Richie-Czech said:

For the valves, yes, cheapos are no go, been there, done that on the old equipment. The Kaplans were $40/ea, Pentair $50/ea, so I just got a Pentair gate valve.

The amount of 90s was my question. My intake will have just one 90, i.e. from vertical to horizontal. One 90 between pump and filter, as expected. Pump has unions on both ends of it, so that should be good for removing for winter if I do that. My return is where my question was. I would need to go 90 down from filter to clear deck, another 90 up diagonally towards pool wall and another 90 to enter via the return. So total of 3 90s, should be fine. Im trying to reduce gluing etc, as that's clearly a potentially failure point.

I didn't even think of cam locks. I have them on my animal tanks, so maybe I ought to look into those. But I think I might be fine without them. Once everything is glued in on the return side, that will stay there for a long time. And pump can be moved with the existing unions.

My main problem is the sand now, as stated above. The Doheny's service chat said to "send it" and if there's issues, they'll refund or replace the filter. They call for #20 media, which MW II .49/20 is, but I don't get how it possibly could work without blow-by through laterals. Rolling the lateral in a palm full of send embedded sand into the gaps and some even went through I think, which for sure would happen once system is under pressure I think.

I know backwash is needed before it's put into service. Is it then going to wash out all the smaller particles?

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Like I said about cam locks, if you are going to use them, you need to be able to slide your equipment/pipe enough to get the male end out of the female end.

Ccorbin28 said:

when you say automation are you refering to the salt cell control panel that allows you to up the % etc? or are you refering to apps on your phone? i would rather have no apps and my pool setup is all manual would love to keep it that way.

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I'm talking about app control. Having the ability to monitor and adjust SWG output via phone app. CircuPool is the better value if you're not planning on Pentair automation in the future.

Ccorbin28 said:

I'm more concerned about the longevity than I am the cost of the install

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CP has a good reputation here. My unit has been going strong for 4 years and others have great things to say about the RJ units.

Longevity can be achieved by maintaining proper water balance (CSI, TA. pH levels) to avoid damage to the plates and to mitigate scaling. Cells should only be cleaned when needed, not based on some random schedule.

I would be doing the install, i love working on stuff. This appears to come with the control panel and everything i would need to work with my Jandy Timer and equipment?

My timer appears to be Jandy JEP-R.

if so this is around the cost of the replacement Jandy salt Cell i would much rather do this, just would like to confirm. Thank you

Kaspergbge said:

So I missed that step and I was not able to pass the OCLT so I started the SLAM process again. I do that till I have one or less loss of PPM which I now understand. Thanks.

I still am wondering though how I know if it is dead algae or mustard algae cause in here it talkes about taking chlorine level higher during slam for Mustard algae.

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Have another read of the SLAM directions. You may pick up other things you missed previously.

There are 3 criteria to complete the SLAM.
OCLT 1 or less as you mentioned
AND, 0.5cc or less
AND, crystal clear water with no algae (dead or alive) How Clear is TFP Clear

For CYA of 30 that is FC of 12. Brush everything. Inside skimmers, drains, and ladders, and behind lights are common places for algae to hide and require extra work to remove and brush.

I can't tell if you have a light or not. If you do, clean behind it.

DEFINATELY, take that ladder out and scrub the inside.

I used this with some SLAM pool water: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q8GCGO

Ask me how I know...

Rob Plummer said:

. also noted on the strips for sure, they will not be used once I get my test kit.

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to clarify, the strips aren’t useful even now. Once chlorine levels get above what the strip can handle, they bleach out and fool you into thinking the chlorine is low. So you may have enough chlorine and not even know it.

Note: poolsupplydepot.net might not be related to Appaetech Pool Supply.

Address: 671 Professional Ave # 514, Henderson, NV 89015
Phone: (725) 205-1783.

Great. The pH will rise naturally with that TA.

Read the article I linked above.

I have nothing to add, I'm just strangely invested and want updates!

Good luck with your new pool adventure

I can send a pic later today when I get home

It’s not really thru the AL I just disconnected the power at the old junction box and moved it to the new transformer is does go thru the GFI on the Aqualink box

I’ve had an invisible algae bloom take 7-10 days to resolve. You never know.

FYI the folks who close my pool have started leaving a small floater strung to the middle of the pool and I have started adding a gallon of bleach under the corner of the cover with a little brushing every couple of days starting a week or 10 days before opening. It’s made a huge difference in my opening water quality.

It sounds like you’re dealing with a communication issue between the robot and the control box—which usually means there’s a problem with the data connection, especially if you’re using a Wi-Fi–enabled (IoT) model like the Nautilus CC Supreme.

All app-compatible Dolphin models use a three-wire blue cable:

• Two wires handle power,
• The third wire handles data communication (like manual drive, changing modes, etc.).

That’s why you might still be able to power it on from the app, but things like manual drive or mode changes fail—those need that third wire to work properly.

To reset everything:

Step-by-step reset:

1. Unplug your Wi-Fi router, wait 15 seconds, and plug it back in.
2. Unplug the Power Supply from the outlet, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in.
3. Disconnect the blue cable from the Power Supply, power it on, then wait 30 seconds and reconnect the blue cable—make sure it’s seated properly and the cable isn’t damaged.
4. Delete and reinstall the MyDolphin™ Plus app. When prompted, make sure to allow all permissions (especially Location and Bluetooth).
5. Confirm your Wi-Fi is on a 2.4GHz network (Dolphin robots don’t support 5GHz).

If that doesn’t resolve it, there may be a physical issue with the cable or connector—especially the data wire—and support can help test that further.

PS It will help you get quicker replies if you could fill out your signature. It's easy peasy and here's how.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

What kind of a timer is it? You want the pump powered 24/7 off the line-in side of the timer. Connect the SWG to the switched side of the timer. Control of the pump is done on the pump's control panel while the swg is controlled by the timer.

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It's this timer:


Thanks. that's a good idea. There is a master power switch for everything at the pad as well, so I guess it's good to have that to kill power to the pump if needed.

I see you just clarified you don't care about automation and you really don't want an app. You won't need automation with addition of Pentair or Circupool. You will need a new power unit that will be wall mounted close usually on the wall of your house behind the pool pad. It should be installed so you have an additional level of protection to prevent running the swg with no flow. There are lots of ways to do this but make sure your installer verifies he's doing it that way and specifically how that will be accomplished. We're here to answer any questions that may come up.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

SJPoe said:

Eventually though, it does. I did not buy a new Maytronics model, I chose one from their competition

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Agreed. I stayed on the fence when they started dropping like flies. Now that the EVOs are holding up well, my finances have changed.

mknauss said:

Welcome to the forum!
I suspect you are using test strips as the TA of 200 with a pH of 6.8 is not chemically compatible. Do NOT add any soda ash. In fact, never use soda ash.

You may want to consider following Seasonal Pools

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I'm using a test kit with liquid drops that tests Total alkalinity,Ph,Free Chlorine,Combined Chlorine,and acid demand. Last night TA was at 140 after adding muractic acid. Pump ran overnight for 9 hours The Ph is below 6.8 this is lowest on vial comparison. Guessing here Ph 6.4 or lower. I'll keep the baking soda for the kitchen LOL

To me it's strange. I got my first Pentair Prowler in 2017 and it ran great until the summer of 2024; back and forth problem. I tore into it and found out it was the motor driving the impeller which is typical. In the summer my Prowler is 80% in the pool 20% on the deck, and 100% inside fall/winter. I have no clue how I had so many trouble free years.
Back to 2024. Talking to the pool store owner about my issue he said that "it's common and time to buy a new one" which is why he does not sell them anymore "I have a pile of warranty returns in the back to prove it." I asked if I could salvage parts from them to fix mine and he told me to take them.
I will try to recall what I found: Out of the 7 I brought home 2 had bad cords, I believe 3 had bad power units, and the last 2 were a combination of bad cords and water damaged impeller motors. I ended up fixing mine, giving it to a buddy and keeping the best one for myself. I also had more power units than bots which leads me to believe they can be troublesome.
If I learned anything last summer from tearing 8 of these apart it is this:

• The cords are expensive and the swivel will fail. Maybe cleaning and lubing it yearly will extend its life.
• Impeller motor will eventually happen, but as I mentioned above it's fixable.
• The power box is also likely to fail but easily diagnosed. It outputs 30v. Keep this out of the sun!!!!
• The guts in the bot is the same across all 3 models with the exception of the 920. The mainboard is a different rev that does not have blue tooth. Power units are different as well.
• Keep the impeller free of debris; there are youtube videos on this.

I purchased two motor rebuild kits last summer to fix what I have; still in the box. The repair doesn't look too bad but does require some soldering and a small bearing puller. I imagine this is where some folks will tap out and buy a new one. With what I have piled up in my basement I am confident that I will run mine for another decade. I just snagged up a brand-new cord on marketplace last weekend for 85 bucks.

@Drew80 I believe the unit I kept out of the 7 was less than 1 year old. Not a scratch on it and nothing was faded from being in water. Not sure why it was warrantied, I tossed it in my pool plugged it in and off it went...

Ccorbin28 said:

I have an all manual salt pool with all Jandy equipment pool built in 2014 with built in spa and heater for both estimated gallons is 28-30k, just bought the home and the AquaPure 1400 is showing 125 & 194 error code. I had the cell and the cartridge filter cleaned still showing error, so I assume I need a new salt cell?

the big question is from my understand of the forums Pentair IC40 or IC60 is the best as far as salt cell equipment, is it possible to convert to Pentair only for the salt equipment? Would I have to buy Pentair control panel as well?

I am being quoted $1,350 for the Jandy 1400 salt cell that would be a direct replacement. I just want to buy once cry once and have the best equipment possible.

Thank you

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Welcome to TFP Corbin! I'd definitely do some troubleshooting to confirm it's done. And if so, we recommend 2x your pool size and I have a similar sized pool. I went with a Circupool RS60 and that's what I'd do if I was you. Both would need their own power supply also but I think you can use either you may be limited to run time only if you have Jandy automation. The cheapest solution is a generic replacement cell but given the fact your AquaPure is 10 years old I'd go for a replacement. Would be a shame if your AquaPure bit the dust next year or two with a new cell. A big reason I prefer Circupool is they give a full warranty for DIY. If that's not something you do and you may want to transition to Pentair over time the IC 60 may be a better choice for you.

I hope this helps.

Chris

P00LNerd said:

Well, yeah... I know 7.1 ain't bad. But that big red exclamation mark staring at me from the PoolMath Overview page just won't leave me alone, so I must drive it toward middle of range. Human nature.

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Are you going to let your life be driven by robots?

You have free will.

P00LNerd said:

I'm bummed that adding stabilizer didn't even nudge my TA a little, I think it's just destined to be forever high.

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Stabilizer does not lower TA. Adding Muriatic acid does.

P00LNerd said:

I'm not sure how much that really matters, but again, those Darn red exclamation marks shout at me from the PoolMath overview page.

Psychologists could learn a lot from studying human reaction to PoolMath. Or conversely, the developers of PoolMath might want to reconsider where they throw those alarming red exclamation marks, since I keep hearing "it doesn't matter".

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The exclamation marks get your attention, get you thinking, and focused on certain areas of concern.

You have the judgement to determine the correct action, not PoolMath.

Gnarbrah said:

SWG is on at 100%

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Running your SWG at 100% is one of the quickest ways to kill a cell. How long are you running your pump?

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

You would need to purchase the power center for the IC60 as well. Probably not the best value unless you are using Pentair automation to take full advantage of the system. Pentair's warranty is also limited for self-installs. A better choice is the CircuPool RJ60+. It's rated chlorine production is higher then most units out there, including the IC60, and you may be able to use your existing unions for the RJ cell. The warranty is pretty strong. Check out Discount Salt Pool for the best prices on the unit.

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okay so with the CircuPool RJ60 would I need their control panel?

I'm more concerned about the longevity than I am the cost of the install

when you say automation are you refering to the salt cell control panel that allows you to up the % etc? or are you refering to apps on your phone? i would rather have no apps and my pool setup is all manual would love to keep it that way.

Sorry you’ve had such a rough run with your units. The issue where the robot starts then stops after ~10 seconds is often related to a sensor or blockage.

Before requesting service, try these steps:

1. Don’t use an extension cord.
2. Unplug everything and inspect the blue cable and prongs.
3. Clean filters, impeller (careful—blades are sharp), and intakes.
4. Spin brushes/tracks manually – should rotate freely.
5. Test the unit upside down, plugged in outside the pool – it should rotate briefly, then stop.
6. Let it sit unplugged 15 sec, then try again in water.

Video for S200-type models: Login to view embedded media
If it still doesn’t work, definitely reach out to customer support—it may be a hardware fault.

Newdude said:

Or they proved during the shortages that terrible quality control would not affect revenue and customers would still buy several in a row, like OP.

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Eventually though, it does. I did not buy a new Maytronics model, I chose one from their competition. We're also seeing a lot of new entrants into the market, which we can only hope will spur all of them to raise their game somewhat.

Hey....we can hope anyway...

Forgot to post this. Maybe do a little more troubleshooting.