Hello, we recently had our pool opened and discovered that we had a break in one of the lines. We are in the St Louis area so a freeze break could be a possibility. I am posting the break for any input. Thank you.

I have a damaged 17 year-old concrete pool deck for a vinyl-lined pool. (Pic 1)


The area by the pool steps, which is a molded one-piece set of steps, is sinking (Pics 2, 3, 4) and there is a long crack running through several sections to the side of the pool. (Pic 5)





The steps also appear to have sunken an inch at the exit point (at the top of the steps; Pics 6, 7). Also, the coping by the steps has sunk and is experiencing misalignment. Hard to see in the photos.



Once contractor proposes a cantilever deck. They have told me they have done many cantilever pool decks but they are not a pool builder. The estimator didn’t think the steps were sinking when she visited during the pool season and water was lower. With the water higher, it looks obvious.

I asked how the cantilever deck is kept from shifting the pool wall with expansion and got this reply: “We use a bond-breaker material between the pool shell and the concrete to allow for proper movement as the concrete expands and contracts with temperature changes.” Case closed?

This made me wonder about the liner track. The coping seems to be directly on top of the track. (Pic 8) Not all tracks are like this apparently. Will bond-breaker material affect keeping the liner track in place? I'm also wondering if the track will get out of position when the coping is removed.


The proposals doesn't mention addressing why the area is sinking. Is it safe to assume it will stop? We bought the place in 2013 and it seems like the area has sunk more since then. Could water be seeping in at top of steps from spashing/waves and eroding the ground underneath?

Any advice appreciated.

Hi. My ph was creeping up last summer and this year when I opened it was 8. TA 80(pool store said 77). After adding ph minus to bring down to 7.7 I was shocked that TA went to 90. Fully expected it to go down. Tested twice. Could this be right?

I recently had the two actuators replaced do to faulting wiring (the pool/spa main drain suction and pool/spa return actuators). When the new actuators were replaced on both the “spillover” feature that usually retuned water from the spa to the pool is now opposite. When I turn on the spillover feature the Jandy actuator actuates the pool/spa return water and return water to from the POOL to the SPA and NOT the main drain suction as it did before from SPA to POOL. The dip switch #3 is turned on as well. Could it be the actuators were placed in the wrong AUX on the iAqualink?

To give you some context of our pool and spa setup. The pool and spa are two bodies of water running on the same filter pump. They are on a schedule and alternate filtration on different times of the day. The main filter pump runs 24hrs per day and also adjusts RPM's throughout the day as well.

I hope all this makes sense.....

Pool equipment setup:

• Jandy Filter Pump - both pool and spa on same pump
• Jandy Heater for both pool and spa
• Jandy SWG for both pool and spa
• Jandy Actuator value on main drain/pool/spa suction
• Jandy Actuator value on pool/spa return
• Cyclone filter/Jandy pump for rain curtain
• Jandy pump for secondary water feature

Long time lurker, first time poster, be gentle

The chlorine in my pool keeps dropping down to 0 after installing two different brand new chlorinators. Tried everything, including pre-emptive phosphate starver treatement. Help...

Historically used vintage metal box Kchlor AC20 non-self cleaning chlorinator kept the chlorine well, then failed.

Two months ago I replaced it with Freeflo RP25 self cleaning chlorinator. Water chemistry tests were balanced and salt level ok as confirmed by tests in three different pool shops. The chlorinator produced a lot of bubles, but the chlorine kept dropping down to zero after I top it up with liquid chlorine. Returned chlorinator after 1 month.

A month ago pool shop installed AstralPool E25 self cleaning chlorinator. Water chemistry tests were balanced and salt level ok as confirmed by tests in three different pool shops. The chlorinator produces a lot of bubles, but the chlorine keeps dropping down to zero after I top it up with liquid chlorine.

Total Cl: 0.16
Free Cl: 0.09
Combined Cl: 0.07
Salt: 4878
Ph: 7.5
Alk (adj): 110
Cya: 61
Hardness: 345
Phosphates: 0
Total Cu: 0

35,000 litre, concrete pool, in-ground, plaster, blanket
Sand filter, more than 10 years old
Peristaltic HCL doser
Solar heating was on, now off with the same result
Non-variable pumps, more than 10 years old
AstralPool E25 self cleaning
Chlorinator at maximum setting
Robot pool cleanter
Running 8 hours a day (8 am to 12 pm, 1 pm to 5 pm)
Water clear, but goes murky if I stop manually adding liquid Cl every day

Not sure if it is relevant, but the first two chlorinators used to produce white powder (CaCO3?) ouf the jets, the third one does not.

https://www.poolbarn.com.au/wp-cont...905-H0712400_REVB-AstralPool-Eseries-2023.pdf

I am aware that testing water yourself using Taylor test kit is more precise and I am planning to buy it in the future, but at this time I am relying on pool shop tests. I have tested water in three different pool shops who are using different test equipment with results showing similar results of balanced water and acceptable salt levels.

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Notice a small trickle of water today coming from the pool light junction box today. Looks like I’ve already lost a few inches of water over the past few days.

The junction box is 14-18” above the pool level. Trying to figure out why/how this happened and what I can do to stop it.

Searched the forum already and read things about plugging the top of the pipe. Any idea why it is now happening? Thanks for all the feedback and advice!

The Dolphin S400 is one of the top-of-line pool cleaner robot. It cost me around ~$1700 about 6 months ago. I was a bit hesitant to get a robot because I know that I have to run an extension cord and likely leave the robot next to the pool side full time unlike the pool side cleaners. 6 months later, the covered caddy and extension cord, as I have thought before, is an eye sore for my backyard/pool probably because for the last 15+ years, I've kept all equipment above the pool out of sight. But here is a shortlist of issues I have experienced with this specific pool cleaner robot:

1. The Fan Blade and Motor location: It takes 4 screws to take apart the cover for the fan to clean out debris like palm fibers and pine needles. Debris gets in there ALL the time. There is only a small opening to pull the debris out without unscrewing 4 screws and removing the fan cover which makes it very difficult and cumbersome. I suggest a re-engineering to make it easier to remove debris from the fan blades because it happens very often.

2. Suction and Opening: The opening for the suction is very slim and oak leaves could barely fit through. I get a few oak leaves and sand only after a 2 hour schedule despite an abandons of leaves and debris still in the pool. I see it roll over very small debris without sucking it up despite 2 brushes (front and back). I estimate that it only picks up 10% of the debris it rolls over. Additionally, the filter basket is small and can fit about 2 adult fist size inside. The good is that the filters are fine, and there are 2 of them inside.

3. Navigation Gizmo: It rolls back and forth, go straight for a short distance, stops just in front of an area full of debris and sand/dust, and backs up and goes somewhere else. I have been spent countless times and durations trying to learn the algorithms, but it does not make sense to me. Its movement is not smart at all and the result is inefficient when cleaning the pool for a 2 hour session. Also, you can only schedule 1 cleaning session per day. It may work for a 1 pass in a 15K pool. Compared to a pool side suction cleaner, I have a Pentair Krauly that appears to work much better than the S400 for less than half the price. The S400 can climb from 8ft depth to 4 ft, but it is slow.

4. The Tethering Cord: It needs AC power. The cord gets in the way of my Beatbot Iskimmer. I thought about the aesthetics, the power requirement, and having a caddy at the pool side. After 6 months, I prefer not to have it. If the robot was as effective or better than my pool side suction, I would live with it. However, I think there could be better solutions since I have no 120V power at the pool side (code issue), and I personally do not like extension cord and caddy always visible.

If you have a robot before, and it worked before, you may consider the S400 at $1700. However, if you have a pool side suction cleaner, I recommend sticking with that method of pool cleaning. And if you want some exercise once or twice a week, do the manual method. If you are like me, I like to use technology that actually "enables" me to clean my pool with less effort and time. I am sorry to say that the S400 does not live up to that requirement, and it will be on the resale market soon.

In Phoenix and our water is very hard which means high CH. I’ve been lazy all winter about keeping logs but CH is nearing 1000 ppm. Phoenix CCR has fill water hardness anywhere from 150-350. Pool was just built, and filled, November 2023 so about a year and a half with the same water.

How high do you let CH go and keep CSI managed vs succumbing to the water exchange? I’d hate to have to do a water exchange every year but the calcium is out of control.

I put a new salt cell (Generic T-15) on my AquaPlus system. I'm getting "Chlorinator Off, No Cell Power" and "Check System, Cell Power 1" error messages. Read pretty much all the stuff here and elsewhere. Replaced the GLX-PCB-Pro mainboard with a new one. Changed the 20A fuse to 15A before starting up. Replaced Rectifiers. Transformer voltages seem fine. None of the mainboards appeared to have scorch marks or cold solder joints. I got the last new board to run for about 4 days and things seem fine. Now that board is giving me the errors. I also tried my old salt cell without luck.
I can't think of anything else at this point. I'm considering returning the mainboard and salt cell and trying yet again but I'm starting to have my doubts whether something else is going on. Any ideas?

We're doing a pool remodel and would like to add a baja shelf/sun ledge. I didn't realize there were so many different methods to build the ledge. Our pool is 20x40 and we wanted our ledge to be 9x8 in the shallow end. It would be approximately 3 ft tall. Our contractor said there are 3 options:
1. Use cinder blocks to build the wall (with rebar). Fill the ledge with our old concrete coping (smashed up). Cover with 6 inches of concrete on top.
2. Build wall using concrete mold (with rebar). Fill the ledge with gravel or our old concrete coping. Cover with concrete on top.
3. Build rebar cage. Fill with concrete.

Can you share your thoughts on these options? Thank you!

Hello again,
We just opened our pool in CO for the 4th season and the chemicals seem to be at their worst. The company that opened our pool on Monday said the Ph was really high (not sure if/how they tested it) and put 64 oz of 20' muriatic acid in. They also put in 2 lbs of 54% cal-hypo shock. I was busy and didn't run my own tests that day (two days ago). I ran my test today and holy cow, things are a mess. I'm mostly concerned with the CC level as I tested twice and got 5.5 and 6.0. That would suggest that my break-even chlorination level is 55! That's >9 lbs of shock and that just feels like a bad idea.

My main question is- do I just drain the pool and start over? Below are my full readings as of today. For now, I'm trying to bring down the Ph and then will work on the CC based on the advice I get here. Thx for any advice!

FC- 0.5
CC- 5.5-6.0
Ph- it was purple. It took 7 drops of R015 to get to about 7.4. That suggests 70 oz of acid but I put in 50 to start and will recheck tomorrow morning. I also turned the pump up to 2,300 RPM.
TA- 130 (for some reason my TA always goes up over short periods of time. It was 80 when I closed the pool in October. Hopefully addressing the Ph situation will get me back down around 100 and I'll go from there)
CH- 370
CYA- zero. I plan to address this after the Ph and chlorine concerns. This was 60 when I closed the pool.
Salt- 3,000. I plan to address this after the Ph and chlorine concerns. This was 3,200 when I closed the pool.
Temp- 68
CSI- pool math can't calculate it given the Ph level

This is our second above ground pool, first one being last summer. The first one was ruined (12×20 Coleman) because the cable for the cover ripped out one of the fittings after snow and rain pulled on it. Lesson learned.

Now, we have a Seaich 12x20 and I'm not seeing how the pump should be plumbed, as far as intake/outlet. It only has 2 holes for this....one up high and the other very low. Any idea which way to run the hoses? It came with a sand filter, if that helps.

Also, should we really put pavers under the u-shaped legs? We didn't on the previous pool and it really didn't seem to settle into the ground.

Hello! We are currently at the final stages of having our 16 X 32 gunnite pool installed. This is a salt water pool and not sure of the exact specs of the filtration or pump. It is Haywood so once I have all the info I will update the post. Hopefully the pool will be complete in the next two weeks so I am looking for advice in filling, opening and making sure I don't do something stupid to ruin or damage the plaster or filter system.

We opened our pool this pass weekend and have filter problems. While we are awaiting parts I am staring at thus green cess pool. Is it OK to add chlorine without the pump running?

Drawing up deck / patio plans for my 18 ft AGP. We're replacing the a-frame ladder with a generic deck-mount resin one. Not big steps, just what I would call a basic normal ladder.

Where we want to put the ladder is immediately next to the return jet eyeball. Other than physically blocking the jet with the ladder leg, is there much to concern myself over here? Can it end up too close?

MS Paint rendition

Hello all,

I'm still a relatively new pool owner, just have about 2 months under my belt so I'm still getting my bearings in some areas. Pool chemicals are balanced and stable though, and that's what matters. Anyway, I got tired of manually vacuuming the pool, and having the cartridge get clogged up often because of it. It was getting to the point that as I was vacuuming I could see debris coming out of the returns. Just frustrating. Maybe I'm doing something wrong or my cartridge isn't functioning properly. Or maybe that's just par for the course with vacuuming directly into the pump.

Enter the Scuba S1. After a lot of research, and mostly decent reviews of the product here I decided to pull the trigger. It arrived today, and the box was honestly pretty beat up. I was surprised because it came FedEx, and I ordered it directly from Aiper. Interior packaging was solid though, and the unit was unharmed. After a quick charge to full I threw it into the pool on auto mode. We all watched it work on the walls for a minute, and it appeared to be doing a fine job. It came up and scrubbed the tile line for probably 5 seconds before heading back down. Then we wanted to see it work the floor so I put it on floor only mode, and it instantly started picking up debris. The pool wasn't terribly dirty, I just vacuumed it this past weekend, but after running for about 2 hours I fished it out because it was getting dark and I was curious. It was showing a yellow light, so it used most of the battery. I was honestly pretty surprised at how much it picked up, especially all the sand you can see in the bottom left of the basket. I'll be picking up the ultra fine cloth filter when it gets released for this model, but I am very pleased with the first run, and more pleased that I'll be able to swim without cleaning the pool when the weekend comes around.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to drop it in on the eco mode, which is supposed to clean for 45 minutes every 48 hours and we'll see how well it maintains the pool. This weekend I'll send it on a walls mission when I have time to watch how it progresses.

I am a new pool owner, as well as a new TF-Pro-Salt test kit owner. I've run through tests a couple of time, and don't have any questions yet on the topic of specific tests. I am trying to get a process down, using the items supplied in the kit, and one I can repeatedly use from beside the pool sitting at a table under an umbrella.

Right now I collect a water sample using a plastic bottle (one given away by Leslie's pool to take in for them to sample) and go to my table. I have a pad I sit down on the table in case I spill something, a couple paper towels, and the test kit. I start the tests, but then after a test I need to empty the test cylinder and rinse it. That means getting up and going about 30 feet to an outdoor spigot/hose, where I can rinse the cylinder in the yard, and presumably contaminate the cylinder slightly with spigot water for the next test. I shake it while returning to my spot, and if big drops dry with the paper towel. Then move on to the next test. It looks like some of you may get extra cylinders and magnetic stir bars to do all your tests in one sitting, and rinse them after all tests are complete. For those without the extra cylinders, what is your process? Is a couple more cylinders the only optimization?

I appreciate your ideas.

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I was thinking about upgrading a very aged pool pump.
Currently i have a Hayward Super 2 with a 1.65hp motor.

I was looking at the Hayward W3SP3206VSP TriStar Variable-Speed Pool Pump with the 2.7 HP motor.
Its pricey...

Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Something that can work ok with a ProLogic controller.
Think right now my pumps are all wired for 240v.

I really don't care about name brand. I really value references from here more, even if its some offshoot brand i never heard of.

Do I need to install a valve to prevent water flowing back to the pool whenever I open the pump basket, or is a valve not necessary?
The instructions for the pump say to never run the pump without water:

Here is a thumbnail picture of my pump inlet with a ruler:


Whenever I try to clean my pump basket, the pump drains back toward the pool skimmer, or at least straight down to a pool level (if assuming the horizontal pipe running to the pool is all below pool level). I can't prime the pump with a bucket of water, because the water just immediately drains out, so when priming it sucks air for some time before it gets any water. I did finally install a Hayward manual 3-way diverter valve between the pump and the filter, so at least I can block the filter from draining. The pump was installed at an unknown time by the previous house owner (we bought the house in Sept 2021), so the pump has been run this way for years. Hope it is not damaged.

A few facts (not sure if any of these are important besides the length of inlet pipe before the pump):
-pump inlet is higher than the pool surface by 12-14 inches.
-there is 2" pipe entering the pump, but you can see 1.5" copper pipe going underground to the pool skimmer.
-horizontal distance from pump to skimmer is 26 ft.

If it is best to install a valve at the pump inlet, then do I have enough straight inlet pipe to do this?
If okay to install a valve, are there any suggestions on the type?

Thanks!

Hello there. I have just noticed my Hayward H500FDN heater was not firing and went out to check and it has a bit of a slow, dripping leak at the front left bottom and mid-right bottom of the unit. I took off the front panel and can't see anything leaking in there but that's as far as I have gone.

Based on what I have read on this forum, it seems likely this could be the heat exchanger and that replacing the unit might be my only course of action. But, I wanted to check here to see:

1) Is there anything else I could/should do or check on my own?
2) Is it possible to get the heater to fire and run even with the leak, or will the leak always prevent it from firing (I guess what I'm asking is whether the leak and the ignition failure are related or separate issues)?

Thank you!

Has anyone seen leaking from a 1 yr old Polaris PB4SQ main body? It is literally coming out of the main body, not a seam or joint. I am not sure if there is a rebuild kit or washers. Any recommendations or is 1 year the average life of Polaris Booster products? Any suggestions on a better quality booster pump to replace if that is the only solution?

Hi all,
I have attempted to read the Hayward heater help guide on his site and the troubleshooting document provided by Hayward, but I'd like a second opinion before I order more parts.

Based on the serial number, the heater was manufactured in January 2015. It came with the pool when we bought the house in 2021. It fired up okay this season about a week ago. It heated the pool, no problem. Then we got an "Sb" error code and couldn't get the keypad to do anything except flash the preset temperature. I read that Sb was a display failure code, which seemed consistent with what we were experiencing. After reading the troubleshooting documents, I ordered this from INYOpools: Hayward FDXLBKP1930 Bezel & Keypad Assembly, Universal H-Series Low Nox Heater - INYOPools.com

Hayward FDXLBKP1930 Bezel & Keypad Assembly
I connected it, and it didn't work. (On a side note, I tried to reconnect the old one and it wouldn't light up at all now, so that's a bit worrisome.)

Looking again at the troubleshooting flowchart (screenshot below), now I think I also need to buy a display, which is a separate thing on the page 20 referred to in the flowchart (screenshot below). I think I was assuming keypad and display were synonyms before.

So it looks like I should add IDXL2DB1930 to the bezel/keypad I just ordered to make this work. But what is the difference between ordering the separate display to go with my keypad and ordering FDXLBCP1250, as mentioned in the note above the parts list? Is FDXLBCP1250 everything I need in one -- display board, bezel, keypad? Does display board = control panel? Because the actual keypad I received when I ordered FDXLBKP1930 looks like this except it is shaped to fit on my heater and doesn't have that flap: Hayward Bezel and Keypad Assy with Door for Select Universal H-Series Low NOx Heaters - FDXLBKP1932 - INYOPools.com

Is the display board IDXL2DB1930 my next move here? It is concerning that I can't get the old display to light up at all now? I don't think I broke anything when unplugging it. Is it a problem that my new keypad looks different (different button placement) than the old one? Does that matter for display board compatibility?

Also, when shopping online for IDXL2DB1930, there is such a variety in pricing and even what that sku looks like (keypad included?). For instance, what is the difference between

Hayward Display Board Bezel IDXL2DB1930 - PoolSupply4Less

and

Hayward Universal H-Series Pool Heater Display PCB - IDXL2DB1930 Replaced by HDXFDSPB0001 - INYOPools.com

Thanks for any wisdom you can share?

I opened the pool about a month ago and everything has been fine. Today, before my daughter and I went for a swim, I connected the vacuum to the skimmer to give the floor a quick clean. At the end of our swim, we noticed that the returns were spitting out air intermittently. I stopped the pump. Opened the pump. Cleaned the basket. Backwashed the filter. Hours later, every few minutes or so, there will be a sputter.

Any ideas?

Our newly constructed pool was filled a little over a week ago. I had a salt reading of 5.8 a couple nights ago. Brushed 3 more bags in and now I see on the SWG is says good, but I plan to test again tomorrow to try to get it to near 3600 if it is not there yet. Here is a list of our equipment:
Cartridge Filter: pent air clean and clear 420
pump: pentair superflo vst
SWG: Pentair ic40
pool heater: Aquacal sq145 super quiet

My question. Here is my test strip from tonight’s reading. Thoughts?

My initial thoughts were:
pH a little high?
Chlorine looks good to me.
Alkalidity looks A little high?
Stabilizer looks good to me

Good evening folks! Thank you for all for all of the help as always...

This year is a big year for us...we've had a vinyl liner pool that we put in ourselves the first few months of covid with the help of friends and family (cousin owns a construction company and i know a "pool guy"). But for 5 years now i've had a single speed pump, and a chlorine pool.

This year we're converting!

We are looking to open the pool and get the plumbing re-done at the same time as the opening...i dont want to open the pool using normal chlorine and chemicals...or am i overthinking it? Do i open the pool with the new SWG installed and just run normal water through it and balance it like normal at opening? then convert?

Or do i just open it and start dumping salt in (or it seems diamond water softener as a cheaper and equally effective alternative it seems).

Pool is 36,000 gallons. i cant' find a consistent recommendation on how much salt to start with but i thinks some math i did was around 26 40lb salt bags to start.

Thoughts on all of this would be great, thank you!

ps. installing a heater this year! Stoked about that...i think it'll really impact our use of the pool and how much we enjoy it here in CT. so a lot going on! Thanks!

Hi Everyone,
I live in the Atlanta area and just opened my IG pool 1 week ago because I was waiting on a new Hayward sand filter. (New filter and sand now in place) However, the pool was dark green swampy looking once the cover came off.

My local pool store (which I know you guys are not big on) recommended Soda Ash, followed by a 'Green to Clean' product, followed by 4lbs of shock every 12 hours. The 'Green to Clean' definitely changed the water from swampy dark green to a milky white, but for the last 6 days of running the pump 24 hrs and constantly adding clarifier and some shock, the pool is still cloudy. (I can see the bottom of the pool in the shallow end but still can't see the main drain on the deep end) It's strange because I thought the clarifier is supposed to bind all those particles for the filter to capture, but I don't think it's working because the pressure gauge continues to read normal. I was going to go back to their store today to figure out what to do next, but while reading this site with folks having similar issues, I'm now concerned about the negative affects of the clarifiers on my new sand filter.

For what it's worth, these are the last readings (4/26) from the pool store:
0.5 Free Chlorine * Chlorine is low because they told me not to hook up my SWG until the pool was clear
2.18 Total Chlorine
7.0 pH
95 TA
233 Calcium Hardness
34 CYA
2000 Salt

Not sure what to do next and would appreciate your recommendations.
BTW, because of this site I did order the test kit you all recommend, which was just delivered this morning and why I'm posting today.

Thanks much, Don

Opened the pool for the summer and first thing I tested was the CYA for SLAM.

As this test is my least favorite, I did it multiple times and it trended towards Barley being able to see it past the 30 mark in the tube. (The solution was just at the top of the tube)

I added 1 gallon of LC to get started, brushed the pool and called it a day. What is the recommendation for the CYA so I can get started for SLAM. (I know i have to be at a minimum of 30)

I moved into my house last August and purchased the TF Pro testing kit. When I moved in all my levels were good, so the only thing I had to add the rest of the season was liquid chlorine once weekly. I did purchase refills for my TF Pro and also added in the extra dropper bottles that come with the TF Pro Salt kit, but I didn't buy the TF Pro Salt kit since I already had the other one.

We just opened the pool and are getting a SWG and variable speed pump installed tomorrow. My question is, how do I go about treating the water to open it? The pool people said to get my Ph in the right spot and then shock. He also said the SWG won't actually produce chlorine for a while until the water temperature gets above 50 degrees. I'm in southern Pennsylvania, so April and May don't get too warm. Do I need to SLAM with shock from the store? Just a boatload of liquid chlorine? Once I finish the SLAM will I need to continue with liquid chlorine until the water warms up? I've never opened a pool before, and I don't know if doing this conversion at the beginning of the season makes a difference or not. I'm going to scoop, skim, and brush today just to clean up the visible debris before anything is running.

Any step by step help to get my pool back up and running crystal clear would be awesome. I have read these forums last year and they did help a lot. I appreciate any help that is given.

Inground Pool Dimensions: 16ft x 32ft
Vinyl liner
20k gallons
Pentair IC-40 SWG
Pentair SuperFlo Variable speed pump

Hi All!

I have inherited a Pentair Wisperflo WFE-2, 1/2 HP pump (Link) for the fountain (the fountain is about 660-700 Gal). There's no filter, just a pump, so keeping the water clear is a bit of a pain... I was thinking of plumbing in a sand filter after the pump, but I don't want to add a huge one, given the size of the fountain. Considering something like a 14" (which is already an overkill, but can't find anything smaller...) sand by Raypak (Link), but it has 29 PSI max working pressure, and according to Pentair support, the pump's working pressure is 40 PSI (well, they weren't too specific... they said "40-60 PSI", but after repeated inquiries, said that the "normal working pressure is 40 PSI").

Please advise.

Thank you!