suzook said:

Well I can get seagull pro new from aiper for $487 all in shipped. I am thinking its a no brainer, although my wife is flipping. We still need to pay for the sod, the fence, the reel and solar cover....LOL. I probably should wait. I have a corded robot that works fine.

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I do feel that the S1/N1 might be improved from water intrusion. In my case I had 2 Seagulls where the charge post corrosion caused failure. I just today received the N1 and the cap on the charge entry seals better than my seagulls ever did. The model is more mature than my seagulls. And the S1 and N1 seem to have same features, so I assume they were designed for different channels.

Sparkling Water Enjoyer said:

Hmmm. Some bad news, filter was almost clogged even though I just cleaned it out before refilling. Water is also changing color or the plaster is.

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That's algae. Your old, tiny, filter isn't helping and ascorbic acid kills chlorine levels.

After thinking about everything, I went ahead and actually went with the CircuPool instead, while I wait for that to arrive I got a check valve and jandy valve and quickly realized that adding the heater bypass may be a lot more complicated than I thought, if possible at all. Should have measured better first, heh.

With the check valve installed straight out, I don't think I have enough room with that and an elbow and going up to get the ring for my filter off. My only option then is put an elbow up first, then the check valve, then a tee, two elbows then back down in front of the jandy valve and back out to the pool. Like this, if you'll excuse my quick and dirty diagram from the side view (green is check valve, orange is jandy, grey salt cell, purple flow switch, blue existing valve back to pool/spa) - not to scale, of course. It feels like that will be a very tight squeeze to get all that in that way. I'd probably have to put the valve handle facing away towards the check valve to get it all to fit.



It looks like I might just barely have 12" -14" between the heater and the salt cell with the flow just past the cell - depending on how big they are, i'll measure when it comes in tomorrow. If that's the case, should I just abandon the idea of the heater bypass and going up and over?

Motor Hums, But Does NOT Start – Check For:

1. Centrifugal switch stuck in OPEN position.
2. Binding of motor shaft.

I cut off the insulation. Looks like it's just one steel nipple, why would anyone do this, all other parts brass or PVC. Good thing there's a union.

Maybe a bad start or main winding or maybe the centrifugal switch is open.

Do you have a multimeter?

Are you comfortable working on electrical equipment?

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What is written on the far left and far right pipes coming out of the ground?

Can you get a better picture of this loop? Can't see what is back there...

ScoopDogy said:

Hi,
According to my pocketbook, I've spent a fortune on this solar pool heater so I'm wanting to buy a used pump for my Pentair Solar Touch system. Besides IntelliFlo and IntelliPro, who is using a different pump out there successfully and which pump are you using?

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Are you going to use a single VSP for both filtration and solar? Will you be using a solar booster pump? For a single-pump system with a VSP, the Solar Touch will only directly control the two Pentair pumps you have mentioned, using their internal timers for the rest of the programming. For a solar booster it will control a single-speed pump or a VSP that can be controlled by relay inputs. Hayward and Waterway VSPs have relay-control built in, others, like the Circupool/Black&Decker/Calimar, require an adapter.

Here is a picture

Yup! Hopefully this helps

Split-phase motors are a type of single-phase induction motor that use two stator windings, a main winding and a start winding, to create a rotating magnetic field for starting, without relying on a capacitor.

The stator (the stationary part of the motor) has two windings: a main winding and a start winding.

Unlike capacitor-start motors, split-phase motors don't use a capacitor to create the phase difference needed for starting.

A centrifugal switch is often used to disconnect the start winding once the motor reaches a certain speed (typically around 75% of full speed).

@Sam721 - Thank you for bringing this thread to my attention, I'm all in for trying some different fixes. We don't open for another month here and it will probably be at least until mid may before the temps are warm enough to run it. What do you think about JB weld or that steel epoxy putty? It may make future repairs a little harder but it may just erode away like the center pin does anyways, kind of like a sacrificial anode...

Also, can you share where you got that cool volt and amp display, I need to have one now

Thanks again

4 .T Y P E : The electrical design of the motor is shown by its type.

A.O. Smith uses “CX” to identify its switchless design.

Other codes include “CS” for c a p a c i t o r- s t a rt, “S P” for split-phase and “CP” for capacitor start / capacitor run.

I purchased one about 6 months ago and it's working fine.

mpapworth said:

I had to replace my Power Flo towards the end of last season. The broken one acts like it needs a starter capacitor.
1) Does it even have a starter cap?
2) Where can I get one? Hayward doesn't seem interested in helping me.
Going through the motor manufacturer was a dead end.
Thanks,
Joe Papworth

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Open the wiring compartment. If it has a capacitor it would be there. If it doesn't, you may need a new motor.

That's the slam at work.

Along with the foam, mine smelled like low tide and in all my years on the docks and in the creeks, it never dawned on me that the salty cesspool smell was the algae drying out. I just thought it was the mud and muck exposed at the shores but I had neither exposed at the pool.

The cal-hypo causes cloudiness for a while when used in large batches. It's ok as long as your CH can handle it.