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Uhhello · May 17, 2025

I cycled to off, let it sit, and and back to auto. Get 7.9v and 3900 instant salt.

TC1006 · May 17, 2025

Hi Folks,
We’ve only had our heater for less than a year and recently had to turn off our main gas line for a day.

Ever since the heater is throwing an error stating:

Fault Ignition Control Lockout. Service Required.

I have tried many things including turning off the breaker for several minibus it always starts up that way.

Any recommendations on how to troubleshoot?

Unfortunately, our pool guy cannot come check it out for two weeks and our kids really want to get in the pool.

Thanks

Uhhello · May 17, 2025

If I switch to super cholrinate i get good readings for all. I switched it back to auto, it shows a generating light and levels go back to the previous posts readings.

Fathead657 · May 17, 2025

We let it warm to room when we first tested this spring. Now water is 78. I will try the link you said the next test. We always test inside with bright led lights

HermanTX · May 17, 2025

Another idea is silicone that comes in a tube. Apply it around the perimeter and squeeze it together to seal.

PoolStored · May 17, 2025

We have suggested that you lower your CYA.
At high CYA you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize your water.

Your high chlorine loss and CC of 1.5, you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process
It will be VERY difficult and Very expensive to SLAM with CYA of 90.

I would replace 30% of your water, then follow the SLAM process.

See no drain water exchange here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Uhhello · May 17, 2025

Screenshot 2025-05-17 at 12.53.58 PM.png

kbranford · May 17, 2025

PoolStored said:
For the FC and CC test, use 10mL sample and each drop is .5 FC. Will save reagent.

Forget R-0006.
Post a picture of the pH test in the comparator and your assessment of pH level.
If the sample turns red, pink, or yellow, you are done, your TA is zero, and your PH is very very low (4.5 or lower).
Use Soda Ash aka Washing Soda. Calculate how much to use using Poolmath. Set pH of 6.8 now and 7.5 as target. Enter 0 for TA. Add amount it states and circulate 30 minutes. Test pH, repeat until your pH is in the 7's, then test TA,.

Ok so I put in all the numbers. It has its recommendations up. I’m not sure how to share it to post

Uhhello · May 17, 2025

ajw22 said:
4200 is too high for the Aquarite and will draw high amps which will heat electrical components causing them to fail.

Press the button and cycle through the diagnostic information. I am curious what your amps are.

But I think you need to drain your pool and lower the salt level so the Aquarite displays in the low 3000.

While generating, i'm showing 4200, 76deg, 31.9, 0.00, -0.
So that doesn't look good per the manual? I'm not showing a salt calibration or amps..

ajw22 · May 17, 2025

Welcome to TFP.

Does your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, you have algae consuming all the chlorine the cell is producing and you need to follow the SLAM Processto get your pool algae free.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Algae Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

Rob Plummer · May 17, 2025

Pool is still clear. I put in 1 gallon of liquid shock per pool math yesterday. Here are the numbers today.
Fc 1.5
Cc 1.5
Ph 7.3
Cya 80 but could be 90
Ta 90
Ch 75

I am concerned as to what after adding a gallon of shock to bring fc to 9 is it completely depleted today? Or at least back down to 1.5 fc

PoolStored · May 17, 2025

Fathead657 said:
This spring water was 46 and cloudy teated 50. Now it’s less than 30

You need to allow it to come to room temperature, or warm the sample bottle.

I would also follow the process here:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

proavia · May 17, 2025

Welcome to TFP! :wave:

What test kit are you using?
Post a full set of current test results.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt (if you have a SWG)
Water temperature

Post your tap water pH, TA and CH as well
Likely your tap water CH Is 175-250. With evaporation as our temps rise, the CH will increase as well.

Walkermik99 · May 17, 2025

Hi. Does anyone have any experience or tried to jack up a full U framed pool that is not level. I need to get some higher boards under my frame support but it's not the same as what I've seen with people jacking up the straight single supports. There's not much room for anything to fit and I tried on one side and it kinda crushed the pole that goes around the pool. I can get to the outer supports but not the middle ones.

manyxblessed · May 17, 2025

We took it to the pool store. They checked the cable and it was fine, they checked the power supply and it works with nothing connected to it. When you connect the vacuum and try to turn it on the light flashes and nothing else happens. Hubby had purchased a new cable. Is the cable supposed to only have two prongs? There are four holes in the power supply. Thank you for any suggestions?

Fathead657 · May 17, 2025

Donldson said:
Was the water still cold when you did that first CYA test?

Last year at end of season water was 88 and clear cya was 70. This spring water was 46 and cloudy teated 50. Now it’s less than 30

ajw22 · May 17, 2025

This what you did connected to a current sensing relay instead of an AUX relay?

tcat · May 17, 2025

Floundy said:
I’m amazed they actually sent you an improved Seagull Pro unit with the 5th wheel; Aiper customer service had refused to send me the newest version last summer vs a refurbished unit.
Post in thread 'Aiper Seagull Pro Review'
Aiper Seagull Pro Review

After 10 weeks of waiting and frustrating email exchanges, I finally received a refurbished SN62 version in September (not the newest w/5th wheel). It has been working properly since then, EXCEPT like the original unit, the mode dial is now nearly impossible to turn despite being rinsed with fresh water after use. I really don’t want to deal with Aiper customer service again…

I sprayed some WD40 on the dial (on my old one) and it got very easy to turn.

ajw22 · May 17, 2025

4200 is too high for the Aquarite and will draw high amps which will heat electrical components causing them to fail.

Press the button and cycle through the diagnostic information. I am curious what your amps are.

But I think you need to drain your pool and lower the salt level so the Aquarite displays in the low 3000.

Jimrahbe · May 17, 2025

Loki,

I am not sure what drops those 'cones', but it would no longer be around my pool... :mrgreen:

I am a big robot cleaner fan, but I suspect that that a robot cleaner would have the same problems that all your other cleaners are having..

I assume that they do not float... :scratch:

Thanks,

Jim R.

ajw22 · May 17, 2025

Welcome to TFP.

Chlorine always first if it is low.

Be aware adding calcium has found to cause FC to drop to 0. Watch your FC level after adding calcium and raise it back up if it drops.

Stabilizer/CYA will lower pH a bit but your TA should raise your pH naturally.

JoyfulNoise · May 17, 2025

What does the valve control? Maybe show the plumbing setup to better help anyone reading this understand what you are doing?

jim.wilson01 · May 17, 2025

Hayward variable speed, running at high 3450 speed, and yes the jet not working is the 1st in the loop

Uhhello · May 17, 2025

ajw22 said:
What salt test kit?

What does your Aquarite display show?

The one in my signature. TF Pro. Cell shows 4200

Bperry · May 17, 2025

tpiglia1 said:
Hey! We have a 25,000 gallon salt water pool with a sand filter. In mid February we replaced the salt cell because it was at the end of its life. At the same time we had to drain the pool to replace the lights. Ever since then we have had issues with no chlorine in the pool. At first we thought we were just having issues with getting all the chemicals back to a stable level. However, we just checked it again and everything is within normal limits except for a pH of 8.0 and 0 chlorine (salt 3200 and stabilizer 60) . We have a pentair IC salt cell. We have the company that installed it coming back out to check it out. Is there anything that we are missing that could be causing no chlorine to be produced besides the salt cell?

Thanks in advance!

Depending on what size the cell is, how high it’s turned up, and whether you have algae brewing -unseen for the moment- can all be possibilities. Can you post the complete set of test results?

LokiDucks · May 17, 2025

These hard little cones are the bane of my pool-ownership existence.

I have the 4-wheel Hayward Pool Cleaner and it cannot handle the cones -- they will clog up the intake whether I use the big mouth to let it in, or the little mouth to try to get it to just go past. This results in my vac getting stuck and needing to be fished out, unclogged, etc.

I've had the pool for going on 4 years now, so feeling like it could be time to upgrade my vacuum anyway. Maybe get something that also scrubs the walls to reduce day-to-day maintenance a bit. I was originally leaning keeping things on the suction-side with the Polaris Maxx / Atlas. But I'm not sure if I'll run into the same clogging problem with its intake based on the pictures I've seen online.

I've also been looking at some of the robots like the Dolphin Premier or the Zodiac 9550 Sport. But i'm also not convinced they'll overcome the cones either (plus, higher cost and seemingly all-over-the-place reviews).

Looking for any thoughts from the group here.

Pool Details: SWG, 16k gallons, 30ft x 16ft, in-ground, pebble, San Diego

LokiDucks · May 17, 2025

ajw22 · May 17, 2025

Uhhello said:
Salt test

What salt test kit?

What does your Aquarite display show?

Bperry · May 17, 2025

conklin17 said:
Hey all. Just drained recently and had a company add some cya after they got the pump up and running. Currently PH and alkynity are good but my chlorine, cya, and calcium are all pretty low. Does it matter in which order I balance these out? Thank you

Chlorine is always first, as long as you are testing with your own reliable kit and not depending on questionable pool store testing. Here’s a link for details on why:

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

kimkats · May 17, 2025

MommaBear14 said:
HTH 6-way test kit.

You are off to a great start!! Well done!

That is a good kit as it has almost all of the tests you need. The biggest problem is the number of tests you can do with this "baby kit". You will only get a couple/few tests out of each one. The test kits we recommend are more bang for your buck in that they have a LOT more of the regents to do the tests.

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