I'm planning to move my pump and filter from the side of the pool to the side of the new deck once it's finished. This puts plumbing runs right around 15-20 ft, sort of like this:



Plumbing will be mostly under the deck, so I plan to leave the PVC above ground because it's largely protected by the deck and to make it easier to service if needed. I want to make sure the plumbing is mostly level and not running uphill, so I probably need to support the PVC a little off the ground at the pool and up until it reaches the pump to compensate for the grade. How do you support the pipe? Or maybe I'm overthinking it, and you just run it along the ground and don't worry about it. I'd guess the grade is probably 6-10 in. higher at the pump than it is at the pool.

Hello,

Our new gunite pool is ready to be plastered with Hydrazzo. The temps in New York for the next 30 days are potentially chilly. Highs in the 60's, lows in the 40's. I really wanted to try and get this plastered this year. The springtime can be just as chilly. I don't think it should be much of a problem, but I'm wrong half the time. I figure for the next 30 days the plaster will cure nicely. I would not close the pool until mid November to give it 45 days before we close it down. Am I taking too much of a chance. I don't believe I am allowed to use the electric heater for the pool during the plaster cure period?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Hello Everyone,

I'm new to the forum, so please be gentle with me!!

I purchased a new pool liner 3 years ago and I have found the print has started to rub off.

I've never had this problem before so I'm not convinced it's bad water chemistry?

Am I at fault or is it a fault of the pool liner material?

Has anyone else had this where the print literally rubs off?

I've seen liners, bleach, fade and crease... but not like this.

The lines look like packing creases from when the liner was originally packaged up and sent to us.

Any advise is much appreciated.

I am now realizing I could have saved myself a lot of trouble in other areas if I had started here first. But we are almost to the point of Coping, and starting to think about the interior finish. We want a midcentury modern type feel (workign with what we had to start with)and had been set on the SconeScapes Mini White, but when I look at the photos of the surface itself it looks yellow. I am worried against the stark white waterline tile it will look weird. Am I over thinking things, it's going to be under water all the time.. so does that matter? The StoneScapes Micro White looks nice and white, has anyone used that? Any suggestions? Ill post some before and current photos below.

I messed up and let the dirt accumulate on the floor over time. I vacuumed and clean filters and passed vacuum over it again but the floors are stained and brushing it over and over doesn’t seem to work. Any thoughts or ideas on how to fix this?

Greeting, I have a new to me 20x40 in ground vinyl pool with two skimmers and two returns, no drain.
Being new to the pool I had a pool service close the pool for the winter. It can get below zero during winter months.
First the pool was drained down about an inch below the skimmer.
Then I watched him add one way return plugs and blew out the return lines with compressed air. Then working from the skimmer side he blew out the skimmer lines, closed off the valves, stuck two gallon bottles in each skimmer and he was done.

Now we have had a ton of rain. The pool level is now an inch over the skimmer and the skimmer is full of water. The pool guy did not plug the skimmer pipes with anything, they are wide open. Do I need to be concerned about the water getting deep into the pipes and freezing?

For the past few years I've been using cellulose fiber in place of DE and have had generally good results. I was looking online to buy some more, and came across some stuff called gransorb which is a cellulose fiber used for cleaning oil spills and the like. I was wondering if something like that would work the same as, for example, fiberclear. It's a lot cheaper and comes in much larger bags as it's marketed for commercial use.

I have recently purchased a house in Australia with a pool and the skimmer has no weir.

The skimmer opening is approximately 250mm wide and 150mm high. The following came out of the skimmer box and I presume this is the attachment to somehow attach the weir door too? The model number is 20796 although I couldn't find anything on Google about this.

Does anyone have any idea what sort of skimmer door I should be looking for and whether I need additional fittings to attach it?

The skimmer box doesn't have any holes/screws for a door to attach too.

I've just lost use of my pool equipment after a lightning strike. No lights will come on my control panel. The pump won't come on. My indoor control panel has no power. The poolside remote has not power. I have done a little sleuthing with the help of some computer engineer friends. We've verified that I can get power from the breaker panel to the filter pump relay in the panel and to the leads attaching to the circuit board in the pic. We jumped the fuse to see if we could get power to the DC "converter" and found no voltage. My friends suggested that replacing EPROMs with multiple prongs has high failure rate. Capacitors with 2 prongs aren't the hardest but take a solder suckers/solder irons/solder, etc and time to identify and replace. So, what advice would you give me, y'all?

1. Replace parts myself:
-I'm not sure whether to start replacing the Jandy circuit board or if it's still made?
-What if I get a new Jandy circuit board and it still doesn't work? I can move on to the next component, right? Relays and pump capacitors if wiring is okay?
-I'm not sure where to buy any of these components so I could use some advice here. I haven't needed to buy anything but cartridge filters and pool lights.

2. Call a pool guy who will charge $172 to take a look:
-Is this guy going to have a bias for replacing equipment? They have to make a living somehow, right?
-Anything I should ask pool guy?

3. Call a pool electrician?
-Maybe most general pool guys just install new stuff and a pool electrician can do a better job finding out what's wrong?

4. If I can't find the parts, then how much of an upgrade should I consider other than my budget? I believe my signature has all the equipment listed, but I attached photos of my equipment.
-Would there be any partial replacement scenarios that would work? It seems having a new variable speed pump and a control panel that has a reliable iPhone app would be preferable and would get me a functional pool.
-From TFPs, it seems Pentair and Hayward brands are popular! Are there any advantages to staying with Hayward equipment?
-I will want to upgrade other parts eventually as they fail such as my pool deck surface and pool surface, too. Longterm, maybe we will add a hot tub/spa? I've got two kids in college currently, so a large loan might scare that Crud out of me!

Let me know what I can do to focus my efforts more on getting to a functional pool again, please?

Thanks in advance!

Inside the control panel. The relay in the upper left relay is where the 2 black power wires attach from the main breaker panel. FYI, the water fill feather stopped working years ago.

Jandy circuit board/panel

Main Pump (It's a tank!)

Cartridge Filter

Booster pump for pressure side cleaner


Automated valve that sends flow to the waterfall

Indoor control panel

Poolside control panel

So we normally close the pool between Oct 10-15. We are in Michigan. This year the pool store (they close our pool) messed up and didn't schedule my closing so they have me now scheduled close to November. this is unacceptable as I have a 100 year old oak tree that hangs over my pool and the leaves and upkeep are unbearable beyond Oct 15. they have an opening on Oct 3. I realize it's only a week earlier than we'd normally close but it is unseasonable cold right now. the weather next week looks to be warmer - 66-67, and up to possibly 69 on Oct 11. Am I ok closing? I use a tarp cover. my water is currently 65 degrees, but I just turned the heater way down in case it's periodically coming on.

My pool is 13 months old and the equipment pad is the pre-fabricated concrete. The ground has settled on one side and the pad actually cracked down the middle. Of the side that is settling is the side with my filter and there is a lean going on with the filter.
Anybody have this problem and what did you do?
If you have any ideas I'm all ears.
Dig out from the side and jack it up some how and shovel a layer of pea gravel and then top soil. Jacking it up will be the hard part.
I need to fix this before I put a fence around it.

I live in Maryland and plan to close my pool myself for the first time. Overall, the process seems straightforward except for winterizing the sheer descents pump. I have a dedicated pump located below the waterline that pulls water from a dedicated drain in the deep end. The return is a single pipe into the ground that feeds 4 sheer descents. There is only one valve on the suction side of the pump.

Specific questions: how do I get all the water out? It seems like water could easily get trapped in one of the pipes to a sheer descent because there’s no way to isolate each of the pipes.

Another question: how do I connect my air blower to blow out the suction side? My other pumps have threaded plugs that I can attach my Cyclone. This pump does not. Is there a fitting I can use to the actual pump?

Thanks!

Hi guys, I hope I am posting correctly. Newbie here. Also newbie to pool world and let me tell you- fun times.
Last week my husband and I have come to the conclusion that we have a water leak in our inground salt water pool.
Within 18 hours we will lose a couple inches of water, then I turned the pump off because the pump had no water barely left in it (where you would prime the pump). I hope this makes sense. Looks like water usually stops after first step into pool/ about 2” lower.
So we repeated this 3 times and are certain we have a leak bc of where it stops everytime. Mind you-We turn the pump off everytime at same spot bc don’t want to ruin the pump.
What do you suggest we do? My husband is adamant on doing this ourselves bc we gotta learn anyway so seeking advice. husband and I are not agreeing. He thinks we should buy a sealant and run through system and hope it fixes our issue. I’m all for getting the dye and crossing our fingers we find the leak in liner. Please help guide us. We’ve been in this house almost 3 years and have had nothing but issues, one after another - most recent having to purchase a new heater.
Thank you
Nat

Hello friends,

I was just curious if anyone has ever connected two suction side pool cleaners to one suction port or pump?

I would ideally like to have a cleaner in the pool and another in the spa.

Would a Y work?

Greetings all! We are a service company in the state of Delaware. You guys have some great info here!

Wouldn’t plugs like this seal better?

Is the filter pump head affected if the equipment pad is about 15" lower than the pool?

My pool's elevation has to match my houses elevation since we are extending the deck. Currently they made the pad at the same height of the pool, but i want the framing to be flush with the ground. Will lowing the pad 14" dramatically affect the pump head?

As we all know, you can only adjust the Intellichlor's output by 20 percentage points at a time using the controls on the cell. This is proving to be difficult. I am not willing to spend thousands more just to gain finer control of the cell, so I have been exploring my options.

I'm wondering what's the least expensive way of gaining control over the IC60 cell. So far it seems like to me the cheapest option is to buy an IntelliPH and chuck the tank/pump and just use the controller to control the IC60. I say chuck the IntelliPH because it's a "dumb" system and just injects acid every hour regardless of your actual pH.

My nautilus broke and while I had to wait almost two months for parts I kind of let dirt just settle on the floor. I went and bought a pool vacuum and was able to vacuum leaves and some Other stuff but it seems like the dirt has bonded to the gunite. I’ve brushed and brushed and brushed and it just doesn’t seem to want to brush up. It’s not algae and I’ve finally got my nautilus put back together but it doesn’t seem to get the dirt or whatever. Anyone ever have this issue or a fix?

We are refinishing a community pool (about 40 years old or more) and have gotten quite a few quotes. With the size of the pool and the amount of money, we have a choice of plaster or quartz. We have decided that quartz will likely be the answer because it seems to hold up better to chemical fluctuations, and sometimes we find out late that we didn't hire the best maintenance company. We are located in Texas.
I have a few questions that I haven't really found enough answers to.

#1. I'm seeing an option between 40% quartz (Altima Premium) or 100% quartz (Marquis Magic). Can anyone tell me the pros and cons?

#2. The cost between bond coating and stripping the pool is very different. However, we have 2 quotes specifically one that includes stripping the pool down to the concrete shell and one that would only test to see where it is necessary and strip some of the plaster, but otherwise using a bond coat. Both gave answers I've seen pop up in various threads - stripping might damage gunite vs bonding has more issues and doesn't bond well (they do offer 5-10 year warranty - so maybe this is an unnecessary worry). So what is the consensus on bonding vs stripping?

Thank you so much in advance!

Fairly new pool owner. For the past year I've been maintaining our pool. I only test pH and for chlorine so far. Main source of chlorine is the jumbo tabs.

In the past I was adding about 1 cup of muriatic acid per week to keep the ph down around 7.4 to 7.6. lately I've been having to add more and more and have been adding around a cup per day to keep the ph down around 7.8.

I tested cya levels and came up with over 100 using the tf100 kit I bought a year ago.

Water is nice and clean and blue. What should my next step be? I'm thinking about partially draining the pool but I'm not sure how to check if I have a hydrostatic valve in place and if I do how it works. Do I have to open it?

Moved from here.. New Member! Want to help me build my pool?

Just curious, where did you get the triangle shades?

Please post pictures of your Latham grey mosaic or blue mosaic. Having a hard time deciding on a new liner. Our current liner is royal prism and is 13 years old. Any fading with the mosaics? Thank you

This will be the first year closing my pool, and due to how long it had been closed previously (possibly 10 years) the plugs were pretty badly damaged when we removed them.
Total length is about 7.5 inches, both plugs are 1.75 inches diameter at the top (#9?). The spacer between them is 4 inches, from the bottom of the bottom plug to the top of the top plug is 6 inches.

24,000 gallon in-ground pool, 11 years old. Just had the liner replaced. My liner guy (who frequents TFP and will probably see this, hey Mike!) has replaced 100's of liners and is very, very adamant that I rip the SWG out of my pool and use something, anything else. He says that salt-water pool wall damage during liner replacements are usually way worse that non-salt. I really don't want to rip out my SWG as we love it! From what I've read on TFP, it appears that the salinity levels in a SWG pool are extremely low and won't corrode metal if you keep your pool balanced, which I do. I try to keep my PH between 7.4 and 7.8. It's never lower, but sometimes I've caught it up over 8.

So I guess my question is....is there any truth to a SWG corroding pool walls? I'd love to hear from people with a lot of personal experience and/or the science behind it. Would also love to see some wall pics from non-SWG pools during liner replacements (kinda like pool porn). Attached are pics of my pool walls. Thanks in advance TFP'ers!
-Bryan

Pump was making a high pitched whining noise, it'd go away but then come right back, I figured the pump was going to stop at any moment. I went to work and the next morning, the pump wouldn't turn on, ERR 02 code. I checked to make sure 230v was going into the pump... yes. I used compressed air and blew the fan in the rear. I removed the covering in the rear and tried to hand spin the blade and it was very tough to spin. I figure the motor is shot. I got think I got this in 2016. Anything else I should replace while I have this thing open?

Hi All,
I haven't found much with searching for granite countertop or any countertops recommendations for a swim up bar. Currently, we have a sunken deck planned for next to our shallow end with the plan to have a large granite countertop installed instead of stone coping. We plan on overhanging the pool side by about 4 inches and the deck side by approx 13" with the pool wall being 13" already. The length is approx 10 feet so roughly 25 sq ft of counter.

Is granite the best option for this type of countertop or is there a better stone (quartz, silestone, etc)? Is granite a stone that needs sealing to prevent staining from either drink spills or the pool water (SWG)?

Can anyone provide any insight or experience on this? Thanks in advance.

We have a small fiberglass pool (10 x 20). Largest we could fit on our large lot due to septic system. We love everything about the pool. We went with fiberglass because we have two golden retrievers that LOVE to swim! We have a problem with (we think) calcium buildup on the sides of the pool. Has anyone tried to power wash their fiberglass pool??? I've read articles that say NO and others that say yes. Don't want to damage the pool. Any input? Thanks

My vinyl liner has wrinkles in the corners along the wall that developed suddenly over the past week. This is our third season and never had this issue before. No leaks detected using the bucket test and water chemistry maintained regularly. This leads me to a ground water issue but are there tell take signs it is definitely ground water or is there another possibility? Take a look at the picture. The corners in the shallow end have more wrinkles with the deep end only slightly visible.

Reaching out to see what others think about what we can/should do.

We have a new vinyl pool and it has been leaking since day 1. One leak has been isolated to a return line. The line is flex pvc from the pad up until the wall where it has two 90 degree fittings and connects to the wall fitting. The leak detection company says they cannot hear the leak at the wall and have been unable to pinpoint the location. So, the leak is somewhere under our concrete deck.

The concrete is colored with a buff wash finish.

The pool builder wants to plug the return (we have 2 others). His other option is to cut holes in the concrete to find and fix the leak.
There's a hole in the liner, too, so builder will replace that and can just block off the return like it was never there (if we choose that).

In the picture below:
green circles=returns that work
blue rectangle=skimmers
red circle and line=leaking return and line
green line=able to pressure test this portion of the line and it is ok

The pool is 44'x22'. The concrete deck is 7' on the bottom and 7'-22' on the right (where loungers are pictured).
Pool walls are a composite from OnlyAlpha.
There is a bench running the length of the wall with the 2 skimmers and its nice to turn on the heater and sit in front of the return(s).

Any advice on other options or what we should do? Obviously not at all happy about a leak in a brand new build and want it fixed, but also don't want odd concrete cut-outs that likely will not match the rest of the deck.

Thx!