Gnarbrah said:

Nice!
I checked out Marina and price looks good (comparatively speaking...). Do you still get the manufacturer's warranty when buying online? I read somewhere that you don't which is why the local pool stores cost more?

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Stradt03 said:

Any other cool features I should check out in the intellicenter? Coming from the EasyTouch panel and screenlogic, it feels like a spaceship!

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I do not find much cool in the IntelliCenter other than the touch panel display. It is disappointing the potential versus the implementation. It lacks any sensors for positive feedback loops to tell you when you suggest to it to turn on the pump that the pump actually runs, or to turn on the heater that heat is being generated.

If you implemented spaceship controls that way you would not get far before disappointment or disaster.

To me the IntelliCenter is an appliance, like a toaster. It does the basics well but occasionally burns the toast.

Nice!
I checked out Marina and price looks good (comparatively speaking...). Do you still get the manufacturer's warranty when buying online? I read somewhere that you don't which is why the local pool stores cost more?
One more question - if I'm doing the OCLT tonight do I shut the pump down or leave it run with SWG at 0%?

They sell on Amazon but I buy direct from them for less than $2/lb.

Dry stabilizer lasts forever is stored properly and I but a big bag.

LC and acid I buy from my local family owned pool store. I don’t use enough to go running around to save a few bucks.

ajw22 said:

Each valve actuator has two positions it can move to. It has been that way for a long time.

More positions were promised for the IntelliValve but never implemented.

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Bummer, shame on Pentair for not delivering on that promise. I think it has been a solid 3+ years since they said it would be "coming soon"

Any other cool features I should check out in the intellicenter? Coming from the EasyTouch panel and screenlogic, it feels like a spaceship!

NT,

You should NEVER need to 'shock" a saltwater pool!!!!

If you always keep your FC and CYA at the proper levels.. Shock is never required.

You have been a member since 2015, and still think that pool store advice is worth even listening to?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Gnarbrah said:

With my water already being clear do I do the OCLT tonight

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Yup. You're already fast forwarded to the end stages. Good times.

Gnarbrah said:

Not sure if this is taboo on TFP but any recommendations on where to pick up a new IC-40?

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Marina pools and spa in Denver is competitive and sometimes fantastic. But either way they are always super helpful. (You have to call for the best deals)

I think what you want is for the water out of the spa to create a spillway effect (i.e. the water shoots over the coping, to create a spill over the coping effect).
If so, then the degree of the edge will have an impact and the pressure going to the spa.

In my previous pool we had this, when the main pump was running it created a water effect of the water calmly falling down the stone.
When the water feature pump was on, the water would then shoot over and create that curved water effect. It would shoot outwards about 3-4 inches.

For the filter - your main pain point will be all the bolts and nuts holding the lid on. Obviously, have everything off before you start the deep clean. Open the air valve, with all the skimmer/jet valves in normal operating condition, and let the filter self drain back to the pool. Then work on the lid. Take care on opening - it may be gummed in place and take some convincing - no tools that could damage the seal (likely a giant o-ring). Get out the hose, and work it up and down in the entire sand bed. You will be flabbergasted at the amount of dirty water that comes out. If the sand level is low, add it before starting the clean - new sand has a lot of dust, but the deep clean will rinse that out too. If there are very hard chunks or matted together things, I have been know to just get them out and say good bye. Keep working it until you are convinced you're good and the water overflows clear. Make sure there is no dirt/sand in the seat for the seal, and the seal is in good condition. Pool lube on the seal, if rubber, is a good idea (another messy job). When putting the bolts back in, do it like a tire, with one on one side, then on the opposite side, working your way around.

Afterwards, test your setup for the pump speed issue. It may have been caked together sand causing the problem.

IF pool clearing still seems slower, you can add DE to help it along. Add DE to a Sand Filter
Sounds counter intuitive - but a slightly dirty sand filter filters better. The difference is that the DE (or new accumulated dirt) will backwash out pretty easily, and not plug things up. The only downside to DE is that sometimes you have to purchase what for you would be a multi lifetime supply.

And pour yourself that glass of patience after. Run your pump at a little lower speed, rather than full bore, so that it doesn't just blow the dirt right through the sand and back into the pool. That was my issue in my sand days - too much pump on a too small sand filter.

StLDave said:

is it possible the link quit working?

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It is possible.

How far apart are the two boxes in the wireless link? It looks like they are not seeing each others signals.

Can you run a 300 foot or less Ethernet wire from a router or switch port and plug directly into the IntelliCenter PCB to confirm it is a link problem?

Ugh. Alright - SLAM it is. Watched the video and re-read the process. Just put another 32oz of acid to get PH down to 7.2 (it was 7.8) and dumped 256oz of LC in (per pool math to get me to FC of 20. CYA is at 50. I also turned SWG to 0% - it stays that way correct?
With my water already being clear do I do the OCLT tonight or go at least until tomorrow night?
Not sure if this is taboo on TFP but any recommendations on where to pick up a new IC-40? With my luck mine is toast.

I just got my $30 rebate this morning. It seems that my rebate was delayed because of the many "fake" reviews they received.

Thanks for taking the survey and apologies for the delay, got hit by 700 people putting in fake submissions!

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Chazas,

I'd buy the EVO before I'd spend $200 bucks on a cable...

I assume you have seen this review...


Thanks,

Jim R.

Yorker said:

Sorry for this delayed reply.

Allen, you were right, there is was just staring at me.

I reset the breaker and tested it... and no green light. I want to mention that the breaker switch feels different in that it does not click into the on/off position, it feels kind of broken. Anyway I'm assuming that the board and switch will need to be replaced as well as the Cell ...Right?

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If the cell is disconnected and it throws the breaker, then the surge card is bad..

If the cell is connected, then disconnect the cell and run the test again..

If the breaker does not pop with the cell disconnected than the cell is bad..

With the cell disconnected, do you get the green led with J9 connected to the card??

If you get the green led, do you also get about 30 to 40 volts DC between the large Red and Black wires on the plug that goes to the cell from the surge card?

Even if you do not get the green led, test for 30 to 40 volts DC between the large Red and Black wires on the plug that goes to the cell from the surge card.

Basically follow the voltage with your multimeter starting at the beaker and see where it is lost

PoolStored said:

You need to get that FC UP!!! Take it to SLAM level before you leave on your trip...target is 24.

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So I had changed the PCB in my salt generator. First few days all was good - got no fault lights on either polarity. Yesterday it came back so I'm thinking a lot of my issues since I have had this pool is the SWG. Will search the SWG forum and ask there about a replacement.

Using a comma as a decimal point does work in our testing, but we recognize there can be hiccups depending on your specific device setup. Things like your keyboard, language, region, and OS version can all influence how input is handled, and unfortunately that makes it a tough issue to fully standardize across all configurations.

That said, over 90% of our users use device settings and regions where decimal points are the norm — and those consistently work without issue.

If you’re willing to assist, we’d love to help. Please email us at [email protected] with details like:

• Device and model
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Capr said:

just don’t understand how no one’s numbers seem to align and there’s no consistency across the industry.

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The industry once recommended fiberglass to need calcium similar to plaster pools. Whether the manufacturing process changed or most realized it didn't matter, you'll still see both the old and new recommendations out in the wild.

Chances are if one has a 1980s or older fiberglass pool, its been refinished with modern gel coat that definitely doesnt need calcium.

For us specifically the #s range high for the large parts of the county with high CH fill water who struggle to keep it under 500. They'd all need to spend thousands on a water softening system to max at 120 CH.


Also, +1 with Pat above. Yours sounds like chalking, not calcium scale.

Hmm. That's really odd. Well, @Leebo will be along to help you out.

Also there is quite a bit of sand in the pool this morning. I adjusted my Superflo to run at 2500 rpms from 6AM-Noon and 1900 rpms the rest of the day to see if that would help with flow. My skimmers don't appear to be catching many of the pedals that are falling in the pool so it's a manually skimming process daily at the moment. I'm wondering if the pump is just past it and may have some broken laterals. It's a Hayward S200, which is discontinued so it's either leave it be or total replacement. As far as I'm aware the pump and filter were original to the pool and I'm not sure how long ago that was. I can call the pool company and request their records.

Also, side tangent here, but when I asked for a quote on a pump/swg upgrade I was told to get the Superflo VST and IC40 and the SWG would only run when the pump runs. However, now I'm reading (Pentair ic40 intergrating with pentair vs pump) that my pump doesn't have that feature, and the power to the SWG is always on. This confuses me because the IC40 manual and the power center that it came with both say they can be wired up to be on if the pump is on. If I plan on running my pump 24/7 is there a downside to running the SWG 24/7, or should I look into a timer for the SWG or some form of automation? I really wasn't planning on breaking the bank when doing this, but replacing the pump and adding the SWG was a nice chunk and potentially the filter as well. I was hoping to avoid anything else if possible. Also I have literally no more room in my breaker, so whatever I do would have to fit onto the existing circuit or else there will be some serious electrical work to be done.