Sorry if this is a trivial question, but my attempts to find something on this using search got me to a 2011 thread and the forum platform recommended starting a new thread.
I have a pool with a 2010 vintage Hayward Goldline AquaPlus controller. I own the thing since the 2016 season and it hasn't given me much trouble. The electrode is about a year old and clean, salt is at 2800 (where it has always been). Starting early this season, I kept getting 'low voltage' errors but it was making chlorine just fine. In the last two weeks, I have been getting 'no cell power' errors and it has stopped making chlorine. If I start the controller, and go into the diagnostic menu changing the polarity, I get somewhat erratic readings:
In one polarity it gives me
+27.05V +4.1A
81F 1500 ppm
In the other polarity it gives me
-25.64V -6.25A
81F 2800 ppm
The latter is in keeping with numbers I have seen over the years, the former seems to be abnormally low for the amps with a erratic sensed salt reading.
Does this behavior point to any specific failure ? What would be the next diagnostic steps ? Given the sheer number of connectors, I have yet to pull the controller off its mounts to check for the infamous 'K1 solder joint'. It's something I can do, I just want to avoid ****** something up if I can help it.
For now I am maintaining chlorine by adding tabs, but I rather get back to the thing working on its own without me having to do anything.
I have a pool with a 2010 vintage Hayward Goldline AquaPlus controller. I own the thing since the 2016 season and it hasn't given me much trouble. The electrode is about a year old and clean, salt is at 2800 (where it has always been). Starting early this season, I kept getting 'low voltage' errors but it was making chlorine just fine. In the last two weeks, I have been getting 'no cell power' errors and it has stopped making chlorine. If I start the controller, and go into the diagnostic menu changing the polarity, I get somewhat erratic readings:
In one polarity it gives me
+27.05V +4.1A
81F 1500 ppm
In the other polarity it gives me
-25.64V -6.25A
81F 2800 ppm
The latter is in keeping with numbers I have seen over the years, the former seems to be abnormally low for the amps with a erratic sensed salt reading.
Does this behavior point to any specific failure ? What would be the next diagnostic steps ? Given the sheer number of connectors, I have yet to pull the controller off its mounts to check for the infamous 'K1 solder joint'. It's something I can do, I just want to avoid ****** something up if I can help it.
For now I am maintaining chlorine by adding tabs, but I rather get back to the thing working on its own without me having to do anything.
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