Is there anything wrong with low TA if LSI is good?
- By PoolStored
- Just Getting Started
- 10 Replies
Consensus of 1. You are fine.consensus
Consensus of 1. You are fine.consensus
Okay now that is settled, let's focus on the actual question![]()
Indoor pools have less CO2 off-gassing (which drives pH up in outdoor pools), so a lower TA can still buffer pH effectively. You are not using lots of products that change pH (acid, CYA etc.), so it is likely you have enough buffering capacity for your pool. If it is stable, leave it.
Correct.Was that an accurate suggestion? I have been doing the same for a few weeks and my TA is now down to 90. Will it work if I just continue this process and once the TA hits 60 I should and can stop adding MA so frequently?
Welcome to TFP.
It is 40 if that is the point where you get no further color change.3 drops is very very close to the threshold color, but not quite. 4 drops is definitely there. I'm fairly sure 3.5 drops would achieve the same color. I'm calling that 35, but if we were to adhere to the test strictly, I guess we'd call that 40.
Are the 3 lights for the pool or is 2 for the pool and 1 for a spa? If all are for pool, then 1 switch is needed on your frame. You would add a 4th conduit near the 3 light pipes. connect all 3 lights to one line (in the new 4th conduit) which leads to a switch that has power.I'm a little confused how to mount this. I'm actually trying to figure the whole layout for my frame for my switches and and receptacle. I understand I need to bring power into it which. I guess I'll do a liquidtite whip from my j box with the power. Bit it looks like it has holes on the end for screw for it to be mounted to something . Not sure how I'd arrange that. Anyone have pics.
The flow rate is dependent on the system head (think resistance). It’s hard to say whether the current pump is capable or not without knowing the head. It can only do what 5hp can do. Part of the head is determined by static factors like difference in elevation, line diameter, quantity of things like skimmers and drains. Of course things that can change like mechanically like valve settings, plugged lines, dirty filters, etc all get considered too. I’ll let someone else give you more color on that topic, as my explanation in my head isn’t perfectly clear right now.Flow rate is typically 120 gpm. 170 gpm is required.
Maybe. Maybe not. It’ll rule out the clogged filter theory. The TR-140 filter comes in residential and commercial models. The commercial models come in a 2” glued fitting and a 3” flanged fitting model. 3” PVC has a cross section that is 2.25 times the size of 2”, so if you have 3” running to 2 x 2” filters you have a restriction by default before you ever get “inside” the filter. Bypassing the filter (the recirculate position) at the multiport valve won’t eliminate that because the valve itself becomes the restriction.If I place both filters in "Recirculation" mode and the flow rate does not increase at all, then that should rule out any issue with the filters, right? One of the proposals included replacing the filters.
Would Hayward OmniHub or OmniPL also work with my setup?
When you add all the optional boards needed for Hayward it may not be a big difference.They are significantly cheaper than Pentair IntelliCenter.
I don't think Hayward or Pentair automation controls a Pool Pilot SWG . You need to check with Autopilot.Just making sure that the controller works for controlling pool and booster pumps with solar and cleaner, and the salt chlorine generator.
This is my dads, they don’t have the money for a new $1,500 + wall.. bottom looks okay but there is a bubble in one spot. I warned that it needs to be a “floater” pool and I pray that you aren’t in it when it fails, hopefully not this year (steel wall installed in 1998). The final result is beautiful.. for now.Is this for a friend/family or a customer ?
At best its on very very borrowed time. How does the bottom rail look ?
A DE is a good filter. It just may take more time. Are you running your pump 24/7? Are you keeping your chloinre FC at SLAM level?Thank you! So the cloudiness is the dead algea? I still can't see the bottom of the pool and it is concerning. I will back wash again and continue to work the process but I have never had it last this long without clearing up. Is it possible the filter is not functioning properly? How can I check that?