haroldo said:

Our pool builder is asking for 70A 240V for the equipment pad. Does this sound right,

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Yes.

haroldo said:

mainly the 240 part (vs 110)? Are most pads powered with 240A in US?

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You want to run your pumps on 240V. The pump power is throttled at max speed when run as 120V.

Mine did the same thing for awhile. After about a week of messing with it trying to figure out the problem it totally died! Will not move at all! I tried a different cord and a different power supply but neither helped. In the end I deducted that the motor had died. Not sure how old it is since I bought it new in June 2021 but had to send it in in July 2023 for a warranty repair. I received back a refurbished unit that looked like it had been through heck and back! That unit died in July of 2024. I am currently looking for a new unit and am ready to pull the trigger on the EVO614IQ

I was hoping to see you getting back to this huge endeavor! Good luck and make sure there are some adults drinks in the fridge for when you get done each day!

Waited 20 minutes and started it back up. Caught a prime immediately but with air bubbles in returns. Shut off after 4-5 mins.

So I ended up going to the pool store to have my water tested. For the total hardness, tc,fc,ph,ta, and the cya it was just a test strip so I’m not sure how much I trust that. But for the metals it went inside some machine and she told me I have .5 ppm of copper and .1 iron. The pool looks better today so I’m wondering if I should add the sequestering agent or just let the copper ride and make sure I don’t add anything else the contains copper.

Or get a VSP and run 24/7. If my pump loses power so does the SWG. On the off chance the pump blows up and the SWG retains power with no flow, then that one time the flow switch can take over.

24/7 VSP with a SWG is the only way to fly IMO. Then it just so happens you don't need a timer.

TinFoilHat said:

Sounds like you need to go heat pump instead. But it won't be free.

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Yeah but that's relatively loud

TinFoilHat said:

Sounds like you need to go heat pump instead. But it won't be free.

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Just came up with a solution. Bury the tank in my front yard. One large diameter pipe to side of house, then branch off of that to the heater and other potential future items.

look30 said:

How do you get the PPM reading ?

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On the aquarite unit and my OmniLogic app

I would separate the motor from the wet end so you can inspect the impeller and volute to see if there is anything in there causing interference.

HermanTX said:

Have you disassembled the return diverter valve (remove the actuator that sites on top of it) to ensure it is in the open mode (to both spa and pool)? From what you show, the spa should be receiving water and thus fill up and flow over to the pool. That should occur regardless of speed since there is no suction from the spa, only water is flowing to it so it should always be at the spillover level. The speed would affect all much flow is going over the spillover.

Another option is to inspect the suction side diverter valve to ensure it is not partially open to the spa thus it is actually removing water from the spa. So at slow speed, it would appear to lower the spa.

It is something between those 2 diverter valves. So inspect both that they are in proper position and also are sealing. It may be time to install new diverters in them.

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Thanks. I will check these; they shouldn’t have changed since last year but your feedback and logic makes sense.

Jimrahbe said:

Logically, one of two things is happening..

The flow from your pump, through the filter, and back to the pool is less than it used to be.. Maybe a clogged impeller.. or heater core
or..
The Spa is losing water, due to a leaking Intake valve.

What filter do you have and what is the pressure at 1700 and 3200rpm??

Side note... This often happens when the filter is dirty.. But you say the filter is clean.. If the system worked for a day or so after the filter was cleaned, and then quickly went back to low flow, then that points to algae..

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Thank you for the feedback. Will check the impeller.

Here are the pump speeds and corresponding PSI.

Pool Speed (1700 RPM) - 10 psi
Day Speed (2400 RPM) 12.5 psi
High Speed (3200 RPM) - 18 psi

Thanks.

Alexr54 said:

I only need a simple timer for the pool pump. But does need to be able to be controlled through the prologic board.
I have a remote for it and its tied to Alexa to start stop. I get alerted if any issues (HomeAssistant). And it has freeze protection.

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You can directly control speeds with a ProLogic and a Hayward pump combination. Hayward ProLogic only "talks" to a Hayward pump. To use any other brand VSP you need to use relay inputs and won't have direct control.

ColoradoPool2022 said:

should I just assume I have an ammonia issue and attack it as such?

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I would. If 10 FC mostly holds for 30 mins, either the ammonia is killed, or its not ammonia. Either way, its not / no longer ammonia.

If the FC is mostly gone in 30 mins, its ammonia and repeat dosing to 10FC every 30 mins until you have 8+ left.

ColoradoPool2022 said:

can I do this by using 54% granulated cal-hypo?

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Yes if your calcium level can afford the bump.

And large batches usually cause cloudiness so don't be alarmed there.

ColoradoPool2022 said:

have a digital scale so I can get very exact on how much I'm adding

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In the grand scheme of things, its a small dose into large gallons. The calculator has rounding errors on top of that and exact exact isn't a big deal. Close enough is close enough.

browerjs said:

I changed it on the Aquarite and after 30 mins or so the PPM went up another 400.

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How do you get the PPM reading ?

Here is the way I understand your setup...

Water flows through your pump and filter and out to the solar diverter in the blue pipe.

At the solar diverter the water is sent directly to the pool returns through the green pipe. And along the way it gets chlorinated by the cell in the pipe.

Or if the SolarTouch controller determines the solar panels can heat the water it moves the valve to send water down the orange pipe to the solar panels.



If I follow the pipes on the wall in this picture it looks like the return water pipe (green) turne the wall.

While the solar feed pipe (orange) goes into the ground.

Are those yellow pipes coming out of the wall suction pipes into the pump?



Now, we follow the pipes around the corner in this picture...

The green pipe contains the chlorinated return water.

The orange pipe contains water to be heated by the solar panels.

I am lost as to where the blue and brown pipes lead.

Or why there is a T in the green pipe,

Or what that manual diverter is for?

Which pipe leads to the pool returns?



The diagram below is a standard solar panel plumbing setup and I used the same colors to correspond to your lines.

The red circled 3-way valve is your solar diverter valve. That either send water straight through to the pool or to the solar panels to be heated.

The unheated or heated solar water connect in a T that feeds the pool returns. The SWG should be placed after the T so that water is chlorinate whether it runs through the solar heater or not.

In summary, you whole setup is janky and I cannot follow the flow. Please explain.

Looks nice. All the pipes exit out the back away from the pool though? At least you don't have to step over them to get to the equipment.

PoolStored said:

The whole pad so I can see all equipment.

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Sounds like you need to go heat pump instead. But it won't be free.