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Sendit6 · May 18, 2025

Dirk said:
Can you tie a knot in it, without deforming the net too much?

I’ll give that a try next time I change nets.

Sendit6 · May 18, 2025

When you say leave the metal connectors on, is that on the outlet end, where you are draining the water to?

If you cut the hose, then it’s just the soft, floppy opening that you put over the pvc outlet from the filter?

cfclay · May 18, 2025

ajw22 said:
Are you asking about vacuum hoses or vacuum cleaners?

There is nothing new and revolutionary in either.

Thanks for the question- I mean the vacuum hose head.

ajw22 · May 18, 2025

Are you asking about vacuum hoses or vacuum cleaners?

There is nothing new and revolutionary in either.

setsailsoon · May 18, 2025

mas985 said:
3-4 gallons of acid each week? Are you sure you need that much? That seems crazy high especially in FL where you have high rain fall.

We have very high PH/TA fill water (PH=8.0, TA>250) and I go through about a box (2x15% jugs) of acid every 4 weeks in the summer hot months and every 8-12 weeks in the winter with rain and lower evaporation.

Yep it's a new pool and it's pretty big. Plus we have a 32' Infinity wall so lots of opportunity to aerate. Also almost 800 square feet of surface area. I think when we cure it will do better but even my 12,000 gallon pool previously here in this area took a long time to cure. Never used this much acid in my life!

proavia · May 18, 2025

stretchphoto said:
I’m trying to decide what to throw away in my garage.

Thanks for the links.

If they are more than a couple years old or of an unknown date, toss them.

stretchphoto · May 18, 2025

I’m trying to decide what to throw away in my garage.

Thanks for the links.

PoolStored · May 18, 2025

Raise your TA with baking soda to 60. Test pH 30 minutes later. If 7.0 or above, leave it. If not, use borax to raise pH to 7.4.

TC_FLA · May 18, 2025

Thank you for the response - this is very helpful to know.

Salamander · May 18, 2025

PoolStored said:
Why? Fiber stuff is just one more hassle.

To catch iron that might otherwise not get filtered out and end up back in the pool. That seems to have helped with some people who’ve had recurring iron staining.

Antlo · May 18, 2025

Alright, slam is complete! Water is clear, OCLT passed. Need some advice on pH. It looks like it’s just below 7.0, or right at it. Tried to raise with some borax already but seemed to have no effect.

TA is 30. FC level is at 9, cya practically nonexistent. Is FC too high to be trying to fix pH? I have baking soda to increase TA. I need to get more borax if that’s the solution. Just wanna make sure pH is safe to swim!

FrogExaggerator · May 18, 2025

Here’s a picture of the light after I drained half the spa. The light also seems disconnected at the junction box (you can see it in the wider photo, and also a closeup of the box)

Bulb looks like it is LED (hard to see though the water and the glass but that’s what it looks like to me.)

Thoughts on what to do next?

FrogExaggerator · May 18, 2025

FrogExaggerator · May 18, 2025

FrogExaggerator · May 18, 2025

FrogExaggerator · May 18, 2025

FrogExaggerator · May 18, 2025

mknauss · May 18, 2025

Sand is pretty heavy and can fall to the bottom, especially as you cycle pressure (pump on and off).
Why do you change the cartridges so often? Mine lasted 8 years. The end caps cracked but they were still filtering just fine.

Bperry · May 18, 2025

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Measure the socket on a coupling. I seem to recall its less.

This ^. Should be closer to 1.25” - 1.375

proavia · May 18, 2025

BethBoggz said:
One more question. Do you guys know if this is safe for my dog? I’m a bit concerned with him but we are able to keep him out of the backyard area for awhile. Just not indefinitely. Thanks again

Check the product labeling and SDS.
Many times you can find this info on sites like DoMyOwn.com

Some products may state it is safe for animals and kids once the product is dry.
Other products may state different parameters.

PoolStored · May 18, 2025

Why are TFP Recommendations Different than Manufacturers? - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Cekkk · May 18, 2025

When I removed the cartridges from my clean and clear 420 I noticed that instead of being dirty looking, they were relatively clean. However, there was way more sand in the bottom of the bottom assembly part, if I can call it that, than I normally find. Since the other side of our backyard fence is the Mojave desert, I'm accustomed to having lots of sand on my cartridges. I have purchased new cartridges, but before I install them I just want to make sure that it was just old cartridges in need of replacement, or if I might have a problem. I replace the cartridges about every year or so. I appreciate your responses.

TC_FLA · May 18, 2025

I am just curious as to why an acceptable alkalinity level range is 50-90 ppm with ideal being 60-80 while Pinch a Penny and Leslie's use 80 - 120 and Swim University's range is 100 - 150 with ideal at 125?

Why would there be such a significant difference in acceptable ranges or is the difference not significant to the impact to the pool

cfclay · May 18, 2025

I have actually searched this in the forums and haven’t seen a post in a couple of years- wondering if there is anything new and revolutionary in this product.

PoolStored · May 18, 2025

Why? Fiber stuff is just one more hassle.

proavia · May 18, 2025

Those numbers from LPS are suspect.

Post a full set of results when you get fresh reagents.
Until then, use 40 as your CYA and dose to the high side of the FC range for your CYA.
FC/CYA Levels

If you run out of reagents again, just so state rather than post pool store numbers.
TFTestkits has a sale every March for refill kits. You should replace your reagents then.
How old are you other reagents?

Your other numbers look good.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · May 18, 2025

LoneStarPool said:
You guys are 100% correct. It's a 2" pipe. There were more fittings than pipe in that inlet section so I got confused and was measuring those instead. Will make getting the pipe much easier.

That little piece after the valve is 1.67" long. when I googled online it said I need 1.75" for a proper connection. Would 1.67" be enough?

Measure the socket on a coupling. I seem to recall its less.

mas985 · May 18, 2025

setsailsoon said:
PS TA of RO unit output is less than 10 ppm (turns red with first drop) and slightly acidic. And yes I do have to refill my 20# cylinder every 6 wks or so but it seems better to me than 3-4 gallons of muriatic acid each week.

3-4 gallons of acid each week? Are you sure you need that much? That seems crazy high especially in FL where you have high rain fall.

We have very high PH/TA fill water (PH=8.0, TA>250) and I go through about a box (2x15% jugs) of acid every 4 weeks in the summer hot months and every 8-12 weeks in the winter with rain and lower evaporation.

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Tips and Tricks

A good backwash hose

Pool hose vacuum hose head-any new recommendations?

Pool hose vacuum hose head-any new recommendations?

Obsessed to Avoid Jug-Lugging... the final frontier

R-7064 and R-7062

R-7064 and R-7062

Back almost exactly one year later to open again! A few questions

Alkalinity level

Polyquat 60 and Jacks Purple Stuff

Back almost exactly one year later to open again! A few questions

New here and new to pools. Let's start with the pool lights

New here and new to pools. Let's start with the pool lights

IMG_5570.jpg

IMG_5572.jpg

New here and new to pools. Let's start with the pool lights

IMG_5571.jpeg

Sand in filter bottom

Replacing pool pump - where do I cut old plumbing?

Help

Alkalinity level

Why are TFP Recommendations Different than Manufacturers? - Further Reading

Sand in filter bottom

Alkalinity level

Pool hose vacuum hose head-any new recommendations?

Polyquat 60 and Jacks Purple Stuff

Adding baking soda low tA

Replacing pool pump - where do I cut old plumbing?

Obsessed to Avoid Jug-Lugging... the final frontier

Filter