Free Chlorine issue

We have suggested that you lower your CYA.
At high CYA you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize your water.

Your high chlorine loss and CC of 1.5, you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process
It will be VERY difficult and Very expensive to SLAM with CYA of 90.

I would replace 30% of your water, then follow the SLAM process.

See no drain water exchange here:
i will say i typed in the CC wrong. that is .5

Wiring help for a CircuPool RJ60+

Hey there! We just got our cell and flow switch installed on our plumbing (scary!) and now we've got the control module mounted up and are trying to get it wired to power. We have a Jandy variable speed pump and want to ensure that the unit only runs when the pump is on (double failsafe). The problem is that we can't seem to get power to the unit. We use iAquaLink automation systems and the pump is controlled digitally. We traced the wires from the top of the box labeled "filter pump" and connected the wires to the load side of the relay that they lead to, but nothing happened. We checked the fuses and all the connections and even brought it inside and switched it over to 120v, attached a household plug and were able to get power to the unit to test that it's operational. We also hooked it up to "aux 2" which controls the blower and heater and were able to get power there. But it simply will not work when connected to the pump relay (and the pump is running!).

I've attached a few pictures. Thank you to the volunteers who help us with this stuff :D

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Getting Started and Mineral Unit

  1. Most of that is excellent.
  2. When you test FC, use 10mL and each drop is .5 FC. Don't need .2 accuracy and 10mL will save reagent.
  3. You should keep your FC level based on your CYA. I would stay at the top of the range for your CYA, and if you have to dose higher, so that you are near the top of the range when you test, do that. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
  4. If there was visible algae, do the OCLT as you indicated.
Great job with the testing.

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Hayward spx3400dr variable speed pump tripping breaker

I bought a new breaker, but that wasn't the problem. The pump is turned off, but it still is tripping breaker instantly. It's attached to an Omni control system so I wouldn't think any power is even going to the pump.

Your pump is wired directly to the breaker as a VS pump should be.

As soon as you turn on the breaker you are powering the pump controls. Even if the pump motor is not running.

To be clear, are you saying that as soon as you turn on the 20A GFCI CB for the pump it trips off?


I'm not even sure a new pump would solve the problem since even when breaker is on, I don't think controller is sending power since it's off?

There is a difference between the VS pump control being on and the pump motor being on.

The OmniPL only controls the pump motor. If the pump CB is on, the pump controls are always on.

It is difficult seeing all the wiring around your pump CB from the angle of the picture you posted.

If you want to post more pictures of the panel and your pump showing the wiring, I will see if I spot anything wrong.

Right now it is pointing to your pump being the problem.

Replacing pool pump - where do I cut old plumbing?

As far as pipe, do I just go to Home Depot and get anything that says Schedule 40 on it and 2.5" diameter? For example this (this has the wrong diameter):

Adding backwash outlet pipe to pentair multiport

Hi - I’ve got a pentair multiport 261152 and the backwash port just ejects out the side of the valve assembly. I’d like to add a 90 degree turn and some additional piping to get it away from the filter area. The backwash port isn’t threaded so is this just finding pvc pipe that fits inside the backwash outlet and using pvc cement to connect it? I’ve searched the interwebs but found nothing on this….

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New Hayward Omni Firmware Update Available

Hayward MSP firmware update R5.1.0 has been posted; effective May 12th, for the Unified Control (OmniLogic, OmniPL, OmniHub) products.

Hayward Firmware Updates

New in this release
  • Support for Sun-aware schedules
  • Default filter pump schedule
    • 9:00am – 3:00pm at 50%
  • Security and reliability improvements

Release Notes .docx file converted to .pdf is attached.
And what is "sun-aware?" I've been harping on my rep that they have Sunrise & Sunset in the application, but they don't have those variables available as triggers for automation. I upgraded but Sunrise & Sunset still not available as triggers, so no idea what this means.

Mid slam. Clear water. Algae(?) on stone?

Any recommendations on how to remove it from the stone/kill it?
Odd areas like that tucked-away can collect stagnant water and may need a special treatment periodically. You might try spraying chlorine directly on that area (or a mixture 50/50 with water), let it sit for a couple minutes, then brush it off. That should do the trick.

Replacing pool pump - where do I cut old plumbing?

>> Spigot is to drain some water from the pool. Hook up a hose and open it. However you have a waste line on the MPV.
Do you think there's a point to installing the spigot in the new setup, given I can just use waste setting on the filter valve?

>> You can cut the pvc input to the pump right at the diverter
By diverter do you mean the black 3-way valve (Jandy valve)?

>> then use a "socket saver" (google/youtube search) to cut the remaining pipe out of the diverter
Yes, that would indeed be the ideal solution. How easy is it to screw this up? Are there any other tools/materials I should get to make extracting the old pipe from the 'diverter' easier?

>> Get new high temp unions for the pump
The pump came with the following hardware (2 sets of 2.5" and 3.0" couplings). Should I use this, or should I be getting something else?
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Filter