Thank you for adding me!! I'm excited to find a site that helps with pool chemicals and

Good morning. My wife and I picked up a 12x22 6,000gal above ground pool from Costco a couple years back and have loved having it. We have three boys and it’s a daily activity for our family during the summer here in the PNW.

We’ve struggled toward the end of summer each year with algae blooms and cloudiness, wholly due to a lack of scientific approach to pool chemistry on our part.

In preparation for this year we tried to do our due diligence and research better care techniques and that’s how we stumbled across TFP. First off, this site’s reputation for kind members is rightfully earned. The amount and quality of assistance I saw people offer to other member is wonderful. So thank you for creating that environment here.

After reading through a lot of threads on this site we decided to make a change and ordered a SWG and the TF-100 Salt test kit with magnetic stirrer. Huge praise here to the quality of the rest kit and the clear instructions. It’s a nice complete product and we’re pleased with that.

I read through the Pool Chemistry pages here, downloaded the pool math app, and then set up our pool a week ago. We started with manually chlorinating with bleach, added baking soda, and 160lb of salt. We let that circulate and fully dissolve. We overshot the salt content - it measured at 3900 - so we drained down some water per the app, refilled, and retested. I’ve spent the last couple days logging tests and working to get us to a good baseline with all readings in spec but am struggling to get TA within range. Please see attached photo of last night’s values.

The relationship between TA and pH is present but I’m uncertain how to get these two to where they need to be. The recommended step for pH is to add 3.2oz of soda ash but the TA instructions are vague stating

To lower TA you reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH.

Can any of you help point me in the right direction on these final startup values please? Thanks in advance for your help.

Hey y'all,

Newb here. Just got our first pool up and running early yesterday morning. While I'm waiting on my test kit to get here, I had my water tested at a pool store. They used some type of computer analysis they said.

FC 1.8
Cya 51
Total alkalinity 65
PH 7
Total chlorine 3.1
Calcium hardness 80

Looks like I need to add chlorine for the fc/cya balance but what else should I do?

Sorry if this is a trivial question, but my attempts to find something on this using search got me to a 2011 thread and the forum platform recommended starting a new thread.

I have a pool with a 2010 vintage Hayward Goldline AquaPlus controller. I own the thing since the 2016 season and it hasn't given me much trouble. The electrode is about a year old and clean, salt is at 2800 (where it has always been). Starting early this season, I kept getting 'low voltage' errors but it was making chlorine just fine. In the last two weeks, I have been getting 'no cell power' errors and it has stopped making chlorine. If I start the controller, and go into the diagnostic menu changing the polarity, I get somewhat erratic readings:

In one polarity it gives me
+27.05V +4.1A
81F 1500 ppm

In the other polarity it gives me
-25.64V -6.25A
81F 2800 ppm

The latter is in keeping with numbers I have seen over the years, the former seems to be abnormally low for the amps with a erratic sensed salt reading.

Does this behavior point to any specific failure ? What would be the next diagnostic steps ? Given the sheer number of connectors, I have yet to pull the controller off its mounts to check for the infamous 'K1 solder joint'. It's something I can do, I just want to avoid ****** something up if I can help it.

For now I am maintaining chlorine by adding tabs, but I rather get back to the thing working on its own without me having to do anything.

I have a fairly large disparity between my ScreenLogic and Vis-A-Flow (about 10 GPM). This has resulted in "flow" errors on the IC40. My filter is just cleaned and the IC40 was cleaned at the start of the season (April). I am just trying to figure out where the ScreenLogic is getting the GPM reading from (pump or IC40) so I can figure out how to clean/troubleshoot. For setup, it is running through the heater, then the Vis-A-Flo check valve , then through the IC40. When I bypass the heater it goes straight from the filter to the IC40 and the readings look normal on ScreenLogic. I have attached a picture of the setup (the IC40 is mounted where the blue painters tape is). I guess my question is, how there could be a 10 GPM difference between the Vis-A-Flow and the IC40. Taking the flowmeter apart to see if there is any sort of blockage, but any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

Was hyperfocused on getting this pool level and situated and didn't give any thought to chemicals until now. I ordered the Taylor K-2005 test kit, after doing some research I also ordered a salt water generator, but neither will come until Wednesday. Also have CYA coming tomorrow. Is it ok to hold off until I have some known parameters or is there some "safe" dose of chlorine to put in an untreated pool to hold over until then? Thank you!

Hi all! I've been trying to get my mother's SWG pool in order this summer so it's a bit more sustainable for her to maintain between when I visit. The stats in my profile should be accurate but here's a rundown of the system and current chemical levels:

~15,300 gal salt water pool
Gunite and plaster (in ground)
Location: Houston (super hot right now)
Sun: in full sun from about 11 - 5
SWG: Circupool COre35 running at 50% from 8-6 7 days/wk

Latest test:
FC: 1.5
CC: 1.0
TC: 2.5
pH: 7.8
TA: 110
CH: 300
CYA: 47
Salt: 3300
Temp: 85.1
CSI: 0.18

pH has been high (8.3 avg) for months and I've been dumping in Muriatic acid to combat that. For whatever reason, I'm having to add about double what Pool Math suggests to get pH to start trending down. My plan was to lower pH to 7.2 and then aerate (with hot tub blower) up to 7.8 to lower TA at the same time. So far, 7.8 is the lowest I've gotten the pH without dumping over a gallon of acid in.

Likewise, CYA has been low (averaging 20). Pool Math suggested 2 gallons of conditioner which only raised it to ~50 as we see now. Apparently I need to go buy more. I was also noticing some light green algae on the walls which I was able to brush off easily.

I was doing some reading and it seems that since my pH is high, CYA is low, and TA is high, a chlorine tablet might do exactly what I need. I have some chlorine tabs here (don't know why) that I can certainly use but I wanted to run this plan by the brain trust first. Is there anything I'm missing with using a chlorine tab?

If the chlorine tab isn't the best thing to do, what's a better method? And why does it seem like I need to dump 2-3 gal of Muriatic acid in to get pH down to 7.2 to aerate back up?

Thanks!

Anyone has tried swapping a Polaris control unit from a model to another one?

Trying to identify my sand filter after the label has worn off. I can't see any identifying marks aside from the labels on the top, which seem pretty standard to me (not well versed here, but this is my second pool).
It's got a 22" diameter (or very close to that) and the tank itself is about 24" high, not including the stand or the attachments. I know for sure the pool was here in 2011 due to some real-estate photos, but I'm assuming it was installed around 2005 or so. Any idea how to go about identifying this thing?

Hi! We are building our pool and having a hard time deciding on a color. Our builder uses CL Industries but their site is not ideal with samples. I think we narrowed down our color to Blue Pearl and Grey Reef Pearl but can’t really find a ton of pictures. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!!! I’m looking for a more “natural” blue color since we are having a natural rock waterfall put in and we live in a highly wooded area with a lot of pine trees. Our coping is bluestone. We have a sunshelf and spa, and the pool will be 3.5-6 ft. Also, do you think our tile will make a huge difference. Attached is a picture of the blue pearl with the bluestone coping and the color tile we picked out. They didn’t have a grey reef sample in the office.

My aquarite system is reading high salt. I replaced the cell with an aftermarket one which displayed high salt. After testing with strips it showed about 4200. I drained and replaced about 15" of water. My strips then showed 2800. I started reading reviews for the aftermarket cell and found many people have the high salt issue with it.
I then bought a hayward t15 cell like we had before and after install i am still reading high salt. The display doesn't show the cell type in diagnostics. I only have 7 slots when pushing the button instead of 8.
I have a 88-0 setting which i can't find any info on. I need some help with this please.

My pool contractor is charging for a couple mosaic designs to go in and then says that the plaster company is going to charge another fee to go around it? We feel we have been nickeled and dimed throughout this process. Does this seem right? Our tile store said that most companies install the mosaics for free and don’t charge extra “to go around it”.

This is the same company that is charging the same price for pebbletec as pebble sheen when everywhere else I read that pebble sheen is an upgrade.

Your thoughts?

So asking you guys that seem to be much smarter than me with chemistry and math. double check me please.

My pool uses 1 gallon of MA a week. I’m plagued with high TA for my water fill. With the 34.5% MA I am installing a automatic acid dispenser. I got a Stenner pump that operates at 0.89 ounzes per minute. I also have 15 gallon barrel for a 3 to 1 dilution. So… trying to get a rough estimate where to start, so here is my thinking…

I need 1 gallon a week which is 128 fl ounzes, divide by 7 days to get 18.3 ounzes of acid needed daily. 3 to 1 dilution would mean the pool needs (18.3oz acid, 54.9oz water) 73.2 ounzes of the dilution daily. The pump at 0.89 ounces per minute means it’s needs to run for 82.2 minutes (73.2 divided by 0.89).

Does the sound somewhat correct?

Hey All,
Throwing this out there. I lost my cya test tube (so ashamed).
Is there any way to test cya level without it?
Hope all is well! Thanks.
Steve

It seems like there are only two options for pool umbrella sleeves that you can put in a sun shelf, but they are both 1.5”. We’re looking to get a larger umbrella (11’ or 13’) and they have 2.25 - 2.5” aluminum center poles.

Is anyone aware of a sleeve, that has a cap, for larger diameter umbrellas? Or is there a problem in going with just a PVC sleeve, without a cap? These will be in the sun shelf, not out on the deck, so ideally won’t fill with leaves and such?

I may have to replace my Pentair IC40 again. We just haven't had good luck with the Pentair brand SWG since about 2yrs after we installed our pool. Looking at the CircuPool RJ-60 Plus SWG. Any feedback? Or is there something better?

​

I’m having a Hayward T 15 installed this Thursday. My pool is 18000 gallons 18 X 33 feet oblong. Ive read somewhere,on TFP I think, that it might be good to have the cell installed vertically. I run my Hayward VSP 24/7. Daytime 12 hrs around. 2400 rpm and at night 12 hrs around 1200 rpm .
Does anyone have experience with this and recommendations about the cell positioning vertical vs horizontal?

My cell is 95% dead and discount salt said I can send it in and get a 40% discount if it’s bad but have to pay shipping to and from.
Or they offered me a 20% discount to just buy a new one which I picked. Going with out a cell for 2 weeks or more would be challenging since liquid chlorine is hard to find and expensive.

At 100% power it’s only pulling 52 watts when it should be closer to 200 so not making a lot but enough to help.

Over all happy with discount salt customer support

I have a question on my pool plumbing. Should the heat pump have a by-pass for the water? My concern is that if the heat pump fails [leaks] that I will be unable to run the pump and filter. Is this something I should be concerned with and have it done? Here is a pic of my current set-up.

After a two week vacation we came home to a very cloudy pool. I took a water sample to the pool store a day ago and it was calculated. I needed pool stabilizer and GLB Super Sonic. Followed instructions and pool is still cloudy. I can barely see the bottom at the shallow end. Polaris is running. There is still froth on the top of the pool and clarity is a bit better. Any suggestions. Inground pool. 20X40.

Hi - had a quick question about output percentage and temperature. Is there a chart or anything that can help with scaling up the output% as the temperature rises. This is the first summer of the pool and so far we have been dialed in all the chemicals. Just as the heat started to hit the chlorine level dropped bc I had the output % around 40%. I added some shock and bumped up to 75% which should help.

wasnt sure if there was a rule of thumb based on the temperature and output%s.

thanks!

I just purchased a Dolphin active 40. It constantly gets stuck on the main drain cover. I tried tuning off the pump for the main drain which helped somewhat. I purchased the zodiac unibridge main drain cover (on Amazon $76). I tried it with no modifications. The dolphin had some success but still got stuck. So I took prior advice and removed the unibridge from the pool , and then used a jig saw to cut the center out. Walah!! The dolphin has now been transversing the cover 100 % of the time. Had this not worked I was considering returning the dolphin.

Moved from here.

I have dual basic timers, one for the Polaris and one for the pump/filter. Last week the cleaner timer wasn’t working , so I would manually turned on and off.( inside the pump time). I noticed yesterday it wasn’t seated properly and corrected this and now it working fine, but the pump timer isn’t working now, seems to be correctly positioned! .what would your recommendation be, replace both? We are not very DIY here, so if it’s complicated ,I will need to call the pool person, who opens and closes our pool.

Morning folks!

I’ve noticed that each time we lose power, which happens every 3-4 weeks around here, the pool circuit reverts to off on the IntelliCenter. This results in the pump not running until I notice or remember to go check it. Is there a way to change the default to “prior state”? I’ve looked everywhere but can’t seem to find it if it is there. Thanks!

For those of you with a deck around your pool seems most of these have the decking going under the top rail. How do you get the winter cover on it.

A few months ago we had plaster pool resurfaced with tile. Within a couple of months, there were a couple of white spots in the grout lines. Now, approx 6 months later, there are hundreds of spots with a white substance on the grout lines. On the pool sides, the white substance is oozing down from the grout lines. Chemistry continues to maintained just as it was before the tile was installed. We never saw anything like this in the plaster pool that we maintained for 13 years before deciding to do the upgrade. It is salt water pool - always has been. The water is hard in the area.

Possibly unrelated - but the bottom of the pool is extremely slippery as well.

Any advice would be appreciated. What are the best practices for prepping a plaster pool to install tile? Should the plaster have been removed? Was there a sealer that was needed before installing the tile?

Thanks for your help.

My Taylor K-2005 rest kit arrived today. CYA is through the roof! I keep draining water and refilling, but I don’t seem to be making any progress. Pool is 3 years old. I’m only using liquid chlorine now. Started the season with granular shock which was my downfall.

I have a vinyl liner 18,000 gallon. Chlorine.

ph: 7.4
TA: 240 without the conversion for Cya
Free Chlorine: 4
Total Chlorine: 5
Combined: 1

I’m trying to refill with my hose. Would it be cost effective to have water delivered?

Thank you!

I have a pump suction cover at the deep end of the pool that has broken out in the middle.
There are locations for counter sunk screw but nothing in them.
Is this an O ring fit or are these threaded?
Thanks for your help

My pump is tripping breaker immediately on attempt to start the pump. Pentair equipment. Did get 1-1.5 inches of rain today. Also have had problems with salt cell acting strange over last month. Flow light often red but does turn green eventually (sometimes hour or more) and then will go back to red off and on. Cleaned cell, water pressure is very good when pump was running. Just seems something goofy with flow switch but sharing this just in case I have some weird electrical issues going on. Had panel display replaced in April because lightning strike fried it. Everything seemed to be working for 2 months except salt cell issues mentioned above. Thoughts on what might be going on and what to check first? Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.

did the bucket test and have about an inch leaking per day. plugged the returns and skimmer still leaked about the same level. found 2 tiny holes and patched it. this morning, when pump is off, saw lots tiny bubbles around the both returns and the patch area. what does that means?

prastic stairs have some small bump/ blisters , food dye test did not see water run into it.

l thought the returns and suction side is ok as the water was dropped under returns and a bit lower than light when we open the pool few days ago.

thanks for any help. leak detection company is about 1 hour drive away. hope to find some clues before we have to call them (holiday weekend. have to wait for Monday)