JamesW said:

Filter pressure at different speeds?

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Filter pressure varies maybe 10 PSI at the various speeds, at low flows it’s around 5 PSI and going up to 15 when priming or running the pump at high speeds (2500+ RPM)

ajw22 said:

You will also lose CYA and CH with the drain. So check your CYA level after the fill and add stabilizer as needed.

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Yup. Thanks

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.



Yup, that can do it.

The Intellichor Installation Manual says - For best flow sensing, provide at least 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet.

That check valve is not needed with a SWG. It is leftover from when tablet chlorinators were used.

If I were you I would remove the check valve cover, remove the spring and flapper, and replace the cover. See what difference it makes.

Your SWG should get flow on at around 1800 - 2000 RPM.

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I was thinking about giving this a try as well. Why does the SWG not require a check valve to prevent water from flowing back into the heater? I understand the cell won’t generate chlorine at low/no flow conditions, but the water sitting in the cell when pump stops could flow back into the heater? Is it just not enough chlorine present to make a big impact in terms of corrosion?

You will also lose CYA and CH with the drain. So check your CYA level after the fill and add stabilizer as needed.

You may have air in the gas line that needs to be purged.

You may have to go through ignition cycles and lockouts several times, as a bit of air is purged with each cycle until the heater gets gas.


If the ignition is unsuccessful or the flame fails during normal operation, the ignition control shuts off the gasvalve. The heater will then go through a post-purge process and attempt to establish stable combustion two additional times. If ignition is unsuccessful after three attempts, the system will lock out.

The Installation Manual says to reset the heater after a lock out:

• Turn OFF the power at the breaker for the power cycle, then turn it back ON.
• Access either the Pool or Spa mode.

A member reported that it did not work. Holding the Pool Menu and Spa, which brings up a menu to reset the latch fault, did.

How many times a day are you testing and adding chlorine?

ajw22 said:

You need to drain about 20% of your pool to lower the salt to around 3200 and lower the amps for longevity of the Aquarite circuits.

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Fantastic. Thanks for your help. I'm going to shut it off for now and monitor FC levels, will drain late evening and refill before hot sun hits.

If you look at the bottom of the unit, it will say what year the ic40 is. They only last 5 years. That being said, maybe its time for a new unit

You need to drain about 20% of your pool to lower the salt to around 3200 and lower the amps for longevity of the Aquarite circuits.

With an aux relay on the prologic, it's not automatic and defeats the purpose of having an auto actuating valve imo.
There is no way to do this simple thing on a prologic. Which sucks. But is what it is.
I wanted it so when the spa pump is on, the valve is set to the correct direction. And same for when its off. Automatically.

When it comes to my plumbing. Thats a whole other story. Its much more complicated than this valve setup. And i just don't have the time to lay it all out.
Simply put - the spa and pool have a shared heater but with separate pumps/filters.
The valve in question changes where the water is returned to the pool/spa.
In the direction for the pool it returns to the pool through a 8 zone caretaker99.
If the spa pump is on while the valve is in the pool direction, it sucks all water from the spa and into the pool. Emptying the spa, and eventually running the pump/filter dry.
If pool pump is on while in the spa direction it just overflows from spa into the pool. Which can cause a huge issue if my heater is set to auto. It can empty my 250g LP tank in a night.

I'm also working on an auto top off for the pool using a float switch im putting in the pools skimmer area.

Off = 31.9v/0amps/0 instant salt
Off to Auto = 25.9/7.55/4000
Auto delayed = 25.9/7.51/4000

Show us pictures of the pump and the leak area.

Checked chems this morning. Added enough CYA to bring me up to 80. Jumped in to cool off after push mowing the pool yard and again after mowing the outer yard with the tractor. Need air temps to come up just a bit for it to be comfortable to be swimming but it felt good to cool off and rinse off the dust.

--Jeff

ajw22 said:

Jacuzzi does not manufacture any of its pool equipment. They put their brand on other manufacturers' white label models.

The JSCS40 looks like the Circupool SJ model SWG.

CircuPool SJ-20 Saltwater Chlorinator for up to 20000 gallon salt water pools

www.circupool.com

O-rings are a commodity product and are generally available. I suggest you measure the O-ring size and read...

O-Rings - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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I checked and the o-ring I tried to replace it was for that model swg. It still leaks. Both the original and new o-rings are in good condition with no nicks, cracks or flat spots. I used pool lube when I installed. I’m at a loss as to what to do now.

Drained about 3" of water from the pool today. A series of rain storms had raised the water level to the top of the skimmer. The chemical level have all decreased a little bit. Nothing real urgent needs to be taken care of.

Right now I'm having persistently high FC levels. I keep lowering the output yet the FC is still rising. I lowered the output from 40 to 20 a little over a week ago and now I lowered it to 10% since FC went from 11 to 12.5 ppm in the last week. I'd like to see it at around 6 ppm. I may shut down the SWG for a few days.

Uhhello said:

I cycled to off, let it sit, and and back to auto. Get 7.9v and 3900 instant salt.

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7.9V or amps?

If that is amps you are right at the 8 amp maximum where the system will shutdown to prevent damage.

Normal amps should be in the low 6's with salinity in the low 3000's..

ajw22 said:

31.9 is the voltage, and 0.00 is the amps when the cell is in a resting state and not generating chlorine.

Report all diagnostic readings when you..

• Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
• Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
• Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Moving the switch from AUTO to OFF and back triggers the cell to generate, and by doing it twice, it checks the diagnostics on both cell polarities.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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Scroll up, I did that. I'll do in the order you suggested again though. Thanks.

Uhhello said:

While generating, i'm showing 4200, 76deg, 31.9, 0.00, -0.
So that doesn't look good per the manual? I'm not showing a salt calibration or amps..

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31.9 is the voltage, and 0.00 is the amps when the cell is in a resting state and not generating chlorine.

Report all diagnostic readings when you..

• Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
• Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
• Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Moving the switch from AUTO to OFF and back triggers the cell to generate, and by doing it twice, it checks the diagnostics on both cell polarities.

I have nothing to add that is of benefit to this conversation but I would like to say these discussions are why I follow TFP. Guys like @JoyfulNoise, @JamesW and @mas985 (among others) say it works, I know they've put some thought into it and can back it up with hard numbers.

I'm just here to watch and learn.

--Jeff

dereksanders said:

If so inclined, you can find plans and build your own for the cost of the lumber which will cost substantially less and provide more satisfaction.

Once I get home I’ll take a pic of mine.

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As promised and needs a bit of work. I keep it tarped over the winter.

I cycled to off, let it sit, and and back to auto. Get 7.9v and 3900 instant salt.

If I switch to super cholrinate i get good readings for all. I switched it back to auto, it shows a generating light and levels go back to the previous posts readings.

We let it warm to room when we first tested this spring. Now water is 78. I will try the link you said the next test. We always test inside with bright led lights

Another idea is silicone that comes in a tube. Apply it around the perimeter and squeeze it together to seal.

We have suggested that you lower your CYA.
At high CYA you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize your water.

Your high chlorine loss and CC of 1.5, you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process
It will be VERY difficult and Very expensive to SLAM with CYA of 90.

I would replace 30% of your water, then follow the SLAM process.

See no drain water exchange here:

PoolStored said:

For the FC and CC test, use 10mL sample and each drop is .5 FC. Will save reagent.

Forget R-0006.
Post a picture of the pH test in the comparator and your assessment of pH level.
If the sample turns red, pink, or yellow, you are done, your TA is zero, and your PH is very very low (4.5 or lower).
Use Soda Ash aka Washing Soda. Calculate how much to use using Poolmath. Set pH of 6.8 now and 7.5 as target. Enter 0 for TA. Add amount it states and circulate 30 minutes. Test pH, repeat until your pH is in the 7's, then test TA,.

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Ok so I put in all the numbers. It has its recommendations up. I’m not sure how to share it to post