Thanks for the link to your other post! I'm having a devil of a time finding the Senva CT's and am on the hunt for an alternative. Any suggestions? I see a lot of Current Transformers available but not sure how to convert it to something the Sequent automation HAT can use.

You don't necessarily need a side pump.
Drain the equipment.
Remove rails
Get a deep net and a wide nylon brush
Scoop out all debris.
Brush many times thoroughly.
Do a full set of tests for all chemistry.
Post all readings.
Get the pH to 7.5.
Begin brushing and adding liquid chlorine until all green is gone.
Brush many times thoroughly.
Floc.
Wait for all suspended debris to settle.
Hire someone to vacuum to waste.
When the chlorine is at a safe level begin to filter.

Note that the chemicals will not be safe for the equipment including metal in the pool (Lights, rails, metal light niches) and pool plaster.

Plan to replace the lights.

Metal light niches are the only non-replaceable item and you need to decide if the risk of damage is worth the benefit of getting the pool clear.

It is not definite that the niches will be damaged, but you need to know the risk.

Welcome back.


I got a sign it was time to open weeks ago.

Update on findings and correction for those following.

After in-depth research and consideration of future plans for our pool, we decided to move up our timeline on what I considered a pool overhaul. We discussed with our local pool builder rep (and personal friend) our options and his recommendations. Considering (in my opinion) that the pool was built approx 20 years ago as a basic pool with minimal upgrades for maintainability and efficiency we ultimately decided on focusing on functional aspects rather than cosmetic or flourishing updates. We had concrete deck removed, excavated wall backfill to expose piping and associated interfaces. We found that the walls were backfilled with sand no gravel or ab3. Flex piping was mixed with rigid pvc. Wall structures were in good condition with the exception of the creeping wall in the photos. Aluminum CP-2 coping was removed. The wall in question was manipulated back as close to straight as we dared to force, wall bracing stanchions adjusted to maintain tension and U-channel (Uni-strut) tacked to top of wall to provide a lock for new concrete formed coping in holding in place. All flex tubing was demo'ed out and replaced with rigid 2" pvc. We replaced the skimmer and of course new liner. We also took this opportunity to relocate equipment closer to the pool as we also decided to use the money we budgeted for cosmetic and other features to add a pavilion. A portion of the pavilion provides better cover to minimize sun exposure. I had already made the change to variable speed pump so no change there, but did replace the sand-filter as we were planning to do this in the future anyway.

For a side pump, you can use your existing pump or buy a cheap single speed pump.

Get a 1/2 or 3/4 hp pump and not bigger.

Put a valve on the output to control the flow.

Put a fitting on the suction port to connect a vacuum hose.

Get a pump that is self priming and not made for above ground pools.

Above ground pool pumps do not self prime and will not work well for the purpose.

Lake Placid said:

You will still need to provide adequate air exchanges. UV systems are point of contact only. When the pool is re-chlorinated and bathers re-enter, monochloramines in the pool will have time to be oxidized by the chlorine and convert to dichloramine and trichloramine….the UV system won’t ever see them. The trichloramines will offgas into the air and now you have a ventilation concern.

Click to expand...

Thanks,

Will fit it and see how we get on, simple "opening the doors" a bit seems to allow adequate ventilation, but its a fine balance between that and allowing room temperature to drop so we get excessive humidity inside! - Waiting for a trichloramine air quality monitor to become commercially viable would be my preference. but until then i think we keep the door "cracked"

Looked at a lot of HVAC air to air heat exchangers to keep the heat in the building, but nothing seems to be pool humidity level suitable.

Here is what I would suggest for your unique situation.

Note: This is not for any other pools other than this specific one.

Drain all equipment.

Scoop out as much debris as possible with a deep net.

Begin brushing and circulating with a side pump and get the pH to 7.5.

Add liquid chlorine and brush until all green is gone.

Use floc to drop all solids.

Vacuum to waste using a side pump.

Do not vacuum over the main drain because it probably has a hydrostat that can get popped open by suction.

Once the pool is clear and free of debris, begin filtration.

Can you show your System and Post a full set of chemical readings?

Pros will have vacuums that hold the liner against the pool walls while the water is filling

What's the blue valve on far right in that image? Not used to seeing a ball valve on a drain line.

Two red valves are probably a skimmer and floor drain, and one appears to be mostly closed. Not the cause of your return issue, but you may want to open both, unless there's a reason you have one closed.

Liner can be DIY'd, if you have one or two helpers to help you stretch it in as the pool fills. You generally want to fill the pool up to just below your stairs while walking and stretching the liner into the floor and corners, then cut in stairs, lights, return, and skimmer, and then finish filling. Usually a 2-day process.

But cost is high and probabiliy of a mistake when cutting in stairs and even smaller fixtures is huge, so I'd just hire a local installer to do the job. It'll cost more than DIY, but less than screwing it up.

My concern is also destroying my filter with the amount of algae and organic in the water.