You can do either.

VAwaterboy said:

It sounds like you vote for removing the cover soon; is that right?

Click to expand...

Not really, I start my equipment and leave the mesh on for 1.5 months.
You can drop the sump in a corner and add some chlorine...it will mix, then switch to pipe extension setup.

diat150 said:

So use the type S mortar to repair the bond beam? There isn’t from what I can tell and spot that’s broken off more than .5-1.5 inches.

Then use laticrete 254 to set the coping?

Click to expand...

You can use Laticrete 254 for all of it. It is a mortar.

Steve the screenlogic wireless kit is nice... I finally got one myself a few years ago and I do like it, however I still have an indoor panel (similar to your wireless) because it will back up my configuration and schedules (screenlogic does not - but it does make it easy to reprogram)

Anyway, you can't swap the radio inside the unit - the old one is made by Linx where the new one is a Laird, and the circuit boards are totally different (you can see the internals if you plug the fcc:id into the fcc website). The newer transceiver card with the Laird chipset is part number 520946z

OK CYA wise do I need to raise it to 60 or keep it at 50 for now and just keep the FC at the upper range? Thanks

The cover prevents CO2 outgassing which prevents pH rise.

What Causes Aeration to Raise pH​

Anything that increases the surface area of the air-water interface increases the rate of carbon dioxide leaving the pool water. The outgassing of CO2 causes pH to rise.

Pools are intentionally over-carbonated both to provide a pH buffer and to saturate the water with the carbonate portion of calcium carbonate to protect plaster surfaces from dissolving. In other words, there is a lot more dissolved carbon dioxide in the water than would naturally occur in equilibrium with the air (though not as much as a carbonated beverage!).

As for why the pH rises, the easiest way to explain it is that some of the carbon dioxide in water is carbonic acid -- that is, carbon dioxide plus water makes carbonic acid -- so removing carbon dioxide is like removing carbonic acid. Removing an acid from the water makes the pH rise.[

So use the type S mortar to repair the bond beam? There isn’t from what I can tell and spot that’s broken off more than .5-1.5 inches.

Then use laticrete 254 to set the coping?

Typically, they unscrew using a tool that fits into the holes.

Without knowing the model, that is just an educated guess.

What is wrong with the light?

I call it 7.8

Not purple enough for 8.2.

Maybe 7.8 or 8.0?

@JamesW - thanks for the reply. I'm trying to figure out how to 'pop it out'. Are you saying it should actually pop out or is there a tool needed to unscrew it?

So you are on the track I described in the previous thread.

Use Type S mortar.

I just tested with my Taylor Kit and since yesterday we added 2 jugs liquid chlorine since the chlorine was at 2.8ppm.
After 24 hours of 2 pucks ,2 jugs , the chlorine has raised to 5 ppm . TC is basically nothing. The PH is 7.8 and the TA is still at a 100.
FC-5
TA- .5-1 ppm
PH 7.6-7.8
TA 100

PoolStored said:

Do you have a robot?

What do you mean by pipe extension?

No reason not to put the pump in, if it is pumping water up, you can even add some chlorine and it will dilute it rapidly.

Click to expand...

I have a Polaris, but can't use it until I have the system running normally. What I mean by pipe extension: I can put a sump pump on a step at the shallow end but my pool is 38 feet long, so that by itself would not do much. I can attach a long PVC pipe to the pump so it circulates water more towards the deep end. I did this once before when my pump was out of order for a few days. It sounds like you vote for removing the cover soon; is that right?

Well, the PO came through and delivered my temporary filter plug today. Yay! The OEM part is due May 14-15, but this dubiously-rated third-party plug will work in the meantime. Installation was a breeze, pump fired up and the filter filled right quick. I'm back in business!! I only lost a day of operations, and I used that day to exchange water, so it all worked out. To be honest, had I not been down yesterday I would have found some excuse to do the exchange some other day. Now... it's all done, along with the filter cleaning. Good to have all that behind me.

I tested the water, and my FC, like @Newdude's, was in single digits. But I tested at FC 1 (ONE)! Yikes. No doubt due to recent high temps, low CYA and a missed day of SWG operation. So I've got liquid chlorine going in. And CYA going in, targeting 60 for now, so I don't overshoot. I'll test in a few days and adjust.

I actually did a full suite of tests today. My TA was whacked, at 130, but I think that's to be expected, as I pumped about 2K of high-TA city water into my pool yesterday. The water softener strips the CH, but not the TA. I'll give that a few days, too, before I panic.

But the great news: my CH is now at 440, which is just a tad under my target 450 for the water exchange I did. Success!! I'll record all my new data points for next year.

Now I'm working on my dang auto-fill valve, because it's been flakey lately. I'll report back if my MacGyvering works.

PS. I looked around for a 1.5" M-MIP to 3/4" F-NPT last night, to add a valve to my filter drain. Nada. I wonder if such a thing even exists...

newpoolNJ said:

Here’s a better photo of the gas meter label.

Click to expand...

That label is not what I was looking for.

I think this CL 175-250 says your meter is limited to 250 CFM while the heater alone needs 400.

I have a 900 CFM meter in my house for my 400K heater + 250K furnace + gas stove + gas water heaters.

After the new gas meter is installed the dynamic gas pressure should be checked as described in the Installation Manual. The gas valve may have been adjusted to operate the heater with the low gas pressure and will need to be readjusted once the heater is getting more gas flow.

Pop it out and look for a label.

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Thanks.

Yes it is. I have finished some other projects here and now am ready to tackle this one.

What do you think it is?

Yikes!!!! Slam that pool.
FC 3 means your raised the drop volume by slowing down. GOOD JOB!!!
Get your CYA started soaking in the pool, couple socks full, tie them off and hang in front of returns. Use pool math for amounts. May take a couple refills.
pH is great for SLAM.
Once the sock is in the pool, raise your FC to 12.
After 1/2 hour of sock in pool, start squeezing.
Pump on for 24/7 now.
Follow the SLAM instructions you have!
Great job!!!

Alright, gentlemen, it is fixed. After I posted my pics from testing the diodes, I saw Mas985 post about the spare diode. I moved the orange wire to the spare and no more blown fuse. Salt cell kicked on and stayed on. No to add some more salt! Thanks so much for everyone’s help. Since my rectifiers are not on the board, I could have bought a whole new board and or salt cell and still had the problem. You guys are life savers!