math LC Addition Calculation Incorrect

T
Donldson said:
The calculation is correct for 12.5% liquid chlorine to add 3.4 ppm FC to a 17,000 gallon pool.

If you are adding 62 ounces and only seeing a 1.8 ppm rise then one of a few things is amiss: 1, your chlorine is only 6%. 2, Your pool is actually 34,000 gallons. Or 3, there's something else going on with your water.

Of the options I'm heavily leaning towards the first one. It would be unlikely to be off by double on pool size, and for something to eat through several ppm of chlorine in an hour but then leave it alone for the rest of the day would be a new one even for us.
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Thank you! Yes this is what I suspect...is it possible that the chlorine manufactured just a month ago is 6% rather than the labeled 12.5%? Have you seen that before? It seems the most plausible to me because the chemicals other than liquid chlorine added are resulting in the correct expected ppm, and I don't recall this issue with the pool math suggested amounts last year. But it's wild to me the liquid chlorine could be SO off without being old!
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Welcome back Time to pull the trigger need some help

Divin Dave
Jsf721 said:
how often to you need to add salt or Muriatic acid?
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I live in Texas and start my pool up in Mid March. 13000 Gallons. In mid July or early August, I usually have to add 4 bags of salt. Depending on how much rain and overflow you get is the biggest factor on when and how much salt to add.

My pH is as stable as can be ranging from 7.2 to7.5 and any change in the upward direction is usually due to a hard rain, so I havent added any MA to my in at least 3 years, it might even be 4. If anything, I have to raise the pH every couple of years instead of lowering it.

Vinyl pool with a TA of 60 and my city water that I use to top off is very good quality too.
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Varying Salt Tests + SWG

F
Recently bought a house with a fiberglass pool with an SWG. My previous house had a pool but this is my first time with salt. The previous owners never tested the salt and only relied on the SWG’s salt reading. The SWG is a Hayward TCELL940 (extended life T15) with a 12,000 gal fiberglass pool. There are no errors with the SWG indicating low or high salt levels and seems to be functioning correctly. It is about 4.5 years old and the cell has never been replaced. I dont know about cleanings.

I am finding wildly varying salt levels depending on the testing method. Can anyone explain and tell me what I should be following?

The readings are as follows:
-SWG instant salt ranges from 1900-2300ppm
-Drop test is 5400ppm using Taylor salt test
-Salt test strips is 4400ppm
-Cheap digital tester is 4150ppm

What am I missing?
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PB disappeared ->Half an owner build

H
Thanks for responses so far. I called another builder and it does sound like my PB has left town. Current plan:
1. Check if any money recoverable though I doubt it.
2. Check if subs were paid although I don't think I'd be responsible for paying them if not.
3. Get estimates from other PBs
4. Decide whether to use other PBs or GC myself. I was considering this anyways for the whole build so we'll see.
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AquaRite / Blue Essence SWG

A
My Blue Essence salt system is not working correctly. When I power on the system,

Here are the readings:

0 Average Salt Level (Default LCD reading)
78 temp
15.2 cell voltage
0 cell amperage
53 P output %
-0 instant salt
AL-0 program code
1.55 circuit board revision
t-15 cell size

Actual salt is ~2800 (measured using test strips).

I have checked the 20amp fuse and it is good.
The flow sensor appears to be working properly.
The thermistor is visually OK and measures 15v on the near side and 22v on the far side
I am using a brand new T-CELL-15 from Hayward that I just installed.

I do not hear a relay "click" during startup.
On startup the No Flow light flashes red for 60 seconds.
Then the Generating light turns green for 10 seconds.
Then the Generating light turns off and all LEDs remain off, even if I switch between Off/Auto/Super Chlorinate.
The diagnostic button allows me to switch between the LCD readings and make adjustments.
The readings above are the same during 60 second startup and during the 10 second Generating (no differences)

Main Board is Goldline Controls (C) 2009 G1-066012E-1
Display board is Goldline Controls (C) 2008 G1-066604G-1

Thanks!
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Adding Salt

J
Newdude said:
We round up. And hold off on adding more in case you need to SLAM Process


Most bags of salt are filthy. And mother nature is probably dusting you also. But OCLT so you know.
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Newdude said:
We round up. And hold off on adding more in case you need to SLAM Process


Most bags of salt are filthy. And mother nature is probably dusting you also. But OCLT so you know.
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Gotcha! Yes, I had wondered about all the dirt and pollen, but I hadn’t thought about the salt bags. Thank you!
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Welcome back Time to pull the trigger need some help

J
SJPoe said:
We're just starting our 3rd season. I wouldn't go back to jugs of chlorine for any price.

I was away for 2 weeks last year, never had to touch the pool...FC was a little on the high side when we got back basically because no one had been using the pool and the cover was on all the time. Another trip for a week where the wife stayed at home using the pool, came back to FC being exactly where it was supposed to be - no interaction required.

Its not 100% hands-off, you still need to test and tweak if needed, but once you understand YOUR pool's demands, it's about as close to hands-off as you can get.

I also have some ad-hoc monitoring setup to ensure that power is getting to the pump/SWG etc, and some extra failsafe's beyond the flow-switch (if the pump stops, power is turned off to the SWG/Heater etc).
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how often to you need to add salt or Muriatic acid?
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Welcome back Time to pull the trigger need some help

J
Divin Dave said:
My original SWG was pentair. The cell lasted 8 years. Replaced the cell in 2019 for 800$. That one lasted 3 years and failed in 2022 A new IC 60 cell by then was 1300. Yikes! For 1300 I could replace the entire system with a CircuPool RJ+ 30, so thats what I did. Replacement cell today for the RJ 30 is 614.00

So future cell replacement costs is definitely something to think about.

As for remote access, Pentair does offer that, but I think you also need a control enter to make it work. Others know way more about that than I do.

For the most part, both systems are almost set it and forget it. You will likely need to adjust the output % on each
system according to chlorine demand. In my experience, demand is predominately a weather related factor. During the heat of summer I need to boost the output, due to UV conditions.

The Pentair does not have a numerical readout unless you are automated. Faults, functions, etc are a series of blinking lights so you'll be referring to the Om to figure them out.

The circupool has a very nice user interface with display. I like it and like it a lot. It does have it quirks, but the plus outweigh the minus IMO. Later today, Im going to make a post about an issue Im having with the circupool, so check in on that for more info.
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how often to you need to add salt or Muriatic acid?
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Welcome back Time to pull the trigger need some help

J
Newdude said:
Yes. It performs a self check for flow, then salt, then goes right back to where it was set before.

The only benefit for you for remote access would be just to see it was still running @ X% from wherever you were. Without testing you wouldn't know if it needed more/less production. If you had a friend go test, you could just as easily tell them to click the +/- button accordingly.
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what's needed to remotely make changes?
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Circupool RJ+ 30 issues..

Divin Dave
I have no problem letting you know why Im not claiming warranty.

On Saturday, I went to circu pool website, I ordered a new cell and sent them a message to their customer support.
As of yet, Ive no confirmation on my order or reply to the message. So you might imagine what my opinion of them might be and how a warranty conversation might go? Let me tell ya that I have a big problem with poor or no customer service. It's best for me to just let this go.

An hour ago, I put in my other order for a new cell to Discount Salt Pools. They had the keypad in stock too so I ordered that as well. I got confirmation that it's already shipped.
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Is this a good price ..

Newdude
Jimrahbe said:
We used it a few times, until the newness wore off..

It has been shut off for at least 10 years now..
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Things get murky here. The Mrs got to experience it and made up her mind it wasn't for her. Had she not known because you said she couldn't have one......... she'd forever assume she was shortchanged. :ROFLMAO:

Sometimes a mistake is less headache.
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