For the crack on the faceplate try to put some plastic bonder on it (or something similar that may be available in Sweden). Even though it appears not to be a leak, it is good to make it stronger and prevent it from getting worse.

For the skimmer plate it appears to be a seal leak. Can that skimmer be removed and seal inspected?

PoolStored said:

You know, funny. Didn't connect the dots until just now. When I was by the heater when I first started it up, I thought "This thing puts off a lot of heat, I don't remember it being this hot." Now it makes sense.

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When the heater is running the heat has to go somewhere- either into the water or out the exhaust or the heater overheats and the safeties shut it down.

With the bad UG limiting the water flow through the heat exchanger more heat went up the exhaust. That is as designed to keep the exhaust warmer than normal when the heater thinks the water is cold.

Is there a spider gasket in there? If that is torn it would allow flow to all ports. Also, you have to clean both sides where the gasket sits to ensure a good seal.

Using one national supplier for costs:

A replacement Tagelus is about $780, plus sand(+~$130)
A Pentair CCP 420 that I love - about $1529
The XtremePower - $420 plus sand

The issue on the Amazon find is replacement parts. While not a lot can go wrong, you may need spider gaskets or o-rings for the multiport, at some time - generally if someone moves the handle while under pressure. Unlikely any other brands will fit. Equipment from the majors will generally have very long time availability for parts.
So there is a risk that the less expensive will be come more so, if you have to replace it due to lack of parts.

While I push my cartridge (the CCP 420 is great, and your pool looks very close to mine in size), and never needing backwashing is fantastic. - The double or more cost can be a big pill to swallow.

Here's more info with determining how big a filter you should have: How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

If you add your pool and your equipment to your signature here, others with much greater knowledge can help with your size selection. Create Your Signature - Further Reading

Thanks for engaging.

The first photos are from the front of my skimmer, the faceplate. When I did the dyetest it was not obvisous that dye sipped trough the cracks. Where it was very obvious tho was in the part attached to this post. The joint where the

SKIMMER ESCUTCHEON PLATE meets with the skimmer tounge​

I might be able to remove front plate. The back not so much without cutting my drain plumbing

Aiper now has an S2 out. Seems to be slightly better than the S1.

One thing that caught my eye is they reference some sort of anti dump design. One weakness of the Betta is that when they reverse sometime they do spit out some of the debris. Now I am not saying the Aiper is better, I have no evidence of that.

Also my Bettas do occasionally get stuck at the skimmer due to suction. Dont know if the Aipers would be better at that.

If I did not already have two working Betta’s I would buy the Aiper for fun.

CodyPereira21 said:

View attachment 646527

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I want to love those kits because I like the colored plastic instead of a sticker, but unfortunately they are awful. They cheaped out on the pH reagent and it starts to get unreliable with as little as 3 ppm chlorine in the water. Then the OTO chlorine test that's very vague in the best kits is somehow made even less useful in this one. It was obviously built down to a very low price and sadly that made it about as useful as a test strip.

CodyPereira21 said:

tested for my Chlorine levels last night and they were through the roof

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Maybe, maybe not

Please read this

yep, probably springtails. Bifen and Acephate at the label rates for turfgrass. Spray any grass or mulch area around the pool.

setsailsoon said:

We are finishing our OB pool and we used marble pavers for the pool deck and patio. ~2000 sq ft in all and we're thrilled with it. We used 16" x 24" like your samples and it really looks nice. The leather finish makes it slip resistant and eliminates glare from the hot summer sun. On our hottest days you can stand on it and it's barely warm. 1st photo is after the acid wash just prior to sealing. You don't have to do this but it is a good idea to help keep it clean very easily.

Congrats and good luck with your new pool!

Chris

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We just had 16x24 leathered marble pavers laid for our pool patio. May I ask what they used for the joints because they have not yet finished ours and there is incredibly slight wobble to a lot of the pavers as you walk on them despite them look level. They have not yet set the edges with a mortar bed but know that itself won’t secure the pavers entirely.

tobitoy said:

I’m not sure if theres a crack in the pool Shell or if it’s just worn out gaskets

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Good point. It hard to tell in the photo. You have a better view. Your first photo showed a clear crack. Is that different from the other photos from the backside?
Can you remove that fitting to inspect, lube or change the seal on it?

@oledan You have a beautiful deck and pool. Now get rid of of those fold up chairs and pick up a nice set of Polywood Adirondack chairs from Costco. Make sure you buy the cushions too. They come with a nice little side table for your ashtray. The arms also are flat and you can put your drink on them.

You need to up your enjoyment level.

PoolStored said:

How are you testing your water?
To do OCLT and to SLAM, you need one of our recommended kits. Link-->Test Kits Compared

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I am going to look into those test kits this weekend. I tested for my Chlorine levels last night and they were through the roof... 10ppm based on the test kit I currently have (snip below)

Hey Bryan and Welcome !!!


How are you testing ?

How often are you testing ?

What is it testing ?


In range is a broad term that could mean a million things.

caycarem said:

Update - I was able to grab an aqualogic version N board from ebay for cheap with firmware 2.93. many things look different, I can see why I should not have flashed a newer firmware to the older board. But I'm a bit disappointed as it can only recognize 2 speeds (high/low) from the Ecostar VS. should have just used the relays for different speeds, and save the trouble.

anyone running into this thread and try to flash your firmware - don't do it, unless it's the same board version.

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Sorry for bumping a really old thread but I’m in a similar situation now.

My Aqualogic is on firmware 2.65 but I have someone locally that will upgrade it to 2.93.

I also picked up an older Ecostar VSP but the manual I found online says it’s compatible as of 2.65, so I’m really hoping I don’t have the same issues and I’m able to control the various speeds from the Aqualogic, any tips?

gerardr said:

I bought a house in February with this pool. I strongly suspect the cover hasn't been off in several years. I've no idea the water chemistry yet, I haven't gotten my test kit yet. What you see in the water is all sediment, it cleated almost completely with two days of running the filter (and two backwashes). The bottom is still covered in sediment in some places, A replacement drive belt for the in-pool cleaner is on order to take care of that.

View attachment 646312

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Be careful not to lower the water level too much (below 12”-18” in the shallow end) or you risk liner shift and it possibly drying out and shrinking so get some more water in there asap. If you haven’t already- start a thread and we can walk you through safely getting your pool back on track
i would also love to see your journey in more detail! Swamp to oasis is my jam

Also note, that the ta reduction won’t necessarily be linear as you have calculated. As the ta falls each ph reduction will likely have a greater effect on it each time.
Its ok & can be helpful to lower your ta if you’re trying to help reduce ph rise frequency but that is really the only reason you should consider it in your case. It is also not super necessary to do. As you manage your ph normally the ta will fall over time anyway & find it’s happy place.

One other reminder to yank those steps out and give them a thorough cleaning inside and out. If water can go there algae can grow there. Yes- inside.

Also think about how you weigh them down if they require weights. We recommend using separate sealed containers for weights and not pouring sand directly into the steps. Something like sand or concrete filled bleach jugs or the like with tape before capping (because bleach caps are vented) is common and cheap.

Hello,
while the first diagrams on post #2 is exactly the right type, it s for the wrong pool size so dimension and placement might be different.
Is there one for the requested pool size 32x16? (or even better a trusted source for multiple sizes)
how confident are we on these diagrams? (ie: are they from intex?)
Thanks in advance

Welcome!